Відео

That, and factoring your fresh air exchange is important.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ I use an air purifier. Blows softly. Never had any contamination.

I'll give it a try one of these days, have my own system down that's worked pretty damn well thus far. Started using just straight coir also, no verm or gypsum in my sub or casing layers. Been working out even better that way.

Sounds about right. Happy growing!

That is thee best way to tell if your LC is contaminated, testing it on agar. If it doesn't come out clean, it is in fact contaminated. This was just a ball park of what your looking for, but not always true. Always always test your LC on agar before sending it to anything.

Yuup, you can get away with not doing a pseudo casing for sure, but in my experience it helps the surface conditions and helps to prevent contam by covering up exposed grains. But fot sure you can get away with not using one. It's really what the grower prefers with that method.

Ok a monotub is a low maintenance tekk to begin with. If your substrate is at field capacity, I'll make a video on what your looking for, meaning if your substrate is at the correct moisture, you shouldn't have to do much misting and will keep the humidity inside the tub alot better. Just set your tub up, lightly mist the sides, wait about a week until tub is fully colonized or white, then lightly mist the casing layer very light mist. Only repeat when it evaporates until pins show up, then lay off the misting until she's done fruiting. Harvest, then mist the cake pretty good, spot cover where you harvested and only mist if your casing starts looking dry. For the rest of flushes.

Need to clarify on that, mushies thrive off of the humidity not so much the moisture. Or humidity is needed more than actual h2O if that makes sense. Use a liner so the cake doesn't become saturated with water running down the sides because it will after a while. Only mist your tubs if the casing layer starts to dry out, instead of being a very dark brown almost black, it will turn a very light brown, that's when misting is needed. Any more questions feel free to ask. Good luck!☘️🍄☘️

Most welcome!

You can, I have found that leads to more contam issues, due to saturating the cake too much myself. Would prolly be fine for shoe boxes tho, but bigger tubs, I would suggest a liner. The cake if saturated too much will get all slimy at the bottom and such with too much moisture. Side pins and pinning from the bottom will be another issue without using a liner. I started off not using one and quickly found out that was not the way too go lol. But I use sterlite gasketed tubs so the moisture stays in those pretty well.

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Been really busy bro. I'll get back with you as soon as possible.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ No worries, Friend. Doing my first lemon tek on my newest flush….i will keep you posted. *^just saw your msg. Dude, same haha Later

Ok, that's one reason I dot not use shoeboxes, because it doesn't seem to me they would keep the humidity locked inside well enough. The mushrooms thrive in humidity. At the right temp and having the right humidity in the tub, it should hit you in the face when you open it. I would suggest the sterlite gasketed tubs, those are what I use and the 20qt & 32qts are fairly inexpensive and have worked really well for me.

Ok, that's one reason I dot not use shoeboxes, because it doesn't seem to me they would keep the humidity locked inside well enough. The mushrooms thrive in humidity. At the right temp and having the right humidity in the tub, it should hit you in the face when you open it. I would suggest the sterlite gasketed tubs, those are what I use and the 20qt & 32qts are fairly inexpensive and have worked really well for me.

Is it fully colonized when misting?

@@Myco_BlaineO_ yessir. I have the exact box you do. Maybe I’ll just put it in there without the lid. It’s fully colonized.

I mean the shoe box inside the Sterillite box. Maybe the gasket will do the trick.

Nice! I've tried the no casing tek myself but didn't turn out very well... to as they're own tho, if it works it works. Not a certain right way when dealing with mycology. Just what works best for the grower really.

As that could work I suppose, your mouth is full of contamination and would be afraid of that causing problems potentially.... I would not suggest that myself.

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Karo is corn syrup yes, sorry I didn't specify in the video. Not sure it works better, it's really just what you prefer to use honestly. I've tried honey and preferred corn syrup for the clarity of the finished product.

The corn syrup seemed to work a little better in my experience as well as to why I started using it. But, honey will work.

It doesn't matter what sugar source as long as you stick to _that_ source throughout. If you plan to work with agar, use the same sugar you'll be utilizing for your LC, or if you make drippy corn. Source does not matter, the mushrooms dgaf.

@@SirDydimus86 As I mentioned, it really just depends on what you prefer to use or what's available. In my experience, some strains respond better to different sugars. Different LC broths and different agar recipes.

Primordia are the actual pins sets of albino strains. The little white balls are what turn into the mushrooms rather than regular pins. Depends on the strain. Albino strains produce Primordia, non albino strains just produce pins ( basically just little baby mushrooms ).

@@Myco_BlaineO_ mine are purple magic

@@paulameredith4843 then they will not produce primordia, they will just pin with baby mushrooms lol.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ all mushrooms produce primordials..... its hyphal knots, primordials then pins. Primordials are just the white dots that form and turn into pins

Appreciate the positive feedback.

