Відео

Sorry but I don't know which clone it is, I bought it from a really good seller on ebay who I have bought the majority of my Nepenthes from. He has some really good plants he takes cuttings from and also does his own crosses.

Wow good question, to be honest I don't know, I've not got anything I could use to measure it. The humidity mostly comes from the small (< 5mm) amount of water I keep in the trays most of the time, although I do let that dry out between waterings. On rare occasions I might mist the leaf tips of the odd plant to encourage the trap formation, but that is only if I remember which I don't tend to. So whatever the humidity is the plants seem happy enough with it that they grow well and trap pretty consistently.

@@davidb5255 Either way, that’s awesome. I have my nepenthes in my homemade greenhouse, a controlled environment, humidity constantly around 80 percent. From so many sources saying at least 60 percent. But they higher humidity the better. I saw a video of a guy growing lowland nepenthes OUTSIDE. I asked him how he’s done that and he replied he lives in the Philippines. Well that’s easy enough, that’s where they come from. Cool!

For humidity I think if you asked 10 different people you would get 10 different answers. Ultimately the real answer depends on the species or hybrid you are growing and where they would live naturally, i.e. lowland, intermediate or highland. I doubt I get more than 60% humidity but so far the ones I have seem to love it. It's possible there is one maybe two that don't pitcher as frequently as the others but that could just be variation in the vigor of the hybrid rather than too low humidity. When I first started growing carnivorous plants some 40 years ago I stuck to Sarracenia, Drosera and Pinguicula as back then the Nepenthes needed grow tents with 25+'C temperatures all the time and 80+% humidity, something I just don't have the space to accomodate. I think in recent years with Nepenthes popularity growing there are so many excellent hybrids which are tollerant to really wide ranges of temperatures and humidity that you can grow them quite successfully on just a windowsill, see #windowsillnepenthes as an example. Some of the ones I have, hamata as an example, I've heard varying comments on whether you can grow that on a windowsill with maybe not optimal conditions, but just look at mine, it's stunning, doing way better than I could have possibly hoped for. I think there is also an aspect of adaption, within reason, that Nepenthes are prepared to do and still thrive. Again this from what I have heard depends a lot on the hrybrid. BTW where do you live and what sorts of Nepenthes do you have growing in your greenhouse?

@@davidb5255 That’s awesome you’re growing a Hamata. It looks great. I’d love to have one someday. I kinda have limited space in my greenhouse, and I think they’re expensive. I’ll have to get a hybrid. I live in Illinois, I have three Gayas and one Veitchii x Mira x lowii. I was told they’re good intermediate, beginner plants. All of them under a simple shop light from Harbor and freight and they’re growing well.

@@DeadlyPlants2024 My Hamata was quite expensive, IIRC it was around £110 or approx 140USD, but well with it. Bought it with a load of others from Scottish Carnivorous Plants, that video is on my channel also if you are interested.

Thanks but no chance I'll swap, especially my hamata! What do you have BTW?

@@davidb5255 Manley the same as you, but my nep's are a hell of a lot smaller

The garden center I bought it from many many years ago lied to me 😮 Worst still I've been telling people it's alata all this time when it's not. Thanks for pointing out my mistake, you are right I looked up the difference, Windowsill Nepenthes had a good video, this is indeed not alata. I'll be out with my labelling pen later to correct this.

They are not impossible to kill, however even if they look dead it's always worth leaving them for a bit just incase they do regrow from the roots.

@@davidb5255 well I got mine in the mail a couple days ago and it had green leaves but the stem/stock was brown and then they just all fell off expect two and now they are brown as well so I’m just trying to hopefully see if they will grow back from the roots so let’s hope and pray!

@@LesleeHutchison That does not sound good. If you don't mind me asking where do you live? Is it likely the plant has experiemced too colder temperatures or too hot? The leaves that have browned, did they show signs of mould? If they did I would cut them right down to prevent it spreading into the roots. That is what I did for mine that git frosted, see the linked video in the description.

