Відео

GIMP always was free as far as I know.

Vielen Dank. Grüße aus Irland. (Google did that if it's incorrect!)

Thanks George. It's easy enough, I've done three now.

Well now you've no excuse Tich!

I did say this in an earlier edit, but I also said I was unsure if they allowed a full 360... I cut it as it was less than informative, so thanks for the confirmation!

Thankyou, and that's a good brightness tip that I will utilise. I realised that mine was dark but being the third time I'd put this tutorial together I just ran with it. My first two attempts were way too long.

I came to realise I'd set the sky to Bortle 2.

My pleasure. Thanks for the watch.

...and thank you for saying (& staying).

Thankyou very much and good luck with yours.

Thanks. This is what every content creator wants to hear!

Of course they're fabulous. They're self taken images of things millions of light years away! Even if a blurry first attempt they're amazing.

Neither does mine but it only needs to keep the tube slightly above ambient. Your hand is warm enough to prevent dew on the scope so it may not feel warm enough to your hand. Only worry if it doesn't resist dew. Then up the wattage (lower the resistance), which you may want to do anyway for the winter.

It just occured to me that you may be talking about the purchased one? If so, see previous answer. Again, no need to worry. You can't increase the wattage on this though.

@@Cheapass-tro yeah sorry. I did mean the one you bought. Not had a dew problem though so it must be warm enough? :)

@@jesuschrist2284 Should be warm enough for the winter. Mine is, but still - it ain't very warm. Doesn't need to be.

Hey JC I just remembered something. Mine needs a 5v 2a power source. Many 5v USB ports only offer 1 amp. If the dewstrap's switch lights up though, it's working.

Hi. The brackets are sold by many sellers. Just search Nema 17 brackets. The exact ones I bought are no longer available but they're all the same dimensions. These are the motors I bought : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252383525398

Thanks. I do have a multimeter.

Thankyou on both counts.

Thanks!

Thanks for saying that Paul and ha ha, yeah those sleepless nights with 14 browser tabs open!!! Good luck.

No need to apologise for asking a beginner's question. I had lots of these starting out... Now you've just added another, as I actually don't know what this piece is called and I can't seem to find the answer. I just call it a DSLR mounting screw thingymajig. 🤷‍♂ If you're looking to source one of these, I'd suggest you don't bother as it's pretty useless (not as adjustable as it seems). I'd instead get a ballhead mount or similar. It has a ¼" bolt (a standard camera fitting).

Thankyou for watching, noticing and saying!

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09N95JX32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The wire on mine DID break at the switch and I re-soldered it. A spot of hot glue may work as a preventative measure?

This one doesn't have a plug fixed to the material, so it can pull loose easily. Oh well. Thanks. I found 20 feet of #22 nichrom wire insulated with heat shrink draws 6 watts at 12 Volts. I wrap mine around the typical green lasers for aiming. Their output diminishes drastically below 50 degrees F.

Thanks Derry.

That's good to know, thanks. Can you say what it's called please? I looked up "heating wire" and only Nichrome showed up.

@@Cheapass-tro Seems UA-cam ate my original comment. Nichrome is indeed what you want, but insulated. Comes in a wide variety of resistance ratings. I search "heating wire" and find some results, although not as many as I used to. I'm sending you an email with some listings, since UA-cam auto-deletes comments with URLs in them.

Interesting. I'm looking at restoring my old Newt' at some point and was planning a vinyl wrap for it. So you're saying I should use a white wrap and the dew shield should be white outside?

The heat applied should be only enough to keep the hardware above the dewpoint. If done properly it shouldn't be enough energy to cause air currents. White paint only puts off the inevitable cooling. Can't hurt though. Maybe even wrap some foam around the tube while you're at it.

Thanks!

All the best!

I've noticed that they don't even use acid core in plumbers solder anymore. You would need to have very old solder for that.

I have solder from the 1960's.

I think my issue with this is that far too often you see warnings and cautions about edge case issues when common sense should apply. In this case I don't think it would really matter anyway. It's just a string of resistors. It won't last for years and years anyway. One of the resistors will break long before the acid manages to etch through the wire.

That's what I was aiming for. None of my videos are the viral kind, just reference. Thanks!

Thanks! I'll adopt that until someone over here says otherwise.

It's rosin. Here's what Wikipedia says: Rosin (/ˈrɒzɪn/), also called colophony or Greek pitch (Latin: pix graeca), is a solid form of resin obtained from pines and some other plants, mostly conifers, produced by heating fresh liquid resin to vaporize the volatile liquid terpene components. It is semi-transparent and varies in color from yellow to black. At room temperature rosin is brittle, but it melts at stove-top temperature. It chiefly consists of various resin acids, especially abietic acid.[1] The term colophony comes from colophonia resina, Latin for "resin from Colophon" (Ancient Greek: Κολοφωνία ῥητίνη, romanized: Kolophōnía rhētínē),[2][3] an ancient Ionic city.[4] It is an FDA approved food additive.[5]

If you have the bits you can knock one up in 15. Otherwise there's this : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145886922398

Thanks mate I might message him to see how big it is as I bought one when at Kelling & that was to big cheers

Excellent!

Thanks and good for you! I wouldn't swap my grey skies for your temperatures.

Thank you matey, that's great to hear.

Thanks very much. I couldn't beat Rich on Siril, so all I hoped was to make it easy for all to follow.

Thanks, that's nice to hear.

Thanks Tony, I hope so.