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RCTactical
United States
Приєднався 15 лют 2021
Helpful tips about R.C. Build and great action shots.
Anything we can think of to help out beginners and advanced hobbyists alike!
Anything we can think of to help out beginners and advanced hobbyists alike!
New Body for SCX10III Gladiator: Pro-Line
this is the Pro-Line 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 13.9" body for SCX10III Gladiator and other 13.9" wheelbase rigs. this one came out beautifully!
body:
www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-2015-chevrolet-silverado-clear-body-13.9-wb/PRO358500.html
body:
www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-2015-chevrolet-silverado-clear-body-13.9-wb/PRO358500.html
Переглядів: 1 307
Відео
New Desert Lizard Shock Setup LCG (Droop)
Переглядів 16 тис.2 роки тому
New Desert Lizard Shock Setup LCG (Droop)
Axial SCX10ii Differential Rebuild (SSD and Vanquish)
Переглядів 7132 роки тому
Axial SCX10ii Differential Rebuild (SSD and Vanquish)
Treal 1.0 Beadlock Wheel Tire Swap to RC4WD KM3 SCX24
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 роки тому
Treal 1.0 Beadlock Wheel Tire Swap to RC4WD KM3 SCX24
Desert Lizard Shock Discussion (Check Description)
Переглядів 25 тис.3 роки тому
Desert Lizard Shock Discussion (Check Description)
Murray Hill Offroad Park 1/10 Scale Comp
Переглядів 1953 роки тому
Murray Hill Offroad Park 1/10 Scale Comp
1/10 Scale Crawling +FPV Creek Crawl Pt. 2
Переглядів 793 роки тому
1/10 Scale Crawling FPV Creek Crawl Pt. 2
SCX10III MAD Racing Creek Crawl Ascent
Переглядів 613 роки тому
SCX10III MAD Racing Creek Crawl Ascent
SCX10III First Person View Spring Crawl 2021
Переглядів 1603 роки тому
SCX10III First Person View Spring Crawl 2021
KYOSHO Mini Z MR-03 Steering Maintenance
Переглядів 4,9 тис.3 роки тому
KYOSHO Mini Z MR-03 Steering Maintenance
Axial SCX24 MAD Racing First Person View
Переглядів 2233 роки тому
Axial SCX24 MAD Racing First Person View
SCX 24 B 17 Betty (Deadbolt) tips, tricks and mods
Переглядів 1,7 тис.3 роки тому
SCX 24 B 17 Betty (Deadbolt) tips, tricks and mods
I bought quite a few DL shocks for my Redcat ascent but im wondering what combo to run. I have SOA and 4 link conversion on it so it will generate much more flex with longer shocks, but I also want to maximize it as a performance rock crawler ( don't want it to look like a trx4 high trail). I also prefer no spring under the piston, and use the weight of my crawler for droop (so it maximizes flex). Should i go: 1)100mm front and rear 2)90mm front, 100mm rear 3)100mm front, 110mm rear 4)90mm front, 110mm rear Please help me out, thank you so much
That really depends on how much flex you want, remember if you don't have enough pressure pushing down, it will over flex at hill crests and topple backward st the Apex or forward on your way down. I really like 90mm but for a setup like yours I would definitely go with 100mm front and back. Remember this is just personal opinion, others may offer alternative advice that may be just as sound
I put 120mm desert licks on the base camp 10 iii and now the front and rear diff are offset so I need to get bigger suspension links by chance
Are you mounting the shocks on the rig upside down to help minimize oil leakage over time. I’m assuming even with the 4-hole plunger installed the 80 weight oil rebounds in a sufficient amount of time?
In th JL 40 weight in front 50 in rear would be better
I noticed you never let the airbubbles out probably trapped a bunch of air in those shocks
He very clearly bled the shocks 🤷🏻♂️
I appreciate this in depth shock tutorial. The shocks are so tune-able it would seem. Cheers!
What bumper do you have on the back I like how it’s kinda flush
Pretty sure that was the stock gladiator rear bumper on it
👍👍
Nice job. I just ordered the Gladiator, hasnt arrived yet but already looking at body options. Since that bed is so shallow I thought about possibly gluing some sticks or something to it to give the illusion of a full bed. Otherwise I am thinking about trying the ProLine Ratrod body as its for an e-revo but its the same wheelbase.
Interesting. I may do something similar with the Injora "Mountain" shocks I recently bought. I'll need to get additional smaller springs though.
