Відео

You would have to pull the pistons to update the rings anyway, why not just pay a couple more bucks and replace piston heads?

@@chrismathes3476 yeah I agree that’s the typical way of building ladder steps. I used 7” timber lock structural screws on this one. It’s just as strong.

If you can’t feel them when you scratch at them with your fingernail. You may be able to hone them out.

Glad you liked it!

To be honest. I don’t recall the parts cost but I believe this typically costs about $2500 CAD

I got these pistons from the Audi dealer near me.

No problem! I’ve only ever done a used swap from a transverse car once before. I believe it should be pretty straight forward. The block and head are fairly similar.

I’ve always just used a small amount of engine oil on bearing surfaces etc then disable the ignition and fuel for the first 30 seconds of cranking after reassembly. This helps pump oil through out and has never caused an issue. There’s no harm in using assembly lube if you prefer though.

In order to access the connecting rod bolts on this engine, you have to remove the upper oil pan. The engine and or transmission have to be removed on these vehicles, so that you can access all the bolts to remove that upper oil pan. You could try to do it with the engine installed if you wanted to but it would take way longer and you’d be doing more work than you have to.

Hey, the nice part about doing it this way is that the A/C system stays charged. You just unbolt the compressor and swing it out of the way, while leaving the lines attached. No need to discharge freon.

Awesome, that's helpful to know. Was wondering if I had to evac, that would have required additional equip.@@mattinglewood

I believe this car was a 2010 😊

Hey! There’s no real break in procedure. I usually start it and let it idle for 30-45 minutes then take it for a light to moderate drive.

Hey I’m glad this helps! There’s no real reason to hone cylinders while replacing these pistons. You should be good to go!

Hi mate, I'm thinking of doing the berrymans piston soak on my 2.0T A5, how did you find the whole process? Doesn't seem too hard just a bit sceptical about it.

Hey! Unfortunately I’ve been out of this trade for a few years now so I’m not sure exactly how much. Depending on the labour rate of the shop you choose, you’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian dollars) Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with that question. 😢

Nope, one you complete the mechanical repair, you’re good to go! ECM tuning stays the same.

Hey thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I don’t work in this trade anymore. Wish I could help you more. You’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian) at most shops though. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with your situation 😢

@@mattinglewoodhi there! I have Q5 2.0 B8 2012 engine gone 😢 can you rebuilt? And how much is going to cost? I’m Kitchener Ontario ! Let me know if you can do it? Thank you

@@miska1971 hey, I’m really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I don’t really do automotive work anymore.

Ok no problem

I’m glad you like the Video! Unfortunately I’m not as familiar with the CAGA engine. They were not nearly as common in our market and I never had the opportunity to replace a timing belt on one at the dealership.

No problem!! I hope it helped! 🙌

I believe you can skip over the parts of the video that have music. Hopefully there was some helpful information for you in this video though.

Awesome! I’m really glad it helped!!🙌

Hey, unfortunately unless you replace it with a used engine that has updated pistons…you’ll end up having the same issue. Unless you’re lucky enough to get a used engine with pistons updated. But yes, a used engine with updated pistons would be ideal, financially

You could replace the lower end bearings while you’re in there but to be honest. I’ve never seen bearings fail on this engine. Unless it was due to installation error of connecting rod caps or lack of oil. It’s always a good idea to check bearing condition while you’re in there. My policy on this is..if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it😊 If you don’t measure new bearing clearance with plastigauge to confirm it’s correct, it can also lead to a spun bearing.

Hey I’m glad it helps! Yeah I’d say 2 weekends for someone who has done a few German engine removals. I got these down to about 10-12 hours once I mastered them as a Seasoned Audi technician..with all the tools I needed, ready to go. The first time I did this job though. It took me about 20 hours.

You’re correct. To be honest I leave the starter on the engine when I remove the engine. I just unbolt it from the transmission. Same with the engine mounts. I leave those attached to the block and unbolt them from the chassis.

@@mattinglewood Yea I saw that but diyers will be pulling their teeth out trying to figure that shit out

@@mattinglewood Also what part number did you use for the pistons?

Hey sorry, I’m not sure which part number I used. To be honest I always just order the updated version, through the dealer, by the VIN number. This will typically get you the correct piston for your engine. They no longer sell the old piston design. The part numbers also get updated periodically. Sorry. Wish I could be more helpful 🙂

@@mattinglewood Not a problem how can I tell it's updated what do I look for? You touched on it briefly at the beginning.

Oh maybe I can help 🙂 What was that torque spec for?

