Відео

I'll pass along your compliments to the chef. 😉

It came from AliExpress. I'll add the component links to the description.

@@boxsoft Thanks!!

There is a 10A slow blow fuse within the IEC power inlet socket. The Neurochrome ISS (Intelligent Soft Start) ensures there not too much current flowing at power-on. Therefore, I should be fine. 🙂

@@boxsoft perfetto! 👍

Thanks for the heads up. I tend to wait until I have the main hole punched for each. Then I place the connector in the hole, and center-punch the position of the screw holes.

That definitely works, too. 😊👍👍 I am known to overthink things and spend a lot of time pre-planning and trying to decide all my spacing and the like. And especially in close quarters (multiple connectors close together), that screw spacing being different can mess things up when they are a little further out from center. Of course, if you have plenty of space, it doesn't really become an issue.

⁠​⁠@@mikey38632thank you so much for sharing that. That’s exactly what I’m here for. I was using a 7/8 drill bit which was too small, the next drill size up for mounting XLRs is 15/16 (too big) so 24 mm precisely it is. Have you found a precise tool, or can you point me in the right direction before I purchase anything as to what I need exactly? Any help appreciated

@@user-mx1nb6sj8t if you're using Standard/SAE, 15/16 is your bit in most cases. Planning to do a ton of panels, I invested in the Greenlee 15/16" punch before its price hopped up over $100. It has been great. You could probably get away with a 15/16 hole saw for metal, just try not to let it walk on you. Looking at the drawings, the various connectors' mounting holes are "nearly" 24mm and vary a little when it comes to the precision measurement.

@@mikey38632 oh ok so 15/16 is good, great to know thanks

I drill starter holes, then use a wire-saw to get the basic shape. Then I use various files to tidy the hole until the IEC socket fits. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0995LQSQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I wouldn't use it for that. The power handling capacity is probably too low, and it needs an enclosure to breathe. However, I'm not sure what you mean by pillar pods.

@@boxsoft as midrange in a-pillar of car

@@hunkkwoizer6653 I don't think it would fit in a car's A pillar. The speaker is too wide and deep, and requires an enclosure to work well. Also, it handles a maximum of 20 watts, and most car stereos have amplifiers far more powerful than that.

I hear what you're saying, but I would rather have it freeze once every few years, than have the pump constantly do that extras work.

I was able to just barely get my had to fit inside, so that I could position things. I adhered them due to base plate with a bucket of hot glue (which I couldn't accurately apply, explaining why I used so much). If you can get your hand inside for that, I suggest that you "call a friend". 😁

@@boxsoft Thank you for the response. Did you glue to the floor if the enclosure? Or did you have to use the wall and floor? I will have to get help as my hand will not fit. Again, thanks.

@@RWmHII I positioned the crossover components on the floor, then reached into the hole with the hot glue gun and rained down the gooey stuff. :) Depending on the type of speaker connectors (I used the Dayton binding posts for this), you'll need to reach inside to tighten the nuts to secure the wire lug. Alternatively, you could use a Neutrik SpeakON connector, feed the wire out the back, connect it to the SpeakON, then push the SpeakON back in and screw things down. That's what I did with the little Switchcraft toggle switch, which controls whether to engage the optional inductor to tame the sizzle.

Thank you!

I finished my pair recently, with the help of a friend with smaller hands. They sound better than I expected.

This particular build was part of a kit, so I mostly followed the instructions. One variation was that I included a switch in the back to swap the optional high frequency filter in and out, depending on listening position. I'll be building another, and I'm considering doing it as a larger, sealed box. As for the purpose, it's currently being used for full range music in the kitchen. I have other excellent systems, so this was just a "good enough" solution. With the copper paint, it looks nice sitting on the cabinets. ;)

That's a good idea, Ima try that

Memory Lane on Hyde Park has a vendor with antique pans, and he's already done the job of restoring and seasoning them. The stall is on the left-hand side, just before the very back room. Cobbletog on Exeter Road also has a good selection, but the last time I was there the pans needed a fair bit of love. What size were you wanting? I might have a spare pan for you.

