Відео

yes, current outages are exactly because of the preparations and technical maintenance campaign on the atomic power stations. Next week will be much better, since tomorrow they put 1 nuclear block back to work. but in a week they will stop another one for maintenance, and so on, after all of them receive proper yearly maintenance. but people had finally woken up, everybody who can - installs a hybrid inverter + batteries, and those who have a place to mount solar panels - do this. it is a nightmare, since actually all the inverters and batteries are already sold out, so are the panels, and even more - the supplies that are on the way - are also sold until October supplies... I guess, it will also help a lot in general, despite solar does not produce a lot in winter.

yes. that blue $80 controller (600wind/600solar version) is the perfect match for it. If the seller's combo price is the same - go for a bundle. however, in my case - I'd go separate, to reduce (or to completely eliminate) import taxes.

if you are asking specifically about the controller price - I bought two (you may have seen them in the other video). One was $94, the other one (exactly same) I managed to get for $76. so $80 is actually a great price.

well, the best to get it is to find it through your local dealer. or to buy directly on Alibaba.

I use Deye original ones, these specifically are Deye SE-G5.1 Pro

thanks, mate! what kind of EV do you have? are you happy with it? proc? cons? I am starting to look at that option as well I guess.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Hi ya, It is the Skoda Enyaq IV80, It Is lovely, Booming Stereo, Big Battery with great range, very big boot for wheel chairs and mobility scooters. Handles good with very little body roll for its weight, it's comfy and super easy to drive. Our first EV the MG ZS and it was a nightmare in comparison. This Skoda has converted me, not to save the plant, save the petrol for my Motorcycles lol. Oh one really bad on hinge is the Lane Assist function.... It panics and snatches at the wheel, it is far too intrusive and the option to turn it off is buried balls deep in the menu screens. Hope this helps mate. Slava Ukraini!

Glory to the heroes! Does your Skoda have any so to say levels of lane assist intrusion?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead No unfortunately not, it is on or off. On as default Euro Nanny rules 🤬

okay, got you

No leaks possible, as there are no water transfer lines. I use ceramic heaters which are low-consumption (6kW max instant consumption for the whole house). The house itself is quite big, 300 sqm, also, the 100kWh is only for the days when it's -15-17 Celsius outside. If it's around 0 Celsicus - the consumption for heating only is roughly 55-60 kWh. Monthly heating usage was 2300 kWh so far max (in January 2024). And well, truth is that I have not finished the insulation yet, two small things are still left to be done - the bottom part of the concrete foundation is not insulated at all at the moment, I am starting on it this month though. And also on the underroof floor there are several places where I have to apply additional 200mm mineral wool insulation, that's also the next step to help with reducing the heat loss.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I was thinking about air leaks

ah, yes, well, the ventilation is the main one... Everything else is pretty nicely sealed. If you will calculate the losses, they are great actually, given my walls and windows surfaces. 100kW per day, means 4200 kW of electric energy consumed, means, there are 4000 watts of thermal energy losses each hour (on average). And now the surface area of the windows and walls combined is 295 sqm, which results in 13.5 watts of thermal energy losses per sqm (walls and windows), and well, since the floors sqm of the house are about the same as well, it is realistically 5 times less than what is considered to be normal (80 watts of heating power for 1 sqm of room area for example).

If I do your calculation on my house that are in the Nordics then I have a heat loss of 4W sqm, so there are definitely room for improvement in your house.

let me guess - you have a heat pump? and liquid based heater-tank system then transferring heat to the radiators or to the heated floor system? correct?

