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Jackson’s Mining & Outdoor Stuff
Приєднався 10 кві 2023
The Beer Forge Melted!
Who knew concrete could melt?! I did use refractory cement and not polyurethane base...or so I thought.
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Відео
The Beer Forge!
Переглядів 62421 день тому
Finally finished The Beer Forge! This will be used as a smelter to melt down small samples of ores and materials.
Used engine oil smelter project update
Переглядів 993 місяці тому
A full video of the finished project will be uploaded soon, along with a list of materials used.
How to find gold tailings and mine information
Переглядів 4444 місяці тому
Using these sites below will help you be able to research and find forgotten mines, mining areas and mineral recordings. Apps used: Mine Locater Map onX Hunt Sights used: www.mylandmatters.org/Maps/ClaimsAz/GetMap www.mindat.org
Part 2: processing copper ore & exploring native American caves
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Edited by YouCut:youcutapp.page.link/BestEditor
Finding Gold & Silver in abandon mine dumps
Переглядів 3,8 тис.Рік тому
Edited by YouCut:youcutapp.page.link/BestEditor
Part 1: Processing copper ore
Переглядів 2,6 тис.Рік тому
This is part 1 of how to processing copper ore.
Fly Poop Gold in AZ
Переглядів 181Рік тому
Went gold panning in the Agua Fria river near Phoenix. Found the smallest pieces of gold known to man. But hey, at least I made a video
Finding Native American Pottery in Arizona
Переглядів 118Рік тому
Finding Native American Pottery in Arizona
Ya last time i checked concrete dosen't melt into plastic i say you give that Amazon review a half a star😂
Its probably Chinese concrete. China is known for extremely poor quality concrete, where the manufacturers cheap on ingredients, and it does not meet spec. There are tons of issues in China with buildings where people can break the concrete apart with their bare hands. In China they call it "tofu dreg" construction. It seems you got some of that concrete.
China is superior in every way but go off
Hopefully you can find a better way to atomize your fuel better. Seems like you are having too much fuel coming out as droplets. I would think it would be much better as a super fine mist because your cruicible was soaked. Doing good though i like your design.
Thanks! Yeah, I bet you're right. I think the main problem is just me being too impatient. I think I'll also add another air compressor to push through more air, and that should also atomize the fuel better too...maybe. The one I have is just a small 5gal air compressor
@OutdoorStuff216 that might work. You are doing great, gonna have it working perfectly in no time
Thanks dude! 👍
Keep innovating, you are doing great!
What a great video! It’s so easy to understand!
where did you find this?
yeah lithium battery and electric motor use copper sir
wow and zamzam water
Also, you need to roast copper sulfides before you process them further by leaching or smelting. Otherwise you wont get copper out as it is strongly bonded with sulfer and you have to turn the sulfides into oxides to grt the copper out. Roasting releases very dangerous sulfur gas so get a good mask. If roasting the first seems to much of a work l. You should use borax, soda ash, silica and carbon to get a good smelting result. silica bonds with iron to form slag and soda ash removes sulfides but this makes a very thick slag that doesnt move even if it is melted so borax comes into play here to turn the melt very liquidy and flowy. Sorry forget the right term to use instead of liquidy and flowy while writing this comment.
Thanks for the input 👍
you can make 2 forge burners that are way more simpler, cheaper and time efficient to make at home. And instead of the type of furnace you're making you coyld make a more effective furnace buy getting a drum with a bigger diameter. Line it with 2inches thickness of ceramic wool or kaowool, 1 then another do another lining of 1 inch thickness with fire bricks, they are white. Very light and porus. And then finally top everything with refractory cement. Give it a day or 2 to cure and then run the burner at low flame init for 40 50 minutes. Once every thing is cured and dried, you can reach 1100 degree Celsius in about 15 minutes with just one of those 2 propane forge burners. This will save you a lot of time and lungs because waste oil has very bad smoke when it burns. Also the method you are using would work with diesel, i dont think waste oil would work with this kind of nozzle. Waste oil is very thick and has alot of crap in it which can clog the nozzle. There are specialized atomizers made for waste oil, you can get one of those. Im doing the same thing as you, refining copper and stuff and im a beginner aswell, just sharing the knowledge i got from learning and experience. If you wanna know in detail how to set that furnace and forge burners up. LMK, be happy to help.
