Відео

Pretty cool coincidence right? Can only mean good things. We appreciate you taking the time to watch! -steve

Bro. We'd love to have you over to see what we have going on! And yes, I have driven a certain '67 Camaro you've built. I love watching your channel and watching you thrash that car around the track! A true testament to your build skills. Shop is always open for you! Thanks so much for watching -steve

Yeah looking forward to seeing this all come together. "Time to make the donuts" thanks for watching -steve

We are going to try and find that next gear !!! Twice a week.... Oh Boy. Me and my bright ideas..... hahahahah -steve

Mr. B. Yes believe me when I say, that under normal circumstances we will agree with that logic. However, for the sake of the exercise, we run what we got. the other engines will get the proper treatment. This engine is literally a play thing

hey steve... yeah propane torch...tried that - no go . ended up soaking in PB for a week or so, and letting pb run down the groove and behind the ring. the ring came out in small pieces. The engine that piston came out of was stuck for a long time. The ring grooves will certainly be cleaned and checked. no way to effectively clock the ring without being able to easily spin the rings right? We will be sure to measure each cylinder again, after final hone along with each corresponding piston. Currently the ring gap is on the wide side of spec. we are using 3 arm stone hones. don't own a ball hone. Thanks for watching and sharing some tips. we appreciate your participation. -steve

sorry. no machine shop for this one.

@ If the gaps are too wide you can always get file fit rings. And yes, clocking the rings is important. Good luck with the build!

Oh nice. yeah they seem nice enough . sure are fun to have around -steve

Well Thanks Very Much for this. So glad that you were able to get something out of this! We are all in the same boat... Thanks for playing. -steve

Good morning. Yes, absolutely there is a front anti-sway bar, part of the originally equipped RPO FE2 . I just haven't gotten to it yet. Thanks for watching! -steve

Yeah my friend, not all that fun. We could've gone with repop Imported units but that's even less fun. Thanks for watching. so honored to have you on board. -steve

Ok, very good tip. Often what I did was simply plug away at it with a pointed body hammer. (after sand blasting) That'll show you the weak spots for sure. If those two methods aren't effective enough, the 'ole welder certainly helps locate the thin metal. Your way sounds much more civilized . send us an email of your work. the address is in the channel description. Hope to hear from you again, -steve

Hello Ken. Thanks very much for tuning in and for extending that compliment. We purchased the necessary line clips from "In-Line Tube" . Easily found on line. -steve

Hey there. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch some of our channel. We appreciate that!! Nothing against Fords.- You know we have a 66 Mustang right?. Wow you've had your car longer than I've had mine - (Bought mine at 15 and I'm now 51) Very cool!!! Would love to learn about your car, Your Grandfathers sound like cool guys, so where'd the Ford thing come from? We are happy to know that you enjoy watching this project. Please help spread the word. -steve

We appreciate your question... I guess the short answer is, for the same reason that we are re-using most of what we have.... for the sake of archaeology maybe? maybe budget? certainly for the fun of it. Thanks for watching . -steve

@ I understand all that and I certainly appreciate the overall approach to this build. I just seriously dislike the looks of a worn out looking car. An old car looks really worn out when it’s laying down and has lost its stance. You’ve taken other steps, like adding paint to the frame, I really hope you reconsider when it comes to the springs. Again, I promise you I’m not being critical. I’m not being disrespectful. I love what you’ve done with this car and I love the idea of keeping it as original as possible, yet restoring the reliability of the car.

I dig how passionate you sound like you are about our "ole Mr Jones. I love it!! I wish I could say that we'll take some of your suggestions under advisement but, for this project, the course has long since been plotted. You may change your mind a bit. please keep in mind what we started with..... stay tuned. Thanks again, -steve

lol , Steve I really do love the whole premise behind this build. You bull headed gear head you. Lol waiting patiently for the next segment.