It's the simplest way to spawn to a tub, with no unnecessary steps. Fruiting Conditions = introducing 24/7 light>ing + more fresh air exchange. If your grain is fully colonized, it's ready for fruiting basically. Alot of videos you see mention to cover your fae holes for the first week when spawning to a tub, I have found that to be an unnecessary step and prolongs the process. Try to keep it as simple as possible and putting your tub directly into fruiting conditions is the easiest and best way in my opinion and works just fine.

Just text my phone bro, understandable. 317-417-2932. Getting a telegram set up right now and will have that available soon.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ right on. Will do ✌️

Respond to every comment as quickly as possible. 317-417-2932 is my personal number. As mentioned getting a telegram set up so I can have that going. Just send me a text and will shoot you my genetics menu.

I appreciate the positive feedback! Look me up on Facebook and send me a message for my genetics list! Trying to figure out a way to incorporate somthing into my channel. Need to get a website up and going it sounds like, alot of people been asking the same question lol. But greatly appreciate it and will work on getting a website up for everyone or a telegram etc. I'll keep you posted. But in the meantime Myco BlaineO on facebook and just shoot me a PM.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ thx for the response ! Ok, so here’s my deal…I’m sure we have all heard this line before-I don’t ever (mainly,) comment on UA-cam videos. That said, I don’t have FB, nor will I ever. No judgment, that’s just me. I will say this tho, I’ve pretty adopted your, simple, easy and stress free style. And obviously it works. Keep on keeping on ! If u have discord, or anything of the like-plz let me know. I’ve only done discord once with ‘myco geeky’ n I wasn’t impressed. Seemed like his followers were a bunch of snowflakes n I got blocked by peeps lolol Best, Deej

This video is for what you typically see if your LC is contaminated. Yes you should test on agar, but when innoculating with clean agar to begin with, your lc should come out clean, but hey, stuff happens. If it turns out looking like dirty pond water, there's no need to test on agar because that usually means contamination. Shouldn't look dirty, should be clear. That's what your looking for. Appreciate your input tho.....

I've had all types of lc on agar. Some of my most beautiful plates came from brown sugary mycelium. I've even used lc with clumps of debris, it was eating. Healthy as can be. Looked like a complete mess NOT CLEAR WHATSOEVER. Turned out great. If you wanna go by smells......cool. I guess If you wanna open the jar every 3 days and smell jus to contaminate it. But ALOT OF PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS IN THEIR JAR TO TRULY KNOW THE CONTAM LIMITS OF THEIR SPECIFIC LAB AND GROWING ENVIROMENTS. Best way to do this is experiment and test on agar. Not opinion, just evolution of our mycology methods.

It potentially could, but I would suggest if been sitting out in the open to not take chances. Could potentially ruin a whole tub if used. With mycology, it's best to not take a gamble like that Or could lead to disappointment and tub loss. You could boil it for a few minutes, then add Peroxide to ensure it is contam free. That's the route I would go at least. Hope this helps.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ for sure, thanks

Should have specified, that's my fault.

Mist down the sides and lid of the tub not building moisture on the sides. That's where the moisture comes on sides and lid of tub. If your field capacity is right then shouldn't have to mist sides and lid again until after first flush is harvested. No set level on how thick substrate should be, just as long as you have a substrate layer, grains in the middle, cover grains with a very thin casing layer but fully cover grains you will be just fine. Hope this helps. Appreciate the positive feedback.

To your temperature question, my grow room fluctuates quite often. I try to keep it anywhere from 72- 76° in the summertime and it gets a little warmer in there during the winter about 74-78°. Yes keeping your grow room/area at 72-75° is what's suggested for cubes, but not completely necessary. Lower temps will help stop contam to a point, but will also slow down growing in the process. In my experience if your tub is contaminated, it doesn't matter what the temps are. If your tub is fine, anywhere from 72°- 78° won't hurt it a bit. But don't want it any warmer than 78° if you can help it.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ awesome, thank you! Right my field capacity was a little bit on the wetter side because I live in the Mohave desert. As you can imagine it is very very dry here, and temps can get up to 125-128 in the summer. I am misting, I just shouldn't have to, and I don't want more risk of contam than necessary. I think in my climate I need smaller FAE holes and do something like you did, that's a great idea btw. I have them covered with 2 layers of m. P. Tape till colonized, then I'll take a layer off for fruits, this is more of a learning experience than I expected, but I like it.

