Відео

You can email the video to support@nickstvs.com nice work fixing the backlight, that can be very tricky, especially on a 70". The screens get pretty fragile when you get to those sizes. If you disconnect the mainboard from the power supply board, does the clicking still occur? How comfortable are you with performing Live DC voltage checks? Have you ever done it before? I am still thinking the issue is mainboard related even though you are getting that clicking and that's because you said " I heated the processor chip on the main board and it came to life" This is really used more for diagnostic purposes, not as a repair. For a lasting repair, you need to reach the solder's melting point and that should only be done with a rework machine.

Yes it is and also with the 55H9G

That actually is probably still a mainboard failure. If you remove the mainboard and take a look at the back of it, do you see a brown spot on the back where the processor is? If so it means the processor overheated and burnt out. We sell upgraded replacement mainboards if this is the case.

When we purchase the chips they are going to be blank and will require programing.

I don't work with the 2014 Sony models only the 2015 and newer. But 2015 and newer models when a 4 blink is triggered is usually due to failure of the LED driver board and or the LED strips themselves. I don't know if that blink code can be applied to your unit however.

You could program the Nand yourself, but the TNM5000 Nand programmer we use is around $750. We do have the nand pre-programmed on our website for $23.95 I know it says it's for KD or KDE at the end but its the same nand and same software: nickselectronics.com/products/m3d550kde-u405

Yes you can! We have a flat rate service available on our website which comes with a 1 year warranty on the reair. Once you purchase the repair service listing an email will be sent with packaging and shipping instructions. Just follow the link below, add the repair to your cart and proceed through the check out process. nickselectronics.com/products/55-75j01-001g

What model TV do you have? I saw you also sent us a message on the E551i-A2. I sent you a link in that message for the repair of that board specifically. However if you have an M420SV that's a different repair. The link to the repair service is however in the video description. If you have a different model TV however let me know which so I can guide you to the correct repair service. You can also fill out our contact form and we can help you further from there: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact Or you can email us directly at support@nickstvs.com

Slowly turning blue means your LEDs are starting to fail. To fix this you would need to replace the LED strips behind the screen.

Thanks! It's definitely easier than you might think, like everything it just takes practice

@NicksTVRepair I think the bigger issue is investment in the proper equipment for one-off repairs, but I still enjoy your expertice!

Yeah that's also true.

That's correct. We get a good working mainboard, we make sure to factory reset it and then we remove the Nand chip, dump the files using our programmer and use that file to fix other boards.

@@NicksTVRepair What do you guys do when a new model comes out, buy a mainboard? Has to be hundreds of models (and that's just for TVs!)

We don't otherwise we would be buying hundreds of new boards most of which we probably would never need. What we do is we usually wait a few years to see where failures start to occur. We have a local shop and a separate location for mail in services, so at our local shop we have the opportunity to buy broken TVs from customers and trade them out for newer / bigger models when we start seeing a TV come in often for the same problem. This way we can fix their TV, and then use it as a test jig for online mail in repair customers. Sometimes however we are not made aware of a TV's repair needs until the mainboard is no longer available. Like not available at all at all. Can't buy it new, used, refurbished, or even broken. Just nothing available. In those cases we have to constantly look online for people selling the full TV in functioning order and buy it full price to both get a test set and the software from the mainboard.

Oh no, what model do you have?

@@NicksTVRepairit’s the 77in LG C4

Oh really. I haven't had to work on that one yet, still to new of a model. Based on your comment however I am sure I will be seeing my fair share soon enough.

Glad you enjoyed the video!

Why not?

Glad you found it helpful!

The firmware files were dumped from a good working Nand taken from a working board that was reset to factory default.

Based on your symptoms it definitely doesn't sound like a power supply failure. It also most likely is not an LED failure or LED driver otherwise you would be getting a 4 or 6 blink error code. Since you aren't getting a blinking error code. That sounds like it's a mainboard failure but I can't be 100% sure. There is a small chance it could be T-con or panel but that's not common for those to fail with this model + you would usually also get a 5-blink error code. In my experience, no blink code no picture is going to be mainboard related. We do offer a flat-rate mail-in service for these, if you want to send in the mainboard we can check it out. If it turns out the mainboard is fully functional we issue a full refund and only keep $20 as a bench fee for testing it. nickselectronics.com/products/xbr-75x850f

I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's always nice to keep a good TV running.

You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed the music-free experience!

:) thank you

How many times is the light flashing? If it's 2 times it's the power supply board and I have a video on that. If it's a different number I am not sure what could be wrong

Hot air in my experience (could just be user error) tends to put more stress to the board and thus more likely to lift or tear off a pad. I also just find that the Iron is faster than the hot air. For the hot air you have to wait longer for it to get to temperature and then it takes longer for the heat to transfer into the chip. So faster with the iron and safer in my experience. But also if I practiced more with the hot air Im sure I could get better, safer and faster than I currently am, but I just don't know I would be as efficient.

Thank you!

