Відео

I kept mine after I modded it. It's a good comparison for other amps I build, and of course 5E3s sound great. Building from a kit is not a bad start, but I didn't learn much from building that way. I used a mojotone kit once way back, and they don't explain the science at all - it's sorta monkey see-monkey do. But I suppose you get your hands into it, which is good.

Good luck with it! Well worth the small learning curve.

Many years ago when first building amps, I checked all the node voltages with the amp plugged into a dim bulb tester. All my readings were somewhat lower than expected - took me a while to realize that the tester is only good for one thing - testing for shorts on start-up. I find I no longer use it at all. I have a variac, so when I am testing a new build, I bring the voltage up to about 50VAC and put my meter on all the most important nodes to see how the amp is behaving at low voltage. Then I bring the voltage up to about 80VAC and test voltages again, leaving it plugged in for a few minutes for everything to warm up and settle down. Then, if it looks good, I'll bring it up to 120VAC and test again. I enjoy this method and have encountered no problems with it. If there is a wiring issue, it will become immediately apparent due to unusual voltages, and I'll know that before it gets hit with a high voltage.

@@SandersAmps Great info! Thanks!

I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but Fender often have a clean channel and a Reverb channel in their designs. Hope that makes sense.

Carpinteria, 10 miles south of Santa Barbara CA.

Hi! This schematic is almost the same as many single-ended amps. In many regards, it is simply a Fender Champ with a TB tone stack inserted, and it uses two preamp tubes in parallel rather than a single, divided tube. These sorts of designs are free all over the internet. Mind you, this has diode rectification instead of Fender's 5Y3 tube rectifier, but otherwise, these designs are free everywhere.

Heyo. No matter how good a capacitor is, these were manufactured 60 years ago, and they've experienced who knows what since then. If they're noisy, they're noisy. It's no surprise. And if you don't believe that's possible, then I recommend you go buy a bunch of 1950s bumblebees at $50 a pop off ebay for their "mojo." Just sayin'. No capacitor is bullet proof.

I'm guessing PT1 means power transformer 1. But that's juts a guess because it's not original.

It could be, but that logo wasn't on it anywhere. I'm not sure where the cover went, but thanks! I was pleasantly surprised by the tone.

How hard was that conversion-saw one where the inputs with volume were on one side of projector then opposite side was volume/tone and power. Strange configuration?

Sorry, I don't have the amp here any longer, but I'm pretty sure it was running around 325v CT.

@@SandersAmps Ok thank you !!

Thanks!

It depends on which amp, but if it is a typical fixed bias Fender style, it seems possible the bias would still be controlled, but not necessarily to the extent you would want. But without seeing a schematic or knowing the model, who know how it's been designed?

Thank's for the reply it is this exact amp Duncan 84 40. Seems to work alright just wondered why that resistor would be gone.

Do you mean to buy one?

Thank you! High praise indeed.

Sorry, I don't have the guitar here any longer, or I'd measure it for you. Can't remember what it was.

Thanks Kimberly!

Ha! It's not you, it's them! Thanks.

Ha! Thanks!

So on that amp. The transformer and those three tubes is the whole amp ??? I have a 1949 Phillips table top radio that I want to convert to a 5 watt guitar amp .

Hmmm.... could be. Took me a while to get the video together.

Very cool. Good luck with the archtop, and thanks for the info.

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback.

I love UD. He is a great guy to follow. I watched him often in my early building days. But I never got the full understanding from him - or any other single youtuber - that I wanted. I highly recommend that you follow a bunch of people. If you think you're going to get 100% perfect info for free from a single video, well...

​@SandersAmps I understood you quite well, and got a perspective or two that helped me. Yes, UD is great, but you do have good work here, sir.

Thank you! @@jaysorensenIBEW

You are quite right, rodedog55. Thank you for pointing that out. A working schematic should have what is often called a grid leak resistor connecting the input/signal grid on V3 to ground. Depending on the design, this could be anything from a 220k to a 1M. Probably the reason there is not one in this schematic is because it was simplified from an earlier version that had a master volume before V3, and I neglected to include the grid leak resistor after I erased the master vol. Rodedogg55 is correct in that this resistor does not only allow any build up of electrons on the cathode to leak to ground, negating their effects on the signal, it helps control the biasing of the power tube. This is especially important on a grid-biased output tube.