@SocialDeviant_ I would suggest smaller fae holes for better keeping humidity in tub a little better. No need to take any tape off either. I send mine straight into fruiting conditions when I spawn to a tub. When researching you'll get you need to cover your fae holes for a week or two then take it off, this I have found to be an unnecessary step when spawning to a tub. 2 layers of micro pore tape is good and what I do and no need to mess with it from here on out. I try and keep it as simple as possible for everyone and no need to mess with fae holes whatsoever when spawning to a tub. Just be patient, only mist if sides and lid don't show any Condensation. When your casing layer is fully colonized, usually 2 weeks after spawning, give the surface of your cake a very light and fine mist so it shines if there aren't any little beads of water on surface of the cake. Doesn't need much. The evaporation of these fine beads of water help to induce pinning and will help your fruiting surface conditions for fuller flushes. Want to get a fine mister for this process. Only repeat when the surface doesn't have any beads of water on it, usually every 3 or 4 days. Hope this helps. Keep us posted!

Look me up on Facebook and PM me, I'll send you my genetics menu. Or text me @ 317-417-2932 for genetics menu.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ thanks I just sent a message

Most the reason I made this channel. Research on the subject constantly contradicts itself as well as any opinions you get. I usually just do about 2-2.5" on substrate layer, grain layer and then a very thin casing, but want all your grains covered when spawning to a tub for sure. But started using 32qt tubs also, this video I was using 20qt boys. It's alot of trial and error, but you'll get it! Appreciate the feedback and best of luck. Find me on Facebook and shoot me a message if you have anymore questions.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ requested 😌

You are most welcome, appreciate the positive feedback.

No windows in my grow room, that's why I use the lights I have. Run them 24/7, it's always bright in grow area. You can get away with ambient light, but when spawning to a tub I suggest 247 lighting.

Forget which strain this was to be honest it was a while ago, but usually get full or close to full canopies when caps open all the way up. Been experimenting with a few strains, few land race they call them ( just your basic cube brown cap n stem ) and some albino or exotic strains which are a bit more difficult to grow and take quite a bit longer to fruit. If you use a pseudo casing ( thin casing covering your grains when spawning to a tub ), should be about a week and will be completely white, that's when a very light and very fine mist is needed over the surface. Very little water droplets and at the right angle will look very shiny or glisten. These droplets SLOWLY evaporating off the surface will help induce pinning and give you a more even pin set on the surface of the cake.

Repeat that process every couple days or when droplets evaporate off the surface, no need to do it every day. You'll know when surface doesn't have droplets on it any longer and just repeat that process until pinning occurs or you see them coming in, very easy to spot. Let it do its thing and no more misting the surface is needed, just keep humidity up in tub by misting sides and lid and only mist sides and lid if they dont have any Condensation on them. After harvesting a flush, I usually give the cake a good mist add another casing layer or just hit the spots I picked from with more substrate and repeat the fine misting process explained in previous reply.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ thanks so much for the in in depth knowledge my mushroom friend.

If your field capacity is right with your substrate meaning has enough H2O, yes, but if it starts looking dry on the surface or casing layer give it a very light fine mist. You want little beads of water on the surface so it shines to help induce pinning, once pinning starts just make sure you have Condensation on sides and lid and will be just fine to get you through the first flush, then repeat the process after you harvest to prepare for 2nd flush.

That's why I use a liner so if water does decide to start pooling at the bottom of the tub, it doesn't affect or saturate the cake. Between Flushes I will empty excess water out of tub by holding the tub on the side tilting it into a mason jar using the corner. Make sure you hold onto the cake tho and be careful doing so, I made the mistake of not holding the cake and she came right out of the tub all over the floor.... so please be cautious if you do need to empty some moisture out of tub. Properly sterilize hands and such Also! Very important.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ awesome mate, thanks a bunch, I will head your advice 👍

I do not mix my grains with my substrate. I put a nice substrate layer down, you want at least 1 or 2 inches of substrate you can go 3 but not necessary. Depending on how much grain your using, I use about 4 quart jars per 32ml tub, so I will put e jars over my substrate, put a little bit more sub over first 2 grain jars I don't fully cover the grains just add a little sub layer, very thin, then add my last 2 grain jars on top of it, then add my pseudo casing layer very thin but you want your last grain layer covered, but just enough to where no grains are visible. That's how I prepare my tubs, so substrate/ grain/ pseudo casing basically.

Exactly, helps keep Condensation in your tub also so you don't have to mist as much either. Nice even air flow thru the tub, helps keep your humidity levels exactly where you want them. Appreciate the positive input!

Glad to help out! You are most welcome.

My Super Duper Liquid Culture Recipe! Lol, got a video on my channel for the recipe. Started fading away from LCs myself, started working with Agar more. I've had better luck with agar, have an agar recipe on channel as well.

I can't find that video. Did you remove it?

@dand7056 nope it's there, BlaineOs super duper liquid culture recipe. Let me know if you don't see it, I'll just send the recipe to you.

