Відео

Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@LaurenceMollerup 😂

Sometimes the absent minded guy comes out LOL

@@jonahguitarguy thanks Dane. BTW, did you see the video I posted about the crack in the Taylor? ua-cam.com/video/gycdstX-ALU/v-deo.htmlsi=9mDcn3Wv2BXsmaSG

@@OscarEgan-vj9qv if it’s just a slight tear, put some contact cement on it, smooth it down and it should be okay.

I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching. 😊

@@onesoulthrust Let me tell you about sample rates and bit depth. 😂😂😂😂

@@JagStar 😆😆😆

I remember, nice to hear from you! I didn't get the comparison video done. My electronics shop flooded and had to be gutted and re-built. Just as the work was finishing on that, we had a number of challenges that continued through to the end of '24. As a result, I ended up losing my focus and only filmed whatever I was feeling like working on over those couple of years. I've gotten my focus back and have a few projects on the go, including a plan to da a rebuild on a trashed '60's Bassman. I'm not sure when I'll get time but, I would like to do a comparison video at some point. I have some changes I want to make to the TriWatt before I do any sort of comparison. I'm still not happy with the overdrive on that amp and want to sort it out once-and-for-all. I probably won't get back to that until next fall. If I do, I'll probably do the comparison video after that.

Ah, I am so sorry that hear that! Must have been a disaster that the room flooded. Hopefully you have been able to sort of recover from it now. I will subscribe to the channel, really curious to your comparison at one point. I personally never use that overdrive channel. It's great addition for those that want to get some runch from a Hiwatt, but I use my pedals for that. It is very susceptive to noise though, especially with the effects loop which I believe you have also added. It's still my main amp, yet sometimes I wonder how it stacks upversus the real deal. I know it has an identical preamp layout to the vintage ones so I actually think it's 95% spot on but still curious to hear from somebody that actually tried this.

Thanks. Yes, it was the start of a run of hard stuff. I do the same with my TriWatt, but I really want to get the boost sounding better. I had one of the late ‘70’s HiWatts, with the “Canadian” mod, when I was first touring in the early ‘80’s. A lot of people didn’t like that mod but, it’s a sound I’ve always missed. I want to see what it would take to make the TriWatt sound like that when the boost is on. As a pedal platform, the TriWatt sounds really good and very similar to the DR104. There’s a bit off difference in the mids due to the different output tubes, but they are similar. I do have the loop.

@@jonahguitarguy I’m currently making the project even more complex! 😂 Happy New Year!

@ thanks, Happy New Year!

Hi Jim, You’re correct-taking the heater supply from pin 2 of the output tube to pin 9 of the preamp tubes is done for consistency. • In a push-pull amplifier, connect the output tube heater pins in phase (e.g., pin 2 to pin 2 and pin 7 to pin 7). • For 12A?7-style dual triode preamp tubes, the phase of the heater wires does not matter. I hadn’t really considered it before, but in an amplifier with parallel output tubes (as in your “alternative heater wiring” example), wiring each pair of tubes out of phase with each other could effectively cancel hum. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@jonahguitarguy I thought of that too. Sorry for the clickbait! 😂 Merry Christmas to you and your family as well Dane!

@@jodybergum9970 Mostly because OCD me 😂. I did design it horizontal and then flip just didn’t show that. I thought I implied it enough. 😉 Merry Christmas Jodo! Please extend our greetings to your Dad and Keith and Kim’s families.

@JagStar Why print vertical rather than horizontal. We have a Maker3 and still learning stuff! Merry Christmas back to you & family!

The faceplate is 12” wide and that’s the maximum width the Cricut can go. I might make the final faceplate slightly larger, 12.25” x 2.25”, and it will be an easy change to make if I run it vertical. The reason for a slightly larger faceplate will be more obvious in the next video.

