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Since you have a mill why didn't you cut a flat on the shaft? I'm genuinely curious.

It appears that you used JB Kwik which is a fast cure epoxy (also note that it's black). JB Weld slow cure epoxy (which is gray) takes an hour or so to even begin to start to think about curing (😉) and in the time that it remains liquid it will flow down into the voids under its own weight, displacing trapped air. If you have a hot air pencil that can be set to a low temperature/low pressure, you can also use that to help blow and flow the apoxy into the voids; the heat will temporatily thin the epoxy but then accelerates the curing process.

Very nice job! I've done similar repair/reinforcement in the past, but I've never been impressed with so-called "plastic fusion" epoxies, which typically don't fuse to the types of soft plastics that are most likely to require repair, have a softer, rubbery consistency when cured, and stink to high heaven from MEK or whatever solvents it contains. The plastic fusion glues also seem go bad in storage more quickly than ordinary epoxy glues, even if the tube/dispenser is unopened, because the solvents manage to leak their way out (a sealed metal tube is probably more trustworthy than a clear plastic dual syringe dispenser). An ordinary slow cure epoxy would work best: JB Weld, Devcon 2-ton etc. If somebody doesn't have access to a milling machine for grinding notches into the metal insert, a Dremel tool equipped with a carborundum grinding or cutting bit will rough up or grind slits/notches into the sides of the insert and remove sufficient anodizing for the glue to bond to it (an ordinary file would work if that's all you have on hand). At the very least, however most people will find it difficult to do this without use a drill press; getting the insert perfectly perpendicular and concentric before the glue sets is the hard part, and It's very helpful to be able to remove the center of the plastic knob cleanly and concisely with a drill press versus doing it by hand with the Dremel tool. PS, I have a video about using epoxy and other adhesives (UV-curing glues, specialty CA/"Super" glues, etc) on my channel. I have been using epoxy glues for about 55 years and therefore It amazes me how many people have never used epoxy; I am a volunteer with the local Repair Cafe group and it surprised me thst many of the other volunteer repair people ( "fixers") had never used an epoxy glue either, so I've been instructing them. By the way, if ordinary epoxy glue is a little bit old and starts to gel and thicken, you can sometimes soften and liquifiy it sufficiently to use by putting it in the microwave for 5 seconds at a time, or dunking it in a cup of really hot water. Obviously you can only "nuke" it if it's in a plastic bottle or tube because a metal tube would spark and arc; and I only do it with a clear epoxy because grey or black JB Weld containing powdered steel might also react in the microwave. Metal squeeze tubes of epoxy would need to be dumked in hot water to liquify the glue more, but in truth I've never experiencedJB world sitting around here unused for long enough to start curing or gelling on it's own inside the tube!

A good way to free up a sticky or frozen rotary switch is to heat the shaft of it up with a hair dryer or heat gun and apply a little bit of penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the bushing; the heat drives expanded air out, and when the shaft cools a vacuum is formed and sucks the penetrating oil in between the shaft and bushing. I had a Dynaco PAS3 preamp with a completely frozen rotary input-selector switch (with at least 4 or 5 switch wafers); repeated applications of heat and penetrating oil, plus visegrip leverage, freed it, and I didn't have to disassemble anything.

Thanks for the info!

Another thing to try , I picked up a Heathkit HM-102 that needed a good cleaning. I had a bottle of plastic headlight polish and used that to clean up the paint. Did a very nice job. I was careful cleaning the lettering with nice results. FWIW Carl AB1ZI

AES has some brass inserts that I used to make a replacement thumb wheel on a Heathkit tube tester. That took a bit of manual work to get the hole size just right in the 3-D printed part. Bottom line: metal insert plus the right adhesive for the win.

What a nice gift of showing how to do this love this channel and really beneficial really enjoy you channel appreciate you time and effort and kindness too 73s wb7qxu

Thanks Darren

Well done Darren. I saw the Part 1 Video when it first came out and decided to come back to them. I watched Part 1 thru Part 8 in one sitting a week after Part 8 was published. The DX-60 was my first transmitter along with a VF-1 VFO. I have much more I can tell but will look for a link to email. Best of luck with the new toy. 73s and best DX de Bob AA6XE

Great job! defiantly lots of work there I have dx 60 on the shelf waiting for me to get restore, you may have inspired me to get started I have The HG-10 VFO as well it be great to see a video on that

Adrian Looks so new wow nice job great attention to detail Loved this series and really like the content on your amazing channel Looking for the next enjoyment. Thanks for making the video for the rest of the Ham community really enjoyed this. I remember this xmitter from the 70s popular in my Novice days. I used a DX20 back then. 73s wb7qxu

Love this. I built a DX 60 as a new Novice at age 14 in 1961! The next year I built a HG-10 VFO. Wish I had kept it but had to sell it to get a Viking Ranger II , which I still have in good working order.

Thanks fo the videos!👍🏻

Believe it or not, Ace hardware has really nice chicken head knobs! They have instrument knobs for sale in the area where they sell nuts & bolts. If you check it out, you would be surprised and I think the kind I have in mind would look beautiful on this beautiful transmitter!