Yes and no. We have a little of grid power now, and there will be almost nothing of grid power during the winter time. My observations are as follows regarding the self-cost of electricity: 1. From solar - $0.03 per 1 kWh 2. From grid we currently have $0.108 per 1 kWh 3. From wind (reality for small home wind turbines) - $0.15 per 1 kWh 4. From a diesel/petrol generator - $0.7 per 1 kWh And now consider there is no option 2, and there is very little sun, or no sun (option 1 cannot produce enough)... What is better - option 3 or 4? I will do whatever I can to reduce the usage of option 4. The winter will be tough, since currently thanks to the russians we have daily grid outage for about 8 hours per day, in winter time that outage time will be doubled... So, I am getting prepared as much as possible - adding battery capacity, adding solar capacity (2.5 kW of panels) together with the optimizers, and of course finishing my setup with the wind turbines (in the end I will have 4 kW of nominal wind power installed). Reason for this is that my DAILY winter consumption is going to be 50-120 kWh (depends on the temperature outside), since everything is on the electricity. The most consuming element is the heating.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Yes i understand you have to deal with problems that i have never had to. Any power is better when the option is none. Thank you for sharing your efforts in a difficult real world situation.

pity that such a powerful country does not do enough things to prevent and protect. I am not surprised about my country, but those serious global players with serious economics should definitely do a little bit better, otherwise I don't see the difference.

well, that was my thought as well, brick wall-up fence on the sides where there was water. it seriously helped on one side, but did not on the other one

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead it has flooded a lot of countries in europe.

yes, it is. despite some underground cables... there is no grid though, so I am on my pure autonomous mode (again).

I just saw on your other video there is a third rivet on the other side of the tail. So it would only have 2 connections if you move it down.

yes, theoretically possible. need to have a proper tool for it still

Cost? WT - 28.9 Upgrade gen - 90.3 Blades with a factory hub - 71.94 Controller - 72.34 Expected monthly production in my area 8-14 kWh. I fully understand the values and the costs, and the solar in the end is 5 times more efficient. However in winter time the wind turbine is almost as efficient as solar, and is 6 times more efficient than any fossil fuel generator (diesel, petrol)... And well, I don't have to remind you that russians have destroyed a lot of our generation capacities, so there will be very little of grid energy during the winter time. If we have constant power outages now for 4-6 hours per day, in winter that outage time will be way more.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead These are Euros prices? Is the production so low in the video because your batteries are already full? What is the expected output of the little windmill in this video?

Prices in USD. That was just a test, and there were many not properly done things, like cable too thin, tower too low and on the wind-shaded side. I'm currently in process of mounting it all correctly, check my latest video please, all the small wind turbines will gain some decent height and a proper cable too.

Expected output for the wind turbine like this (it is very similar to M3) is 8-14 kWh monthly. I claim them to be 400 real watts wind turbines. But we'll see everything in real action quite soon.

No, they don't tilt, they fold aside, since they have a foldable tail.

yes, they are for potentially up to 2.4 m diameter machines. those I have currently will be 1.65 only.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I can give you files to 3d print 2 meter diameter turbines.

Well, I don't have a place to do that. And those printers that work now - they produce drones, so are quite busy

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead printers are not expensive anymore and there is no shortage of them, I use an elegoo neptune 3 max. I print in my kitchen. at the moment I am printing a 2 meter long blade, so its for a 4 meter diameter turbine.

@@bermudatriangle2036 I will definitely think of that option, thanks for a hint!

you are welcome

how do you resolve brakes for the wind turbine if using a solar charger? the reason - one the battery is full - it will just let the turbine spin in freespin and that may cause a damage

that one has to be specified and defined by a local provider, there are a lot of components to be used, here I've explained a bit about it: ua-cam.com/video/h-Znc6a3Q9c/v-deo.html

Right before it was mounted there was a slight disbalance in 0.1V between the highest and the lowest banks. Battery bank was working literally two weeks only, and 0.1V disbalance appeared in those two weeks. At the end of the first day after the balancer was mounted the disbalance was 0.02V, and keeps like that for the tree consecutive days now. To tell you more - ask me the same question in a year )) a couple of days is not a period to give a proper judgement, but I see the trend already and I like it so far.

yes, PWM for solar definitely. as of wind - also PWM, with a low wind boost possibility. as technically there is no possibility to create MPPT for a wind turbine at all. reason - each turbine has a unique Amp/Volts ratio where it works best, so the true MPPT (goes form Maximum Power Point Tracker, and the word tracker means it has to be automatic) will have to be AI-driven I think... those don't just exist yet. The best controller is always the one that allows you building the power curve. However, in my case - it fits perfectly the generators, so will be in use for small wind turbines I have (check some latest videos, there I have it prepared already).

