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You are very welcome. I talk about how to use it in several videos but I will make a video specific to the detail gouge. Stay tuned and thanks for the suggestion!

Thank you!

I love where I live. I grew up in Ironton, went to college in Ada, lived in Toledo for a year, went to Michigan for 3, and finally made Vinton County my home 20 years ago. What part are you from? So I have never tried reverse turning. I reverse sand all the time. The Oneway stronghold chuck has a set screw that can be tightened to prevent the chuck from coming loose while in reverse. The Vicmarc does not that I could find. This doesn’t affect me because I don’t turn in reverse. If you want to turn in reverse, you will want a chuck with this feature. For finishing and reverse sanding, you don’t really need this mechanism. I removed this screw from my Oneway chuck because every time I tightened the screw I would forget about it and try to remove the chuck damaging my headstock threads. If the wood hasn’t warped then remounting the dovetail jaws doesn’t cause too much run out. It’s kind of dependent on how hard the wood is and how tight you expand or compress the jaws. Normally when I’m remounting, I’m making minor cuts or sanding and very little pressure is needed to hold the bowl. If you are compressing a pine tenon, then you will understandably get more unbalance when remounting. If you are turning hickory or hard maple the jaws just don’t compress the wood fibers much and you can get plenty of holding power without much run out. I am not a segmented bowl guy. So I really don’t have much experience with potential failure of the glue joints if you are expanding into the mortise. So they may be right on a tenon being better for that application. Almost every time I’ve had a failure with a mortise or tenon, it was because of my turning technique. The forces created during a catch will cause even the best jaws to wood connection to fail. I’ve babbled on. Let me know if something doesn’t make sense so I can try to clarify.

@ Thanks for the prompt feedback and useful response Chris. I am leaning toward the Vicmarc chuck to take advantage of using a faceplate with the dovetail jaws. Before purchasing however, I will research reverse turning chucks. I agree with you that I would not use a set screw against the lathe spindle threads to facilitate this capability but as a right handed dude, reverse turning would greatly improve visibility and tool control. If I find anything, I’ll let you know. FYI… Raised in Toledo and moved to Dayton for school and work career. I have deer & hog hunted in Vinton CO many times! Mostly along Goosecreek Rd and Zaleski State Forest. Now my wife & I are retired and full time RV so home is where we park it. We spend winters in South Texas at an RV park that has about 65 members in the wood club. I wish I would have found interest in wood turning long ago but it is never too late to take up a new hobby. Keep turning….

@tdc9047 my land borders Zaleski State forest. It’s a great hobby and UA-cam has made it easier for all of us to learn from each other. There are other off brands of faceplate rings. You should be able to use any chuck with faceplate rings as long as you properly size one with the Jaws you are using. I did see some faceplate rings only have the inside dovetail and the outside is straight. With those you can not clamp down on the ring. So keep that in mind as you shop for one. I could use my Oneway chuck with my Vic mark faceplate ring if I used the correct size jaws. I’m sure it’s better to match brands to make sure the dovetail profile is identical though….Enjoy Texas, it’s negative 8 here this morning

Not sure what you are saying. In English it said “tabor”cannot be left that loose. Not sure what a tabor is? I haven’t had any issues with this dock so far though.

Thanks for watching and the feedback

Yes I think you could. You would probably need to clamp the long case side to the bench so it didn’t move on you and put the end flush with your bench. Then you could clamp your tail to your bench against it. Some people use a rabbet and fillister plane to cut a small 1/32-1/16” rabbet on the tail board. Then that would give you a shoulder against the pin board. This would make transfer possible without a clamp. I did find one of those planes recently at an estate sale so will be trying that out next time. They are pretty expensive new! Thanks for watching and the comment :)

That’s a possibility.

I’m going to have to try the colored pencils! When using markers I would put some shine juice (oil and shellac mix) on the bare wood before using the markers. This would keep the markers from bleeding thru the grain. Basically the marker was marking the shellac surface. Thanks for the pencil experience :)

Thanks Tony! Hope your channel is doing well!

@@woodworkingmcdanielstyle Having a good time! And all the video work is slowing down the growing collection the wife is always dusting! :-) Your grit and woodbutter get mentioned in at least 75% of my videos.. still the best thing EVER for a universal finish!