@@boxsoft Thanks Mike! We’ll check these two places out. I don’t mind one that needs some work. I watched a couple restoration videos and it looks fun to season an old rusty cast iron. :-) I’m looking for a 12-inch one, but any size would be fine for me to try it out. If you happen to have a spare one, I’ll be happy to buy one from you. :-)

@@maggiehuang46 Actually, I do have a 12" skillet that I'm not using. It's a good pan, but I found one that's more to my liking, so it's been sitting idle in my cold room. My only "complaint" is that it has the newer style "rough" surface (like all the Lodge pans do now), while I prefer a smooth polished surface of older antique ones. It served me well for a few years, and you're welcome to it if you want it.

Interesting idea! I'm planning to add a backup pump soon, so I may add the bypass when I do.

Yeah, that definitely sounds frustrating. My sump discharges at the side of the house, and follows some weeping tile to the back of the lot.

Yes, that's the point. 😉

The black pipe is ABS plastic instead of PVC. It is typically stronger than PVC but shouldn't be run outside in direct sunlight, as it could get hot and deform. A hair dryer would work on PVC pipe to melt ice in it too.

@@Cynthia_Cantrell Thank you Cynthia. We were wondering if adding insulation around the PVC pipe and the PVC elbow would help prevent water freezing inside the pipe. We tried to get foam insulation around the elbow but very stiff to cut at an angle and have it attach. Not even sure if foam insulation would prevent freezing. Then we thought maybe wrap fiberglass insulation around instead. Any input on this? Thanks

@@gaild9630 Whether or not you pipe freezes will depend on how much of it is exposed outside to cold temperatures. Mine runs mostly underground once it is outside, and usually has very little (almost no) water in it. So I haven't had any problems with it freezing. If your pipe runs above ground that could be a problem, unless you live in a southern climate. If there is just a small section of pipe above ground right next to the house (like mine) you can build a small insulating box with Hardibacker or plastic lumber and fill the insides with insulation. If you keep one side in contact with the house, and the other the ground, that will help keep it from freezing. If you live in Canada though, you might need to add some heater wire for really cold nights. Insulating difficult areas inside the house can be done by stuffing fiberglass insulation into the area, or using a can of the polyurethane spray foam. But that will only keep cold air from getting inside your house - it will NOT keep your pipe from freezing! I hope that helps!

The pipe was frozen at the top of the U, as it exited the house. There was no blockage beyond that, as any water that had made it beyond the U fell away from the house. Consequently, I could melt the blockage by applying heat to that U-section from inside the house, as shown in the video. It would have been harder to do it from the outside, as the outside air was much colder than the inside air, and the blow dryer may not have been able to heat that colder air sufficiently to warm the pipe and melt the ice block inside.

Thank-you! :)

Sorry to hear that. Perhaps it's frozen enough that the valve can't open. Have you tried heating the line directly above the check valve? If the whole standing pipe is frozen, I doubt that will help, though.

ok Thx

It sounds like your pump might be air locked - check in the basin for a weep hole below the check valve. This might be helpful too, it explains the weep hole: ua-cam.com/video/MoLb6YAFbGg/v-deo.html

Thanks, I hadn't considered that. I'll do a bit of research to find out why it's there in the first place.

The vent hole is there for air circulation to prevent humidity build-up in your cold room. (Potentially leading to mold). With your weeping tiles and sump pump that room will get very humid without that vent. Your exit line should be insulated, you can also look into plumbing 'heat tape' which keeps the pipe a few degrees above zero to prevent freezing. Unfortunately my sump pump line froze a few weeks ago OUTSIDE the house, underground. Seems the pipe broke down there. Instead I had to cut the line outside the house and run a temporary pipe to the backyard.

Yeah, I'm not sure why my phone suddenly did that. I rebooted it shortly after, and I've not seen it again.

Enjoy! I just got another pan for my birthday today (actually a high walled skillet with a lit that could also be used as a pan). It's pre-seasoned from Lodge, but I usually add a layer or two of my own seasoning. I'll get a video of that up in the next couple of weeks.