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G'day Bob, In one of my horology books it mentions quenching long thin parts holding it vertically and going straight down into the quench medium. I'm wondering if doing 80% of the work first, then quenching and tempering, followed by the final shaping and finishing, would help. All the best with your experiments. Cheers Duncan

@@theselectiveluddite Yep, did the vertical quench. It might be worth thinking about a slower dunk...dunno. Ideally you'd make the tool out of pre-hardened steel...but that's a hell of a lot more work! I'll keep at it - it may be that the taper on the blade needs to be more conservative in order to maintain stiffness during the hardening process.

​@@bobbobbins8913 A broach shouldn't be full hard; it needs to have small amount of flexibility or you run a risk of breakage in use (not a friend to eyes...). The music wire I use, from K&S Metals at model aeroplane shops, is quite hard and will blunt the teeth of a file (don't ask me how I know...), so I don't do any heat treatment on it. The tapers on broaches is very subtle, and as such when you buy them they come in sets of 6 - 10, or so, so you can find the one that will do the required job. Opening up a hole a fair amount can require more than one broach to complete the job. Hope this helps :)

@@theselectiveluddite Normally I'd agree, but a great deal depends on the application. I've never broken a reamer in 45+ years because I'm going into a tube and cutting tenths of a mm. I found a fully hardened blade keeps an edge for much longer, which is a consideration on cuts that can be as long as 10cm. if there's any taper it's only on the extreme lead-in...which is why D-bits are favoured. But the penta-broach is too intriguing a prospect to pass up :) - it's just that making a more or less parallel blade isn't going to be easy. But..I feel a lathe fixture coming on.. ;)

@@bobbobbins8913 Hmmm, would putting a shim either side of the broach-to-be, for the ends of the abrasive (wrapped with sticky tape so that it doesn't grind down the shims) to slide along, help with getting parallel faces? Because you're going for 5 sides, you'll always have a contact line underneath that's almost the original diameter, so the thickness of the shims should stay relevant for the whole shaping process. Would be interested in your thoughts :) Cheers

Thank you Martin :)

G'day Robert, It's high carbon music wire, by K&S Metals (the finest stuff they make), as sold in good model aeroplane shops. I have not come across anyone using stainless steel. Modern hairsprings are often made with Invar, a nickel-iron alloy discovered in 1895, or Elinvar, a 52% iron, 36% nickel, and 12% chromium alloy. These alloys have very low effects from changes in temperature making them very suitable for watch hairsprings. I'm interested in 18thC, and earlier, watchmaking in particular, so plain carbon steel is most appropriate. Cheers

Glad you enjoyed it, Fazil. All the Best.

Thank you :)

So this is the tool, that we can use for making hair spring, sir??

@@JayaRumahMurai Yes it is. Be sure to watch the other two parts, as well as the video on making special tweezers for doing the curling (ua-cam.com/video/0h--nJZPVD4/v-deo.html). This was more or less how it was done in the 1700's. All the Best.

Also, check out Clickspring's video on making hairsprings, with many more turns, where he uses more modern methods, but still ones that can be done in the home workshop ( ua-cam.com/video/in6yWrlighI/v-deo.html ). Cheers

Glad you found it informative. :)

Thanks Dusty :)

G'day, Yeah, the pith I'm harvesting tends to be under 15mm. Cheers

Thank you :)

Ohh, Gee, thanks :) Based on the interest I got demonstrating engraving at a recent exhibition, I'm thinking an engraving video needs to be next on the list, including making the rotating vice.

@@theselectiveluddite I would love that! I have many interests, like you. I have many skills too, but engraving isn't one of them. I was very impressed by your sketches for engravings.

Glad you liked it , Chris.

@@theselectiveluddite Very much! Obviously, patience is the key, but the beauty of your video is that shows how forgiving the spring wire is. That means for all of us watchmaking dabblers, the spring will survive!

Great to hear it was of use to you :) All the Best with your clock project.

Glad you enjoyed it Bris. In regards engraving, the high end engraving houses in Switzerland still use the same tools as in the 1700's: a sharp, and very hard, piece of carbon steel stuck in a little wooden handle, pushed by hand, some magnification (so, OK, it's ramped up a little bit since then, going from a Loupe to binocular microscopes :) I use both when engraving, depending on size of work), and a way of holding the work and turning it easily. You can be all set up for around $50. The hyper expensive pneumatic set ups you see a lot on videos is not actually needed. Check out Watches TV YT channel and find the series from a few years ago where Marc takes a group of watch lovers up into the Jura mountains and visit a bunch of watchmakers, and the above referenced engraving house. I'm going to try and do a video on engraving, if other commitments will allow. Cheers

Thanks Josue, Be sure to watch these two following videos, about making a much better tool to do the curling with, and putting it all into practice to finish the spring. All the Best. ua-cam.com/video/0h--nJZPVD4/v-deo.htmlsi=E2YXlOVMKM00moR9 ua-cam.com/video/98wI6IA4TH0/v-deo.htmlsi=nuV6an-8fmU23zqk

@@theselectiveluddite yes ,i will,bery exited ,i am thinking to get some experience on coke can strips .