Out of curiosity, how are you going to separate all the soot and tar from the burning oil? I would think that having it directly into the smelter would make it build up on the inside... I'm no expert by any means, but i recon you wont be able to get it hot enough, with enough oxygen, to burn everything 100%. I suppose you could really pressurize the air to force in more oxygen. Super curious about how this turns out tho. Also, be sure to seal the kaowool before you fire it up. That will absorb a ton of oil and also release cancerous fibres Also, is there a purpose to preheating the oil after its mixed with air? Rather than before it enters the mixing chamber? You might (once again, talking outta my ass) have more flow because the oil will be thinner by the time it hits the air, rather than after
So I do realize it's going to build up crap as the oil burns. I could try to filter it, and maybe I will in the future, but I want to have a burner that can run on several different fuel types. Plus, I want to see how well it does with straight used engine oil. I will be coating the Kaowool in the fireproof concrete. The reason why I want to preheat the oil is to help it burn better. I have thought of preheating it before it disperses, but again, I want to be able to use different fuels like diesel...and I don't want it to blow up. Also, I might add gasoline to the mix (I do know gasoline is explosive & I know how to handle it) to help the oil to ignite better and get up to heat faster. Hopefully, this makes sense. In any case, I'll be showing the whole process in the next video. Thanks for your input and questions. Let me know what you think about the next video when it comes out. 🤘
@@OutdoorStuff216 you seem to have a good head on yer shoulders, i will wait patiently for the next video. I love seeing people try shit that may or may not work and problem solve to make it work :)
Hey thanks dude! Yeah me too
Not bad. Hope it works great
@@garrettmillsap Thanks! Me too...
Cool, info! Thank you!
@@dirkfrazier9779 Totally 👍 thank you
How do you find gold tailings?
I use several different websites and maps to find old abandoned mines and their tailings. I'll be posting a video about it soon, where I'll go into detail about it.
@@OutdoorStuff216 Looking forward to it!
Absolutely incredible
im looking to do the same thing. look into the froth flotation process. seems easy enough to jury rig something up that would be worth doing instead of trying to go right to the smelting process. electrolytic separation would also remove any final impurities from the after smelted result. hope to see more of this dude! seems like we're to only 2 of our age group that find this stuff cool or interesting lol
Thanks a lot for the tip! And yeah you’re right, not many people do this anymore.
Nice Gold Jackson👍 I like your work. Cheers Kev
its always a good day when you go gold mining.
days!!! 🤣🤣🤣
What do you know about African bee's in Arizona?
Cool
SO glad to see younger guys getting into mining! You're definitely on the right path, especially when it comes to researching and investigation. PRO TIP: If you find "bat bars", you're onto good gold! 😉 Also, label, and preferably mark via gps, ANY and ALL of your sample bags! It'll save you heartache later. I'll be making a video on that soon...since I learned that lesson the hard way, lol! Liked and subbed!
Thankyou very much for the tip and subscription! I’ll definitely do some research on bat bars
Sooo… what’s the black stuff?
I’m fairly positive it’s oxidized manganese and pyrite. I’m going to crush some of the samples with the lager pockets of black because from what I read the manganese and pyrite (once oxidized) will leave gold. I’ll show it in one of my next video’s
I was saying that out loud when watching..."Manganese Oxide!" You had some good pieces there, and you'll catch on quick, especially if you can find more pieces of that wire gold you showed in your pan in the beginning of the video...nice gold!
@@OutdoorStuff216 good to know can’t wait to see the video
How old is that back pack ?
I’m not sure how old but I bought it for $20 a while back. It’s the best backpack for my prospecting trips because of its durability and capacity.
Hi Mate, just found your page. watching from Australia. ..cheers.
Well thank you very much for watching
I am also doing that.found a tailings dump consisting of Chalcopyrite and Bornite,however it is quite mixed in with this other rock that is black,think it's Cobalt ore🤔 +1 sub 😊
look at the pyrite with a loupe and if the gold colored mineral is in cubes it is pyrite if not you may have gold
I was actually thinking that and I’m going to do some tests and show what I find in the next video
That to me was very interesting. I have found some copper ore in copper harbor MI some years ago. Good luck with all your copper collecting !
Thanks!
Do you share your locations?
No but these are the online sights I use to find abandoned mines and tailings. They are really great for re-searching your area for mines www.mindat.org/loc-3293.html www.expertgps.com/data/az/mines.asp Also, to make sure that the area is public and not privately owned you can use the on X hunt app to double check.