Yes, indeed. I am 99% happy with it.

yep. the balancer has arrived today, so I am going to pick it up form the post machine, and will likely mount it some next days. it will rearrange the voltage to be 100% equal. so far after a couple of weeks, there is a 0.04v of disbalance between the highest and the lowest 12V banks.

Thanks

Alibaba, or any of your local Deye dealer

That was the original setup 2x24v in parallel with GTI working in 24v mode. Now redone to be 48v one for GTI ( it works so much better), with charging happening by pairs of 24v. My active balancer arrives soon, it's the only component missing here.

hm... apples, peas and plums seem to be alive in my case, but given your experience I am not sure now.

Yes it is sad. I'm thinking of adding a greenhouse somewhere maybe for future.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead its easy to keep a greenhouse very warm by composting in the greenhouse. a compost heap is 60C inside for months.

yep, I thought of adding one, thus not this year already... as of warmth - will probably use the dumpload resistors from the wind turbines ))

Go for LiFePO4 DIY box like Masons or Seplos + cells Eve, CATL or Hithilum, up to your preference. The bigger you go - the cheaper it is. A friend of mine just recently bought one, 14.3 kW of storage, for $1700 only... Where to buy - Alibaba.

you are welcome

yes, I know good ones. in order to see 500w constantly you have to get 3-4 kW machine. SL-4000, or SL-5000 from this video will be exactly the ones: ua-cam.com/video/FoKUUpJMgD4/v-deo.html

hm... well in our regulations - what happens inside your internal system - is your own business and no one cares what you do there. as long as you are not breaking the rule of hourly sales limits (which are 30kW per hour for me), and as long as you are not adding more than agreed initially in the contract selling inverters (again two in my case - 20kW grid-tie Huawei and 10kW hybrid Deye). I am curious what will it look like in the end, and I have a documented scheme already, however, since it's not finished, I'm not showing it to anybody yet ))

Greetings back! Yes, I did try vertical. And now I am horizontal guy... Want to know why - I can save you a couple of months, just watch these two videos: ua-cam.com/video/JHjGGU4l73E/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/mxSDieRRcz8/v-deo.html

@@ModernUkrainianHomesteadOK I've watched the videos but that seems to be your experience of off the shelf products. VAWT is a sound principle if the product is good. You commented on the poor generators which I think is the problem. Flux axial based generators are way more efficient. I've seen way smaller VAWTs produce (transfer) much more energy than those. Robert Murray-Smith's channel is a goldmine of turbine maker's knowledge, worth checking out. It's a shame that big one didn't work out, it seems in principle to look good. I plan to make my own at some point.

@@BalticHomesteaders try it then. and show us all the result. in the end... vertical is still way-way-way less effective. since you cannot capture more energy from the wind than 16-17% out of Darrieus type, and cannot capture more than 9-10% from a Savonous type of turbines. and now compare it to even the most poorly made horizontal one with 30% of wind energy capturing effectiveness. a good one can realistically capture 40-45% of the wind energy. All I mean - VAWT can work and they do, but they have their limits, and the investment cost is not worth it, that's what I'm saying.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Don’t forget scale though, Hawt has to be huge (and high) to get those results, yes it’s possible but not for the common man. As you have some nice high towers it may well work better for you. I look forward to future videos with interest, thanks.

hawt just has to be balanced, and has to be put minimally high, say high enough to avoid turbulence. in my opinion at this exact moment, Chinese M5, M6, M8 machines might be the best value for money ratio, the only thing you have to modify with them is to slightly lengthen the tail - and it will fly. I wonder if I would want to get one at some point, who knows.