Yes indeed - wish it was mine!

Thanks! I wll :)

Heyo. Thanks for the kind words. I used a schematic designed/drawn by Steve Lucky, who is a senior contributor on EL34world.com forum - pretty brilliant guy. It can probably be found by googling Vox AC-15R with Steve's name and see what comes up. I'm not sure how to get it to you directly unless you send your email address to shaun@sandersamps.com. S.

Yes I am familiar with his schematics for the Vox AC15 with tremolo and oscillator. I have them printed out on large paper, it has the turret board layout, the parts list, grounding scheme, even a template for the turret board. I appreciate the info. I think I'll use it for my build. I also forgot to mention that the schematics have the Hammond transformers listed with schematics. I have a Mojotone NC3015 Vox AC15 circuit turret board ready to install and I think I'll put an EZ81 rectifier and JJ 32/32 500v can cap from the power supply. I have already stripped both chassis down. I don't know if the power supply would power the Mojotone with normal and top boost channels along with the 1960 Vox AC15 that Steve Lucky made the schematics and layout for. I see where it powers 6 EL84s in 3 channels so I believe it will be sufficient but I'm not completely sure though. I enjoyed your video and learned a good deal of info also. I appreciate your response and advice too. Good luck with your projects, I'll be checking it out.

I think she has the gain up on the amp, but like most guitarists, she also has a board.

Thanks!

The Patrician model 1407 is a solid wood guitar and the only attempt at a professional archtop that they made. I have one from 1947 and I did a neck reset and put flat wound strings on it which sound pretty good. Much better then regular acoustic strings on that particular model.

I don't think this guitar is a Patrician because they didn't have block inlays nor a headstock overlay and the holes are not the same.

The only suitable response I can make to that is this: Any guitar that plays okay is better than no guitar at all :)

Yes I agree! @@SandersAmps

@warrenhess3259- You simply are parroting back the general consensus, which would be wrong. This guitar is a Patrician H1414 or H1415. The center strip in the top is solid spruce, and the rest of the guitar wood is solid Honduras Mahogany. The purfling is a rectangular checkerboard of contrasting woods. How low end does that sound to you? There are many Harmony guitars that would be considered low end, but there are some that cannot be described as anything but well built of extremely high quality materials. The Patrician line, the guitar here being one of them, is an all solid wood model, and when in good shape, both sounds (I own both an H1414 and an H1415) and looks good. There are other Patricians that are a bit lower end, but all are solid wood models. The earlier Cremona models, also archtops of all solid wood, had tops of a solid block of wood (maple in those cases) that was carved, by hand, with a chisel (the chisel marks can be seen if you look underneath the top), so that the top not only had its proper shape and graduation, but the tone bars (the straight braces used on archtops) were not added on, but carved around when the tops were carved out. See how many other guitar makers did that, even the highest ones you can name. I'll wait. Also, the higher end Cremonas and Patrician archtops did indeed have block inlays (but made of plastic, not shell materials). The 1950s and later Harmony Sovereign line were also solid wood guitars. The most common, the large, somewhat uniquely shaped H1260, is an all sold wood flattop, roughly dreadnought sized. It was 16" across the lower bout. The back was one piece of Honduras Mahogany. Yes, one piece, 16" wide. Built with hide glue. Try and find a modern acoustic flattop that is made that way, even a hand-built. It sounds unique because of its ladder bracing, but for some types of music, like fast playing or acoustic blues, is an ideal instrument. It was good enough for Jimmy Page to use for the acoustic parts of Stairway to Heaven during recording (not used live). It is far more than good enough for most acoustic players, and truly good acoustic players will know how to use its special characteristics to best effect. Saying that all Harmony guitars are only good for firewood is like saying that all Gibson guitars are absolutely top of the line. Does Gibson not make Les Paul Juniors and Specials? How high end are those? In a similar way, not all Harmony guitars are only good for firewood.

Yep, a different speaker will make a big difference, no doubt about it. But boy it's fun working on amps :)

Internal is for the speaker in the cabinet, external is for an extension speaker, just in case you want to add one.