I just remove the bottom of the shock to swap springs this way I don’t have to worry about the c-clip 😊
Look at buying some of these for my first 1/0 lcg rig. I run a set up very similar on my scx lcg build. And that things a beast lol. Finally getting a 1/10 belly dragger and I can’t wait 😂😂😂😂 and that’s for the info man and your setup is so me I love slow crawling.
Thanks for the kind words! I love getting down and seeing how every little detail moves on a slow crawl. Setup is a major part but the technique makes it an even more satisfying hobby.
Do you remember what color you used. It looks very similar to the stock Chevrolet red
Why are you taking the C clip off? You can remove the end link and remove the spring from the other end. The only reason to remove the clip would be to change the damper piston.
Because I didn't want to unscrew the lower shock end from the piston shaft.
@@rctactical5600 But you'd risk losing or breaking a c clip?
Same would go for the lower shocke end, and you risk marring the piston shaft if they are particularly obstinate. That's just how I prefer to do it, doesn't mean other ways are wrong.
How much does your rig weight. I have a 9 lb 10oz rig so far, it might get heavier :)
This particular one at the time weighed about 10lbs, but this setup has proven to work really well with my heavier rig, that may be pushing 15lbs fully loaded
@@rctactical5600 cool, thanks
@@rctactical5600 is there running video of your heavier rigs anywhere.....
So what was the purpose of the short hard spring?
Good video 👍🤗
Thank you!
Thank you sir! Answered all my questions concerning the droop set up of these shocks.
I recently got a trx4 sport with the same shocks. They are great but I need more height(they droop about or just over halfway). Can I get the springs only somewhere?
I would check on the yeah racing website, or you could use springs from a mini T inside
Awesome, thank you!
Old but gold video 👍🙂 Why did you choose 90 mm and not 100 mm, now you run with a droop setup? Just asking as I'm doing some research for what to buy for my SCX10 3 Gladiator 🙂
90 is just a preference, 100s seems to make it ride a little higher than I want.
@@rctactical5600 so if it was 90 mm before and 90 with droop now. Isn't it then lower now, when it sits? 🙂
@@kenneth_jensen sorry I was rushing to work. I should have elaborated better. So while ride height is movable using various methods such as shock keys and what not in stock placement the 90s seem to be able to sit lower than the 100s which is my preference to keep the COG low. However, I also prefer 90s because of the amount of travel on 100s is just a little longer than what I am shooting for. Again you could tweak 100s to operate much like 90s depending upon spring setup. I usually shoot for the axles to stay as close to the chassis as I can under normal ride circumstances to keep tip over on side hill and steep ascension to a minimum.
@@rctactical5600 that is a good strategy and as I read it, we drive similar. So I have decided to go with the 90mm dual stage Desert Lizard 👍🙂 Thank you so much for your feedback 🙂
Very glad I could help!
I started cracking up when you put "ripped it" on the screen lmfao.
🤣🤣🤣
Any chance you've run the rc4wd rock creepers? If so how do the km3 compare
I have not but one of the other guys I run do. The Km3s have more surface area for grip on smooth surfaces but the creeper hook the edges of rocks better
I set mine up just like this after watching the video. I have 90mm on a really light gspeed build and 100mm on a heavy trx4 with Rock Pirates shock towers. Both trucks work great! Thanks for the tips!
Glad I could help Jason! You are most welcome!
Lots of RC cars good, friends👍🎶😁
Great information great video
Thank you!
@@rctactical5600 I have idk how many sets I love them!!! I want try set drav Tech shocks but like 30-40$ more to get a set!!! Dessert lizard needs purple shock bodies hahha and few more colors
I wad actually going to do a video of me stripping the paint and painting them another color, for custom colors. I am a big fan of lizards, but I have heard really good stuff about the Dravtechs as well.
How could I missed these Shocks until now? Awesome tutorial!
Thank you!!
You did the best you could on what Proline completely obliterated on the front with the ridiculous Bumper on this body!! This is the reason I won't buy it for my Gladiator, at the minimum Proline should of designed a large chrome bumper something anything to complete the front!! It looks hideous, you either cut the lexan where they suggest and then your left with no front end ,looks like half the trucks gone or you leave the plastic that's suppose to be removed and try and paint it like you did . You did very good for what it is but Proline should be ashamed and embarrassed not to mention the entire bodies to skinny!! I'm done ,sorry for ranting....