@@davidb5255 you are right I had emailed the company it was “hirt gardens” or something from Walmart but I had sent them photos and they emailed me back and said that they definitely didn’t ship it like that and that it must have gotten to hot over transit I’m pretty sure it came from Florida and I live in Tennessee and I’m pretty sure the whole shipping from there to me was like 3 days? But I had just got some long fiber sphagnum moss with perlite mix and took it out and removed most of the soil and rinsed in a bowl of distilled water and I was checked the roots and they all feel pretty firm except one that came off but I don’t really know if that means anything yet but I rinsed the mix in distilled water as well and put it back under my grow light (I live in a basement with high humidity but I used grow lights) so I’m hoping I’ve done everything I can to help it maybe I should put a dome over it too for more humidity or is to much humidity a thing? I really do appreciate your comment tho now is just the waiting game and I’m hoping to update this one day with good news!

And no mold

I tend to stand them in ~5mm of water all the time in a propagator with the vents partly closed to raise the humidity a bit. 5mm prevents the perlite drying out but is open enough that the stem is not sat in water, the pots are also fairly tall. That said I tried one rooting strategy in which you put the stems in just clean water, they did not rot but equally well they did not show any signs of growing roots either even after 3-4 months so I gave up on that method.

@@davidb5255 thanks for the reply. I’m currently trying the just water method & am having the same problem. I’ll definitely try perlite. Thanks again.

@@everfreebrumby8385 Even with perlite they do take several months to root. Don't be tempted to dig them out until the bud develops leaves at least 2-3 inches long if not longer. I've had one cutting on the go for 4-5 months and only now is the bud even thinking about shooting, forget any leaves!

@@davidb5255 thanks again.

Hi, to free the hub from the wheel you need an 11mm hex key, ~1m34s into the video. Cheers

​Hi​@@davidb5255,for mi Allez E5,I have used Allen 16 mm Thanks.

Thanks for identifying the yellow flowered plant. I've not had a utricularia for a very long time, probably 30+years. I'll have to pick them out into their own pots, will need to lookup how you look after them as I'm out of practice.

Yes very much. A friend has also bought one and is really pleased with it. If the UniqueDisplay one held the falcon better I would suggest that as an alternative as it's base cost, before shipping, is less.

I guess it depends a bit on where you live, UK vs abroad, and if UK where abouts. I live not that far away from Evesham in the UK, there is a garden supply company there called Vale Gardens that still do bales of peat at a reasonable price, 100l for £11. Not sure what the delivery would be. Alternatively a quick search for UK found a place called Forker which had it for £17.50 including delivery. The other alternative is coir, never used it personally so would not be able to suggest a brand or even where to get it, I think you do need to be a bit careful with that to make sure its properly washed. A final alternative is pre-mixed compost from commmercial carnivorous plant suppliers, however I suspect that will be very expensive for a big planter, fine if you only have one or two plants to pot up though.

Glad it was helpful. The LEDs are not terribly difficult albeit a bit time consuming given the number of LEDs you need to solder together. My advice is make it as neat and regular as possible as the finished cube will look a lot better if they all line up.

That will probably work as well. I don't have a ready supply of spaghnum but I have plenty of perlite for general potting mix. I buy it by the 100 litre bag I get through so much.

@@davidb5255 it's all inert so it shouldn't be a big matter. I was just saying if you mix sphag w perlite it's easier to untangle roots and stretched the spahg. You can dry out your sphagnum and keep it to reuse. To expesive to keep buying it imo

Thanks that's very interesting. I've only ever had this issue with Darlingtonia, never Sarracenia. If you cut out the dead/dying then they usually survive but I did lose an entire plant once. I do get white feathery fungus or similar on Drosera seedlings and the compost which does seem to overwhelm them. I found out a bit late on the last lot that spraying with distilled water seems to knock it back really well.