@@onesoulthrust this preamp project has really expanded my approach. I’ve got a really cool idea for powering the whole thing that is different from anything I’ve ever done. Stay tuned! 😎

You shouldn’t have any issues with the underboard wires as long as you avoid overheating the turrets while soldering from the top. One common mistake beginners make is setting the soldering iron temperature too low. This forces them to hold the iron on the turret longer than necessary, which heats the entire turret and increases the risk of the underboard wire falling out. Even so, this is less likely when using solid core wire, as it tends to stay mechanically secure. The key to successful soldering is setting your iron hot enough to make a quick, clean connection without overheating the components. If the iron is too hot, you risk damaging components or causing the solder to “boil”, creating bubbles in the joint that can weaken it. I typically set my soldering iron between 340-370°C (650-700°F). When soldering turrets or eyelets, I lean towards 370°C since these connections are larger and dissipate more heat compared to standard solder pads on a PCB. It’s all about finding the right balance. Thanks for the kind words!

@@JagStar Thank you so much for all the tips. Much appreciated.

My pleasure. Glad to help!

@@LaurenceMollerup Thanks brother! I really like the way that worked out too.

@@jonahguitarguy I wondered about that too. I think because heat rises, it will cycle the warm air up near the ceiling back down. But I’m not really sure. I’ll be playing around with it to see what works best. I am left handed but I was made to write with my right hand by my grade one teacher who believed that left handed was a sign of evil. I actually had a lot of residual psychological issues due to that teacher. She had a hate on for me the whole year and my mom didn’t figure it out until the damage was done. I do some things left handed and some right and can switch between the two pretty easily. The fence is on the left because it left more room near the shop door to pile junk on the saw though. 😂

@@JagStar my dad had his hand swatted with a ruler by a nun because it was evil to write left handed. He never recovered.

@ I feel sorry for him. The scars go deep after that sort of abuse. 😔 My tear ducts are “backwards” and I was prone to nosebleeds when I was that young. When I would have a nosebleed, the blood would also come out of my tear ducts. It made me look like I was crying blood. That teacher was sure I came from the devil after she saw that.

@@JagStar That's wild, yeah you spooked her good!

@@onesoulthrust Smartass 😂

@@JagStar We are not wrong. :D

@@onesoulthrust 😂

@@onesoulthrust indeed! 😊

Thanks. I threw that rack together about ten years ago and it just keeps getting put back up. It's bulky but very solid.

I remember a particular time when we were doing everything right but the club was wired wrong. I forgot to check if the grounds "agreed" and, of course, I was the one who got the zap. Didn't forget after that!

@@JagStar !! Pain is a force multiplier.

Thanks Dane, that was a major mess. I’m really happy with how the wall is turning out.

@@onesoulthrust 😂

18 gauge for main ground, power switch, standby switch and B+ to the OT and rectifier. 18 gauge for the heater supply from the pilot light to the output tubes, usually but not always. 20 or 22 everywhere else. Usually 22. Solid vs stranded is more or less a preference. Solid is nice because it stays where you put it, but it breaks easily if you are moving it around a lot. Stranded doesn't like to stay bent to the shape you want but is more forgiving when being moved around. I usually suggest stranded for new builders because it's more forgiving. I usually use solid if I don't think I'll be modding the amp. If it's going to get worked on a lot, like a tester or experiment, I'll use stranded. I use stranded in pedals because they take more abuse and the wires tend to get moved around a lot. Thanks for watching.

This is for foil caps. It doesn’t apply to other types of caps. Thanks for watching.

Bam bam, bam bam bam! 😂

@@JagStar 🤣

@@jonahguitarguy me too! 😂

🤣

@@waynegram8907 that was deliberate for two reasons. One reason is that it deserves its own video and I’m planning to do one later in the winter. But the main reason is that I don’t think chasing that notch is the best way to bias a guitar amp for the best tone. When you bias strictly on what the oscilloscope says, the amp might still not have the tone you are looking for. I’m pretty convinced that this is why there aren’t a lot of videos out there showing guitar amps being biased using the crossover method. Another reason why I didn’t cover it here is, a lot of tube guitar amp hobbyists don’t have an oscilloscope. You don’t need one to get the amp into the sweet spot. As long as the tubes aren’t going to melt down, it really comes down to how it sounds. Thanks for the comment. I’ll definitely be doing a video about crossover distortion when I can get the time. Cheers 😊

