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@@FuchsHorst Yes. Box Components at the time of the video was blowing out there groupsets super cheap. They are primarily a BMX and MTB company. There 9 speed groups they only do 50 tooth rear cassettes. As were the 8 speed group they offered it in a 42 rear cassette. I have a box system on my Ritchey Mountain bike and on my Tern 20 inch wheel folding bike. So I'm happy with there shifting quality. I wanted to stay with them.

@@albikes8484 that sounds like a good choice! I didn't know about Box Components just until right now.

@@FuchsHorst They have been around I think 10 years. It's Toby Henderson's component company. He was a famous BMX rider and a pro Downhiller.

@@robappleby583 I haven't done it. I'm getting used to them. Way back when cantilever and Ubrakes were popular. You were able to get brake lever grips. Very similar to what you suggest. I've even seen them made of leather.

@@tdgdbs1 I'm happy I have mine. It was gifted to me. So I use it as a project / Tinker around bike. The ride quality is amazing. Modern bikes with fatter tires also ride nice. But not in the same way old school steel does.

@@zoonvantijs4560 It worked out perfect. All gears shift well. I can back pedal in the first gear with out it derailing. Because it's a square taper crankset. If I needed the chainrings in a millimeter or 2 tops. I could always tighten the crank more. Not recommended . but possible. Anymore than that and I'd have to buy a narrower BB. I got lucky. Running very smooth.

@@albikes8484 👌

@@zoonvantijs4560 Yes. It's something I saw in a magazine back in the 90s. And I tried it back then on a mountain bike. It wasn't great. I decided to revisit it. I'm surprised at how well it works on the single speed. I did have to do a slight truing after a couple rides. Since then it's been stable. Is it something I'd reccomend ? The answer is no. But it looks cool and I had long spokes. So I decided to go for it. I'm happy to say it worked out.

@@albikes8484 At first I thought those spokes were broken, but I understand now it is functional. Never saw anything like it, looks special.

@@zoonvantijs4560 back then we called the twist lacing. But recently I saw a UA-cam video where the guy called it a snowflake pattern .

@@TheRokko66 I like that idea. Thank you.

@@Pianist203 Its a sealed headset. And all I care about is not getting a steak up my back. I didn't have enough of the same wood to make two fenders. But I can see myself making actual full fenders for front and rear. Thank you for watching and commenting.

​@@albikes8484Sounds good, I should also go for sealed headset since it got a bit gritty after riding some time without fenders.. 😉 Thanks for the reply.

I made it. I copied it from a Woodys Fenders model called a chop chort. www.woodysfenders.com/category-s/116.htm

@@albikes8484 thank you my friend.

@@billdavis431 All I need is one fender. I often think about building a front. I'd need fender struts. With out the struts I feel I might hit the fender with my pedaling feet. I can't say I love the look of my tall quil stem. But I do love sitting up higher. Fuji bikes run small for there given size. If I bought one bigger size I might not have meeded that tall quill stem.

@@JimD-h8s Thank you. Things I've learned. I prefer 3 under that split. I'm getting better every time I go out. Thank you for the comment.

@@albikes8484 Agreed. I went with three under too. I have a dodgy index finger on my draw hand and pinching the arrow was a problem. I ended up adding brass string knocks both high and low to prevent the arrow from releasing nock high. I'm pretty confident the equipment is dialed. Any misses are entirely on me. I'm getting better at a smooth draw, getting a consistent anchor is still a work in progress. Sometimes I pull it farther than normal and get slapped by either the string or arrow on the way by. If nothing else, it's making me pay a lot more attention to my anchor, release etc.

@@JimD-h8s Amen Brother ! You can get a Higher High Through God & Traditional Archery , then any kind of alcohol or drugs can ever give you ! It's a Great Addiction !

@@JimD-h8s I have a buddy who was a bow tech at a local outdoor center. First thing I did was call him to figure out were I should set the knock point. He told me the measurement. Then said to use making tape as a quick knock point. This way I could dial in what right for me. Once I got somewhat consistent I put a brass knock in its place. And im lucky. No string for arm hits.

@@Steelhorse814 Thank you. That might have been my 3rd time. I started very close and worked my way back. I'm having fun.

@@albikes8484 That's What it's All About , Fun !