Sorry but I don't know as I only have Android devices. I suspect the app is not sealable for iOS as it was only supplied for Android as a non-app store side loaded app package. Apple are quite picky about what apps are allowed on their store and prevent side loading.

I have a laptop as well. Please advise what the app would be so I can try that. Thank you very much. This was a gift with no instructions. I am really glad I found your video. Ross

In the description there is a link to the software bundle off Banggood. Inside that there is a Windows application in "SKU835176\3 8X8X8 light cube PC\3D8S_Alpha" which is mostly for designing new animations across the 8x8x8 layers but IIRC can also be used to select existing animations to run. You will need the PL-2303 USB to serial adapter connected from the computer to the programming interface of the cube. In that same software bundle are the drivers for thar adapter if your OS does not have them. The Windows app is less useful for general control as it has to be physically wired to the cube.

With regards the rear brace, I turned this around but it did not fix the issue of the brace rising up out of the side panel slot. I think I also tried swapping the two side panels, I can't remember now. I suspect that issue is due to the slots in the base not being vertical and so they don't hold the side panels vertical and the whole thing becomes a sort of parallelogram. Don't get me wrong I really wanted to like your stand, the mini figure plinth is by far the best of any stand I have seen. I also delayed posting the video till after I had made contact to give you a chance to respond just in case I had done something wrong or the stand I received was a dud. I then added an update section to the end of the video correcting my mounting mistake. However I still believe you have a significant design issues around where and how the stand supports the Falcon.

That's what I did, I went for the Wicked Brick stand, much better IMHO. See that review here: ua-cam.com/video/9HBB6xqJRNQ/v-deo.html

Hey, just checked your video after mounting. I agree with all your points and would probably prefer to pay more for the wicked brick stand (wish I'd seen this before!). Do you know how long it took for Unique Display to reply and what was the best approach for contacting them? Hopefully I can receive a refund on my item as I don't think it's fit for purpose, it's also cheeky they advertise the technic cutout leg holder but don't ship the acrylic out with that cutout on the piece! Thanks for the info

@@davidb5255 Thanks David, I contacted them through their website so hopefully hear back from them soon!

It's going to be an epic build, I timelapsed it down to 1h 45m from 19h 30m real time. Good luck.

Thanks, glad you like them. I just love sharing my passion and facination for them. When I sell them at markets I just love chatting to people about them, whether they buy any or not. The best is when you get young kids coming along all wide eyed and enthusiastic, and thinking back that that was me many years ago.

@@davidb5255 Indeed. I totally feel the same way. I've given plants away to kids from my church and theyre completely into them now. These are moments they will remember for life and grow up appreciating sarracenia on a higher level.

To be honest I have never had mildew in a Sarracenia, botrytis (furry grey mold) sometimes but never mildew, either black or white. Botrytis is not usually a problem on the pitchers as its easily removed, if it gets into the rhyzome its more of an issue. I suspect those spots are just discolouration as the pitcher dried out, maybe from the insects inside. As I said in the video I tend to only cut the brown tops off the old pitchers down to the green alive part as they are still photo synthesising for the plant. Interestingly I always thought I was the odd one out as so many people seem to cut all the pitchers off to ground level, dead or alive. But yesterday there was a video from California Carnivoirs where he advocated exactly what I do and left most of the tops on, ua-cam.com/video/nfziVqxginE/v-deo.html I had not even considered the benefit of leaving the dead traps on as a means to help protect the plants from frost. I only trim the dead off mine because in the UK we tend to get damp and modestly cold winters, not the crisp dry cold you get in some parts of the US. It's that damp cold that quite often encourages botrytis. Removing the fully dead pitchers keeps the crown more open and give better air flow to reduce the risk. Some pitchers I leave on as I just like the look, expecially the really tall ones, 30+", or the deep red ones as they keep their colour to some extent. The tall ones I often save, cut a slot down the side, clear tape it up and then take it along to markets where I sell my spares for charity just so people can see how good they are at catching things. People are always amazed that the pitchers can often be quite literally full to the top, I've even had some so full flies have been ablt to get out due to so many dead bodies in there.

