Відео

"Honey Bees are not capable of surviving varroa infestations on their own"? That's demonstrably incorrect...

Why can't I mix up the sugar syrup/OA mixture into a spray bottle and spray it directly on my bees? How is dribbling it between the frames better? (Other than no need to pull out each frame. But what if I spray OA during a hive inspection while pulling out frames anyway to look for the queen so I can cage her for seven days to break the mite cycle?)

What does "crisper" mean regarding genetically modification of the bees? Please forgive my ignorant question

Anyone tell me which method is better for extracting Varroa Destructor from bees. I don't want to kill bees. Is the sugar method is good or accurate?? Please give me answer if you tried it.

hiv, aids virus was combated by not using a single medication but by using a "cocktail" which made it impossible for the virus to out-evolve or adapt to any particular single treatment. If we're going to use chemicals, we need to adopt the cocktail strategy immediately

Интересная мысль. Попробуем.

We can talk and talk but none grows this and distribute bee keepers so only words and finished there.

I want to make some honey and lots of it. That is why I treat for varroa

❤❤😂 при ии.😅😊😊

The purple hive is an Australian invention that detects when a mite enters the hive. Maybe a further invention could be to kill the might with the same type of detection which I think is a sort of beam. Have tried to put this idea forward but no one seems to be interested 🥴

Thanks for this information.

Sammy sending you an email on a meeting (lunch) I'm having with Corey Stevens (hopefully others) at the Expo this Jan. Cory and others (like Randy Oliver) are working hard at building traits to handle Varroa Destructor. Having done work on geno/pheno and trait maintenance in fish (Beta splendens) the problem with sticking these, even in a fairly closed environment is difficult and IMO impossible. I'll get into more details in the email...

Great presentation on Tropilaelaps! So they are a danger but can be well controlled by an application of Formica acid. My question is how do the mites spread from hive to hive? Is it similar to varroa? A second question is how long have they been endemic in various countries that have large populations of honey bees? Thanks

Are Tropilaelaps mites affected by oxalic acid vaporization or long term OA slow release pads?

Honey bees are not native pollinators in North America, correct? If that is true should we not be looking to support and restore those pollinators?

I know a thymol based treatment doesn't treat under the cappings but if the hive has a slow release method in it and the mites are exposed when they leave the capped cells it seems that it may be worth considering in your testing since it is currently an effective varroa mite treatment even if it's to rule it out as an option.

I hope you aren't re-using those transparencies between hives. That could spread an infestation from one hive to another.

Does feeding mushroom solution help prevent colony collapse in both wild and domestic bees?

Thank you for all of the info!

great...... so this is what is coming up next.......wonderful

As much as I wanted to watch this I could not get past the um's at the end of every sentence AND in the middle of them.

I am glad to hear that there is so much effort so early on this. Thank you for your work.

Come to Russia, we have this mite all over the South

Can I treat with oxalic acid more than once a month? For example, I treat varro two or three times a month.

YOU HAVE to tell peopple the ideal temperature for process

I’ll do the powder suger method.. I’m not killing my bees with alcohol! 😢

Oxaclic acid burner and queen cage for brood break is my favorite way to diffuse a mite bomb. Or quarantine a new colony.

Sorry for the intrusion 3m mask What is the filter number, please, used in the mask

Apiguard ingredients: 25% thymol 75% Other ingredients

Australia has lost control of its varroa infestation. Your attempted solutions have all been tried before without success elsewhere in the world. It can only and easily be solved by a hive redesign. The varroa problem lays in the thin walled hive designs that are universally deployed and which support the life cycle of varroa in 2 ways. 1. Low humidity. It is well known that varroa do not thrive in a humid environment. The precise mechanism is unknown, but it is an observed result. With a bee entry at the bottom of the brood chamber the natural (heavier) humidity runs out the entrance. Putting the entrance at the top of the brood will form a bucket of humidity. 2. Low insulation. A thin walled hive has very little insulation value and the temperature of the brood varies over the time of day and season. Above 37deg.c. and below 29deg.c. the pupa die. At 35deg.c. the pupa takes 10-11 days to hatch with 96-98 surviving. At 31 deg.c. the pupa takes 14-15 days to hatch with 89-100% surviving. Thin walled hives do not maintain a constant and high temperature internally that the bee pupa need to hatch quickly, allowing time for more varroa mites to hatch from each cell in which they are laid. A male first, and then a female, every thirty hours after that. I suggest that you utilize the excellent aerated concrete blocks that have for sale in Australia to make a ZEST DIY horizontal hive and reduce the varroa replacement rate to below stable. There is a free E-book on the ZEST hive webpage which shows how to do your own DIY version. Try it. You have nothing to lose, except your varroa.

Ok

I am from east of nepal. due to the vorroa mites i did not success to bee farming . please help me.i brought 12colony but all are infected by mites.