@@griffincui On my single speed freewheel bike I think I'm around a 2.8 to one. 46 ring and a 16 freewheel. My fixies are all over the place. I tend to like that 2.8 range.

@@albikes8484 I live near Seattle with lots of short and steep hills, so 46x18 for now, thanks for sharing!

@@billdavis431 Its made by Soma . It's called the Noah's Arc bar. There are other Arc bars out there. Dimension also makes a version.

@@albikes8484 great wrap job

also do you ave no brakes on this thing?

@@billdavis431 I do run brakless. I don't reccomend it to begginers. But once you've got some miles in. That's a different deal

@@megacase I don't see it as chickening out. Depending on the type of riding you do. And the distances. Coasters are fine. If you do go with a coaster brake. You will need to know how to service them. It's not to diffucult. They have a tendancy to need bearing cone adjustments more often than a standard ball bearing hub. The State rear spacing is 120 millimeter. So you will need to get a coaster in that width. Or get the narrower 110 mm version and use a spacer. And the last thing. You can always swap out the rear wheel for playing with fixed gear. There not as hard to stop as you would think. Thanks for the comment. And have fun with your build.

@@downjesse Sweeet. It's an amazingly smooth riding bike. Compared to today's much stiffer frames and ride qualities.

@@MrRuvimovich Yes it will. Im pretty sure that's what my Fuji is.

@@albikes8484 Thank you very much!

I got it on amazon. Its an Origin 8 one inch threaded headset. Im very happy with it. www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Threaded-Headset-Steerer/dp/B003MNO3ZA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=52VATOIZGHZE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SE1GL1rAk94_80Q9mgLEOBhLYhk3N3W9J583aTGkZjKdi9zmvk3AWCRL42rV2SA73wpwlzhLfx5kyOQ-CGHITMxjjsaXk0yfM-XbkZslHQ6X4pil0UEyHFky_tq9Egy84WrZ34kaJ9JiVbLeGzrXbtoFXyG8YcB0eYLvYst566GkKZ2Z_QAGng6o3pxr4UEnFcWpRUTr_a_Lg59fikb_ujAmiqdViDpIyLwjBUDN12NwfavbDL12gtJqYD_-LUPISeX5FZkTw93M6uxzkwEE-P76qyAT3itQjin0uTBpNcA.d88alDvMdpH59Pt13z8aduXgcmMv4cTHK4c4L3mLZ7w&dib_tag=se&keywords=origin%2B8%2B1%2Binch%2Bheadset&qid=1723452877&sprefix=origin%2B8%2B1%2Binch%2Bheadset%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-1&th=1

Its a 120mm reach with a 225mm quill length. They make it in different reaches and quill lengths.

@@petercostello3196 Thankyou. Even a medium size frame pump is better than a mini pump.

I never weighed it. But it feels light to me. I did quite a bit of upgrades from stock . Like lighter wheels and tires. Plus i stripped the brakes off. When it was stock it came with 700x30 tires and heavier Deep V ish style wheels. I wouldnt say it was super light. But i wouldnt categorize it as heavy either. 24 lbs stock i think. My upgrades might have it around 20 to 22 lbs. Those are guesses.Not facts. LOL I do know this. It rides light and smooth. I wouldnt say that about stock tires that came on it.

@@albikes8484 thanks so much!

I am running Continental Ultra Sport 700x25 tires. They come in all sorts of sizes. And there not expensive. I love there ride quality and there durability. I agree. The stock tires arnt the greatest.

@@albikes8484 Thanks!

@@aidenb8890 Ya. I agree. I think all bicycles have there place. But from a freeing simplicity it's hard to beat a single gear bike.

This model came stock with unicrown fork and 30mm tires. Some Feathers come with a lugged crown fork which dont have the same clearence.

boxcomponents.com/products/box-four-8s-wide-multi-shift-groupset

@@mr.g.916 It's a fixed gear. So I use my legs. The bike did come stock with brakes. Which would be needed if I used it as a single speed. I took freewheel off and put a fixed cog on.

I rode fixed-gear bikes on the track. They are used there so no one can cause chaos by stopping quickly. But I would never be stupid enough to ride one on the road. This guy would wet himself on the track.

@@hughlawson1051 Your probably correct. I would. 😆

@@albikes8484 You are advocating something very dangerous. The most inexperienced bikers are the ones likely to copy you and end up dead.