@@davidb5255 I appreciate your repsonse David. I am still learning and your pitchers look just like mine when I clipped them. I seen most dead pitchers die back and look the same color brown all the way down, so when I saw all the spots that look like mold spores, I panicked. I just didnt want the mold to go down to the rhizome. Seeing your pitchers having the same spots all over gives me a little more comfort for next winter to leave them on from the green and down. As always, appreciate you being so friendly and informative.

Thanks. Been checking out some of your videos, you have some really nice Sarracenias. I love the dark coloured ones, especially the red ones, with the heavy veining. Your Leucos are lovely. Would have really liked it if you have captioned the names of the species in say your latest August greenhouse tour so I could go looking for some of the ones you had.

@davidb5255 thanks man, I will consider titling all future videos. But if you give me time stamps I'd be happy to give you any details you want!!

Hi, glad you liked the video. Personally I like to take the young Darlingtonia plants of when they have a few good roots to ensure that when their umbilical cord to the parent is cut they can survive. As such I tend to do it earlier in the year when its not too hot and so the plants are not stressed too much if they only have a few roots. It's usually quite easy to see when there are young plants which can be taken as they appear around the edge of the parent plants pot. If you carefully knock the parent out you will quite often find that the stolons have gone around the pot several times and then appeared. If the young plant does not have any roots I try and pin it down in the parent pot with a piece of bent wire to encourage it to produce roots before detatching it. Sometimes they grow up and out of the pot so don't get the stimulus to generate roots as they are not touching the damp compost. If there is no room I have sometimes taken the stolon runner out of the parent and pinned it down into a pot next to it, you just have to be careful when moving them as they are connected. Personally I don't take the young plants off the parent if there arn't any established roots as although they will probably produce roots it is a risk and any trap growth may suffer until the roots establish as there will be no effective water uptake. I have however taken stolon runners without any young plants growing off them out of parent pots and pinned them down in a separate tray to encourage the young plants to grow. That is how I got so many little Darlingtonia plants in the seed tray in the video, it was one or two long stolons which had gone around the parent pot several times. That I find works really well as there is no top growth to support so the stolon can take its time sending down new roots and sending up new growth points. Then its just a case of waiting until each of the new growth points have enough roots before separating it from the rest.

@@davidb5255 many thanks for such a comprehensive reply , that has really given me the confidence to tackle the darlingtonia. In fact a separate video on your success with darlingtonia would go down very well with carnivorous plant growers ! , many thanks David

@@terryw1795 Thanks for the suggestion, next time I pot up my Darlingtonia I will definitely make a video.

Do you heat the propagator? During the summer I put my cutting in perlite in pots in a propagator in indirect sun in the greenhouse. In winter sometimes I just have them in a tray on a windowsill, not even bagged for additional humidity. Our house is not the warmest so I have wondered whether bottom heating would help speed up rooting. They do still mostly root but it can take a while. I potted up only yesterday some cutting taken in June this year, some had masses of roots others not so many, all had good strong growths though.

Need a bigger greenhouse, or another one. It gets tight for space over the summer with the chillies and cucumbers. Glad your sarracenias are doing well.

I used to grow chilli's but couldn't eat them fast enough 😂....got loads still in the freezer 😮

Similar, made jams, jellys, sauces, etc. and still needed to freeze some last year.

Hi, below are the approx size of each plant as diameter x height x largest pitcher length in cm: N. spathulata x robcantleyi - 70 x 25 x 60 N. (veitchii x lowii) x robcantleyi - 85 x 25 x 60 N. spectabilis - 70 x 35 x 40 N. spathulata x ampullaria (speckled) - 70 x 30 x 0 N. spectabilis x bongso - 60 x 30 x 40 N. spathulata x ampullaria (green) - 130 x 40 x 70 N. burgidgeae x veitchii - 90 x 25 x 45 N. hamata - 80 x 40 x 80 Hope that is useful.

