Відео

New truck eh

I posted the link to the recall notice below for anyone interested. The 3 ton # 56373 stands were replacements for the initial recall, then those ended up having to be recalled due to a welding defect. images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-56371_56373_61196_61197.pdf

Great video ,thanks d.👍

Nov 2024, watching this video before I do clearances on my 1098SBK 😂

I wouldn't use either of those.

Great video by the way. You’re very personable and evolved as a human and gentleman

One question, I have a 250r of the same year, and is it normal for the engine breathing hose to be wet with oil? or is something wrong with the top?

Really enjoyed this video. Nice and clear explanation.

Super, super gracias

What's the name of the book, my friend?

I need to do it for my s2r 1000 only halfe as difficuld i recon but its also my first time it stresses me the fuck out alone to inform myself about it

I've got a question: shouldn't the shim measurement been done with the timing belt on? I've heard that it will make a difference since the engine works of course with the timing belt on and without timing belt on the cam wheel the measurement can be quite different

Thanks mate

Thanks mate

Super

do you have the specs to put the belt tensioner tester to like Mass Span and Width? thanks

Appreciate you making this video. This was one of the things I've been dreading to get done, but the video really helped demystify it and it actually feels far more do-able now. Thank you.

Theres two nipples on the RHS bottom of the tank that connect on the downstream side to a 2-into-1 (Y-shaped) hose that goes from both of those nipples to the bottom of the bike (inside the fairing). On the upstream side of both those nipples , there are tubes that run inside the tank (buried in the plastic tank shell) and connect one nipple to the filler drain (next to the fuel filler cap plug) and the other nipple to a tiny tank air breather hole. The filler drain inlet is obvious next to the filler plug (usually blocked) . The important one is the tiny tank air breather hole (for equalizing air pressure inside the tank as fuel empties). This is located on the fuel side of the filler cap O-ring seal. You can see a small black hole in the white plastic tank liner just below where the O-ring seals at 5:50 on your video. Firstly you need to ensure they are both clear and functioning before you start this process and Secondly - you need to ensure you don't block either of them up with tank sealant in this process. When they are clear you can easily blow through both with your lungs and a small bit of plastic tube. If blocked up ( usually at the nipple end) use a small (say 1.5mm drill bit) through the nipple end to slowly and gently clear them. While you have gone to all this effort may as well change the fuel filter and fuel pump flange O-ring seal. For the fuel filter change you will need an Oetiker stepless ear clamp kit ( cheap from Ali Express Ebay or Amazon) with special pliers and new clamps. Now that's another story.

Thanks for the video! You did an amazing job explaining everything! One of the best Ducati videos I've seen. You didn't leave any detail out that would leave someone confused ! Thanks again will be helping a friend do this job!

I said it before, and I’ll say it again: never stop making there (pretty please)!

My 1098s recommends shell

Late to the party on this one, but an absolutely outstanding job breaking this down and documenting it as thoroughly as you did. Bravo! 👍😎

Utmost respect man. Really clean job right there

cagata mostruosa, come rovinare un capolavoro di moto sforacchiando qua e la....😪

hey man I know you probably dont own the bike any longer, but for how long did you use this for and how did it hold up? Thanks

UA-cam algorithm trying to remind me I need to tighten my chain xD

Hi Guys From an old Grey Biker FYI coolant usually is good for at least 4 yrs. You change coolant based on Ph value . Use coolant Ph sticks to determine acidity . Prestone Violet for euro. cars is a good choice . The corrosion package is meant for Hi Performance European cars Cheaper alternative . Better to flush with new coolant than with water , your diluting the new coolant with pure H2O lowering the boiling point Done thanks

Is it just those two side filters or is there a big one in the box under the tank

Thanks for posting with so much detail-just bought a NOS 695 tank for my Duc and am planning on doing this.

Thank you from France. I let you going on yours explications.

Very informative video! Thanks!