@@JagStar Yes I'm curious about your theory about biasing using the crossover method in a video lesson. The HUM Balance control on fenders amplifiers adjusting it until the 60hz hum cancels out disappears which is balancing the output tubes grid leakage resistance? Since Marshalls didn't have a HUM Balance control EVH Eddie Van Halen would use his Variable Power Transformer Variac and adjust the line voltage until the output tubes would be Balance NO HUM. This is another way EVH said how he would do his HUM Balancing, its something to think about doing in another video lesson about the type of HUM Balancing. The HUM Balancing also using the Variac cuts down and reduces the single coil pickups to have less 60hz hum is the sweet spot. This is what I read what EVH would do in the studio and live gigs.

@@JagStar A lot of people question why they used the Death Capacitor on the negative side wire without the fuse instead of the positive side wire with the fuse so if the Death capacitor shorted out it would blow the fuse but since the Death cap was connected on the negative sided AC wire the AC line fuse didn't blow when the Death cap shorted. It seems that the 50's and 60's engineers were using the Death Cap as a poor mans version of a Varistor VDR but I think they didn't have Varistors back in the 50's and 60's so that is why Fender used a Death Cap instead. When the death cap shorted out it was suppose to blow the AC line fuss but it didn't instead it caused HOT Chassis. This is someone for a video lesson subject to go over.

An on-going battle. I probably just need to learn to live with clutter 😁

@@JagStar it works for me

@@jonahguitarguy 😂

Haha I like to ride in the middle, everything organized above the waist and out of shot.

@@McDGuitars 😂

Thanks Dane. It’s good not to be laughed at 😂

Thanks 😊

Yes, I can see how the shop will be more functional. I don’t know how I’ve spent my whole life here, I can’t stand the cold. It’s usually not too bad until around the beginning of January. But it can be a real bear until mid-February. It was really tough touring through that when I was younger. I miss a lot about being on the road, but not the Northern Prairies in January.

@@onesoulthrust 😂

@@UnknownStone-b7w I don’t consider myself an expert, but it’s not really clear. Some say they only made it for a month, others say that’s just the circuit designation and that there was a period in early ‘65 where you might get an AA165, AB165 or even an AA864. Over the years I’ve owned or refurbished 20-30 Bassmans (Bassmen 😂) from that era. I’ve had a couple AA165s that were from mid spring based on the pot codes. I also had a “transitional” Bassman that had an AA864 tube chart but was a mix of AA165 and AB165 so, wasn’t exactly one or the other. It can get confusing, so I usually just do an educated guess based on the physical circuit in front of me. This one is definitely a mix. It has a true adjustable bias but the AB165 phase inverter. If it were full AB165 it would have a bias balance. Thanks for watching.

Here's a video from @PsionicAudio which shows what we were talking about, ua-cam.com/video/ERYQ615QlTQ/v-deo.html This is an AA864 but the date code on the tube chart shows it was built in March 1965 (OC, O=1965 and C=March). You can see the tube chart at 7:55 in the video.

@@BradsGuitarGarage thanks Brad. I just checked out your channel and subscribed. I’m looking forward to watching more!

LOL

I've never used the iCon surface, but I would assume you could. Behringer or iCon Pro Audio could probably answer that better than me. Thanks for commenting. :)

Thanks for the advice Dane. There is one on the “back” wall and it’s my plan to use it for the chargers. I might actually install a four there just to have some options. I also have lots of room in the panel so I can expand when needed. I’ve been working with a total of eight outlets, including the extension cord I use to bring in power from a plug outside. I’ll be at 10 without the extension cord when this is done so I’ll already be a bit ahead. And my table saw will be required to one of the 220s. 😊

Three! A project manager to tell the supervisor to do it who will delegate it to an apprentice. Unless the project manager sends the supervisor and apprentice to a different project, then is doesn't happen. 🤣

@@JagStar We know that's true don't we?😂

@@onesoulthrust 😂

@@LaurenceMollerup I’m renovating the shop so I can get to, “Hey look at this new Strat I built!” 😊

It will serve for another 50 years! :)

@@jonahguitarguy Thanks Dane.