I agree they could have done more with the front end. It sucks they wanted you to cut so much off and everything below it is blank, like you said work with what you can. Thanks for the great comment! Appreciate it!
@@rctactical5600 your welcome Buddy ...
Nice my man did you have a comp? Or was this at another course??
At MTS in mercer, PA awesome place to check out. They might have an event next month!
Hi.. i am currently build the desert lizard shock almost similar setup as yours but with 30wt oil. It seems like it become too stiff where it keeps the axle suck up and did not play. So on uneven surface the tyre will hung up. Is it because i did not bleed it correctly?
It may be because the spring below the plunger is too long or stiff. Usually if not bled correctly the shock with push the rod out, opposite to the situation you are describing. Also make sure there is nothing binding along the movement of the shock, such as when the axle shifts from side to side because of compression of the panhard bar. Let me know once you dig into it if I can help in more detail.
I just noticed the raw builder's kit tie rod does not have bump stops. Very curious why the RTR would come with bump stops.
Not too sure honestly! I haven't gotten a chance to look at the RTRs that closely! I'll have to check on it!
Lookin good matt.....cant wait to get together for a crawl sesh👍
Me too man!!
Nice lil hill👍
It's one of our newest additions to the course, we are constantly adding stuff like this
Coming thru again👍👍👍👍👍
I got some more to put up too 😉
😁👍everytime you post a new short it puts a smile on my face👍👍👍
Haha thanks man 😊
O yaaaaa👍😁
Yesssss!!!!! Another awesome short 👍keep them coming matt👍
Will do! Got tons of great little single clips like this on my pc!
Matt im digging your shorts vids keep them coming👍
Thanks man!!
Nice job on that chevy body and your course is looking amazing👍
Thank you!! The Chevy is actually my grandfather's!
How does this body mount
We used magnets for this build, but you could use a set of mounting posts for SCX10III and drill holes.,
Like all body's, either post, magnets ,velcro whatever you decide !! There all the same, doesn't matter the body its a formed piece of plastic and it's up to you to find the best way to mount it, not real hard to do!!
I was wondering the same since my Axial Gladiator has the hidden mounting posts underneath.
@@brad2157 hidden body post doesn't matter your Gladiator like mine and everyone else's, also has body mount brackets on the truck, you simply have to buy the post and use the brackets that came on the truck, or use magnets or use velcro or any number of ways to mount them !! aftermarket bodies don't come with instructions on how to mount to every rc truck ever made ,there's litterally Hundreds of of crawlers on the market that wld be impossible ,use your imagination it's not very hard ,and you'll feel better about yourself in the end...💯👍🏼
We left those mounting bracket in place so the bodies can be interchangeable. Then used a bolt to go through the upper post mounts with magnets. Worked pretty well but you still can Lose the body if you crash too hard of course!
Bad ass body Gotta love the Heavy Chevy
It's an awesome truck to watch run!
I love your fpv views 👍👍keep the great vids coming buddy👍
Thank you!! About to drop another!
On voit presque rien..quand tu montre de petit détail de petite chose..rapproche ta vue..on a pas besoin voir toute ta table..merci comme même pour ton aide
Sorry! There's another video that goes into more detail of actual swap over, this one just highlights the springs used
I just unscrew the other end of the rod. Easier and you don't have to worry about losing the little c clip.
Yeah for sure! Also a great option
Good way to cut the oring in the cap...
I noticed some people install the desert lizards upside down and right side up. Does that make a difference?
There are two potentials this could have, it could add that little bit more weight down low, and people often do this to keep rhe shock from leaking. I have never had one of these shocks leak however. Another thing to consider if the clearance down below where the shock meets the axle, an upside down shock on the front of some trucks could potentially limit steering angle
Its to keep the weight at the bottom towards the axle.
Awesome thanks for the info! How heavy are your rigs?
I have this setup on a 14 pound rig, a 9 pound rig, and a 8 pound rig. This setup works indiscriminately well with many weights
Aww man another great job! Video was awesome! I need to get me a camera and try this lol.
Thanks again! It's a lot of fun to record from inside the cab!
Great Video my friend! Let him know that was an awesome job! For sure Goals.
Thank you! Will do!!
Looked for a video of the Cherokee body and got more than that. Very good mood inducing style of editing. I love it :)
Thank you!
Hard body came out great!!! Course looks good to 👍
Thank you!!
Hell ya matt you're edits are coming out amazing keep up the great work....by the way are you going to attend axialfest this year??
Thank you!! I'm not sure if I'll be able to attend!