Hahaha Thank You so much for playing along and well played at that ! -steve

Funny, I've gone the other way, for me the clear always yellows. This coating seems to have been holding up on the convertible pretty well. My car has some cleared parts and yes, yellow and cloudy. loctite - of course

@ I let me finished chassis sit in a cold shed for a year as I worked on other items and the Boe Shield didn’t protect my parts (pissed me right off actually and I would never buy that stuff again)

Thank You!

Hello there!! Hahah I knew you'd know where I was coming from there. Yeah I'v actually seen the upper control arms only painted at the ball joint end and only overspray on the bushing end. These original control arms are just a bit too funky to not have a nice layer of "make-up" on them. We agree, they look better all painted. We (Big J) are going to do our best to load Joe up with content and footage. Lets see how this all goes.. Thanks for you encouragement. -steve

yeah man! cool stuff. Are you building the car too or just the engine? In the early 90's I had a customer with a late 80's (second series) Morgan plus 4 , 2 seater The only Triumph experience I have is with a TR6 and actually a TVR - admittedly I was not proficient on either one. I love this kind of talk!! Thanks for sharing -steve

@@theautorefinery Just getting the car to be drivable. It's a 1961 Morgan Super Sport. It was my fathers. He got in 1969 from a friend who needed a daily driver, so they traded. It's been sitting ever since. It's my brothers now.

Of course, I don't know everything. Doesn't, the N cast into the snout throw weight mean nodular iron? You can see the casting seam, in the snout throw weight. Factory forged cranks are typically ground, at the seams. Please, correct me, if I'm wrong. Used, to mess with late 60's Pontiac engines. Always, understood "N" crankshafts were nodular iron. Maybe, I completely misunderstood.

Yes, the big N means nodular iron. I have an internal balance 330 forged crank in my Olds 350, looks quite a bit different.

N is nodular. Only 330s came with forged cranks. These "N" cranks are very good cast pieces

I concur, N is for Nodular Iron, It can also be found cast into some rear diff housings from this beloved era. Thanks for playing along with this guys. -steve

@@theautorefinery I thought the check mark shape notch on the back of the crank was a Forged crank.

Yeah, I'm thinking it'll do just fine for what we're going after here. -steve

Hey Mr. B Glad you feel you got something out of it. Always plugging along on something over here. ...until next time. -steve

Did you check out our video on the core support mounting measurements we did recently for another viewer? Are those the measurements you need? -Joe

@@theautorefinery i need the actual rad mount brackets to support but mine is a 4 core rad should be close

Hi there and thanks for watching so closely. I can take a look tomorrow and let you know. -steve

@@theautorefinery gret work. love the detail. once you get the color, please let me know. I can't tell from my speckles of green on mine.

OH NO!!! I completely bailed on you. I'm sorry. I'm down in the garage now and will look now. Remember that I simply used a Benjamin Moore paint from my local hardware store. Give me a few ...be right back. -steve

OK The Code number from the color swatch is 2046-20 Garden Green. Take a look at that and please let me know what you come up with. I really appreciate your patience. -steve

@@theautorefinery its all good you're doing me the favor. thank you. your videos are verry helpful.

Hey there Brian! I like your optimism for sure... but Mr Jones will not be done this year I'm afraid. This engine build is just for fun. we should definitely try and put something together. Me and and the OG ( and John ) are always ready to cruise!! -steve

No kidding? I guess press fit wrist pins are a perfect place for semi-permanent binding to happen. Thanks again for playing along. We appreciate it! -steve

OH NO!!!! That's a nightmare. Well, we will do our absolute best to avoid that!! Thanks for sharing and watching. -steve

And have it just blend in with all the other restored musclecars out there? Nah. we're good thanks. It's a good thing we're terrible at taking direction. Otherwise we may have been inclined to body swap it or even part it out. Thanks so much for watching and playing along. We appreciate your participation. -steve

@ no that’s a fairly rare car plenty worth the work… but what’s wrong with fresh paint??? Or my comment I wasn’t telling you what to do bro so the attitude isn’t aprisheated.. it was a suggestion… you did a great job with the wheel well lips just to leave a rusted pin hole directly above it you just going to leave it to rot and the great patch work you done yall just gonna leave it raw to rot????