No, not at all. It's sealed. You have to look after the strange operationsl noise - if that happens than you have an immediate maintenance. All other cases - let it operate, just check the bolts and nuts tightening once per year or so.

yes, my words are true for a continental area, like mine, if you are 100-150 km away (or closer) from the sea/ocean - you may have very different wind schedules

you can't store heat for more than 2-3 days I think, it will naturally dissipate... regardless, whatever heat tank you will use, sand, earth, water or anything else. you can store energy though for a much longer period, however, it will cost enormously high, so it's easier and way cheaper at the moment of need to either buy some (if you have grid) or if you don't have grid - to produce some with high-maneurable power source (petrol or diesel generator)

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead There are relatively inexpensive methods to store annualized geothermal solar using a separate solar collector to capture heat either direct solar or using PV and resistance heaters. The collected heat is delivered to an insulated storage device (soil, gravel bed or water tank) either passively by the convection of the heat transfer medium (e.g. air or water) or actively by pumping it. I heat up the crushed glass in my insulated cistern with a biochar pyrolysis equipment outfitted with a heat exchanger so I can pump the heat into it and pull the heat out using a separate circuit of piping in the glass to feed into my hydronic underfloor heating and cooling system.

well, that is useful if you use liquid-based heating system, which I refused of due to enormously high price. I've been getting quotations for about $15-17k for the liquid-based heating for my house (175 sqm, without balconies and underroof). and in the end I managed to spend only $2.5k for the entire house heating via ceramic heaters (which are low-consumption by the way), but that sum is true for the house including balconies and underroof space... So well, for me the storing element is electricity now, and for $13-15 k saved on the heating I just got the batteries. And now my system is very easy-maintenance one, easy replacement of the failed unit, and well, it consumes max 5.7 kW once all the elements are on (and this is for almost 300sqm heated space). This is insanely low, and allows me to not worry about power outages.

Thanks, I thought about that. Don't have the prepared place for it yet, but likely will get one ready after I'm done with the house internal works and with the yard (there is still tons of work left to be done).

yep, your regulations are more strict. We have a 30kW limit now, it used to be 50 just 4 years ago... And I wonder - there are only about 60000 solar installations across my country, and in your country I bet every second roof has got panels on it.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead its not that common, I am also in the UK and an installer told me its not worth doing it if its an investment, he told me I should only do it if I care about the environment. Has it been a good investment for you?

Yes it is. Full 100% ROI for my system, together with the batteries (400 AH, LiFePO4 for 48v system) and a combo of grid-tie and hybrid inverter (20+10 kW), is going to happen in just 5.5 years. The secret is - the bigger you go - the faster the ROI is. If I'd go for 5 kW system only, ROI would've been about 15 years or so.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead In UK most people live in terraced houses with not enough land to put solar panels on the floor. to put them on the roof is a lot more expensive, I was told it can be an investment if i own a field but the installation cost is the main cost, and its much more on a tall roof.

hm. In our case, it's way cheaper to put on the roof. typically the mounts cost about $45-55 per panel if on the roof (depends a bit on the type of the roof, metal roof, ceramic roof, flat roof, there are systems for each roof type). to put on the land - the construction to be built adds a couple of grands in general. so atop to $45 per panel, you have to generally add about $2000 for a set of 20 panels for example. I'm not putting labor cost in that numbers, just the materials, since labor differs a lot from country to country. In my case, I generally end up paying $12-15 per hour for some skilled assistance (unlike it's commonly thought that labor is cheap in Ukraine), that is why I try to do a lot of stuff on my own since you can save a lot.

Yes, that's true. I ended up with 3-blades but bigger diameter for this gen.