I love mine also! As am I my friend, absolutely love this model. Simple design, no rocker, adjustable psi setting, plenty big for what you need. Highly recommend for sure.☘️🍄☘️

The mycelium should never decrease after spawning to a tub, should always be increasing. I think this video was filmed only a week after spawning, about that much time for your pseudo casing to become fully colonized, or top layer in tub. That's when I will start lightly misting the surface, with a very fine mist, until it glistens, to help induce pinning. Repeat this process when it dries up, about every other day or every couple days, depending on fresh air exchange. As soon as you start seeing pins, stop misting surface and just keep humidity up in the tub, by misting sides and top of your tub.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ thanks, I think the rapid temperature decrease to 19C, could shock mycelium growth. Nevertheless other signs such like nice mushrooms smell, no pests and bacteria I see well. Probably it just need a little more time

I do not and will for sure make one! Anything from a half inch to a full inch will do just fine.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ Thank you

Doesn't have to be that thick, but with the size of the tub (20qt sterlite gasketed tub) and using a 5lb bag of substrate that's close to the height of your substrate layer you'll come up with. But, not necessary of course. Substrate layer should always be thicker than your grain layer/ pseudo casing layer if possible.

Great question! It's the nitrogen in the coffee the mycelium enjoys. I have found actual coffee grains has the potential for contam down the road in some cases. With the instant dissolvable coffee, you get the necessary nitrogen boost without the coffee grains being a pissible contamination issue that occurs sometimes unfortunately. The instant coffee is disolvable and the popcorn will absorb that nitrogen without any coffee grains in your final product. Therefore taking the potential coffee grain contam issue out of the equation but still giving you the nitrogen boost the mycelium enjoys. If that makes sense.

I believe these were Fiji but not 100% certain, it was a while ago. Sorry, just not wanting it to be the wrong strain, but am almost certain the strain was Fiji.

Depending on strain you'd be perfectly fine just using the coir and adding another casing layer, hydrating the cake of course and see what you can come up with! The cake will keep producing as long as it's hydrated and nutrients are still available. May not be much or worth it to most growers but I'm like you I'll let a tub ride as long as I can lol. To the filter I always say 🚬 haha. Good luck! Keep us posted!

hey im fairly new and about to spawn to bulk here in less than a week. My friend was also telling me about a pseudo casing! Then i found your video.. to simplify it, is it just an extra layer of coco coir over the grain/sub mix? or do you use any other specific substrate for the casing layer? i plan on using coco, verm and gypsum as my substrate

@vadkinsvlogs2577 yes, it is just a very thin layer to cover your grain layer, I have a video on simple tub set up, want to make sure grain layer is fully covered that's a pseudo casing when spawning to a tub. Using the same stuff as you use for substrate to do your pseudo casing layer. All the same stuff. Hope this helps.

@@Myco_BlaineO_ that makes a lot of sense, i didn’t know if pseudo meant a secret thing or not, i got some Amazonians and Leu Swamp Ghost going right now, it’s at about 95% right now so this week im gonna transfer! Im super excited, thank you again❤️🍄

Not condoned, but if contamination happens to occur ( happens to all of us ) it's possible to treat with Peroxide and possibly limp it through for a flush or at the very least a few fruits so it's not a complete waste. Just make sure you isolate the tub and keep it away from other tubs/grow area because it will in fact affect the others unfortunately. Just a little trick I've learned as I said to limp it through to get at least somthing out of it. Especially starting off it's very discouraging when contam pops up, but may not be as bad as one thinks if isolated and treated if caught in time. At least long enough for some potential fruits. Hope this helps! ☘️🍄☘️

Can you use hydrogen peroxide for just normal misting of tubs or would that stall fruiting.

Right, doesn't prove it's contaminated, but for people just starting off they don't usually have the proper equipment or knowledge to investigate the contamination any further. This was a video strictly based on visual signs of what is most likely a contaminated LC, to help those who don't have the ability to verify if it is in fact contaminated. If sterilized properly and innoculated properly and your jar starts looking like muggy pond water, it's usually time to toss and try again. Trying to help prevent any further damage the contamination might cause was the purpose of the video.

If you can't test your lc properly then you shouldnt be making lc. Yea this doesnt prove anything my guy, ive been doing this for around 13 yrs and have seen some really nasty cultures come out clean as fucc.. always test your lc or you're wasting your time, doesn't cost shit for agar and condiment cups. Not like you gotta have anything high tech 😂

Idk I'd spend the extra 10$ for agar and cups to test so I'm not wasting time, supplies and cultures. Alls I'm saying if you're scaled up that much to be making lc then you should have the money or proper testing equipment.

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@@Myco_BlaineO_ daha küçük bir parça agar agar kuluçka için yeterli olmuyor mu?