I am not sure about that but would love to know more. There are certain chips that no matter what new or used, always have 1 bad block or 2 bad blocks. There are other nands that if it has even 1 bad block you have to toss out the chip. There is a 0 bad block tolerance. It's kind of weird how some have bad blocks others don't. The important part when you deal with chips that have bad blocks all the time is that when you program to them it has a perfect write to only good blocks and that the verify is 100% successful as well. If it's not it most likely means it won't work. When doing some research about it I did find that Samsung has certain chips that by default have at least 1 bad block and that's normal just don't know why.

Thank you and you are welcome :)

lines and issues with brightness are typically associated with a bad screen. I unfortunately don't think your set would be worth fixing in this situation but I can't know for sure without diagnosing the entire TV. If you can find a local person that would be your best bet but it seems like that might be tough. Sorry.

The reason we don't often do JVC is because the common faults are either LED strip failure (the led lights behind the screen that illuminate it) or it's a panel failure which often is not repairable.

I am sorry to tell you this but 6 blinks is not power supply or mainboard related but instead is LED strip failure. You will need to replace the LED strips in your TV in order to fix this issue. As for the amber green video that's normal it means your mainboard needs to pair with your T-con and panel. I wouldn't worry about that right now because it's going to probably happen again through the course of the LED replacement but here is a video on how to pair: ua-cam.com/video/3kYPjIHt8Lc/v-deo.htmlsi=1Z7BFrAsLIzTneXX And i also have this one: ua-cam.com/video/gBd2g7kRsEM/v-deo.htmlsi=ZJgbfyEcl-Eje5TU

Every Synology model is a bit different and requires different repairs and thus different repair prices. What is the exact model of your Synology unit? What are the exact symptoms you are experiencing? It would be best to have you provide this information via our website's contact form instead of the YT comments. This will make it easier for us to track and respond. Here is a link to our contact page: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact

Gross lol

Not necessarily, you can get big sparks sometimes with no damage as long as it's within areas that can handle it.

It is rare in my expeirence for the optocoupler to go out but i have seen it happen once. Remove it out of circuit and then check again. If the fault remains on the optocoupler then it's bad but if the fault is still present on the board with the optocoupler out then it means the issue is somewhere else on the board.

I just checked it out. Not sure this is something I would want.

We primarily fix CPC4, and while we do fix some ECM's we aren't equipped to fix all ECM for all vehicles, as we don't have the connections and software required for all at this time. If you can provide us with the information of the ECM's that you have, show us where to get bench testing equipment and the software, we can look more into it and establish if it's something worth looking into or not. Then we can discuss further. I would recommend you fill out on of our contact forms with as much information as possible and I will get back to you via email. Here is a link to our contact form below: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact

External speakers is the solution. Most TVs internal audio is only going to get worst as TV sets get thinner and lighter. They are going to take more and more out of the screen and make everything else required an exteranl part of it.

Haha thank you I appreciate the nice comment, and while a school of technology is actually something that I plan on doing in the future, I don't think we will be able to get that started for a few more years.

the power supply doesn't turn on the backlight unless it detects a 3v signal from the mainboard. Does your BL_ON line receive 3v or more? If not then that means the mainboard is probably defective and not sending the on command for the backlights.

@NicksTVRepair that ok because when the BL- on voltage come from the main board only half voltage means 0.5voltage at that time shut down and goes in four time blinking

If you have a 4 blink code it's because your backlight is bad. Your Mainboard is not going to send the 3v if it knows there is an issue with the backlight. No need to do any diagnostics the 4 blinks guarantee the backlight is your fault. I have never seen a Sony TV be wrong about that. (well 4 blinks guarantees backlight 90% of the time or LED driver board 10%)

It is but it's not finanically economical. It would be cheaper to buy a new TV.

Because you are expeirencing a thin red vertical line it most likely means that your panel is out and not the power supply. I am sorry but for that one we won't be able to help you.

@ ok thank you for quick and helpful reply 👍

no problem and sorry about the bad news.

One morning it's 9:00 AM the first TV I start working on that day. It's an older samsung plasma sheet metal cover. I sliced my finger so bad I couldn't stop the bleeding for 2 hours. Constand pressure on it, Ice, elevated. Couldn't really work that whole time. I felt woosy and after stopping the bleeding finally by super gluing the cut I just called it a day. This was like 7 years ago or so, I will remember that day for a few more years haha.

I would recommend you do the following. On a cold start reduce the backlight down to the lowest possible setting. Does that increase the amount of time you can use the TV for? If yes then you have a bad panel. If no then your mainboard indeed probably keeps failing or your have a bad T-con.

@ Thank you Nick, I've already had the main board replaced and awaiting a new panel. I will try the backlight prior to panel replacement. Thank you for your reply 😊

It's more rare but we have seen the T-cons fail as well.

That's going to be LED driver or LED strip failure.

ok but in that case Sony 75 x model when power on backlight on voltage is not coming in power supply and so that no any LED vcc in power supply show which type we get find this problem solution.please any other help from you please

4 blink error code is LEDs or LED driver however most often it's the LEDs themselves. Those are the only 2 things that cause a 4 blink code for a Sony LED TV. doesn't matter what your other symptoms are or what else you found.

@@NicksTVRepair OK thank you

no problem

We always live test and troubleshoot the unit before performing any repairs. If we find the unit is fully functional and does not require a repair, then we would refund the service minus a $20 bench fee and return the board back to you.