Відео

Nice work! I wouldn't worry or give a second thought about the mast alignment. My Melonseed Skiff has a tapered wood mast which you drop through a hole in the thick deck, and it rests in a tapered hole in the hull. The deck hole is at least 1/4 inch larger than the mast circumference. When you tack, the mast rests against the other side of the hole. It matters not in sailing performance. Thanks much for sharing your project.

Good work…good advice, especially about sanding epoxy!

Great work, as always, Captain Boat Builder! I have a question: How and with what did you make the profile in the daggerboard and rudder blade so evenly? Thanks for your expert answer, greetings from Hamburg/Germany!

Lookin great so far, The wire they sent you is rebar tie wire, You can get it at most hardware stores, If you need more. Keep up the great work sir.

I have seen people use zip ties instead of wires; have you ever tried that?

How have I missed your UA-cam channel? I am glad though that it finally came to me. I was fed your second build and had to find the first. Will there be a third? I had been considering building one in my basement also but life’s events took precedence. Perhaps I will pursue it agains, soon.

Incredibly well done paint and varnish work (and a beautiful color scheme)! I'm not even a fan of this particular Storer boat design, but this must be one of the five prettiest homebuilt boats I've seen. Congratulations on the finished build.

Great to see her sail! I watched the entire series of the build. Looks like she performs quite well. Thank you for sharing.

Wow… those joints are a really convincing reason to order the boat as a kit.

Sort of sad to see the kayak cut in half, but it looks damn good.

Good god, what a beauty!

You seem to be close to me… if I see you on the lake, I’ll shout out!

Looking great!

Congrats! She is just beautiful. Will be looking forward to launch day

Beware when transporting the boat. All bumps will exert a sharp pressure on the point where the rudder fixes to the transom. That will place constant stress on the fixings. I would rework the rear support to sit on the aft of the boat (with a little foam pad), as well having gudgeons in the rudder pivot thingy (not sure what it is called). Nice looking boat though. Out of interest, how do you plan on levelling the floor if you sleep in the boat, as your body will cross the frame sections? (I have the same problem to resolve)

finally) great you are back here! thanx!

Glad you're still following. Your comment about " seeing me IN THE WATER is probably going to be very telling.Narrow sailing canoe and declining balance skills ( age is hard to fight ) may be a tippy combination. Working on my backstroke!

Looking good Captain Knox! Can’t wait to see her, and you, in the water.

The dyneema loop for the main sheet connection to the boom looks great. I like the fairleads being on top of the boom. Are the dyneema loops braided together or is there a knot?

Great work!

hows it? are you going to continue the series? =)

I'm at this step today with my own Viola build thx for the great content! How did you bevel the "vertical framing / cleats" on the bulkhead and webbing, plans call for 5mm and 2mm bevels, I'm thinking I could just sand this down but not certain it's going to be all the accurate, or could maybe run em though the table saw with a slight angle? I think these bevels are to better match with the angle of the interior tank sides. Same Q for the transom, could b uild a jig, but maybe overkill... thx. Update: Ran the 19x19 wood through the table saw at 5 and 2degree to get the bevels, worked well! And I noticed the kit from John came with a pre beveled transom, awsome!

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Looks to me like the strips of wood either side of dagger board are not square and you used the long edge against the dagger board on one side and the short on the other..fixable..

Stems, both bow and stern may have eliminated the twisting.

As a rule when using wire: Always pull then twist and repeat. If you simply twist the wire it will become thinner and then break.

Enjoyed you build videos. She is beautiful. I think that she deserves a custom paddle and you would enjoy building it.

I do love the lines of Viola 14. Wanted to build one as first boat but decided to build a 14ft Stanley Canoe instead which turned out way too have, such that I cut it down to 10ft. This was not due to its design but the heavy type of 6mm ply I used.

Nice video. I think the texture is not necessarily the wood grain so much as air trapped in the epoxy during mixing. Mainly it can be minimized by thinner epoxy also, Storer recommends roll and tip application I believe. Tipping or dragging a brush after the roll on of wet epoxy pops the tiny air bubbles.

See you soon Captain it’s Evey

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Nice new bar! What was served for dinner?

Looking great!

Hi captain it is me evey⛵

Great video! Could you tell us what paint you used to paint the Hull? Thanks!

I appreciate your fessing up to your own mistakes! Do you think the gap between the deck and tank faces is due to overtrimming or are the Carlins too low? It doesnt seem like the tank face should be taking all the weight of whoever is sitting on the deck, no? Thanks!

The boat is coming along beautiful. I agree to leave the deck in a natural finish. Regarding screws getting stuck in cured epoxy - if you heat the head of the screw with a soldering iron you can back it out easily. Keep up the good work and videos!

I wasn’t aware that you had begun building another boat. I bought a ‘69 Gold Star travel trailer which was in very rough condition last August and have been working on it since then, with plans to take it to a vintage trailer rally this September, so I haven’t been watching much UA-cam. I look forward to catching up with your videos!

Great series thx - waiting now for the next post :-)

It’s named Viola after the partner of the co-collaborator on this boat’s design.

Another nice video. Very important fo check the near horizonal distance of the carlin is consistent. Good check! For the vertical dimension - as long as the carlin is higher than the ply then the deck camber template will adjust for height variations. Really great illustration of the camber template in action.

Oh ... yes ... the first coat of paint over epoxy sometimes does take a few days. it is very variable. The following coats should dry in the expected time.

Great observation on the tightness of the wires. i would strongly recommend concentrating on the fairness of the edges of the hull joins during assembly. Small gaps are quite acceptable. It looks to me like there was a small deviation on side of the panel being cut. If there is a wiggle then tightening the stitches too much will create a concave. But at the same time there should not be much of a wiggle in the edge of the panel. Glassing looks great.

Always good to see progress. A useful tip is that if wanting to precoat the panels to use masking tape anywhere that will be bonded later. Even around areas like the butt strap, use small pieces of masking tape and any excess can be peeled off. There is no necessity to do the panels on the face that will be outside of the hull with epoxy as it is easier when the boat is assembled. The reason the plans don't mention glassing the inside is because it is not needed and to reduce the labour required to build the boat. A good way to think about it is that if really keen for "extra" strength in the cockpit, then it is only the traffic area of the bottom that would need the extra glass. I really don't like glassing, so I reduce both the area of it and the weight of the glass in the plans. As lighter glass is much easier and faster to use than heavy - and it is still stronger than necessary :) Keep up the good work.

Magnifique travail , très instructif pour moi qui suis en train de construire un canoé !

Looking really nice. Thank you

Awesome

Why didn’t you cut the toothpicks in half ?

Looking good Knox!

A suggestion to anyone at this step: I just assembled the sassafras 12 hull and realized as labeled (port and starboard) that the puzzle joints don’t form a continuous line. You can see this between the #3 and #4 plank on your boat. If you swap the sides they will line up (at least they all did on mine) The boat is symmetrical which allows you to do this. Save yourself some frustration and line the puzzle joints up between planks before hand. Disregard CLC’s labeling for the port and starboard sides because they seem to arbitrarily put those stickers on. Sorry if this drives you nuts once you realize it. Great job with the videos, your boat looks awesome! Love the toothpick idea.