G'day BLenz, Yes, terminology between trades can get interesting; where a tool like this in another field would indeed be called a reamer, in Horology it's referred to as a broach, and the action of using it is called 'broaching': eg. "Broaching out a pivot hole". I don't know why there's the difference, but all the Horology books I've got, dating back into the 1800's, refer to them by that term. Are you into engineering? All the Best

Also, @johndilsaver8409, at the bottom of the comments, mentions googling the difference between broach and reamer, and it seems to be a size thing. Cheers

Pleasure. Glad you found it useful. All the best :)

:) Thanks. Don't forget the others in the series so you can see what it becomes. Cheers

Thanks Mars :)

I used the finest music wire (sometimes known as Piano wire) made by K&S Metals. I buy it from model aeroplane stores and it is quite cheap. Cheers

Chris' videos are amazing. Been a Patreon supporter of his for a number of years :)

XD Thank you very much :)

Thank you very much :)

Been a Patreon supporter of Clickspring for some years. Top level content :)

Ditto 🙌

@@danielkemp4860 Thank you :)

Thanks, hope you found it interesting :)

And thanks again :)

Thank You :)

Glad to help Benny.

I cover that process in the video from 14:40 - 16:35 Cheers.

Thanks :) Videos on engraving/printing are on the 'to do' list. A watch my dad has, from 1745, has a watch paper in the outer pair case from a watchmaker to British royalty! Fascinating things. All the best with your pursuits.

Thanks :) I'm constantly amazed at what skills people developed with minimal tooling; just time, patience, and aptitude. I don't want to see those skills lost. Part 3 is better, as I made some discoveries/improvements to the way I was doing things. Have a Good New Year.

G'day haipham, to calculate how many beats an unknown watch requires, I'm quoting from Saunier's 'The Watchmaker's Handbook' from 1880: "Multiply together the numbers of teeth of the wheels, starting with the one that carries the minute-hand (which therefore makes one revolution in an hour), but exclude the escape-wheel. "Multiply together the numbers of leaves of the pinions, commencing with the one that engages with the centre-wheel. "If the first answer is divided by the second, the number obtained gives the *number of revolutions* of the escape-wheel in an hour. "Multiply this figure by *twice the number* of teeth of the escape-wheel, and the answer is the *number of single vibrations performed by the balance in one hour* " If you have remains of the original hairspring, measure it's thickness and width as I did in my first hairspring video (link starts at the right spot ua-cam.com/video/fM7tsGYNAPc/v-deo.htmlsi=R--r9YiFW5nwqQaf&t=610 ). Make the new hair-spring one or two coils too long, as you can always shorten it, fit to the watch, time it, and shorten as required. I put the watch to my ear, and count the tic *or* the tock, while running a stopwatch, for 60 seconds. I then double the result (so as to count both the tic and tock), and then multiply the answer by 60 to get the number of beats in an hour. There are apps for Android that will listen to your watch and show the beats per hour; or you can set the beats you're after and it will show you how fast/slow it is. The one I use is free and called 'Watch Accuracy Meter' on Google Play. The three dots at the top right of the screen gives you access to Options. A word of warning: phones have very strong magnets in their speakers which can badly affect a hair-spring. I use a plug in lapel mic. (bought for around $20) to listen to the watch while keeping it well away from the phone. If you don't know how many coils the hair-spring should have, but many of that model watch were made, try finding images of complete ones that show the hair-spring and count the coils. The number of beats you're talking about says that you are working on very modern watches, with a lot of coils in the hair-spring. This is not something I've tried to do; 200 - 300 year old verge watches have only 2.5 - 6 coils, so are a lot easier to make. All the Best :)

Thanks Avian, I live in a rural town in Australia, which means getting specialised items can be expensive and take a while to arrive. It's easier, and a *lot* cheaper, for me to get to a model aeroplane shop (store) and buy the finest music wire they have and do the reduction myself. Also it means that if I'm ever in need of a hairspring for a watch, I can start work on it immediately, without having to wait a couple of weeks for the materials to arrive etc. And I enjoy making things from basic stock :) Cheers.

Thank you kindly

Glad you liked it Jason. What era watches do you make hairsprings for?

@@theselectiveluddite I make hairsprings for dials and indicators. I don't assemble them to the instrument, but I do put the collet on them and form the ends as the customer requires. My tooling uses stack winding to make the springs, so I get as many springs per winding as fit between two coils. Though I can't make as much volume as the automated companies, my quality has been better (that last is directly from my customers). My tooling and method is probably from the early 1900's. Think, repurposed hand-cranked drill.

@@jasondayon4702 Beautiful ! Gazeley, and I think De Carle, describe similar methods in their watchmaking books from the mid 1900's for cottage watchmaking. Well done :)

G'day Luis, It's just ordinary paper that we put in our desktop printer :) Cheers

G'day, the book is 'Watch and Clock Making and Repairing' by W.J. Gazeley, FBHI. Page 399. Cheers

@@theselectiveluddite Cheers mate, ordered myself a copy.

Thank you :) I have a number of things I want to cover, but unfortunately life has been very tiring and I haven't had the energy for filming/editing for a while. I will get back to it when I can. Cheers

G'day a.c.116, Sorry for the lateness of reply; we've been otherwise occupied of late. I wanted to use the methods that were employed at the time the watch I'm restoring was made, as I'm very interested in how things used to be done. I may make up a 4 spring curling box at some stage, in order to make later, 1800's, hairsprings, but the experimental archaeology side, using simple tools and relying on practice and patience, appeals to me :) All the Best.