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Neese's Workshop
United States
Приєднався 8 бер 2023
Welcome to my channel! Here you will find a mix of things including car and truck related content, woodworking, and overlanding. I am not a professional by any means, just a guy who loves to fix and restore things when I can. I hope you find my videos helpful and entertaining!
Thank you!
Thank you!
2013 F150 J&L 3.0 Catch Can Update
This video shows the install of a J&L Oil Separator Co Catch can on the passenger side of the engine. This is a great upgrade and is compatible with the 2011-2023 F-150 2.7L/3.5L/5.0L; '18-'21 Expedition Passenger Side. This is great for long term engine protection and peace of mind. I purchased this off of Amazon for $160 ( amzn.to/3uOlp7t ) but is currently on sale for $143 as of 12/5/23. J&L states you should check between 500-1000 miles after install to see how often you'll need to service in the future as it will differ between for different driving conditions and climate.
Переглядів: 73
Відео
2013 F150 Factory Subwoofer Upgrade - Updated
Переглядів 7 тис.10 місяців тому
Here is an updated video trying to answer some of the questions on the previous video with a visual. This is a very "safe" factory upgrade. If you want more bass you'll want a sub that can handle more output and an amp that can provide it. Link for the LOC and other items I've used below. Hope this helps! LOC - amzn.to/3tWexog Amp Wiring Kit - amzn.to/3Sf2fBr Amp - www.crutchfield.com/p_1369836...
2013 F150 Rear Shock Replacement
Переглядів 37110 місяців тому
In this video I replace my factory shocks (200k miles... oof) with some nice Bilstein 5100's ( amzn.to/498CHvD ). Definitely a much needed replacement/upgrade. These are meant for 0-1" of lift per the ad so they fit perfectly as my truck is not lifted. These shocks are meant to fit an 09-13 F150. They will probably fit a 2014 but I would double check as I know most suspension components show ei...
2015 Acura RDX Oil Change
Переглядів 1,8 тис.10 місяців тому
If you're changing the oil on your second generation 2013-2018 Acura RDX with the 3.5L v6 (J35z2 Engine) this is the video for you. The procedure will be the same although resetting your oil light may vary slightly with the tech model/newer years. These engines require 4.55 quarts of 0w-20 oil. Oil brand is certainly your preference as most oil companies are very competitive. I use mobile 1 Adv...
2013 F150 Factory Subwoofer Upgrade
Переглядів 20 тис.Рік тому
Here I show how I upgraded the factory subwoofer in my 2013 F150 with the Sony Sync sound system. I put in a JL Audio 10" with a JL Audio 500/1 amplifier with a sealed box. Fits well, looks and sounds great! Sub - www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W0V34/JL-Audio-10W0v3-4.html?tp=68872 Amp - www.crutchfield.com/p_13698362/JL-Audio-JD500-1.html?tp=35834 Box - amzn.to/40lNxd4 Line Output Converter - amzn...
2013 F150 5.0L Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement ** 4x4**
Переглядів 27 тис.Рік тому
How to replace (or clean) the oil pressure sensor on a 5.0L F150 4x4. The process for a 2wd is much easier since there is no front differential in the way. Whether replacing or cleaning the process to get to it is the same. I was having an issue on cold days where the "Low Oil Pressure" warning would pop up at idle after driving. Replacing the oil pressure sensor with a Motorcraft SW8368 Oil Pr...
F150 5.0 Magnaflow 14419 Review
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
This video shows the Magnaflow muffler 14419 on a 2013 F150 5.0 with the resonator still on. Warm start, some light revs, and idling. The sound is great, low throaty tone that is pleasant to listen to and gets loud when you step on it. Link to the muffler below. amzn.to/409S2r2
Have you tried the castrol 5w-20 gtx even there green high mileage ir even the silver full synthetic (no more magnatec ir syn blend that it replaced) this one seems thinner and metallic versus the more calcium like mineral conventional by just shaking the bottle.
