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I'd never done this before so any advise shared is good for whomever is going to fit of these. Thank You

So happy this helped you. Over the past 3 years I haven't heard one sound from it and it was super fun to see how my old kitchen looked. I've done some major work since then and really almost forgot what it was like to about to go to sleep and hear that gurgling noise. I think the manufacture doesn't say do this is because it's a drain and they are afraid that people may not put the loop in to keep the sewer gas from coming up into the RO system. The same can be said for the dishwasher vent loop too so I don't see much difference. Just make sure you have a good sewer side vent so it doesn't come back up into the system is the key here. I've been fine over these 3 years so I'm sure you will be too. Thank You!

The bottom of the arm, under the main pivot, is a ball socket. It just floats as it were and it really does not attach so it can rotate. It is a rod that connects to the main pivot under the chair and goes into the pump arm at the bottom - just a hole that accepts the ball on the end of the little under rod. If you'd like I can make you a short video and show it as it is hard to describe. I don't mind at all. The chair is in my living room now and it just a few feet from me. Hope that helps and let me know if you need more detail. Thanks!

@@bobeaseshop9389 that would be amazing. I know I am going to have to fabricate something. What length is the rod?

@@senorevan Howdy, I made a video this morning and it is posted. I think it will help you. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/w5j8gTXYwnI/v-deo.html

Thanks for the view

I love doing things like this exactly because of the hope of helping others. Your comment made my day. Thank You

All of this still works great. It is a nice set up.

Thanks for this. I've never had anyone else ever shave me so this is good to know.

And I've seen guys just get a free app for their phone for this! My first navigation system was from Alpine with DVD drive, three electronic boxes, a big ole screen and it took me all day to fit it to my car. It cost $3,500.00! I had to find the speed sensor wire, brake wire and all kinds of other wiring. Now that's just a app too! I had several $500 Garmins. I do still use my FLIR and love it but you are right about how tech marches on. TV's... all of that. Thanks for the great comment.

Unreal that you asked me this now... I have the thing apart to bring it up to the house so it was easy to see as it's been 2 years since I did this. There is a end cap on the other side of the handle rod and it has a cam. The cap is held on with a 1/4 pin. Just knock the pin out and the whole assembly should slide out. I think I'm right on this. Don't get too hard on this as the metal is not strong.

Thanks. I like getting comments on older stuff as I can say how it's working and this is working well.

I Just Ordered The Amplified Version With Cable Included. Hopefully It Pulls In More Channels For Me As Well.@@bobeaseshop9389

They haven't done a thing to it since I did this work but it about to fall apart anyway. Funny you commented on this as it was just about an hour ago I could hear it going down the drive.

Howdy, I just went to the barn and looked at what I did and all I did was make some thick rubber pads at the bottom and used the bracket to hold it in place on the sides. I more or less trapped it. Between the lower pads I made, side brackets, the upper panels and the hoses it holds it in place just fine. I also took the OEM radiator set up out of the 1957 GMC (years ago) I've had for years and I did somewhat the same thing with an aftermarket radiator. I couldn't fit the upper bracket on that truck - so I didn't an put it in the parts bin. In those days they bolted them six ways to Sunday. On some modern cars they just slip in and use 25% of the hardware they did then. Mine are very secure but with less stuff. It's just hard to spend $800 on an OEM radiator re-core when a decent one is out there for $199. I hope that helps. I'll have Bonnie on the lift for an oil change in the coming weeks so let me know if you want photos or I made do an update video on this. Thank You for the question!

Hi. Yes. Thank you. I have ‘63 GP and I’m installing a factory sized aftermarket aluminum radiator. I don’t have any original brackets so I will do pretty much everything you did. Thanks for responding to my question. If you do get the car up on a hoist and you don’t mind take a picture of the side brackets you used on the bottom corners. No rush and only if you think of it. Enjoy your Pontiac.

Howdy, I made a video today of how it look/I fit it. It posted a few moments ago. I hope it helps and if you need anything else let me know. It went in very nicely and I hope you don't hit problems. I don't recall too many problems but my mind was on breaking in the rebuilt motor most of the time. I did a little walk around too. Bobby

Dang I just got this. I only know these castings are not very good. I know there are others that know far more about the workings of these chairs than I do. I hope you figure out what it is and fix it. Thank You

I don't know and I guess they change contracts every so often. I had a Bendpak for years when I had heavier trucks and never had any problems with any part of it.

