Відео

I need to try to make a couple cases for the Sierra. What type of aluminum should I belooking at? 5000 or 3000 series? Obviously it needs to be bendable to a tight radius, but also be sturdy. Any suggestions?

I so enjoy watching all of your videos, Bruce. Yes, I'd like to follow along while you build the KAT2, especially the toroid winding. Keep the videos coming! 73 de KN8N

It is 1:30 AM where I am when you’re calling CQ. I guess I will need to set me an alarm clock to wake up in the middle of the night and check reverse beacon or have HamAlert notify me. Lol.

It is 1:30 AM where I am when you’re calling CQ. I guess I will need to set me an alarm clock to wake up in the middle of the night and check reverse beacon or have HamAlert notify me. Lol.

All you need to do is check the FT8 frequency on a band to see if there is any hope of making a contact. Yep, careful you don't lose parts. I have a kit here that is partially assembled but I've lost a couple of connectors. They have to be here somewhere, the question is which where are they?

Rusty just does not sound a nice as your K2’s operating CW.

So interesting, you're talking in Morse yes? What are you saying? And how does that Morse key you're using work?

Ok just worked out your call you still hoarding all the used elecraft gear it's scarce in the UK have fun building that atu

I used a workout resistance band to get a good grip and take off the balls… I also just changed the battery, no soldering ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ worked for me. Thanks for the video! It gave me confidence to tackle this project ❤

I noticed everyone seems to be playing radio around 80 meters. I checked rbn on 20 with 35 wats cw, and it was going 1000 + miles!

Interesting idea, though I won’t be doing it to mine. What I have done though is to stretch a cut section of bicycle inner tube round the outside of the tuning knob. That makes it easier on the fingers and can be removed without any effect on the knob. Obviously a tube from a MTB, rather than a racer. There is a small seam on the tube, but that can be sanded off.

I just made the plunge and ordered the Japanese version after doing some research. Apparently the main difference is that there is a single 10 ohm 1W resistor on the 100V power board, instead of two 300 ohm 1W resistors on the 120V version. I did an image search for the power board, and found the page for it on Hakko's US web site. It shows a picture of the US board which clearly has the two 300 ohm resistors on it. This controls the pump power, resulting in a higher pitch for the 100V version running on 120V power. I checked on YT to see if anyone could confirm this, but there's not much talk here about ordering the Japanese version. So I just now ordered one on Amazon, and a few 300 ohm 1W resistors and will try it out later in the week. Of course I'll use it for an hour or two first to make sure it does the farty properly before I mod it.

I have one DSW 40. I just got a qrp wattmeter and was surprised to see only one watt out. Maybe I need to remove a turn or two on the toroids. What power do you get? I love the sound of the rig on rx / tx.

Hello I said it before now we know where all the K2,s are hiding lol

I love all the K2s. You could put them on a "lazy Susan" & rotate around to the K2 of your choice. 73 de K5AVJ

Digital is my guess if no noise blanker, with SSB.

Glad it works, certainly it’s very clean. No video I’m afraid, but there are photos of my completed QMX+ and ongoing QMX builds. Search for ‘belowred’ and my call sign you should find the two albums if you are interested. I’ve been cryptic as I have replied before and YT deletes the comments. Some anti spam algorithm I assume. Cheers Nick G0OQK

One can never have too much radios in the shack 73 Nic OO4M

So I believe the OP1 filter actually means [OP]tional Filter 1 - uses the KSB2 filter, which is very open relative to the CW filters. I think I read that when I had to do a realignment of the BFO settings for all filters when I wanted to change my STL to 550 Hz.

Another E-Bay find?

I hate this channel. It has forced me to buy a Norcal40, a Sierra 40A, a K2 and parts. Most expensive YT viewing yet.

Hi is that rusty icom I can hear in the back ground

Just what you needed another K2. Still just the one here. Yours came with a felt washer fitted behind the VFO knob, but it’s now somewhere on the floor. 73 Nick G0OQK

Were you able to get it fixed?

I Just built one, its seems like its working. --... ...--

A ham an internet connection and a credit card 😆 I do the same thing. BTW. That was a good deal!

I have one and I added a small fiberglass pole in the end to have something to clamp to for antennas. It did not add much weight and I use for portable work.

That looks a tidy bit of kit Bruce. I’ve got a Clark SCAM 12 military mast, which I haven’t used since our last house. It’s a three man lift, I much prefer yours. I do have a lighter clansman 5.4M mast, but that does need to be guyed. Best wishes for the new year. I’m away at the moment, but I have a new QMX mid band kit awaiting my return. 73 Nick G0OQK

Trying to think like Styropyro I'd say your next logical step would be to try the microwave.

Boil in water

Have you tried throwing it out?

It looks like the rubbing it is just moving the blobs around a little bit. If you're desperate I suppose you might be able to work them around so the display is at least somewhat usable, but I would agree replacement is the proper repair.

No room for this antenna at my QTH, but I look forward to seeing how it works for you. Ken N0HRL

What causs that to happen?

Have you tried heating it up with a hair dryer.???

Didn't know I was taking an ink blot test when I clicked watch 🤣

I have seen these separate like yours in test equipment.

Rorschach.

Why didn’t I ever think of that? Thanks for sharing! 73 de NV9Z

Was just trying to figure this out. [F] it is. the 0 is hiding on rate.

I'm looking forward to hearing it... but it might make your CW sound a bit odd 😈

Btw this took me less than 30 minutes from the moment it arrived. Congrats. Lol ❤

You spelled Pedal wrong in the title.

R26 is not in later board releases per the 40B build group. Also, when measuring inductance with a meter, short the leads together to net/calibrate the meter. Then measure the inductor.

For those following along, this is "The Chef of the Future" reporting that R26 is redundant and omitted on the later versions of the 40B. This comment circa 12/23/24.

Thank You for this video. I finally got my mod to work. It was a used Japanese model off ebay. This is the only video I know of with the correct information for those models.

Most likely if fuel pump is good, pcv is good, problem is purge solenoid or the hose.

I personally believe it’s somewhere with the transistor that mute the receiver. It seems like it doesn’t make that click after you start sending if you would’ve sent QRL faster it would not click between the characters, but the gap between the characters I think is too long and makes that Click. I really think it has to do with that part of the circuit. Since there is no audio output from the Kia for side tone. I don’t think it’s part of the audio. Just a guess on my part though… Have enjoyed this line of videos.

measure the voltage across the speaker I think you are getting a voltage spike making it click. maybe a decoupling capacitor on the audio output is required to kill the spike.

In the notes section of the KC1 manual, it mentions that the KC1 sidetone is ‘floated’ between characters to minimise thump. It then goes on about ensuring that there is a high impedance path to ground on the sidetone output. I’m not familiar with either unit, but this might be a path to explore. The KC1 sidetone can be muted to allow use of the rigs own sidetone, but becomes active again in command mode. Cheers Nick G0OQK