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@@modsquad8u only the reverse pin power is hooked up, so chances are the truck won’t know it’s there unless you’re backing up. I’m guessing the truck would only read the brake pin to activate the brake controller, can’t imagine they’d use just a ground connection, let us know if it does, would be interested to know.

@@wowcantbelieveit2780 thanks, just didn’t want to create new holes, trucks rust fast enough as it is.

It’s been so long, You would want to measure to be sure.

3" is what was used.

Wrapping the wire around the screw and clamping it between the brass plates is equivalent if not better than crimping an additional failure prone blade to the end of the wire and then clamping that into the plug screw, clamped is clamped. We definitely could have used a bigger soldering iron to draw the solder in but solder isn’t required, most trailers are put together with cheap blade clips or shrink/crush connections. This was beyond overkill and will outlast the light pods. Thanks for watching, we have some cool stuff coming this winter.

Glad you like it, my upcoming project is going to be crazy, working on the CAD files now, coming soon.

So far after a few years they've survived, although I'm not too hard on the truck. Thanks for watching, a new project is coming and it's going to be big, stay tuned.

Just some off the shelf pods like blazer, Amazon has a bunch for cheap.

stay tuned, I have something new coming out, if you like truck projects, this one is going to be a big one.

Thanks, still trying to find my format, but I’ve got a ton of footage to edit once I figure out the direction.

Does your truck have a different plug on the bumper where you live?

Why?

Why cuz youd get caught jumping the border

Hit the notifications if you haven't already, I've been working on something new and it is all about trucks.

I just unplug the reverse lights when I have a trailer on, the light would just be blocked by the trailer in most cases anyway. But when I’m backing up to a trailer at night I leave it on to get under the ball easier and then plug the trailer in. I’m sure you could add reverse lighting to a trailer if you wanted to run it.

There’s a good chance that the fuse for your rear lights is 15amp, but it’s easy to find in your vehicle to be sure. A couple 2-4amp LED lamps should be no problem for it. You can even change out your stock reverse lamps in the tail lights to LEDs and decrease your total draw even more if you need the piece of mind. Don’t put a larger fuse in the space though, it’s to protect the vehicle’s wire more than the light bulbs. It’s unlikely you will pop a fuse with these LED pods, if it was halogen or an old incandescent style then maybe. Also, some lights are more water proof than others, so if you’re backing into deep water for some reason, don’t forget to unplug, it might not hurt the LED itself, but might short the fuse, just a good habit. It’s also possible to use the running light pin on the trailer plug, and have a switched light for working at night. A switch does need another joint in the wire and so may cause reliability issues over time, but it’s not a big deal.

Were going to be putting a ladder rack on my f250 coming up, it’s going to have work lighting and a tool box light installed, keep watching.

When you connect it. Do they stay on all the time or do they turn on only when you back up

I was thinking about building a trailer hitch step with two reverse lights and one brake light by welding some square tubing in a “T” and then drilling holes for pop in led lights. The reverse only turns on when in reverse if you use the right hitch pins.

Yes, if you wire your lights in series you can have four, but you have to make sure you don’t draw too much power and blow your fuse. So make sure you don’t go too crazy with the size of the lights.

Thank you

No new drill holes into the truck.

🤣🤣🤣 Love it.

Ozzie Alarcon yes it is. working on it, but just the echo in the space doesn’t get along with my iPads. Hopefully the video will get the point across.

I just bought a cheap four pack on amazon, they weren’t truly waterproof and I got some condensation in them during the summer at the boat launch, but for the price I can live with that. I’m not sure a high end brand isn’t made in China these days anyway. Building a crazy truck starting this winter, getting back to posting some projects after a long renovation this year. Tune in.

Adam M I was hoping viewers would recognize the plug I was working with as a 7 pin hitch plug. It plugs into the bumper hitch plug.

@@Buildituniversity yea that is true so you have that big plug sticking out with the wire lights facing outward? and does your truck think a trailer is hooked up?

Thomas Herman this is a mod for functionality, the idea is not to cut any wires on the factory harness. The same mod can be done by cutting the harness but it will likely corrode the wires over time and you would have to wire in a waterproof switch to turn it off when you are pulling a trailer. When I don’t want to use the lights at all, I can tuck the plug up behind the bumper. Cutting the wire wasn’t a long term solution for this project.

Keith Valence I didn’t need a switch for this application, but a switch put in line with the power wire would be easy to install, but it might wear out over time if you back your truck into the boat ramp often.

Yes you can. You would want a 3 position rocker switch (on/off/on) that is weatherproof. Wire the first on position to the reverse lead from the trailer pin, and the second on position to the normal running lights on lead from the trailer pin. The reason I would do this is so you still don't cut into your trucks wiring but also the three position switch will keep you from shorting a fuse. The switch off position is in between the two on positions, so you can switch it on for working out in the yard, then off for no lights at all, then on to the other side for reverse only function. That's a good idea. Just stay with the LED pods, since some of the bigger light bars need their own fuse due to the higher draw. You don't want to pop your taillight fuse when you're miles from home.

You could wire the 3 position switch to the reverse and to the 12 volt auxiliary power wire in the 7 way plug.

adam whi

Me!!

calendil I placed the printer on 4 equal length tie rods and suspended it to balance the shock using a pendulum dampening effect. Believe it or not the braces prevented a lot of movement like this due to the flex in the table legs adding a whip motion to the top of the towers. If the frame was bolted to my floor it would have had much less vibration but it's not worth all the bending to take it off the table. More to come soon.

It will depend on your version of cr-10. Mine it an s5. So I cut down some 3 foot rods. Remember the front length and back length are not the same, the front should be longer.

4 t nuts only. Two per top corner. The other fasteners are straight bolts into the end of the extrusion , it’s all in the video.

Thanks, more stuff will be on the way as I get time to look into these printers a little more. Have a mini and an ender 2 from creality on the way.

Should be by the end of the day, the hold the design for 24 hours after uploading before they post it.