Yes. Nothing real heavy either.

The wildfire bearings were just very poor metal. The balls broke & shattered into sand. I have a video on replacing the bearings and where I got them. I ended up using SKF bearings as I don't think Timken makes this size... or didn't then. Since I did the day's work and spend $250 dollars on bearings I haven't had any noises or problems. All of my cars and trucks are far lighter than the 9000lbs limit they claim but the chance of me putting anything on this lift over 5000 is zero. I lifted a Dodge 2500 up a few feet to work on the brakes and wheel bearings and it was clearly straining the lift. The pump is 120v and seems to do fine but I just am not going to trust it. I am lucky that I don't have heavy things but if I did I would have gotten a bigger lift for sure. I do think the locking system if good and it does have a 2 level safety "system". My main concern was how the wildfire fellows threw out my claim and were somewhat rude. Take Care. Bobby

Howdy, The only things I can think of is Bondo with Kitty hair or just plain fiberglass They sell fiberglass kits that have all you need. Fiberglass Bondo is strong but not like just plain fiberglass. Both are tough and easy to sand and shape. You may need to stand up the tub so the resin won't sag and you can build it up in steps. Hope that helps! Let me know how it comes out. Bobby PS - never mix Bondo on cardboard/stock.

I ran this motor without any sealant and it failed in 10 miles. You must use the correct sealant on the intake gaskets on both sides, but don't over do it. She is running fine with zero problems. A kiss of the correct sealant on each intake port is the best way. Like chicken soup... it can't hurt. Fel-Pro failed without this touch of help. The surfaces are old and warped so take that in to account.

I'm getting ready to do some work on her tomorrow. She's been so great. Glad you'r having the same kinda fun.

@@bobeaseshop9389 drive her everyday. I have more to do but all small stuff. Love that you are documenting this for the future generations of car owners.

That small stuff can go on for a long time and to me is just as much fun. Let me know when you hit the road!

Well fitting bronze bushings do seem like a better way. I got the best ball bearings I could so I feel safe. I am happy all of this has happened as we can help guys that are shopping.

Does anyone know if they have switched their bearings? I’m looking at the trailer lift. Thanks

It does make noise every time it cycles through and it can be loud and go for a long time. If it's anywhere near a drain it will eco up, I my little house it can be heard almost anywhere so I had to make it quiet. I use it on my ice maker so I can go off at any time. Yes - it is normal to hear it frequently. Thanks!

Thank you for this video. However mine is continuing to run. I think it is in The system itself. I have plenty in my storage. And the bladder is relatively new. It should just fill up the tank and stop the gurgling. However mine does not anybody else come up with a solution? Thank you in advance.

Howdy, That is a very thin piece of metal and it was kinda rusty but overall it still looks fine. Just a toe kick and it was just an attempt make it a bit better. Funny how most of the parts on this thing weigh a ton but this is very thin. Thanks for the comment.

All I had was this one chair with no extra parts. I wish I had some extra bits for the pumping mech, but this was it.

It's crazy as the lift overall isn't bad, but the bearings are crummy and it just would not cost that much more to put better bearings in it. The response from WildFire was more crummy than the bearings. My disappointment in them, and the other guys on UA-cam that got these for free, is deep. Maybe the free ones to bigger UA-cam guys got better bearings to start with? I wrote those "Big UA-cam Guys" and zero response from them. My hope was WIldFire would fess up and offer a kit with all 10 better bearings or something. It is a long job to make this thing safe and like it said it's $250+ and a whole days work - and I have the tools! Thanks for the comment as I hope it helps spread the word. I had no idea this video was over 4,000 views until today so that's good. The other point is that I would NEVER put anything on this that was close to 9,000 pounds. I put my friends 1997 Ram Duel on it and it just didn't look right. Most times now I don't even take cars, or my truck, all the way up. I'm just a little gun shy. Bobby

That Great! I never dreamed this video would help in this way. I just assumed everyone would have all the parts so I was just going for sharing some experience. Very glad this helped you. I used to put bikes together for a Western Auto when I was a boy and that was a pain to get on the good side of that learning curve. Missing hardware,, bent frames and worse. You made me think of that. Great comment and I'm going to share it with my friends. Bobby

