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I also tried to use my pressure washer in the same way. The big problem - was the 2-metre Deep End. The jet stream from the Washer makes it impossible to hold the Gun, when you are under water and trying to operate it! I tied my Gun to a Pool Pole (with Electrical Ties), and operated the Gun whilst stood above the Pool. To date, I would agree with you, that there is no better way to get rid of Black Algae. The pressure that is released can tear flesh from your body, and that's a real worry. Please set the Trigger to be permanently ON, and operate the Gun whilst stood outside (and above) the Black Algae that you are removing. I was really pleased with the results of the Pressure washer method. Greetings from Australia.

Thank you

I tried this - no effect. Mine is on 1450 lbs pressure washer so I might try a friend's more powerful one.

That electric kit was way too close to the pool edge.

So I'm not the only one!!! Wife called me crazy and now I'm vindicated! Power wash it and then over shock it. Get my Saturday back.

How strong was your pressure washer? I just tried this and it didn't get much up, but I'm wondering if it's too weak.

You are a genius!! Just add some granulated treatment and already suffering thinking about the brushing.. definitely I will use my pressure washer!! Thanks

I used the power washer a month ago, excellent suggestion, worked like a charm & saved me a ton of time. Thank you! One suggestion: do the bottom of the pool first then the walls because if you do the walls first all the Black Algae sinks to the bottom making it hard to see the spots on the floor.

This is brilliant. I've tried scrubbing with chlorine tabs and scrubbing with a steel brush for hours. This will save me time and effort. Thank you

Yep, been doing it with pressure washer for years. Steel brush? How? With scuba gear? After I do it, I shock the crap out of the pool and change the filter. I would have to fill my dirt with pool if I had to do it another way.

Thanks for the info

I don't think I'd have had the gurney so close to the side of the pool. If it fell in, you'd be electrocuted!! So without any warning from you about the dangers, I would say that's a really stupid idea!!!🤬🤬

You saved me a ton of work. Great idea. I jumped in the pool with the pressure washer handle. And the hose in the pool. Took me a couple of hours in a 25000 gallon pool. The brush would have taken me days!

What engine is yours?

Thanks for uploading. Was wondering why there was a noise related to this issue. Glad to know you experienced the same thing. Going to call my dealer and see if this is covered under CPO

This is what going on with mine.

I wish I had those dental picks. They would have saved me 5 hours of frustration. There is no way one hour for the job. It took me an hour to get just one of those clips off. My hands were sore and bleeding trying to get at those clips. Anyway, good luck to all! Oh, I have a 2016 2.0 liter turbo.

Jim, i don't know if this really works,hard to see any difference in the video, but i give you high marks for thinking outside the box dude, this will stick with me....... SWEET!!!

Ty

hi my 2013 escape 2.0 L has a P0456 code "small vacuum leak" i am wondering if this part can fix this code thanks a lot!

Thank you. Same issue on my 2015 titanium

you know you dont have to pick the clips out. they work the opposite direction. squeeze them from the top, and the sides spread open. practice on the new hose where you can see the action, before you've crammed your arms all the way the engine bay and cant see.

Thanks for your video sir. What was the noise like? 🙂 just kidding lol how much was that part?

Thank you! It was more difficult due those freaking clips and the last on was particularly hard to get to, but I did it and saved myself hundreds of $$$! I've only done very minimal repairs on my 2013 Escape SEL (like changing the battery, wipers, etc) and I as able to do this (with perseverance).

YESSSS!! You did help me! THANK YOU SO MUCH! EXACTLY what is wrong with my 2013 ford escape!

P144a code will this fix it?

Where exactly is the 4th connection? I tracked it and it looks like it is below the drivers side headlight somewhere. Do you have to get that one from the bottom?

Going to attempt this now. Thank you Jim!

I just did this to my mother's 2013 2.0l escape. Afterwards, the brake pedal is stiff like the vaccuum in the booster isn't working. Any idea what I may have messed up? In s sny part of this level line supposed to be connected to intake? Wondering if I inadvertently swapped the vaccuum with the evap connector over there since the clips are identical.

I just did it for 2013 Escape. Now she’s going fine and the code is gone. Thank you to your video.

Your verbal step by step process of removing the purge valve harness sure made it sound easy. Forget the two hour job and add the steps where if you happen to drop a tool in the process. Now remove the undercover panel to retrieve tools. Those connectors on the harness were a bitch to remove even when you trashed them trying to disconnect them using picks. Anyway, got the job done, took ME all day. Saved some money! Thanks!

Wow..i saw this vid but im not to skilled to do the fix..ford dealership in brooklyn charged me 700 for the fix..thanks anyway guy..

I have the same problem/code. Mine is just a 2014 ford escape SE. Does it gonna work?

Thanks for the great video! I took your advice and picked up a set of the "picks" before starting the job. They were invaluable. My 2013 2.0 FWD SEL Escape had not thrown a code, but it was becoming increasingly difficult to start after filling up with gas, so I did the repair. (at my last fill-up the engine cranked and failed to start FIVE times. It barely chugged to life while I was applying throttle on the sixth attempt) Problem solved. The part number is CV6Z-9D289 and the current version is "-S". (seems like they are constantly coming up with slight modifications to the part to improve it, I would presume) I tried removing the whole assembly without removing the wipers and cowl, but found that rear connection to be too awkward, so I removed the wipers and cowl. It only takes an extra 10-15 minutes to take off and 10-15 minutes to put back on, so it's no big deal. I took my time and the job took me 2-1/2 hours. If I was doing a second one, I would be closer to an hour. BTW I am the guy who tries to fill the tank to the top, to get the last little bit of gas in there. Apparently this could have contributed to the problem, so in the future I will fill-up and stop!

Awesome Info Jim!!! Thanks!!! Update: bought the part and installed it today, everything went smoothly. Thanks again Jim, saved me probably $200 in labor.

I have the same car, only mine when I put gas, does not turn on until the third time and sometimes throws air in the gas cap.

did you remove the evaporated canister also? if so how did you get it off?

Hi Jim, i have a 2013 ford escape 2.0L the check engine light is on and the code is P0451-power train Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor range/performance. do you think it will solve the problem if going to replace the purge valve?

No need to take the cowling, wipers and upper brake master reservoir off Removing the intake boot and piping will give you enough room between the battery and engine to remove the rear hose

What website did you order from with this item #??

Definitely don’t attempt this without those hooks. The top ones were semi-easy to snap off with a little screwdriver but that bottom one behind the wheel well is impossible

It helps to have little hands too

Jim, I have the same year, engine and AWD. Exact same symptoms you describe. Went looking for the part and came across some more escape owners saying it could be the solenoid & canister which on our AWD models requires dropping the whole rear subframe. Did you see this same info and if so how did you isolate to the purge valve part under the hood? This video and any reply are greatly appreciated.

Thanks it really helped me

Omg life saver just got off of the phone with the dealership who wants to charge me $500 for this repair. Not today!

Jim thanks for this video, looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend!

The information I read that the purge valve is located in the rear of the car and the subframe needs to be disconnected and rear brakes pull off in order to reach it

I have been having this issue for a while plus it wouldn't start after I filled up the gas. I just did this fix and all is well now. Thanks for the great video!

Thank you for this video. This was the problem with the love of my life's 2014 Ford Escape. It had all the symptoms you had stated above and once I changed out the purge value, it was completely back to normal.

This video saved the day! Thank you so much for making this video! Fixed my problem right away!