- 6
- 34 913
gfp motorrad
Приєднався 22 кві 2019
Wheel Building BMW r75/5 Airhead
Re-lacing the spoked wheel on a 1972 BMW r75/5
.. of note, I had a light (very very light) smear of grease on the threads of these spokes which I forgot to put in the video. Cheers!
.. of note, I had a light (very very light) smear of grease on the threads of these spokes which I forgot to put in the video. Cheers!
Переглядів: 2 491
Відео
BMW Airhead r65 First Start
Переглядів 3,3 тис.4 роки тому
First start of this bike after rebuild- full head rebuild. Starting and break in procedure as per bmwmotorcycletech.info www.classicairheads.com
BMW r65 Airhead Custom Complete
Переглядів 2,1 тис.4 роки тому
First look at the complete r65LS custom build
Airhead Brake Bleeding BMW r65
Переглядів 5 тис.4 роки тому
Step by step bleeding the hydraulic brake system on 1984 BMW r65LS (twin disc) www.classicairheads.com
BMW Airhead Valve Clearance Adjustment
Переглядів 21 тис.4 роки тому
Step by step walk through adjusting the valve clearances on an airhead. This is a 1984 R65LS but the technique applies to most of the BMW boxer twins www.classicairheads.com
4 and 6
Many thanks ... you answered my question about rocker arm tolerance between the posts 🙂
Huge respect for you. Envy of your patience and attention to detail.
Great video, thanks! regarding valve clearance it has been recommended by BMW (in 1984) to increase the valve gap slightly. You'll want 0,1mm on the intake and 0,2mm on the exhaust. You'll get slightly noisier valves but it has other benefits.
very concise.
Well explained, clearly shown instruction on the airhead valve adjustment. The best I’ve seen on UA-cam. We’ll done, sir!
Super helpful, thanks!
If you are going to film an educational tutorial how to … do clean up the background .
Hi John, I've looked on your channel but it seems you haven't made any videos. Perhaps you can apply your advice to your own work.
Lovely job. Very tasteful. Well done!
How often do you perform this adjustment ?
Similar process for a tubeless BMW wheel?
Hi. Can you please provide a link for the lights that you used? Thanks
Well explained, sir. I have one question: many people torque the stud nuts to 39Nm or even 40Nm (incremental, of course). My manual says, 35Nm. Why this difference? Also, intake valve gap is 0.15mm for the first 1000km. Only after 100km should be 0,10mm. Is this only for the situations with new cylinders? I have only resealed my cylinders and don t know how to choose these values
At 2:40 the right cylinder is at compression stroke tdc as the manual said. I am so confused now
no it s not. He explaines it very good, just pay attention. In order to compress the fuel/air mix, both valves need to be closed.
Great video explained very thoroughly nice one 👍
Nice video and usefull infos, especialy the offset distance. I am rebuilding two wheels from a BMW R60/5 and the guy who owns them has bringed them to me disassembled with the spokes cutted.
Good luck Luca- if you go slowly it's pretty easy. There is more information at my blog www.classicairheads.com
Thanks, nice and clear.
Where did you get brake handle/break master cylinder and break calipers?!
Hi there Jeremy. The brake equipment is stock but rebuilt. You can check out the details on my blog at www.classicairheads.com
Thank you for sharing very interesting
Thanks for the feedback John. Glad it has been useful to someone
Great vid! at 11:27 you say tdc on the exhaust stroke? isnt it on the intake stroke?
Whenever one piston is at tdc on the compression stroke the other is at tdc on the exhaust stroke. The one you want to adjust is the compression one because both valves will be closed. Then you turn the engine over so the other one is at tdc compression and adjust those clearances.
gfp motorrad ahh cool, isnt it the same on the intake stroke ? :)
@@frederikvolkers8319 I am reading the manual which is opposite to this guy. Manual saying "If in doubt turn the engine over until the inlet valve on either cylinder has opened and closed again turn the engine slowly until the tdc mark appears.
@@jesushairstyle this is exactly what he said. After you see the valves moving, you rotate the wheel until you see the OT mark.
I bought one a year ago. I have limited space to work on the engine and am even more limited on my knowledge of how to work on it. I’d like to remove the engine from the frame and do the work on a bench but I would still like the ability to test start it. The engine has zero lines connected to it now. No fuel lines or electric. This is a stupid question but what are the minimum things I would need connected to try and start it out of the frame? Fuel line- spark plug lines- battery lines. Things like that. Any help would be appreciated
Hi Zach! I do all my work in a smallish garage. Bikes are good for small spaces. Regarding working on the bench that’s totally feasible- I do most my engine work on the bench or floor. Starting the engine out of the bike however I wouldn’t recommend. It wouldn’t be impossible but would be hard and dangerous and unnecessary. Just rebuild and put back in frame. Good luck!
Great stuff....the last bike I built I used motogadget m unit to rewire. Fantastic kit
Sound great.....real credit to your efforts. Great write ups too...really helping me along.