Thank You. She may be going on the lift later today for some Mega safe fuse work and vacuum line work. I'll have a video up in a few days. Bobby

It may be you have too much pipe. I learned that the hard way a few months ago. Take off a section at a time and try that. Let me know how it goes. I used mine a few times in the barn last winter and found a shorter vent worked better. Bobby

Just over roof no taller

I'm happy you enjoyed it! After all this time both of the AutoMeter gauges are working great. Just after this I put one in a 1970 Triumph Spitfire with the original motor and a 2 bbl Weber. I still see guys that like the AEM's but I also see them failing for guys too. AutoMeter has among the best in gauges in my opinion. Thank You, Bobby

@@bobeaseshop9389 I think the AEM LSU4.9 O2 sensor is their Achilles heel . I spent all day yesterday installing "AutoMeter 200870 Gauge, Air/Fuel Ratio-Wideband, Analog, 2 5/8", 8:1-18:1, Stpr Mtr, Marine White" on my motorcycle . I'm having a problem with it. After voltage exceeded 12.5 V it's supposed to start working. Sometimes it does, sometimes it dont . I think maybe the problem is low voltage while the engine is cranking, causes the gauge to lock out. That's the way my Innovative Motorsports gauge does. I had to install a relay to keep the gauge from powering up untill the engine finished cranking up. I'm returning this one and I'm going to try the "Auto Meter 4379 Ultra-Lite Wide Band Air Fuel Ratio Kit,2.3125 in."

@@yoyohooyo Let me know how this goes for you. I have a friend that put an AGM battery in a somewhat older Harley and it just did not work. Motorcycles are finicky about most any change in electrical systems. The only thing I have tried is putting LED turn signal bulbs in a 2006 Harley and that worked fine. I too would have tried what you did but I can see how it is a problem. You sound like you know what you're doing and I'm sure you'll get it to work. Maybe some kind of capacitor to keep the voltage and wave forms level and keep the gauge at solid voltage? I really want to know how this turns out for you. If you don't make videos maybe you can share with me, once you get it to work, and I'll see about mocking it up and making a video as I think you are on to something and it should be shared. How Fun & Interesting! By the way I love you mop head photo.

It has worked well for years and I have had friends that have bought it. Mine is outside and never fails but even inside mounts work well. Let me know how it works for you! Bobby

@@bobeaseshop9389 I'm in the city. I need to get to the high point for best reception.

@@ChosenOne6666 When you do your scan make sure you get your favorite type of programming. You can find them on the web but move it around and see what you get. I get around 70 channels but mostly watch GRIT old western stuff or Bugs Bunny on ME TV on Saturday mornings... Play with it and have fun! There may be a site to help you find what you like? I'm way out in the country on a farm and so I doubt I will have the options you do. Point it in different directions just to see.

The Heathkit stuff was so much fun and my dad loved building the kits and getting stuff for me. He was a Radio guy and started a few radio stations in the 60's. I grew up in the back control rooms with guys that were great and made it all work. I was very lucky. It was never instant anything.... I had to earn it and build it. What a great way to grow up. We all need a push. I am sure you could have done anything you set your mind to. I messed up lots of things... Edison took many tries and years to make a light bulb. Thank You. Bobby

You made a wise choice. I only ordered this because VGG & Mustie1 got them when Wildfire came out and said they were good. It is an OK lift - once ya pony up the extra $250 & an extra day of work. I'll subscribe to your channel hoping to see how things are going for you. Bobby

That was a great comment! Thank You. Overall I just didn't see the need to go into such a large project for a toe kick. If it were something more important I would have done something alone the lines you suggest or gotten some lamps but this was just so small. Thanks Again. Bobby

The pump came with this oil so I used it. I'd say stick with the same brand of oil to whatever pump brand you're using, but I have used other oils in other pumps like my big shop compressor and never had a problem. Not a place to mess around and I try to get the best brands I can but there are tons of choices and synthetics are a part of the mix. Thanks!

