Відео

@@turbo7680 No issues at all. We even got through Hurricane Beryl and it didn't move an inch.

@user-yp5iy7yn7m yup. If you run into any issues let me know.

@darryljohnson185 you're most welcome

Great video btw ty

@JimmyWalters Thanks. I try to keep them short and to the point. If I get long winded in the future. Feel free to call me out.

Only the Euro model gets washers.

@bumblebvr6

@thiagodias567 just one? Or 4? Do you have a link to the magnet? 1.69 sounds like it may be too small. But if you already have them it's worth a try.

No, I would use 4 like you did, just to keep the Starlink on the roof of my RV against the winds while the RV is parked. The store says that the 1.69 magnet promises to hold 8kg each. @@txfatmarine4583

@captainotto Thanks for the comment. I don't know how it's done commercially. This is how I do it. It seems to hold up. I've left a bolt out on an outside work table and it still looks the same. It's been sitting for about a month so not exactly a torture test. All the other parts I've done are in mostly protected conditions. One of the people that commented mentioned he had a client with a commercial buisness black oxide coating parts. He said he would show the vid to his client. Hopefully he will post an update.

@devinjunga2716 hope it helped.

Thanks @aussiefarmer8741

@itchykneeson I'd like that feedback from an actual pro.

What's card them? @independentthinker8930

@@txfatmarine4583 it's done several ways, fine still wool rubbing it is a common way, gunsmith get an exceptionally soft wire brush to speed it up

Lol. I know right.

@vincentvega5686 first off. Big fan of your name btw. And thanks. I'm trying to keep these things short.

I have a small concrete project coming up. You wipe it on with a rag? How do you apply it to the form? And do it right before you pour?

@@txfatmarine4583 For regular 2x4s, you can use a sprayer, but may need to dilute it. I just brush it on with a large inexpensive "chip" brush from hardware store. I have used the same brush over and over.

@@txfatmarine4583 Oh, I brush it on the day before, once forms are set. Best to use screws to reuse your 2x4 forms. 👍

@@Pallidus_Rider that's good info. I'm logging that down.

@scottjenkins4613 Thanks. I like making the videos. But it takes SO much longer to get "a thing" done.

@bumblebvr6 Thanks Buddy Lee. We need to go back to the track!

Thanks @coldwarvet607. I haven't done a torture test for the durability but I need to. The bolts I coated are all under the hood of an old truck. In the engine bay. They still look exactly the same. I plan to set a couple outside exposed to the sun & rain and see how well they hold up. Appreciate you taking the time to comment.

​@@txfatmarine4583 Blacksmith here. I do tons of heat treating and rust prevention treating. Its ok if you get your bolts up to cherry red depending on whether they are mild steel or medium to high carbon. Mild steel /Low carbon dont worry about it. Anything more, and it will be good to temper then back down to usable levels. And yet, you can get bolts to yellow (beyond cherry red), or even 5/8" x 2.5" wide thick steel using two propane torches, with one being at least a TS4000. You can do the blackening with used canola oil too (or any veg oil). Just heat to a black heat, quench, do again until you get the coverage you desire.

@madmanmapper Thanks for taking the time to comment. And yeah I still mostly don't wear gloves. I just burned the crap out of my hand with a heat gun melting heat shrink. I'm going to try and do better so I can keep doing this stuff as long as possible.

Exactly, gloves have their place, but around moving machinery they are a safety hazard.

Agreed. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

You probably shouldn't use motor oil on a skillet though... ;)

@timdeboer8804 Better than the old brick on the gas. Pretty cool. Thanks for the explanation.

@matthewq4b You maybe right. Maybe not. I googled bluing and black oxide before making the vid so I could try to get the wording correct. I found several processes seem to fall under the "black oxide" banner. I appreciate you taking the time to post. And if my wording does end up being wrong or not the best way to say it. I want to know that so I can correct it.

@@txfatmarine4583 There is no maybe not. What you are doing is NOT black oxide. Also Bluing and Black Oxide are essentially the same thing... Again what you are doing is NOT adding a layer a Black Oxide to the surface simple as that. You are just deasoning the bolt with a coating of carbon and nothing more..

@@matthewq4b We will have to agree to disagree. Thanks for sharing your opinion. I appreciate all the comments.

@@txfatmarine4583 I have been doing bluing and parkerizing for near on 40 years now. You are NOT putting a black oxide coating on the bolts simple as that... Disagree all you want all want, it does not change the fact that you are not putting a black oxide coating on the bolts no matter how hard you want to convince yourself otherwise.

@matthewq4b Again Thanks for the passionate responses. I'm not challenging you or your 40 years of experience. On the contrary. I'd appreciate it if you teach me a better way. I hope you make a video of how you do it and Link me.

This may be your truck! Lol. It's a straight 6 that someone converted to a floor shift. I'll be making videos as I progress along with the truck. I gotta ask. What's Farmer's cruise control??

@timdeboer8804

@@txfatmarine4583 I think it's a manual choke cable attached to the throttle.

Thanks @kerrygibbs8198

Interesting. Why salad oil? Just to see?

@@txfatmarine4583 Yeah, I just wanted to see. It works, you get a black rust proof coating, but it's a messy, uneven surface. I mean, if you have nothing else...

@mikethespike7579 Another comment mentioned heating the object to be coated in the oven. I think I'll try that next time. I think the results will be more easily repeated. I'm curious about the salad oil. I guess it's just to thin of an oil. Or doesn't have enough carbon? I guess you did this with bolts? Have they rusted?