There are just so many assumptions in this, but probably not the correct assumptions. For instance, high bee density areas tend to also be areas where more bees are brought in from commercial apiaries sold as Packages, or Nuc's right off the Almond Fields--that are importing mites every year--where as a low bee area is probably working with more bees that spent the winter in that spot, have adapted better to the weather of that area, are stronger stock, and aren't bringing a new supply of bees and mites in each year! Weak hives also tend to be from a lot of human error, so importing Packages or Nuc's in the early spring to get the first sales of the year, often times leads to a weak colony in the Fall. Package bees tend to be older when they are delivered, and are generally put in to spaces that are too large for the number of bees that are put in. When those bees start to raise brood, many die off in trying to maintain 94 degrees on nights that get extremely cold, and the colony will never build up to the size they need to be for winter survival, but generally as they are getting a foot hold...people add more space and that pretty much seals the deal that they aren't going to make it. But you don't make that sort of assumption...only that it's because people didn't have a mite protocol that you might approve of could be the only thing to blame! Then there's just the question of your bees robbed my bees, but my bees are to blame??? Natural selection might be good to look at here, because once again Packages and bees from the Almonds are probably going to have a lot of Italian bee genetics, and Italian's are more prone to robbing other hives! Bees that adapt to not robbing, like many of the feral stock seems to be doing, don't have that problem, but bees raise in commercial settings that are fed at every low point in the nectar flow...have never adapted to real world scenarios. Science really needs to spend more time with bees to see past the charts, in to what's really going on, or what else it might be--instead of just blaming what they need to to get more funding for studies that really haven't changed the varroa issue for the past 30 years.

can I treat in the Fall temps around 60 to 70 degrees during the day?

Is one treatment enough for spring and one for fall or are more needed?

Oxalic Acid.

doesn't even shake bees off strip before chucking in bag.

I put out 4 swarm traps at 4 different locations in late April this year. It is now the 9th of July. I plan on pulling these bait boxes before hornets build nests in them. I do not know where all the bee colonies in my area are these days. I only see a small fraction of the number of bees on my raspberrys, flowering crabapple and other apple trees in my yard. I had a lot of dandelions and there were vast acres of dandelions around my travels. Hardly any bees to be seen.

If you change the hive environment by changing its design features you can be varroa treatment free. You just need to make an environment that reduces the varroa replacement value over each generation. This is not so hard. Forget chemicals. Honey bees in Cuba and South America have apparently learned to deal with it. The reason is likely to be that the climate is hot and humid. The question is how far north will it go in Australia. The propensity for varroa to die away in a humid hive was found out by accident when a laboratory hive was accidentally left at a higher humidity than others and that one lost its varroa. The precise mechanism of varroa destruction by humidity remains a mystery. A standard bee hive entrance at the floor level with ventilation at the top causes a cooling stack (or flue) effect internally. This cools the hive in winter and takes away its humidity all year. The temperature difference in winter between inside and out is greater as is the ventilation, when it is not needed, but less so in the summer when it is. Trickle top cross bee entry and ventilation in a beehive causes it to be more humid and also appears to be controllable by the bees, because when the outside ambient temperature falls at night the humidity rises by up to 20% points in a top entry hive. The propensity for varroa to die away in a warm hive is due to the time that a bee pupa takes to hatch which varies between 10 days (35C.) and 15 days (31C.) which depends on when and where it is in the brood nest. A highly insulated external hive envelope serves to keep the brood temperature up throughout the hive and over time, allowing the bees to hatch quicker and therefore for the varroa to not have enough time to mature in the cells. Winter in the UK is varroa breeding heaven, but insulation confounds them and reduces the winter stores consumption to about half, as a bonus. Unfortunately in Australia and USA you have a timber framed housing system generally and do not have an aerated concrete block manufacturing process as we do in the UK. The ZEST hive is made from aerated concrete blocks which have 39 times more Resistance (R) to the passage of heat than a thin walled wood hive has and consequently is functionally free of varroa. If you want to know more about varroa free hive design go to the ZEST web page, and read the free E-Book going to pages 21 to 24 and 50 where the mechanism for varroa free will be revealed. There is a U-tube that you may also want to view titled “Build your own bee hive-heathy bees-zest hive”.

Sucks as an Australian BK watching this right now...

it says powdered sugar is a method but you didn't explain it.

I have a bottle of 190 proof vodka, will that work? I don't drink but a neighbor gave it to me.

good advice. the strips allocated on shop cloth .is this at the 42 percent as the macs pads also do you need 2 pads or single.

why can the bees inhale this oxalic acid and we cant?

Good

What's the point of keeping colonies that can't fend for themselves. Selection is the best method to get real bees.

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Nice video very informative

Solom o‘zbekiston respublikasi ua-cam.com/video/d0a9Kmo4zUU/v-deo.html

I want to use the drizzle method but I have a big hive: 3 suppers. Does that mean I must do it over all the suppers or just one is enough?