Відео

Maybe you should put a small hole in the mold for better release so there doesnt form an underpressure inside the mold so fast

All hail breen grub

Something to know about silicone. It adheres to surfaces much like paint. It will stick to materials with high surface energy. So basically if the material that you are using as a mold is easy to paint then the silicone is going to be hard to demold as it will want to stick the the mold. Couple of ways around this is to use a mold release, I would suggest MAN200 spray, or a ptfe coating or film, lastly you can make your mold from nylon or polypropylene (PP) filament if your printer can do them. I would say go with the mold release spray as you wont be using your mold to make a bunch. If using PLA as the mold you will need to coat it every time. Petg does well with one coat every 4-5 times of use. Also stop mixing your silicone to cure so quickly. Slow cure so you have a longer pot life to let it flow in the mold better. Vacuum chamber if you can. But keep going.

why tf do you have such low sub/view count? this shit is awesome

I'd recommend using some sort of mold release agent to help alleviate your demolding issues - for silicone I like to use a PVA based mold release, and a neat bonus is that it takes up some of the space between layers on the mold, so you also get less pronounced layer lines in your cast part

You inadvertently made the body of a Combine Advisor😅

good video, keep trying, and you will made the perfect exabot

let him cook 😏

guys, hear me out

Hello, Great job, I have the project to build one. Is possible to share your code, I would like to understand the main algorithme for legs animation. Thaks

It's not the first nor the last hexapod on UA-cam, but I want to say thank you for sharing your project and a bigger on for sharing the journey and putting the effort of editing all that material from over a year. Showing how you made the design, including the things to do better next time, is valuable for people who like to start themselves than watching a quick clip how someone put together a kit form Amazon or from China. I shall follow your second Tazer Technical channel as well. Also cheers for pointing out Assert robotics project. Suggestion - add his video to the resource list in your video description.

Set micro steps to bigger rezolution sttepers will move more smoothly and reduce vibration improving finish

The steppers sound like they're in full step mode. X16 will make them quieter and more accurate. Otherwise TMC2209 would be a solid choice. Hope this works out!

Music?

If you see the veritasium video they use some kind of interphase liquid on the wax block, maybe some kind of oil. Also, as a medical student, that machine reminds me to a kind of microtome, maybe you need smaller movements in order to succeed.

Cool idea and project. I think pushing the knife in can be a bit problematic, when cutting stuff by hand it usually gets a lot easier by moving the blade along its length. Someone mentioned a pantograph, I’ve been thinking about that for a while using my 3printer to control it. But I’ve never come up with a use for it. Maybe this would be a good match? Or just using your 3dprinter as the cnc with a spinning cutter and some way to increase the resolution in one axis to advance the blade in tiny increments.

Cool project, thanks for sharing! The blue wax blocks in the video clip at the beginning look like machinable wax. It's cheap, already cast into blocks, and machines very nicely.

If your goals is to make a machine to only cut that pattern, a Cartesian CNC is probably not the thing you want. I would see something more like a linear engine or a shaper. The issue mechanical here is that you are using a direct drive that doesn't have much precision to do a very precise task. If you are dead set on a Cartesian machine at the very least use pantographs to divide the movement of your screws into something minuscule. But custom kinetics sounds more adapted here. Using a pantograph pushed up by a roller or a pin attached to a radially slotted wheel to adjust de amplitude, letting gravity applying the carving force. A screw to advance the work is sound but it needs to be in a single direction to not suffer from the backlash. For that end, make the carving axis be at an angle compared to the advance so you only need to move a single axis and single direction as you pattern the work. And then once you machine is adapted to the task, you can even start to ask yourself the question, "why use 2 motors instead of coupling the advance to carve ?" and realize that you don't even need to have any CNC involvement here by having the motor that moved the carving pantograph also move a wheel with a link that ratchets the advance screw. But frankly that point is quite optional, it adds quite a bit of complexity while a stepper driven screw is plenty enough as long as the screen is only supposed to move in a single direction. There is also the issue of the wax itself not being adapted to what you are asking of it, but I have no good informed insight about that appart from suggesting you to contact people from the wax scripting community.

1:20 fusion 360 is wanting to charge me $2500 for a year

Maybe try with "hard wax" used for hair removal. It melts at around 45C and is harder than standard candle wax. Also I don't think this face method make real "flat" surface, as the razor blade kinda jumps up and down in this linear motion? Maybe try moving it a bit in cutting direction, and then back to release material, and back and forth?

really cool

Awesome job, find a glass building to climb & update this with footage of you at floor 20 😉

Hexapods Are soo Cool!!! give it Ai Lol!!! 🤣 Connect it with wifi to a Computer to Explore a forest and record interesting stimulus!!!

stl link pz

I would love to live in a place where a pcb costs 12 USD shipping included 😢 It’s minimum 30 USD for shipping, always.

Why not use an off the shelf remote control? There's expresslrs for example which is an open protocol

consider getting a pinecil (nice cheap soldering iron) also omnifixo is great (better helping hands)

You made me laugh so bad when the first result came out😂😂, but the improvement of the plating is so impressed! Your explaining of the iron charging and process of plating is the first video that I can follow up and feel can do coating by myself confidently. Really appreciate your explaining step by step. Looking forward your new updates!

I cant believe i missed this video. Awesome work! Designing, programming, recording, scripting, editing etc. Thanks for sharing your work. I have been designing a smaller as possible hexapod robot as a project for some studies. If u want i can share the cad with you. (I dont know how though) Greetings from spain!

69 Likes! Im sorry but i needed to like this video.

opensource??

Very nice project! I also find it very difficult to design in a way that allows easy iterations. Sometimes you need to start fresh, it's just part of the process. Thanks for sharing!

:(

hope you have a good retirement little robot!❤ i enjoyed this series very much!

Looking forward to v2. Thanks for the transparency. Consider ESPNow as a communication protocol between robot and remote

It's kinda sad he's going to retirement, but it definitely was a massive project. Great job on it and can't wait to see more😁

You can tap aluminium extrusions using bolts: it's not ideal (and you risk ripping the bolt) but for short taps it can be done. =)

😯😯💙💙

This is soo cool

This is actually amazing. So much work was put into this video. Great job!

This is what my electroplated parts look like, I have 0 clue how H3ndrik plates things so they're immediately shiny, it's kind of insane

Česká pošta není zas tak hrozná 🤣

Caution with standard threadlocker. I think it won't do anything to PLA but i have seen it very efficiently depolymerise PETG and HIPS, and it might do the same to ABS. Even the fumes not just the direct contact. Apropos HIPS, you can print it on an open frame printer when there's no draft. On an Ender3 you don't need fan enabled but on my DIY printer i set like 5% PCF because my coldend fan isn't leaking into the hotend area.

Jsem zvyklej koukat na podobny videa v anglictine a necekany "ku**a", "do***i" s lyncovanim cesky posty me vzdycky rozesmeje.

proč nepoužít ELRS přijimač na RC ovladani a měl by si dosah par kilometru :D Moc pjekný videa . puvodně sem přišel jen na electroplating ale už sjiždim všechny xD

Since you have 18 or more servos, and 6 legs, you may also want to try object oriented programming. It makes code maintenance a lot easier, although you may need to learn a new way of thinking. Basically you define let's say a leg class with it's own variables, constants, and functions it needs, and make 6 instances. It's like designing 1 leg, and printing it 6 times.

Nice project! Greetings from Poland :)

Nice work .

nice work man

This was definitely one of the better suggestions youtube has given me. Great work! Looking forward to seeing more of what you do :)