@@txfatmarine4583 It would have to be a really hot oven of course. Not just a kitchen oven. Yeah, an oven will offer you controlled temperatures and repeatable results. I don't know if salad oil is too thin. Someone on UA-cam showed how he coats stuff using WD40. Salad oil has all kinds of other stuff in it, not just oil, that probably mess up the results a bit. But it was an interesting experiment and does give a protective surface. If you have nothing else just use salad oil LOL. Yeah, I just did some nuts and bolts. I had nothing better to do at the time.

@@txfatmarine4583 You asked about salad oil, I made a personal test with it, and with many other REAL type of oil for rust proofing for experiment. That I have at my home. My test was only applying oil (No heating as you done). Then let the tested iron bar with all brand on it outside in my Québec Winter. Result I got, very few trace of rust with salad oil too after the winter on my test bar. This said, like Mikethespike say, messy because this oil become too sticky to my taste with outside water or even humidity but it protected too from rust too, just little less in this test compared to others I made, to give you the result of my test.

Thanks man. I pretty much have no idea what I'm doing. Any tips/help is much appreciated. When I first saw your comment I thought. Man, what is this? Somebody trying to sell me something already? Then I clicked on your @eyespyfocus and I saw a huge CH53E model. I used to work on those in the Marines. Anyway, lol. That CH53 compelled me to write all this. I've been reading the book "Shogun" by James Clavell before this new mini series comes out. They talk about Karma alot in the book. You have good Karma my friend. Good timing.

Wrong , he is not heating it up that hot

It is the same as seasoning a cast iron skillet the coating will not last very long in the elements though...

@cryptotron Maybe. Maybe not. The bolts I used are in an engine bay. They still look good. I've pressure washed in the engine bay once. But they have not been exposed to any continuous water. I keep meaning to leave one outside and see what happens. Thanks for taking the time to post.

Brent I'd prob use something like Eastwood's rust encapsulator. Roll it on and use a brush for the tight spots. There's other brands out there. I've used Eastwoods before and it holds up pretty well.

You would probably set your truck on fire!

Thanks @johnkozero6842. Ultimately I hope to use this channel as updates on a C10 truck project. I'm using this time to practice making vids. I may make another black oxide vid using another technique.

The metal is so thin. If you run a continuous bead it will distort. @giantd

Yea you might melt a hole in it. With my stick welder you would have to be careful to remove the slag to get a continuous weld like that, that looks to be a great benefit to mig. I see that on the car shows all the time.@@txfatmarine4583

You can do it with stick welding also @giantd

Lmfao

Google Bluing & Black Oxide. Essentially the same thing.

It's not actually either, it's a layer of oxidized oil that your coating the stuff with. Not really important though. it looks pretty much the same and resists rust pretty well too. It's a pretty easy way to get a nice black coating

@@asbestosfiberQuestion: how does this wear or look after you put a socket or wrench on it?

I used to do this years ago. Looks real sharp but doesn't stand up to wrench pressure or oxidation either. The more coatings you put on the more brittle it becomes. Used oil out of a diesel engine gives the blackest coating though.

You'll shoot your eye out!

I wear a full face shield anytime using wire wheels.

@@flyingfarm1 I should also. I'm really trying to be better with my PPE

@@txfatmarine4583 I've had them most places on my upper body. I have a thick bush of hair on my head, and once I found one that had pierced into my skull skin quite deeply. Hurt more once it was out, than what it was in. Never even felt it go in.

Because that IS oxide coating. This is not.

I'll try it.

It holds up pretty well. All the bolts I've done are protected from direct exposure from the elements. They still look the same. I also tried brass coating and left one bolt on my outdoor work table. The brass has started to rust. I need to leave a black oxide bolt out on the table also and let you know.

Lol

Send me one. I'll test it.

Good idea. I may try the oven method in the future. I can see how the results would be easily repeatable.

Yes, he is ruining the original temper, but not that much. It all depends on the use of the bolt. If you can see, he is heating it to a blue color, so it still IS a tempering color. It's not unusual to temper bolts to a blue color and this is around 280C - 310C Last but not least. It's not making them more brittle, but more ductile. Hardened steel is brittle. Tempered becomes more springy, ductile, so for many applications it is more desirable, especially with bolts. This is all assuming those bolts are made of a carbon steel used for hardening. Check a diagram for FE-C content.

The bolts I used in the video hold an engine bay cover in place on a 1966 C10 truck. I appreciate the comments. It's good information. I'm learning from you guys and also trying to encourage others to try something new.

@@txfatmarine4583 If it's just a cover, I wouldn't sweat. If those were used in fixing the engine block, that could be a problem. I wouldn't heat up any bolts that needs fixing with a torque wrench. And if you need to heat them up to unscrew... Exchange. Everything else is a common sense - covers, small constructions, not much force - have fun. Bigger contructions, bolts with a specific torque - no heat. Steel is an amazing material and also a very difficult one. If you would like to find out a bit more, there is a ton of information about it on blacksmithing channels. But one I found very useful was a clip on one physics channel made by Steve Mould: ua-cam.com/video/xuL2yT-B2TM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SteveMould Stay curious 😉

Txfatmarine, I salute you for your patience in dealing with these idiotic comments. KJ7JHN tells you that you're killing the temper when you heat them to the 400 that you state in your video, but then proceeds to tell you to heat them repeatedly to 400. Hahaha I can ASSURE that 400 ain't doing dick to the temper. We use basic ass, grade 5 bolts on 1500psi steam flanges. Probably the same grade you got there. And we use them because that's the engineering spec. And we reuse them for decades. They're getting WELL beyond 400. So dude, keep on coating. Your bolts will definitely last longer without rust than they would have before. And let KJ7JHN take his grapeseed oil and go season a cast iron skillet and then bake us a cake with it.