Wow... young man, you did an amazing job with this video!!! I tip my hat to you. I just bought my first Ducati (2016 Multistrada Enduro) and I am planning to tackle the servicing myself, especially now thanks to your excellent resources!!! I assume the 1198 motor in the Multistrada is very similar to your bike and it should be a breeze - thanks to YOU! SUPERBE!

awesome video!

Donde compro el libro

Hola hermano donde compr los cnterner de shims

Do you mean to say “5 Newton metres”

You could have used the same technique from the overfill on the radiator. Sucking out the residue radiator fluid on the bottom of the radiator before you went with the flush., by draining with that extraction pump.

GARBAGE!!!

Do you still have the 1098? I found your videos over three years ago, when I purchased my first Ducati. These bikes really are, a labor of love. I don’t think I could ever sell mine.

You can use it to hang your self I’m dead lol

Also gonna need a corona to complete job

Ganz Phantastisch, unabhängig davon das ich kein Englich kann :))) Gratulation !! ++++++++

Very good video 👍

Hey curious on what length you used? I am trying to get one for my 848 and since they basically have same chasis and everything, I'm wondering what lengtht he shift rod is?

Hey thanks for the video. Off topic question, did you upgrade your starter wires to copper? How does your 1098 start so fast? I know these bikes always sluggish to start. I ordered my HICAP wiring kit from Motolectic just waiting for it to come in.

if it knocks like it's broken, it means it's fine

Thanks for the video, gave me the confidence to replace my own seals. The manual is pretty terrible... I also read some of the comments and I hope my experiences can help: 1. I was having trouble with my rebound settings not getting enough clicks. This happened when I twisted the adjuster nut fully onto the damper rod before installing the cap (I only had 3 clicks on one fork this way). After much trial and error I got 20 clicks on both forks. At the standard setting of 12 clicks they now both stand 2.5mm proud of the body. The weird part is that I had to set one nut 12mm from the top of the damper rod, and I had to set the other at 11mm. If you are guessing, I'd say go for 11.5mm first. By the way, I disassembled and re-assembled both forks with the rebound and pre-load at their lowest settings (fully CCW). Since the rebound settings in my case seem to differ for each fork, I found that it's possible to undo the cap without touching the rebound nut with a wrench. I used my spring compression tool which has flat ends on the handles that screw into the spacer holes. These gripped the nut while I loosened and removed the top cap. Now you should be able to measure the stock distance for the rebound nut on your specific fork. I only wish I had figured this out beforehand. Shame on Ducati for not giving a spec. 2. Again shame Ducati not to spec an air gap for the fork oil. I decided to clean out 1 fork completely and added 440cc of oil with an automotive syringe. The air gap with the outer tube fully down and no spring installed (so only the damper rod) came out to 17mm. This was measured from the top of the outer tube with a fork oil gauge and the fork being perfectly level. 3. Another shame on Ducati for not mentioning the torque spec on the damper rod installation bolt. I went with 23 Nm and some medium locktite because the MT-09 2021 / Z900 2017 / Hayabusa 2021 manuals all call for that. If it's good enough for a Busa, it should be good enough for an 848. 4. The manual says that you need to twist the top cap onto the rebound nut at 30 to 40 Nm. However, it didn't take much force to undo it and most manufacturers spec this to just 15 Nm. I also found it really strange they are so exact in the torque spec list, but here give a huge gap of 30 to 40 Nm. So I decided not to trust that and go with 15 Nm. Basically just 'snug' if you don't have a long 32mm socket.

nice, helps alot. id love to see more for you 1098 . did you have to fill the coolant tank at all after filling the rad?

Hey, do you know how to flash the computer to race mode for example and do you have a video for the. Btw your video was great and well don’t for the front seals

Great Video. What is your experience after many years using that quickshifter? I always think about to install one. But i'm reading so many bad things about damaged gear boxes and so on. How is it working on your Ducati?