@tonyturnswood thank you so much for the shout outs. I agree! That’s the easiest fool proof finish. The video work can be exhausting!

Thank you!

Thank you! I appreciate you watching and the encouragement :)

I’ll check it out and Stuart. Thanks for watching and the comment :)

Interesting…I’ve never heard of it. I’ll take a look. Thank you!

It’s just wax and oil mixed together into a butter like firmness. Here is a video on how I make it. Also can make your own abrasive paste similar to Yorkshire grit. how to easily make food safe Wood Butter finish and abrasive paste for less $$$ ua-cam.com/video/SdFtLwZovtk/v-deo.html

Yeah I think the sharpies work better for sure. I’m seeing a few new suggestions in the comments I might try. That’s awesome! I’ve given tops to the youth sports teams I’ve coached and to kids at craft shows etc. They definitely are fun and even my adult coworkers enjoy having one to spin at their desk during conference calls. I appreciate you sharing and the encouragement to put a smile on kid’s faces!

War & piece 😂

I assume you are coloring the whole thing and not making detail lines of differing colors?

@@woodworkingmcdanielstyle , no detail lines. That is correct.

I have some shoe polish I will never use I can try.

@@woodworkingmcdanielstyle Works really good on porous wood. Wipe off and the color remands in the pores. If you put on to much than use a rag dampen with mineral spirits to remove the excess wax.

I think it will last but just doesn’t look that great so I wouldn’t recommend using wax crayons. Some other suggestions in the comments from other viewers I may try. Thanks for watching and the comments!

Thanks for the recommendation. Do you have any issues with them drying out in your shop?

They definitely work great. Mine just seem to dry out in my shop. I was hoping to find something with a longer shelf life. Thanks for watching and the comment!

It could possibly work for some projects. But for tuning, I think something hard that can make detailed small markings is desired. Small sharpie markers work really well but I was looking for something that would not dry out in my shop. I’ll keep tinkering and if I find a good solution, I’ll post a follow up video with details. Thanks for the suggestion!

I’ll have to look up Chesnut products spirit stains. Thanks for the recommendation. Thanks for watching and the comment :)

I probably didn’t mention the “Jumbo” screw because I rarely use it. I normally use a faceplate ring. Just my turning style I have developed. I also removed my grub screw because I tried to take my chuck off several times forgetting to loosen the screw. I haven’t tried reverse turning so it’s normally not an issue. I didn’t know the Vicmarc is greased. I guess that’s why they seal the back to keep dust out of the grease. If that’s the case I think I prefer the easily cleanable dry Oneway. I really want to come visit England, Scotland, and Ireland. Supposedly my heritage is Scott-Irish. My accent comes from growing up in the Appalachian mountain region (Ohio-West Virginia border). It’s a specific accent not really found in the rest of the USA. Thanks again for supporting the channel and offering valuable feedback!

@@woodworkingmcdanielstyle Give me a shout if you ever get over, but in the meantime you must realise the Scots actually come from Ireland !

Embarrassed to say I didn’t know that. I love history so maybe I should educate myself on that whole region.

Happy new year to you as well! Thanks for watching and commenting. I’m going to give those grease pencils a try that another viewer mentioned. My markers in the shop dry out because I don’t use them frequently enough.

I’m not familiar with grease pencils. I looked them up and if they are a harder material, I think they may be a decent option. I might get some and try them out. I think the crayons may have been too soft. Thanks for the suggestion!

I just saw that when another viewer asked. I looked them up in the Barlow tackle catalog and saw “hook hangers”. If you find a cheap source for jitterbug lips I would love a link or mention!

It’s possible but I still doubt the crayons would be a good solution. I’m still curious what the guy I watched was using. It seemed like a very hard substance but did a great job. Hopefully someone will comment with some other ideas.

I’ve been seeking for $15-20 depending on size. They take me about 15-20 minutes to make.

The clarification has been in the video description. The overall point is still accurate. It is a lot of money and not a necessity for someone starting out. Thanks for watching and the comment!

That’s the standard but you could use a smaller or larger wheel. You are creating a radius curve on your tool so the 6 inch would make it more pronounced. But it’s not a deal breaker. If buying a new system I would go with the industry standard of 8 inches wheels.