The castrol gtx 5w-20 was excellent in old mans 04 j35 v6 with a half quart Lucas stabilizer netting 23 mpg around town and 300 miles on freeway using half tank of 18.5 gallon fuel cell on normal all season tires After hyundai gdi engines were carboning up they changed the formula 2018 and smell like chicken gizzards honestly being boiled. My buddy at advance said its got natural gas in the gtx 5w-20 also. No wonder it smell like sorta grease tank. So i started using gtx high mileage 5w-20 even tried edge 10w-30 and the high mileage edge 10w-30 like an Acura nsx daily driver does going to various racetracks
Thank you for the video. It’s nice information. 👍🏼
alternator videos pls! You're very informative and helpful
Thanks what a pain on my @SS
Hey man, I followed your tutorial exactly how you did it but wired up 2 subs. But for some reason the subs won’t work unless one of the rca cables are disconnected. Any suggestions on what that could possibly be ? Thanks in advance!
could this also be the cause of a light leak that drops down onto the bell housing and onto the ground? my oil level slowly drops over the course of a few months and leaks a nice puddle on the ground. I used to get this message during the colder months but not anymore.
People keep asking and I never see a clear answer from you, but I’ll ask one more time what colors are the negative wires and what color are the positive wires coming from original sub harness?? I know you’ve covered the colors off the LOC which are white and grey
+ purple/green - green/white + green/purple - gray 😊
@@mikepitts3844purple /green and green/white are the left side ? Or right side
Torque those to 66 foot pounds. Don’t want to squeeze those bushings.
About time some explains shit rite
How did u get ur sub wires to come out behind the seat and not underneath the factory sub
You could’ve been a surgeon. I envy your patience & calmness. I do all my own work and for the grandkids. My dad taught me “ Never work on anything if you are tired or in a hurry.” Yours is the best video out there and I didn’t even have to listen to acid rock music. Thanks.
Did you use the bass knob that came with the loc? It comes with a auxiliary input not to sure what that plugs into. My amp has like a phone cord connector
Where did you ground
Thanks for this video! Studied for the last 2 weeks, bought new install kit and same LOC, and snipped out the Sony stock Sub. Hardest part was getting through the firewall without a coat hanger (used a wooden shishkabob skewer) and the kit did not come with enough connectors to attach the fuse. Wish the LOC wires or stock wires were longer, but that part was very easy. Got to get my old Alpine mrv500 powering my RF P3 12 again :) just need to add a fuse to the power, and get a new sub/box since it doesn’t fit under the seat. Thanks again for the original video and answering questions, really helped make this a simple project in under 3 hours
Did you get yours going? And did you use the bass knob that came with the loc?
@@tylerkirtz1167 yes, it’s been running great since install. I did not need to mess with the levels when I installed so have not plugged in the knob yet
@Nvthvn23 thanks for the quick response, I actually looked on a site and seen that the bass knob actually plugs into the loc.. lol.. I have the factory sub and amp in my 13 limited, I'm waiting on my speaker to come in but I went ahead and pulled the stock sub, can I just use quick splice connectors to the factory sub to loc and keep my factory plugged in also?
So do i connect the positive to positive and negative to negative???sorry I have never done this before and it’s really confusing me
The negative is just a ground, the positive goes to the positive on the battery
What are the dementions of your box?????
How does the amp know when to turn off?
Dude, I changed the alternator on that car, wasn’t fun about 3 weeks ago. I believe spool valve / and front valve cover oil leaks damaged it! Car is at the Honda dealer as we speak to get valve cover gaskets replaced and valve adjustment while they are at it. I can go into more detail regarding alternator swap if you would like.
13 RDX here, oil change every 3K miles. Super Tech 0W20 and typically run OEM Honda filter. Right now got MotorCraft filter in her because they were on special. Nice vid!
How to connect converter,? video please! I have the same model of truck
This video helped me a lot. Moving the alternator and heat shield were clutch!
Perfect! I needed this and you delivered! Thanks!
So the thread you referenced the guy uses the stock amp, did you just take the wires after the sub connector (green connector) or did you go before said connector?
As you point out the 4x4 presents an added level of pain and if I had a lift at home I might have pulled the alternator but truth be told, following your guide made this a breeze. The only hiccup for me in addition to your fantastic directions was that the Oil Press sensor was turned in a way that had the sensors wire clip facing away from me. Thus, I chose to remove the alternator cable as well as the ex manifold guard (per your suggestion) since my hands are just small enough that I would have been successful without removing those two items if it weren't for the clip's position. Moving those two items gave me the additional room to get my hand in with enough angle/leverage for my finger to depress the doggone clip on the sensor's wire. From that point on finishing the job was simple. Thanks so much for the clear and concise video. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback! Great to hear you were able to get it done with little trouble! I know a lift would have made this quite a bit easier.
Ditto. Clip was facing backwards.