@@mattinglewood hello upper pan)

@Nuclear8800 I’ve always done mine the way I suggest in this video 🤷. The service manual definitely says they require a 90 degree stretch.

@Mono Rocket Co. yeah bro I checked . It's said additional 90 deg. He doing wrong. He just tide bolts 15nm and no 90 that's why I check ur video ))) thank you for answering. God bless you .

Hey that’s a fair question. I do have the “pump advance” pulled on, in this video. It helps with cold start. The idle drops once I push that cable back in. To be perfectly honest though. I’ve never adjusted the fuel settings on this pump. It’s been like that since I bought it. Just never bothered to mess with it.

​@@mattinglewood My dad has a mk2 Golf Syncro that has been swapped to a 1.9td AAZ, which basically uses pretty much the same pump as the 1.6, and hearing it run it does like to idle quite a bit high especially when cold, he replaced the choke cable to the pump advance to help with his cold starts, what I found weird is by listening to your engine, it sounded like a very fast idle.

No problem!

Hey I wish I could help but unfortunately I don’t do this for a living anymore. Sorry 😞

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Hey thanks for the question! Those solenoids do not have to go back in the same order. They can go in wherever. Also the engine ECU does a “self test” on those solenoids, each time you cycle the ignition. So if you have issues, you’ll typically have a trouble code light right away. (May not set a check engine light until you drive it)

@@mattinglewood cool thanks, pistons are in hopeful engine is going back in tmr video helped a lot

Awesome!

Hahaha. Unfortunately I don’t do this stuff for a living anymore but I can always talk to you on the phone and bill you for the consultation if you need help. I’d be happy to help answer questions. Feels good to help people with these Audi’s.

Hey, thanks for asking. Hopefully some of this info helps you. It’s sounds like you have an extreme case of oil consumption and you may need more repairs than just the pistons at this point. Replacing the pistons always makes a significant difference in oil consumption but I’ve never seen a vehicle that’s spitting oil out the tail pipe. It sounds like you may need more than just pistons but it’s really hard to say without taking the engine apart to see what’s up. There is also an updated crankcase breather valve and front crankshaft seal, which can both also contribute to higher oil consumption. I’d consider replacing those as well but it sounds like you may need a new short block, at this point.

No it’s critical that you use updated pistons due to the design of old pistons. Using the same pistons will eventually lead to the same issue.

Hey thanks so much! I’m happy it helps! I’d be interested in helping you with some consulting whenever you’re ready.

Hey sorry I thought I had responded to this question for you a while back. Unfortunately I not sure of the part number that you’ll require.

Hey thanks for watching! 1.) I always replace the fallowing bolts -Connecting rod -upper oil pan -Upper camshaft bearing unit, bolts (these are a T30 torx head. You only need to replace those if you remove the cam shafts from the head) -Cylinder head bolts and gasket -Rear main seal bolts and housing -Flywheel bolts Also those aluminum bell housing bolts are suggested to be replaced after the second use but I’ve never seen them fail. 2.) I always re use the bearing shells but it helps to inspect them for any premature wear, while you’re in there. 3.) I never remove the main bearings 4.) I personally used OEM parts because I worked for the manufacturer. I’d say get a head gasket from Audi as well as the connecting rod bolts. Other than that you can get away with high quality aftermarket parts to save some money. Beware though…these cars use tight tolerance and specific fitment..so low quality gaskets/critical parts should be avoided. Hope that helps!

Hey thanks I hope this video helps you. -I always replace the lower and upper oil pan bolts Front lower chain cover bolts Connecting rod bolts Head bolts All seals and gaskets that I remove. I always re use the bearing shells I’ve always used OEM parts because I worked at the dealership but you could get away with some high quality aftermarket stuff.

Hey, yeah unfortunately you’re probably not going to see any obvious mechanical damage or failure when you open the engine up, so you may get charged for the labour. Strange that it’s a 2013 with an oil burning issue, the latest models that I’ve seen with piston issues is 2012. They’d have to open the engine and carefully measure cylinder bores and ring gap. To be honest…even Audi (on the factory service level) won’t release pistons for the vehicle until it’s had a proper oil consumption test done and the tech sends in all the info. On a vehicle as new as yours…they used to make us measure the bore of each cylinder because the issue was supposed to be fixed by 2011 but somehow, there were still a few vehicles after that, which still consumed oil. With that being said…any vehicle I had that was 2012-2013 with this issue, never had any visible damage and all the cylinder bores always measured perfectly to spec. I replaced pistons anyhow…they never burned oil again🤷

This is exactly what I am afraid of, no visible signs then I am stuck with the labour charge for nothing. Thanks for the fast reply man

Hey. Yes it did!