I would like to know which sizes you ordered from Oliver? Small or medium or like 6-9 cm size? Thank you for the info!@@davidb5255

Thanks for the advice. Nepenthes from my understanding, unlike sarracenia, drosera and some pinguicula, like it damp but not waterlogged which you might associate with a swamp or bog. I keep mine in a shallow tray with at most 1cm of water all the time, and the plants in tall pots. That way they stay most always but not too wet that the roots will rot. My soil mix is also very low in peat being mostly bark, perlite and moss, so this it's open and free draining. Interesting you talk about fungus gnats as they have never been a problem on my nepenthes or even adult drosera which do like it wetter and have a much higher proportion of peat in the compost and therefore organic matter for them to eat. They do something cause me issues for carnivorous seedlings but when I have my chili plants indoors over winter they are a right nuisance with them. The simple control solution however is to stick a few pots with pinguicula in-between them, they control the population and love the extra feed.

Nepenthes arent bog plants. Most of them actually like to dry out a bit between waterings

If you asked my wife I'm sure she would say that I have already monopolised too many windowsills already with Nepenthes and the rest, but I like them. I'm on the lookout for some more Nepenthes at some point, ones with different shapes or colours, I really fancy an Himata, oh so toothy. Your Judith Finn looks quite nice, odd how they can go through phases of giving up on their carnivorous habbits, my Linda sometimes goes months without a trap and then all of a sudden produces 3 or 4 really nice big ones. Would love to do some crosses but the only ones I've had flower together are Linda and Alata, conviniently they are female and male, but the seeds they produce don't look viable and the last time I sowed some nothing came up.

@@davidb5255 Thanks. My Judith Finn blooms regularly, but my ventricosa has never bloomed. I've of course daydreamed about crossing them since they are the only ones I have, but that seems like an advanced undertaking at this point. I don't even know how to determine male or female, though it's probably a moot point with the ventricosa refusing to flower. I often consider trying to cram just one more type of Nepenthes into my grow space, but it's pretty hard to choose with so many great crosses out there.

Have you tried increasing the humidity to encourage trap formation, either by misting or sticking it in a grazel tray with water in it? I tend to keep my Nepenthes in trays with ~5mm of water, not enough so their roots are sodden (I also use a very open free draining compost) but enough to make sure they don't ever dry out and also keep a humid air around them from the evaporation.

Thanks. I also love Sarracenias and have been growing them for probably 35 years. Some of the old Moorei likes ones may even be from some of my original plants many years ago. I have also tried various crosses over the years, picking ones I really like the colirm shape or size of and seeing what cones out. I've done a load of crosses against my Leuco red tube as she is just stunning, although a lot of those crosses are still quite small so can be difficult to see the final traits. I did end up with some really nice crosses against Rubra which I love for veining, some of those turned our really nice. It is interesting to see the variation you get, some look mostly like one but with hints of the other and then some are just perfect blends of the nice parts of both. It is a slow process though as mine stay in the greenhouse all year round, amazing how the tiny seedlings can survive brutal frosts. I'm getting a lot more into Nepenthes now, although Sarracenia are still my first loves. I always thought they were tricky to grow and needed special conditions, but there are plenty which are really easy to grow. Again I really like the variation in shape, colour and size. I've been meaning to do a video of all the ones in the house, but just not got around to it.