What wires go wear cuz I’m having trouble with mine, my truck had sub under the back passenger seat
If you had the factory sub then you will have two sets of positive and negative wires connected together that came from the factory sub amp. Those wires will connect to your line output converter. The LOC will show a L and R that you need to connect the factory sub wires to. So long as you connect positive and negative consistently you should be good. I believe they all should require a power/ground/remote signal that you can connect to your amp in their respective spots which I did. I believe I showed it in this video but if not it will be in the first video I uploaded on it. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the update. Looks great!
do you have the sony sound system?
Yes I have the factory Sony navigation sound system
i learned after watching this video none of the things he says have to be removed need to be removed. the sensor is easily removed by laying under the truck and unplugging the wire and with a 13/16 deep socket and 3/8 drive ratchet remove sensor. i wasted my time removing the air box and coolant bottle but my heat shield wouldnt come off due to bolts being rusted out. 5 min job made harder by people not knowing the easy way.
Read the comments…
Thank you for the comment stating your obvious superiority. Like the above comment you also could have noticed the title stating “**4x4**”
I didn’t realize his is a 4x4 sorry. My 2 wheel drive was much easier. Now I have a oil pan leak and that’s easier to fix also
If you unbolt the seat and add some washers to raise the seat up you should have enough clearance to not hit the sub
I may do that or get some pieces made to fit so it doesn’t have any gap between the seat bracket and floor. Thanks for the idea!
Great, detailed video. I expect nothing less from Neese’s.
Cannot find wiring diagram for my 2013 xlt screw 5.0 4x4 !! Need to know which color wires to tap into and if I can pull the floor cover up and access them or where to access . Thanks so much !!!!
Do you have a factory sub in your f150? If not the process is a bit different than what I have shown in my videos. I just want to make sure so I lead you down the right path
Can you please tell me , how to wire the loc like what color wires to look for and where to tap into ?! Thanks man I’m only running one sub
Did you figure it out? I’m having the same problem figuring it out
If you have a factory sub you’re replacing you’ll have two positive and negative wires connected coming from the factory amp. You just connect positive negative on the L and R wires respectively on the LOC. if you have your amp hooked up you’ll connect the power/ground/remote wires to it which is what I did. Your amp will need to obviously be connected to the battery and a remote tapped into a fuse or wire that can handle the power and only gets power when the truck is on or running. If you do not have a factory sub it is a little more complicated. You will have to tap the LOC into a speaker that is close enough so you’re not running a ton of wires. I don’t know of a video that explains it well so I apologize if this not very helpful
Did you wire the yellow off of the loc to the positive and the black into the negative?
Yes I did, if you need a reference you can check out my updated video I posted a few weeks ago I made sure to show where all that was connected
@@NeesesWorkshop in my 2011 f150 I’m trying to use a loc off the factory sub harness I cut it at the plug for the old sub I have a +purple/green, -green/white and a +purple\green and -gray what wires from the loc do I need to match to these
@@NeesesWorkshop the amp turns on when I connect them but want transmit sound to the subs
@@brodytrump9658 did your factory sub have the amp connected to it? Or was it just the sub under your seat? I had just the sub so it sounds like I had different colors. Let me see if I can find a diagram that shows those colors, I know I’ve heard of those being related to the sub it’s just been a while since I’ve read into it.
@@NeesesWorkshop it’s alright man I figured it out last night thank you tho
Maybe you could get a grill guard to fit to protect the woofer
Yeah at some point I’ll do that or get another box to better protect it because I don’t love it being exposed even with a grille
It would have been easier to take the cable off the alternator would have helped you out and a wobbly socket much quicker
Yeah being confined to such a tight area makes it difficult. I was trying to take off as little as possible since it already takes long enough. Thanks for the heads up!
For all you saying get underneath, his truck is a 4x4 not some weak 2 wheel drive pick up. 4x4s are a beast to work on and is best to do it from up top as you can’t get to it from below. Maybe educate yourself
I would think some people would have read a comment or two prior to posting their own but when some people get butt hurt and can’t help themselves
Bro, I watched your video. You were so confident and seemed so knowledgeable l, yet you struggled so hard to get this done. This left me feeling like I was completely incompetent to even try and approach this task. It was only after reading the comments of several other people who had done it from underneath the truck that I realized there was a simpler better way. You need to retitle this video how not to change an oil pressure sensor.
