Відео

Thanks, John for your comment! We are grateful that you found ReSecure Latch a solution to your loose door latch or deadbolt problem.

Thanks for the comment. ReSecure Latch was engineered for just some of the reasons you described. Most repairs don't last, and ReSecure Latch is far better than the current metal sleeve that goes over the door. Now we just need to get inside the major stores like Home Depot and Ace Hardware.

Great to hear. We are confident that ReSecure Latch will out live your door 😅. Thank you for your purchase.

Thanks John!

ReSecure Latch can be installed on either side of the doors bore hole. If you are using it for a Dead Bolt or Dead Latch (same thing) you will want the solid side (the side that does not have the cut out) to be facing the outside of the door (or pointing out). ReSecure Latch was designed to allow the dead bolts casing to sit inside of the doors bore hole (as they do on many models). Hopefully that answers your question. If not, you can go to the website where you can contact me personally.

Hey Matthew, did you happen to fix the problem with this method?

Thank you 427. I give all credit to the Lord Jesus Christ for this idea. A funny backstory. When I was in the Apartment/Property Management field, the door to the gym would not always close because the latch would come out enough to keep the door from closing. After removing the door knob and latch, where the 3/4 screws were to secure the latch to the door, the previous maintenance had a 3 inch screw (that was pointless) and the other hole had some type of epoxy that failed to keep the other screw in. The manager would NOT let me use the metal sleeve that would be used in this case ( "Because they are ugly" ) She said. So I sat on my knees for almost 30 minutes, staring at a gaping hole (metal door filled with foam insulation) and what was left of the wood the latch would screw into. God, instantly inserted what would fix this problem (Like a Data Dump). I ran over to my shop and made a quick mock up of what I wanted, and it worked. So, All Praise goes to God for ReSecure Latch... Oh and to my manager that wouldn't let me cheat by using the exterior metal sleeve.

I've commented on other DYi videos mentioning your product. What I like about this short is that you have a "Cut out" that shows how the screws go through the door, threading into your product. Great short and to the point.

@@resecurelatch All glory to our LORD God Most High for the great idea.

@@temiongcecilio Amen and Amen!

B B Thank you for sharing how ReSecure Latch repaired your "Gonzo" -ed door 🤣... Sounds like it was on its last " Latch...? ... 😅. And, thank you for taking the leap to allow us to help save your door.

I don't believe you can (at least I have never seen it) BUT, you could try this (See if you can follow me). You would have to find a 3 inch stainless steel screw where the head does not fall through the overflow plate. Take a metal drill bit that is just a little smaller in thickness than the screw you have. Place the overflow plate when it would sit once installed, take the drill, and drill straight back into the PVC pipe. Take the 3 in SS screw, apply caulking seal to the threads, hand tighten the screw into the predrilled hole, then turn your drill torque down and tighten the screw unit the overflow plate is snug to the tub. The caulking will help seal the threads to the pipe as it punctures through. Don't tighten down too much or you will strip the pipe.

Thanks Steve! It's stories like yours that make me so thankful that the Lord blessed me with this solution. Thank you for sharing your experience.

I would advise using a 2 ¹/² or 3" wood screw. There is a 2x4 just past where the typical 3/4" screws go. This is also a very common issue with apartment communities (where I use to manage).

@@resecurelatch great idea thanks!

If for some reason the longer screws do not catch onto the 2x4, try angling in the screw inward, the frame may sit a tad further in.

You can do the same thing but tilt it 45 degrees to the 4 - 10 o'clock or 5 - 11 o'clock and pre drill. Yes it will look "crooked" but it will obtain a seal (as long as your gasket is still good.

What did you do to fix? Same issue here

Yes. All common doors in the U.S. are 2 ¹/⁸ bore cut for the door handle or deadbolt.

In this video, there isn't any side holes either, you have to make them if you have a single hole cover and drain fitting. If you follow what I did in this demonstration, you should be fine.

The drill bit depends on the size (thickness) of the screw. If you take the screw and a drill bit and lay them over the top of each other (screw on top of the drill), you want the drill to be a little thinner than the screw so that the screw teeth have something to bit into. If you use a drill bit that is the same size, then the screw won't work.

😅 Awesome Response! Glad I was able to help. Go check out my other video on how to save a common door $45-$4,000 here on my channel Resecure Latch.

Hope it worked out for you.

Unfortunately, if you cannot remove the broken bolt, the only option until you can get a plumber out to replace your drain, is to buy a bath silicone and seal around the plumbing drain and gasket to the fiberglass tub hole. There have been times in my career where we had to do this to buy time until the plumber could come out. If your gap between the fiberglass and the plumbing drain is larger than 1/4 inch, you will need to build up a couple layers at first, allow it to dry, then set another layer. Create a "bridge" of silicone from the fiberglass tub to the drain. Hope that helps

It depends on the size of the Stainless steel screws your using. You want to use a Drill just smaller then the Stainless steel screws. This allows the threads of the screw to catch and not split the plumbing pipe.

It depends on the size of the Stainless steel screws your using. You want to use a Drill just smaller then the Stainless steel screws. This allows the threads of the screw to catch and not split the plumbing pipe.

My pleasure Brother! Thank for the comment.

Hope it helped!

Yes, BUT, you will loose the seal between you tub and the pipe where the water goes to prevent your tub from overflowing. There is a gasket that sits between the tub and the pipe. The screw (when tightened down) pulls the pipe to the tub (creating the seal).

You can take the very same drill bit and drill them down, or take some wire cutters or snips and cut them off.

Thanks Jermaine, I believe you got one of my 3-D printed models with the metal Heli coil. Thanks for the great review. Let me know if you want one of the metal versions like the one in the video, I have in stock and we will get it to you right away.

Kathey, if your overflow plate screw is spinning, that would mean that the treading inside it stripped. If you were to take a butter knife and get it behind the tub and the plate to cause resistance and then try to unscrew, tou might be able to. If not, then that center part that holds the screw is lost anyways. Maybe try to pry it off and then get a double hole like the repair in the video.

For your tub stopper. Some are designed where the screw is INSIDE the plug. You have to unscrew the top part from the base. You will need channel locks or anything that is big enough to hold the base, then get a smaller pair of channel locks and while holding the base, unscrew the tip (that the part you grab to pull it up or push down). That should loosen and expose the screw. Push the base down and take the small channel locks and unscrew that. Then you should be free. Chances are, that drain is plugged really bad with hair and that needs to be removed. That can be done with a needle nose pliers. That will allow you to pick out the clog.

Thanks!

For more I just ordered Thrift which is such a lifesaver. It's clog free for the moment but never lasts long. Their old pipes and I have no idea what's going on when I get to the basement there's a huge pipe but I'm not sure what size it is from the tub. These are all questions I wished I would have asked my father before he passed away. He took care of all the problems in the house including electrical. Lol

Interested to hear how it works out for you.

Your very welcome!

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I have tested Schlege door handles and their deadbolt, It's a tight fit for sure. Also, I will have different lengths of screws available, or what ever length can easily be purchased at a home improvement store. Poor execution, not really considering that this new product works with some of the top major bands.

I will look into this 12 and 6 issue. Coming from almost 20 years in the Multifamily Apartment industry, I know this will be a great advantage to the common stick, glue, putty, and external metal cover plates, especially when you need a quick turnaround and something that will last. Thank you for your insight.

I can see an advantage if you want to leave one screw in-place while installing the other for faster alignment, then remove the last screw and replace.

Great question. In a previous video that shows in more detail, I show how it is designed to work with deadbolts too. Having a single hole removes the possibility of using ReSecure Latch in more than just the door knobs.