Tell me where that makes any sence???

I’m sorry, what makes sense is that when I bought this car we weren’t completely sure how exactly to attack this piece. I had a vision from the get go when I brought the car home, I wanted to be able to drive this car and not worry about having to care for a mint 15-20k paint job because if it were to get painted it wouldn’t be some tractor paint job in our backyard. I’d rather cut out as little of the rot as possible where we just crest into salvageable metal to attach new metal on and make it a complete car again without going overboard. The tiny stuff like a pinhole here and there isn’t going to matter the way I care for my stuff. I don’t drive anything of value in inclement weather and it’ll never sit outside unless it’s being driven. If you saw how meticulously I maintain my other vehicles if there was a pinhole of rust on something it would stay that same pinhole of rust for 55 years and never get worse. I appreciate all the people who love this car and the fact we’re crazy enough to save it but I enjoy saving old, and original paint and maintaining it instead of just cashing in and giving in to putting fresh paint on it. Trust me I’ll keep this paint in better condition than the person who goes out and buys a brand new 2025 whatever and keeps it for the next 10-15 years. Wait till it’s all finished, you’ll be satisfied, trust me. -Joe

@ I’m already satisfied you’ve done a great job… your car man I was just making a suggestion is all lol.. thanks for the reply back :) I can tell you care for your cars aloght better than most in the same way..

I agree completely. Thanks for watching as always. stay tuned -steve

Hello there and Thank You for watching and for sharing that "recipe" with everyone. Sounds truly killer! However, it certainly doesn't comply with what our objective is for this exercise, Unless maybe you have all of those ingredients already "in stock" Could be a fun game we start. Thanks again for watching. -steve

Hey. now here's someone who get's what we're trying to do here. Thank You! Hopefully we can make this happen. Wish us luck. Until next time, -steve

You have skill. Luck is secondary. Can't wait to hear that 350 fire up!

Thanks so much for the vote of confidence. As soon as we get through the build , we need to build a run stand. That's the main goal here.!! -steve

Oh man, that great! Good for you! I'm so glad that Joe kept that little line in the video. What a cool topic. Old tools that we still use!!! Thanks again, -steve

I hadn't heard that. I do know that there were several different foundry locations but assumed the "wheel" icon was maybe used identify "automotive" use vs. industrial or other types of use. So do you think that each foundry had their own logo / symbol? Interesting stuff. Thanks for this comment. I'll do some research on this. -steve

@@theautorefinery my guy of knowledge that has forgotten more about Olds than I will ever know just clued me in on the wagon wheel symbol the other week ... any Olds casting with the wagon wheel came from Defiance Ohio and he made mention that every foundry did in fact have there own identity symbol... and I was just by the Defiance plant today ,,, interesting world...close to me there are several Olds guys and several parts hoarders...

ok great ill check the other blocks in the morning

Hey Thank You!! We are happy to have you along . Thanks for watching. -steve

well.....great question......so here's the thing. One cannot just put the camera in the tripod, one needs to also press the "record " button. I was telling Joe that here I was, honing away, talking to the camera only to the realize ....... UGH!!! yeah so that didn't go as planned. I'll try and do better. I promise. Thanks for watching and for pointing out my epic failure!!! hahahah -steve

@ I can only imagine restoration with video, it’s difficult enough on its own!!!

ah yes... the ole Liquid Wrench. I was just as Lowes and they have plenty of that in stock!

yes, they've been soaking in PB. I love that stuff...... "I put that s..t on everything." WD is a great parts cleaner! Thanks for tuning in! -steve

Good tools yield good memories right? Good stuff! thanks for taking the time to share that with us. Very cool Thanks for watching, -steve

Good morning. We have other plans for the real L74. No shortage of those around here, in addition to both W-31's, the convertible, the Rallye and the QB. All too happy to attempt to getting this one running as an L65. This is intended to be a fun in house build. Thanks for watching -steve

Ha! PS I love it we have Q-Jets and Holleys for everything here. A whole box of rebuild kits and parts. I spent so much time on carbs this past summer and didn't record anything.