Відео

@@annewithrow826 Experienced gained through trial and error. The error is always the humbling part. I learned a lot on that build. Best of luck on your project.

Its 3/4 diameter 50000 psi tensile strength zinc plated. The way the force is applied in this application to the rod is under compression . In the example you provide you are using the bolts relying more on Shear Strength which for sure a grade 8 bolt is stronger in shear. I have lifted some really heavy things with the forks and have not had any problem with the 3/4 rod clamps.

@@jeffreywall4818 burning helps preserve the wood and makes it less attractive to wood boring bugs. The door is just for looks not a functional door in any way so no need for real hinges. It was a near zero budget project.

@@abelgarcia480 10 inch blade. Craftsman table saw

@ and the size of the dado blade

@abelgarcia480 I think the dado blade was 6 or 7 inch diameter. It's at a friend's house.

@@thedelcodave thanks for the info I just got a old craftsman saw going to put it to work 👍🫵🫡

@@amelia_jean4Ever I have a full video on the machine. ua-cam.com/video/_u3YeWKG1Sw/v-deo.htmlsi=mMlvtOjLtFv3ztM5

@thedelcodave I figured it out. Thanks!

How do u kno

Happy it helped you out. What direction does the toilet water spin Down under?

@@mountainmike1685 thanks

@@tractorman4461 thanks for checking it out. A removable tongue is a nice feature to have

@@whoblowsthere002 I machined a keyway in the shaft. The pulley uses h bushings that also have a keyway. The H bushings lock tight to the shaft when you bolt them on and I have locking shaft collars as backup. They have not moved and still working great.

@@thedelcodave So for the 18.75 wheel that has a 1 1/4" bore That pulley would take a standard 1 1/4" H bushing? It looks to me that the pulley does not have holes drilled for the H bushing, but you can just drill and tap them and use a regular H bushing setup?

@whoblowsthere002 my pullys run on a 1.5 inch shaft. So the pulley should have a bore of 1 5/8

@@Redhackle thanks. They are pretty basic mechanical diesel engines easy to work on. I prefer the diesel so you never have to deal with bad gas or carburators. The gas models tend to be less expensive to purchase.

@@BIG-ROB92 it's been fine for over a year no die wipes off regardless of what color fabric you sit on it with.

@@tmengelmann mine was the lift arms drifting but the same fix would apply to drifting tilt cylinders

So the one in the rear is the one for the tilt. Correct?

@@tmengelmann rear should be lift front should be tilt if I recall correctly.

@@JEHIAHL I'm not sure how it works. The machine does it when the needle goes down. I just load the bobbin and hand cycle the needle and it pulls the bobbin thread up.

@ that’s how my modern machine works also but I can’t get the treadle to grab it for some reason.

You may have a timing issue. ​@JEHIAHL

@@AmberH36 perhaps that’s it. I don’t even see the bobbin model very back and forth when I hand turn the wheel. I will have to keep tinkering with it until I can figure out the issue for sure.

@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 diesel 3 cylinder Perkins

@@VinesGrapesAndWines I believe we used 1.3 size tip for the clear and 1.2 for the base

@@ukaszgorski1166 outside width is 67 inches.

@@Aelanna they were painted when we did the red paint. I wanted to paint them when I had the tires off

@@thedelcodave I did see that in a later video. So glad your tractor is back to peak performance and looks again! I love these old tractors, it's a shame when people let them decay.

Thankyou

@@marekwieckowski7038 thanks for checking out my video

@@aaronymousunlimited2661 so the mystery was the old phone after all.

@@thedelcodave seems so....I'm back

Some minor improvements have been made. I lucked out do some degree as all my systems worked pretty good from the start which is surprising to me as I never built anything like this before. Call it well thought out or maybe beginners luck lol

@@treepop1550 that is my favorite part about buying vintage tools. You always remember the journey of where you found them and the ppl you buy them from.

I do the same thing with setting aside projects for when its cold out. Take advantage of the nice weather whenever you can.

@@Redhackle thanks for watching

@@jadenvoshall1173 she's a beauty

​@@thedelcodaveI just picked a fe35 1959 in Custer wa your is in a little bit better shape when you picked it up was it closer to the Canada border

@@jadenvoshall1173 hell yeah bro!!! we just recovered an abandoned mf35 in this old woman's back yard, Tooele Utah It is in ok shape, it runs and most of the important stuff works but the steering is locked up and hydraulics need fixing also you should post a video of your tractor

@@ColinMill1 I did not try just a retorque. It's not much more work to change the gasket and it was neat seeing the conditions of the cylinders. I looked up pictures of the ad3 engine and I bet those extra studs fix this common problem completely. Even when I was looking at mine I thought it was odd there was no head bolts along that oil passageway.