We don't have that bad winters... This year for example we had only 4 days in January with the temp below -10 Celsius. And February was unusually warm with the average temperature of +2-3 Celsius. There was snow finally this winter in December and January, unlike the previous two winters, where the snow was immediately melting down and it did not stay at all during the winter time... So the winter is quite mild I'd say (Kyiv region). More to the south - the warmer it gets. And this turtle, it seems to be all-eating one. Insects, worms, grass, fruits, basically everything, so it's easier for them to survive. They also grow quite big, up to 23 cm in panzer diameter, I've seen a couple of older ones another day.

I've seen some parts on IstaBreeze store. Also you can find parts on AliExpress. And, some rather common pats (bearings, bolts/washers/nuts, brushes) can be found in any nearby construction supermarket.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Are the Istabreeze hybrid controllers and turbines good? Thanks

no IstaBreeze is not good, I can't recommend Reasons: 1. blades are awful in all of their turbines except the most expensive Heli ones. 2. slip rings they use in their turbines - always fail, you have to get a substitution, and that has to be not the Ista original part as it will fail again in maybe 6-9 months. 3. generators themselves - huge gaps between magnets and the coil, like x3 to what is considered normal across the industry. about controllers - they are the same chinese ones, but just with the x2 price. so no, I won't get one for myself, and won't recommend one.

I don't think so.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead i can see you have never tried to use solar energy only.

my friend - I wish you know just a little bit how to live in my circumstances. we are in a pure survival mode now. no stable grid, constant power offs caused by russian rockets, so sometimes solar is the only power source you have. so no, this is definitely not you telling me how to live with solar, or with solar only. your generator is pure "nothing" in cases where you have no place where to get gas/diesel for it. and my friends living near the frontlines have just confirmed this vastly.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead so why didn't you build a gasification system and produce abundant power.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead you can mix waste plastic in with the organics in the gasifier but because it has less carbon it will reduce the amount of power you get out of it.

may I wonder why?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Its cracked, it wont offer a water tight seal

ah, you are about the one on the S3 and updated gen - yes, I've replaced that one already.

it may, but it will likely not, given my exact climate area is continental (the nearest sea is 550 km away). Specifically what I noticed, is that in 80-85% of cases - wind turbine's working schedule is exactly the same as the solar - wind picks up in the morning , blows during the day, and dies with the sunset. and only the other 15-20% of cases are where there is something blowing constantly, and that thing generally lasts for 2-3 days consecutively.

well, to be honest, this exact case like in the video happens only like 10-15 times in a year. but those 10-15 days might be crucial.

The background is my original sound in Ukrainian, silenced a lot.

it's a "dry heating element" technology, which is absolutely fine to be used inside, and its main purpose is to be used inside (given it is IP65 class). however, truth is that this is exactly the case why you are using more sensitive differential circuit breakers for these types of "wet" rooms. and well, for me "high wattage appliance" is something that is 16A+ of current. Everything below 16A - is a standard socket-based connection. This heater is 8.7 Amps max at 230V. In wet areas however you have to use the double covers sockets though (with the cover atop, and with the small covers on the inlets themselves), which are IP 54 rated.

yes, possible to put on a roof. However, to avoid turbulence it's required to get it at least 3 meters higher the roof itself. Here is how it works on stronger winds: ua-cam.com/video/Mt0cQMKNgr4/v-deo.html Here is how it survives the hurricane: ua-cam.com/video/pP0HU4ouVeQ/v-deo.html

the seller claims it to be 1500 watts. but I know that realistic power you can get from this unit is around 400-450 watts at peak, which is pretty good for a 1.65 m diameter wind wheel. please check, I opened and unboxed it here: ua-cam.com/video/INPdJ8zhiFw/v-deo.html

Yes, I've seen only 34 watts out of it at peak some time. So - for spare parts definitely.

Thanks! I just watch others, observe the internet, check what sellers say, comprehend all the info, and then try on my own if what I thought was right. Sometimes I am right, sometimes I'm not (like with my first vertical WT for example), then I have to adjust what I am feeling about. About buying cheap - that is just the feeling when the price is good, and well, I just always use as many coupons as possible + cashback + coins + patience to wait for some "event sale"