Excellent job! I enjoyed following along with your refab. The HG10b VFO would be a excellent addition and it works fantastic! looking forward to the next video!

Building a SA is one of the most difficult pieces of test equipment you can build. The spurs that you have is probly coming from your 1st mixer. You will need a trap to lower the 2nd harmonic of you 1st LO. You did a magnificent job.

What I did on my SA is, all modules have isolated power regulation from the RF section. All RF modules have zero lead length. All power leads are feed through filters. The amp after your Log Amp should have the lowest noise possible and be able to adjust the DC offset from your Log Amp. I have built my boards dead bug style with very minor problems.

I was looking at your board layout. Why are you using etch tracing for ground of decoupling caps. At HF you have a series inductor. ALL caps used for decoupling should be at the pin of the device or a short as possible the ground plane. I have laid out boards with 70 to 100 Db of AGC gain with no oscillations.

I built my Spectrum Analyzer with modern parts with some changers. First I am using parts that I accumulated over the years. My SA is a triple conversion. 1st IF is 200 Mhz, 2nd IF is 70 Mhz and 3rd IF is 10.7 Mhz. The 1st filter is are 2 helical filters at 200 Mhz with buffer amps in between. The reason for 2 is because the image frequency was not was not attenuated enough with just one. All the amplifiers are MMIC some from Motorola and some from Mini-Circuits. To adjust the levels and for matching parts of the signal paths I am using attenuating pads. Since I have so many scopes I have rebuilt one just for my SA. I can set my scale for 1Db, 5Db and 10Db/ div. My RBW is the same as standard SA. I have 3 frequencies I use for calibration 10Mhz and 50Mhz and 100Mhz

I noticed you didn’t place the ground of the oscillator cathode on a relay. I’ve been talking to Phil on the QRZ forum about that as the oscillator runs constantly when in AM or CW mode. I may attempt using a D-Lab K1 board to switch that.

How did you cut the hole for the IEC 120v connector? Do you have a custom knockout punch or did you drill and nibble?

About the mic distance thing, that's only a matter of the capsule polar pattern, not whether it's dynamic or condenser type. All mics benefit from being closer because you're raising the SNR, but a more focused polar pattern aimed directly at your mouth gets more signal per distance.

Nice restoration! That was my first TX used with a Lafayette HE30. Keep up the restorations! 73 - KF6IF

Really does look great! Well done!

Amazing progress love the adventure thanks wb7qxu

It would have been instructive if you had shown how you determined the frequency responses of the two filter boxes against the ideal computer model. What methods and equipment did you use? How might a viewer do the same? What physical principles does this demonstrate? To not show us these details reduces your video to the level of a show and tell.

Thanks for another great Level Up video. I do have a few observations if you have any interest. 1) Crinkle and other textured paints generally take more time to really cure than other paints. When I use these types of paints, I leave the item in my shop oven at ~110 F for 2 - 3 days and that really sets the paint. Or during the late Spring through mid Fall, leave the item on a piece of cardboard for 2 - 3 days in the sun. The paint should be cured enough that bugs don't get stuck, die and deform the area. With regards to the small scratches around the line holder, you could simply touch-up that area with some of the paint, hopefully, left over. It will eventually cure and be less thick looking. Still, I'd spray a little paint in a 1 oz medicine cup, like the ones which come with cold meds etc, Then add ~30% thinner and use a foam applicator and touch down on the scratch area. 2) The meter replacement, IMHO, takes away from the appearance and personality of the DX60. As mentioned earlier, a simple circuit to get the meter to swing from end to end at ~1sec per full swing cycle and left to run a few hours or overnight has fixed a number of issues I've had with different meters which were stuck somewhere in their travel. I was not able to determine if the problem was oxidation, or debris related but it cleared the problem(s). I set up my circuit where I could increase the swing V and travel fast enough to not bang either end/stop; as you know meters vary and re set-up is needed between meter types. As I recall, this kind of problem was nicknamed Stickation (sp???) 3) as you know, buying replacement canned caps now days is easy from several suppliers, though pricey. Have you tried carefully cutting the bottom flange off a can with a Dremel tool using a diamond dust impregnated cutting wheel then taking a propane torch to heat the outside of the can for ~ < than a minute? Using a wine easy-out, the core of the old cap will slide out. While the can is still hot fold blue shop towels into a round wedge and get most of the black tar/goop out of the can. Once I stuff good quality caps, I use JB weld to reseal the flange and use the Dremel tool with a sanding wheel, clean up the slop. Sounds like a lot of work but I can usually go through the process in ~15 - 20 minutes if I have everything needed to do the job at hand. If you have interest in trying this send me an email glenn@dsmlabs.com and I'll mail you a can to experiment on b4 you do the DX60 can you have. Overall, your project looks great. The added pcbs are not stock but more akin to the Sherwood mods for the Drake R4C, looks very professional. Here is a link to an Easy-out like the one I use. The neat thing is it has a shoulder of the perfect size to fit over the top of most canned caps and EASILY slides the old goo out. Just remember it'll still be hot. I handle it with folded blue shop towels and a heat resistant glove on one or both hand(s). I always do this kind of work outside to limit my exposure to fumes released while heating the can. www.amazon.com/Vintage-Bottle-Opener-Creative-Corkscrew/dp/B088TGQRPV/ref=sr_1_10?crid=61RQKAHM6X2T&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jNXwwy_mlTAQ7yHKiVB0TmeAurCyoNZ0_pt7I-4WUCqlJF-0LP1q1TULA9v8sehxE5HDO8uTh5VbaVIyyBOBDIGztz1EJFDV6Z22CkL8lvjbeaK7q1S85_BbaLn_LO9P7pkT9uEWBQ0o5lWyVQtjJA8ZxHYzsX1cJZo4sxSJFbvWT5p8j6l_geP7Uu9HmhEbT3AG7HrJtkCfIUsvaNKNTPGNJE_0LQ20-garWa3vwwzX_KoBWF4kXof_Qb7ZSb0Qh2sluLA8IEQxLSG5mQXpKM8c156WJPgljDwlDtM7MgU.B099eUV7TOq-RJaegnlKjt9WLRsxytW4y5BVmzt3HBA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Vintage+Lever+Corkscrew+Cap+Lifter+Chrome&qid=1724437968&sprefix=vintage+lever+corkscrew+cap+lifter+chrome+%2Caps%2C75&sr=8-10 73, Glenn WA4AOS