Bro, thank you for the comment. Glad I was able to help
You can’t do it from underneath maybe educate yourself and see that 4 wheel drive is better from on top and not like a 2 wheel weak pick up truck that a monkey can work on
That’s because they had a 2wd truck, 4wd is much harder much less space to work with on the underside. Jackass.
@northtexasrockhound7530 this video is for 4x4s dumbass
Sounds great! Nice tip.
I want to do may thanks for the video
What size socket did you use?? Good video btw theres not may that show the whole process
It’s a 13/16 deep socket. Thank you for that!
Must have been a spark plug socket. Those are the only ones I've ever seen with a hex on the end...?
Hey man what did you do with the extra wires coming off the LOC. i think it is the yellow wire
The yellow wire is for the power for the LOC so I have it in with the power wire going into the amp. When I started researching that's what I found was the best thing to do. You could certainly run another wire to the battery but with the amp wiring kit it just made more sense to tap into the power that was already there. Hope this helps!
Does your amp stay on all the time? Where do you have the remote connection?
@@antoniorosaPR it does not, the LOC supplies a remote wire so when the LOC receives signal from the speaker wire it acts as a remote and turns the amp on. I have an updated video that shows a little more in depth where I have everything going. Hopefully that helps!
Hey man! Does the seat touch the subwoofer? Is that bad? Also did you ground behind the seat?
I grounded on the rear bolt mount for the factory subwoofer that is right below the seat where the carpet is cut out. Unfortunately with the box I have the seat will touch the subwoofer. I plan to get another box that is preferably downward firing or build one that is lower profile to keep it further from the seat. I have a towel that I use to keep the rear seat elevated enough to keep it off the sub since my dogs are the only ones that are back there normally. Hope that helps!
Where did you get your remote power from?
If you're referring to the remote power from the amp I have it coming from the blue wire on the LOC that is on the same side as the RCA cables. You can see this at around 3:30-3:40 in the video if you want the visual reference. I know it seems weird to not have it going directly to the head unit which is what I was used to but it is supposed to get the "remote" signal from the speaker wire. Hope this helps!
Thank you for this video. I have the Borla 40085s, and they are almost too quiet. This is similar, but smaller in diameter and not overly expensive. Might give 'em a try.
Go for it, thankfully it doesn't break the bank! I think its a great daily driver muffler. I know if I took the resonator off it would sound a good bit louder and more wild but this is plenty. Let me know what you think if you make the switch, thanks for the comment!
Any drone?
I'd say there's a small amount but with the resonator still being on it makes it bearable. Honestly I get more noise from my tires at highway speed than the muffler, but that is expected with more aggressive all terrains.
Can't you just use an amp that takes speaker input and not need the converter?
I believe so, I have not done that before so I am not very familiar with that way of doing it.
I connected eveything like usually and it keeps heating up for no reason, I changed my speakers and amp and it still heating up
I would check all your power and ground connections for the amp and the settings. If the connections aren't good that could cause it and if your settings are too high for the amp to handle it could cause it to overheat quickly. Those are the two easiest I can think of to check. Hope this helps.
Most likely a bad ground
Does ur amp overheat? Or is it just mine that overheats and cuts off
It does not, thankfully there is enough room for decent airflow to it. Do you have the same one behind the seat? if so it could be over working or there just isn't enough air flow to it.
Ford I've been loyal to the blue oval my whole life. Went through the get a set of 69 w heads work then to the max and barely flow more then a set of 68 327 fuelie heads.yeah went through that with you.and what do we get ? A bunch of GM level thought gone into working on the Yote. This is horse shit guys you owe us better!!
Yeah you guys oughta have.your asses kicked!
Amen to that! Doesn't quite make sense to me
Yeah ya know I'm born and raised in Dearborn. My entire family work for them we were so Ford blue if you came by and own a bowtie, shit you didn't pull into our driveway that's for sure. And you didn't even park Infront of our house. You parked a few houses away and walked. Thankfully we had the 427 hiriser and the Boss 302. But I'm for sure dumbfounded as to the ergonomics of the Yote. I haven't messed with the Godzilla yet so hard to say what happened there. My thought is on that, you have had 50 years of pushrod V8 experience it better be as nice to work on as it runs. ARE YOU READING THIS DEARBORN??
Just saying your the man lol everyone makes it so complicated
Thank you for that! I thought the same thing with every video I watched it made it seem more and more difficult. It is way easier than it seems if you are somewhat electrically inclined.