Thank you I appreciate it! Did I leave out that part?! I got small lure screws from Barlowstackle.com and also got eye-screws, hook hangers and split rings. You can use the hook hangers on the bottom and a split ring and eye screws on the end and split ring. Or you can use eye screws and split rings in both locations. A jitterbug uses a hook hanger for reference. A pair of split ring pliers are helpful as well. Let me know if you need more details.

@woodworkingmcdanielstyle Thanks i appreciate it!

You are welcome! Good luck making some. I want to make some jitterbugs but looking for some less expensive lips. Hopefully a video coming this year.

Thank you!

Thank you! I’m pretty faithful wearing safety glasses but I appreciate the reminder and encouragement to be at 100%

Awesome. I hope they turn out well for you! Thanks for watching and the comment :)

Absolutely. Didn’t know I said turns. Thanks for the correction. Sometimes speaking live we say some crazy things.

You are very welcome! Thanks for watching and the comment :)

Absolutely! I’ve seen several make their own jig for sharpening that works. Bowl prices probably depend on what market you are in. I’ve sold some bowls for $200 and several for $80-100. I’m in a lower income geographic area. I’m sure in some areas the $200 bowl would go for $500. But yes sharpening is not as complicated as some try to make it. You are getting results and that’s all that matters. Thanks for watching and the comment!

Thank you!

Very welcome

You are very welcome. Some guys advertise cleaning products to keep them from gumming up but my father-in-law tried one of the more popular ones and his CBN wheels still gummed up. So I am too scared to try it on mine lol. I appreciate you watching and for the comment :)

I have tried to sharpen by hand and it didn’t work for me. Your cheap bowl gouges should work if you can get them sharp. I fear that the d-way gouges will work for you for about 5 minutes and be dull and you might have the same frustrations. I would recommend looking at the Wolverine varigrind jig and a slow speed bench grinder with 8 inches wheels. You will need a system like that to sharpen all turning tools so you won’t regret that purchase. Then I would recommend either a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch bowl gouge and a decent size handle to go with it. I personally don’t find the largest length handle necessary but it is a preference thing. You can get a negative rake scraper (any brand) if you want but not absolutely necessary. And I create my mortise or tenons to attach chuck by using parting tool and/or skew chisel (any brand). But I’m using them as scrapers. Meaning the tool handle is slightly above the cutting edge. If you make bowls with sharp turns at the bottom then you may want to eventually get a bottom feeder bowl gouge. But I made bowls for years before I bought one. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

@ thanks again for your reply Always super helpful Do you think a variable speed grinder is better than a single speed Looking to get WEN 5-Amp 8-Inch Variable Speed Bench Grinder with Flexible Work Light. Any thoughts Should I get only white stone? Thanks again

You don’t need variable speed. If you want WEN then this will work. amzn.to/3DzIGyo Many like this Rikon. amzn.to/41RgIIs Both of those units don’t need the stones changed. What they come with will work perfectly fine. You will want a dressing tool to keep your stones true and fresh. Something like this amzn.to/41Rh7dW And here is the varigrind jig amzn.to/4fBewrW

I really like this style parting tool. I have the d-way parting tool and I actually prefer this style. I got one for like $12 but I don’t see one that cheap anywhere. amzn.to/41ObhtS

Thanks a million Amazing Gonna go for Rikon 25 bucks more but… Appreciate the help Almost done with my first lidded box by accident

Thanks a lot for the encouraging feedback. I have a playlist on sharpening you can watch. There is absolutely nothing different with how to use a stone grinder. I really can’t easily do a video because I would have to change my whole setup. But I used to have the cheap stone grinder on the same varigrind jig. The CBN wheels and the stone wheels are both 8 inches so no changes needed. As you watch each specific sharpening video, please ask clarifying questions with a time stamp in the video and I will respond with clarifying answers.

I like that cheap parting tool I have. It’s just a simple HSS one off Amazon. I use d-way tools handled with their quick change knobs. I have a video about tools with no handles that shows them off.

Here is the video ua-cam.com/video/XxDh-Tnvvy8/v-deo.htmlsi=pVCWAKp3nGhu2hoh

Yeah I have made a lot of furniture but I’ve kept them in my house or gave to my kids. Just too many hours and material cost for me to sell them. People don’t understand the cost of lumber either. 8/4 had to cost a pretty penny!