Thanks fo the videos! Amazing restoration!

During Covid, I got bored and went after an old SB101 that a friend gave me. He couldn't get it working. With regard to painting the cabinet, I did that and it turned out perfectly. I will note the SB101 cabinet is mostly perforated with small holes for ventilation and sanding it and using paint remover would plug up all of those little holes. At first, I took the chassis out of the cabinet. I then took the cabinet to a sandblasting place and had them remove all of the paint. As you mentioned, Heath didn't use a primer before painting. I found a very close match with finish and color using Krylon Fusion All In One paint and primer. The color"Matte Pale Sage" was a very close match to the Heathkit green and the cabinet turned out beautiful. Yes, I got the rig working. It had an initial mis-wired power supply and a bad solder connection in the AGC circuit. I ended up giving it back to the person that originally gave it to me in working condition. He rekindled his interest in amateur radio along with his son. Over twenty years later, he had his original Heathkit in working condition, looking like new.

Listen to WWV . . . but why?

I bought a TR3 (used) from Henry Radio back in the early 70's. I found its matching network wasn't very "forgiving" with less than perfect SWR. I ended up trading it in for a new Swan 350C and found the Swan's matching network was far superior to Drake's. The Drakes are beautiful instruments and I have reconstructed my novice station with a Drake 2NT which is an excellent CW transmitter. I've paired it up with a Hammarlund HQ110 which was also my novice receiver.

I would like to see more detail on how you selected the RF transformer and also how you calculated the Capacitance need for the frequency of interest. While on that top the same detail would be appreciated on selecting the capacitance around the crystal. Thanks for a very informative video.

And what is the "ageing rate" for CC resistors? Do they continue to change or does the change rate slow down after a decade or two. Can you parallel aged CC's to get the value you need, or does this add too much reactance? I await your study. 👍

Great video! Great info! That DX 60 is going to be better than ever!

Nice update wonder how you etch your boards. Great update and nice explanation on carbon comp resistors

it is a delay circuit for the relay

Nice and I plan on building it with one exception. I will use a wire form romex between the SO connectors to get it stability.

Very Nice job with old wiring and really helpful and enjoyed it . thanks Mike

Great Job! Great series!

amazing .

I've been thinking about making a new harness for my HW-100.

I learnt to do lacing using nylon waxed cord, in the end used to love doing it. used to make the cableforms for avionic equipment that went in to the cockpit. it was broken down in to lots of stages, and after every stage it had 100% inspection. 1. cut, strip and tin wires. 2. put on ident sleeves. 3. solder wires to any sockets. 4. put heatshrink on socket connection and shrink. 5. lay wires on to wiring pin board for that harness. 6. finally get to lace the harness. i was about 17 at the time and it took quite a few weeks to get to the point of not getting a laced harness rejected by inspection. 🙂

So glad you decided to lace the harness. I have redone harnesses in Collins and Drake gear and as you mentioned the process moves along quickly. I really enjoy your channel and look forward to more of your video's. If you didn't find the article regarding a simple circuit to exercise a sticky meter, let me know and I'll dig through some of my old mags and see if I can find it. Though the circuit is very simple and easy to throw together. As I recall, you simply switched a positive LOW V then a neg. V and use a pot(s) to prevent too much travel in both directions. I jury rigged something years ago and fixed several meters. Exercising the meter back and fort for 30 mins to an hour did clear whatever was causing the problems. It was either contamination or oxidized wiring. 73, Glenn WA4AOS

Why carbon comp resistors? They drift in value more than metal film. Metal film also are lower inductance. Great videos.

Great video! Where did you find the lace?

this is what me and my friend group nerd out about

You'll have to excuse me for laughing at using an Arduino to replace a 555.

Some say gun or sewing machine oil is a good lubricant for the bushings as they are "non-gumming" lubricants. I would have been scratching my head if that meter cycling test actually worked. 👍