I use "black gold premium vacuum pump oil" on the pumps I use at work (I do commercial and residential HVAC... But I also do a ton of car work for my friends and myself). I've never had an issue with that oil and it's not from a brand that makes pumps.. they just make pump oil. I don't know why I never thought of making a simple catch can for em though! Dude that was a really perfect idea! Whether u thought that up on ur own, just realized to do a bigger concept of the hand pump, or learned it from someone... Makes TOTAL sense! U got me digging around my garage to mock up one (maybe a tad smaller) for work! Doing HVAC, the correct (in a nutshell) point to know u removed contamination, is to use a micron gauge and have a reading of less than 500, isolate the system and gauge from the pump with the manifold, and maintain less than 1000 for at least 5min... Well, that's how our industry goes, but the #1 reason it can take all day or even overnight, and many oil changes (only happens on the days u think u finally get a short easy day), is cuz the pump oil gets contaminated with water or refrigerant oil.. that catch can should solve that!! Water vapor will exhaust right out those pump with no issue, but liquid will just mix into the oil. So say a coworker pushes a line set through a chase under a house, forgot to braze the lines shut, shoves the shit through water... U come in the next day, throw nitrogen on it, it passes the pressure test, ur happy cuz there's no leaks, ya already braze the lines to the unit, release pressure, throw it on a vacuum, AND POOF! Only 3sec in and ur sight glass is completely fogged up... Damn water cuz the new guy doesn't get it. Cut the lines, purge em with nitrogen, and holy crap that was like 2 gallons of water u blasted out! Now ur down to no nitrogen for the next job... ...but making a catch can.. DOOOD!! U can stop the vac before water touches the upper tube, empty the can, repeat til no water, then cut the lines and purge em with just a few spurts of nitro, rebraze, throw the vac back on, n ur in business! Only used a quarter of a tank of nitro, never had to change oil, and barely takes much time! Changing oil til it's dry can take up to a couple days! Nitro purging can take a few oil changes, a few nitro tanks, and most of a day. This would take half the time as a purge, no excess nitro, and no oil change! U rock dude! My boss is gonna totally dig it too!

That is a great comment and I am SO happy it may help you all. I used mine yesterday in fact. I pulled a quart of auto transmission oil out of my truck to put in some Bar's leaks treatment. I had the idea some time ago and have made a few for friends. It just came to me when I was using a hand pump and only getting a few ozs in that tiny can that comes with the "Mighty Vac". There had to be a better way. I also use it to pull brake fluid out before a brake fluid refresh and it gets all the gunk out of the bottom of the master tanks. I do worry about anything flammable and steer very clear of anything at all questionable. This would be a bomb so be more than mindful about that - as I am sure you would be. The little pump has performed so well over the years - even as an automotive A/C vacuum. Just glad you can use this idea.

Built in late 2005 and title is 2006. Bobby

Thanks. I never thought powder coating was so cool and fun! I have learned a few tricks over the years and did some powder coating yesterday. Anytime I can I do it instead of spray paint.

I found the porcelain to be hard to get back to a gloss so I'll try your idea. It just seems to be so dull but I will give it more time and effort.

I tried some plain saddle soap and even used it the other day to keep it soft but it needs it at least once a month. I've not heard of the brand you speak of but will try it! Hard to believe the stuff is over 100 years old and anything to keep it right is worth the effort. Thanks again... Bobby

Howdy, This was some time ago and I have looked at the video and wiring again and can tell you that the yellow wire on this set up is 12V on the ignition switch. Not the battery "Always Hot" to the "B" post of the key/ignition - most of the time that wire would be red. The Yellow is hot with key on and goes to the regulator box "IGN" on most aftermarket key switches like this one. The yellow wire here is only 12v with the key on. I would say this is the "regulator switch". It took a fair amount of research to find anything on this and I recall there were several different diagrams and set ups and this thing was hacked as you could tell from the old box with all of the blue crimp connectors. I hope that help you. Bobby

Thank You So Much! It lives in the barn and friends sit on it now and then and I am very careful to keep it covered. People love it but don't sit there long as it isn't to great to sit there a long time and I've always guess it was made that way to get people out once the haircut was done. Bobby

@@bobeaseshop9389 well thank you so. The headrest is spelled r a i d i a r

@@itreallyisntpersonalb1960 I Never was a good typissest : ) Bobby