@@davidb5255 You've had a bit of a head start, as you've been growing Sarracenia for as many years as I've been alive! My Sarracenia cross was kind of a small miracle. I haven't had a lot of money to build a Sarracenia collection since figuring out how to properly grow them a few years ago. I won a giveaway from an online carnivorous plant nursery in 2021, and used the "plant points" I'd won to purchase a 'Feist Dog' Sarracenia, which is that nursery's term for an open-pollinated random hybrid. It turned out to have traits of S. leucophylla, alata, and oreophilla. Last year, my cousin gave me a division of Sarracenia x areolata 1631B from a large plant he had been growing for a few years. These two plants just happened to bloom together last spring, so I figured I'd give cross-pollination a try. After watching some tutorial videos on UA-cam, I pollinated my 'Feist Dog' flower with pollen from my new 'areolata 1631B', and was quite pleased to observe a seed pod forming after the petals fell away. About three months into development, a storm or animal snapped the flower stem at about half length. It remained attached, but just barely. Over the next week or so, it dried up, and I was sure my little experiment was ruined. After the stem and seed pod had turned completely brown, I removed and examined the seed pod. It was full to bursting with fully-formed seeds, even after the abbreviated development time! After watching a few more tutorials, I stratified the seeds in my refrigerator for 4 weeks. After stratification, I sowed the roughly 200 seeds in a 6-inch diameter pot under an LED grow light in my bedroom. 13 days later, every seed had germinated! They didn't seem too overcrowded at that stage, but six months later they looked like cat grass or a Chia Pet. When I removed them from the pot to separate them, I was blown away by how many individual plants were packed together, and how many pitchers there were between them all. The seedlings just kept coming and coming as I carefully separated them in a large storage container for examination. It became clear pretty quickly that I only had space to keep a fraction of all my seedlings, so I had to choose a handful of the best-looking ones to keep, and try to give away the rest to my cousin. I ended up keeping the 4 biggest, best-formed ones to continue growing indoors under the grow light in their original pot. I also kept the very smallest one to grow indoors as well, as it is outstanding for its miniature form compared to all the others. I found places to keep about 20 more of the seedlings that were large enough to allow identification of desirable traits, and was able to give the rest to my cousin who had just built a new bog garden. I have observed, as you described, that the majority of seedlings favor the traits of one parent, with tiny hints of the other. There are two seedlings that, while they are very slightly different from each other, both contain the most desirable traits from both parents. They are essentially the outcome I had imagined in my mind when this project was just a concept. They are just two out of two-hundred! The early identification of two nearly perfect seedlings is quite rewarding, but I look forward to continuing to grow out the remaining seedlings I kept to see if any other interesting forms emerge from the slower-growing seedlings. I have been growing Nepenthes successfully for far longer than Sarracenia. I have had a Nepenthes 'Judith Finn' growing in my bedroom under artificial light since 2007. I picked up a N. ventricosa in 2017, and it's been doing great as well. I've even made many successful cuttings from both and shared with friends and family. If I had more space, I'd have a lot more variety, as Nepenthes is my second favorite plant of all time.

How cold does it get in Canada where you are? Some Sarracenia are hardier than others. We had a very cold spell before Christmas which got down to -7 to -8'C. I lost 99% of my VFTs in individual pots outside and even in the unheated greenhouse but the ones in the planter which was also outside were OK. I also lost quite a few Sarracenia rubra which were outside in individual pots, the rhyzome got frosted, all the ones in the planter survived. I think the compost mass in the planter was the reason for all the plants in it surviving fine but others did not, probably because the smaller compost volume in the individual pots froze completely. You could try covering the planter when it gets really cold with bubble wrap, not sure if that would be enough, again rather depends how cold it gets with you. Failing that you could try bringing the planter in during the winter to maybe a garage, you can get pot casters which you place under a pot to make them easier to move.

The lowest it would get is around -15c at most, and I’ve seen people put a layer of mulch or pine needles on the with some sort of a tarp to stop light, I’m wondering if that would work for my plants. I have a sarracenia purpurea venosa and a sarracenia Farnhamii, and two other smaller ones I found at a nursery. The sarracenia farnhamii is about as tall as your average tall candle and the other smaller ones are the size of and iPhone, they are growing really well in the summer heat but I’m afraid when winter comes the will freeze. So I’m wondering if they could survive the winter in a bog container?