@@hughlawson1051 Thanks for bringing this to my attension. I dont feel im advocating it. But by me choosing it and sharing it. I can see your case. It wont change how i ride or setup my bikes. But it will change how i aproach doing videos in the future with my fixed bikes. Thank you.

@@JDAcha The model is a Noahs Arch from Some Fabrication. It's a 25.4 and fits the stock feather stem. The width is 24 inches rich is 610mm I think.

@@silentumexcubitor6747 I can see doing it in the future.

@@Nexus9-mj2pv looks like 11 and 3/4 inches.

Two methods. Ill teach you the math method. Measure from the nut were it meets the fretboard to the 12th fret. Times that by 2. Take that number and thats were the center of the saddle will go. There is a compensation to get it to play better. Its a miilimeter forward to take care of the string height because of the saddle. Method number two and how i like to do it. I install the two outer strings. And anchor them to the back if the guitar/uke using a flat peace of wood. I drill 2 holes in it about the spacing were they would be on the saddle. Tune them up to a moderate tension. Slide the bridge and saddle under the strings about were it will go. Tune those strings up to pitch. Now you can slide the bridge back and forth till the 12th fret and the open string plays the same not. I learned that method from the Jerry Rosa String works channel. It takes longer to type than it is to do. LOL Once you get it were you want. Mark the position. If you actually read this far. My measurment is 20 1/4 inches . Thats from the center of saddle to the nut were it meets the fret board.

@@Tuffjobs I'm very happy with mine. That said. I did upgrade alot on it. I did ride it stock for awhile and it was good. I had no complaints. This model came with ball bearing headset and hubs. Me being Me. I upgraded headset and wheels to a sealed cartridge system. I like it even better now. Lol. I will say this. I love the ride quality of the steel frame. I'm 5ft 11 inches. 34 inch inseam.And I'm on the Large. Fuji bikes have always sized small. The large fits me well. Hopefully this helps you with your decision.

@@albikes8484 the large is advertised as a 57. I’m usually on a 56. I’m also 5’11” with a 34inch inside leg! I thought the tensioning screw system looked a bit fiddly. Traditional drops seem much easier to use. Why do single speed bikes not just use traditional drops and skewers? Or thru axles? I guess it’s all to do with chain tensioning? Thanks, Laurence

Do the tensioning screws remain in place or get removed before riding the bike?

@@Tuffjobs As far as drops. I have another fixed gear with drops. Quick release would be fine for the front.But you'd have to worry about the rear wheel slipping under torque. Through Axles would be amazing. But you would with have to have an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain. Or a more elaborate rear dropout that slides the through axle back for tensioning. And both of those options would be much more pricey. As far as the stock Fuji tensioners. There a traditional long Allen bolt/screw that rests against the axle. Not fiddly at all. My state 4130 has the same system. As far as frame size goes. I put a taller stem on so I can sit more uprite. If your fine with a lower bar the 57 will work. If you want a more uprite position the 60c might be better for that

@@Tuffjobs I keep them in place. But you totally could remove them.

My braces came not truly flat. The back was in good shape. Having alittle roundness to the back isnt a bad thing. I have built quite a few of these klits. And its up to the person to true everything up. I just looked at my baritone. And its a flat back. One of my tricks to level things is to tape sand paper down to my flattest surface. Then i can sand the braces or anything down to flat. Good luck with your project. Im very happy with my built baritone. I did change the strings to Aquila Red with the 2 low string wound. Sounds very rich.

@@albikes8484 Thanks for the reply, great help.

Thank you. Something about old school steel that looks good and rides smooth.

@@EduardoGomez-eq3uf I was using the triangle tip to do tighter sections. I agree. I would like these is different sizes and radious.

V-Brakes are alot stronger. They will stop you . The only disadvantage to V Brakes are that you need very true rims. Because the pad to rim clearence is much tighter on Vs. If your wheels are true this isnt much of an issue. Canti brakes even set up tight tend to have better mud clearence. If your rims are in decent shape. Go with the Vs.

@albikes8484 Right on man, thanks for the advice! Subscribed

@@rollypollyguy3976 try using Kool-Stop eagle claws for both v-brake or canti pads. you will never regret it.