@@thedelcodave Thanks for the reply. Yes, by the time you are in a position to torque the head you have done a serious chunk of the job! My 35x has had a weep from there since we got it (24 years ago). She never needs a drop of water between coolant changes and starts and does a day's work just fine. I suspect even Perkins had a little of the attitude to sealing that the British motorcycle industry had - leaks showed the customer that there was still oil inside 😀

@@falunonelatasalatok96 the tires are called AG Grip Harvest King size 6.00-16 6 ply.

@@thedelcodave Thank you very much !

@@Texanfirst727 I hope it is a simple fix for you.

Was your part 19 called a lock valve or a relief valve? Will you please look in your manual. My bucket drifts down whether operating or in lock mode by lifting the safety bar.

@@Texanfirst727 part 19 is the port relief. I didn't mess with the lock solenoid as that one was working. Your machine might be slightly different being s175. Look at your manual to see if you have port relief for lift and for tilt and pull them out to inspect. If they are good then you could have a seal in the tilt cylinders leaking internally basically bypassing pressure. I hope that helps

@@Texanfirst727 also HowIDidit does a UA-cam live every Tuesday 6 pm est. You can ask your questions to the real deal bobcat mechanics. Tell them I sent you.

@@thedelcodave On the S175, I have tilt port relief valve and tilt circuit lock valve. Tilt cylinders were recently done. They work great, but I do have tilt drift. The tilt bucket drift happens both when operating and when I lock the machine, engine on. I'll look at the tilt port relief valve 1st as it is easier to get to than the tilt circuit lock valve as looking at the manual, the solenoids have to be pulled to get to the tilt circuit lock valve. Thanks for your help!

@@RC-Heli835 bummer are you going to try to bring it back to life?

I have since sold that saw but typically if you remove the air filter you should see where the line exits the tank and connects to the carburetor. You will then feed the new fuel line from the top and many times you can grab the end with long needle nose pliers or Hemostats though the fill cap hole and pull into the tank. You attach the filter last.

Believe it or not,this was the reason i bought a very nice 116 si for 75 quid! Dolmars are great saws,it will work for ever!

@@miked5106 I left the floor concrete as I have been using the space as a workshop. I have provisions for a baseboard heater but have not needed it. The room is small enough that a space heater warms it up quick. Even leaving the door to the house warms the room up.

The siding is notched around the door but it fits tightly into a J channel. Wind really cant get behind the piece and even if it did the J channel will limit its travel to about 1/2 inch. I also have aluminum flashing over the door frame so if any water did get past the siding and the J channel it would be blocked by the Aluminum flashing.

@@dougbrodsky3745 you should have a shut off valve at the skimmer basket and one at the return to the pool just shut off both valves and you will not lose any water. If you do not have valves just disconnect the hoses and hold them above the water lever.

@@thedelcodave Unfortunately, no darn shut off valve at either location. Just straight flexible hose connections. Been like this over 20 years. On my second filter. Nothing ever easy lol

@@dougbrodsky3745 are the hoses flexible enough to lift the end above the water line?

@@thedelcodave They should be long enough and flexible enough to have someone hold them up high. I wonder if there is an easy way to attach a temp shutoff after pulling off to each line ?

@@mr.goldsilver4649 I am unsure of the thread im sure it's standard possibly 1/4-20 but that's just my best guess

I think it’s 5/16 thread at least that’s what I it is on a MF 135

@@sstocker31 I did change the other one off camera

@@benkanobe7500 thanks I appreciate. I put lots of hours into this tractor.

@@maxmanus6575 that was extremely hard locus I have learned you have to go slow on the hard stuff. The camera makes it look more Shaky than in person.

Ah, I see. Yes sir, feeding speed is very important. Might be as well an future improvement to add an chain driven crank to improve constant feeding speed as well. Might also be an option to put a drill on it. Cheers. Overall nice work, I really like the effort.

@@maxmanus6575 that is in the plans I hope in the future

I hope to one day add a power feed. Just have to find the time.