Відео

Hi Gabriel, Thanks for this video. helps me a lot about 35mm. but I wanna know about 120mm, how can I find 120mm negative film and which size of 120mm is in the market? I'm new in this photography and I don't know about 120mm size, i know 35 is a little smaller than 120, but i didn't see any of 120mm size in 400 ft or 100 ft in all websites to buy. and if there is, can you explain to me how to put it in canister, I mean I didn't see any bulk loader of 120mm . Thanks man

Donde podría comprar piezas de repuestos de suspencion para ese tipo de pickup en El Salvador se llaman Nissan junior y Nissan Miller

No problems with the Paterson tank? I had problems because the center shaft is not blocked and it rolled together the tank and the spiral didn't rotate so the film wasn't developed. Jobo tanks and AP tanks are better. And.. You should make a dryer tent for the film with a fan. Shorter dry time is much better than a longer time.

Hi Gabriel, this is a brilliant idea. I am gathering the components that you described but I was just wondering what amperage of the power supply you are using? I have a collection of old 12V DC supplies from old phones-light boxes etc that run fro 1.25A to 5A but was just wondering what you are running. regards Evan

Also, if people are wondering why I’m not using stop between the developer and Blix it’s because I don’t want a drastic pH level change. C41 unicolor developer is very alkaline and stop is the exact opposite acidic. That might be OK for black and white but for color film, you don’t want a huge pH level changes, between developer and Blix it could give you unpredictable color shifts. Although some people still do it, it is not recommended in the color film developers instructions!

Nice! Thank you, one cuestion how do you check the ph?

I rinse my film with reverse osmosis water. It's nearly the same as distilled water. I get it from filtering my tap water. It was a lucky coincidence because I got it to make my own water for the espresso machine. I have a somewhat different approach. My way is to keep the film on the roll in the canister until the end of the developing and washing. Then I just soak the Film in my reverse osmosis water and pour it back once the film has been soaked. That way I can keep reusing the water. It works a few times but eventually started getting deposit on my film. So I use a tds meter to check how clean my water is. If necessary I will use fresh RO water. Anyway I love your approach to developing. You put a lot of effort into everything.

When I used plastic film dev hangers, after I cut the leaders off, I would make small 45 degree cuts in the end corners of the film to keep the film from catching and buckling inside of the plastic hangers while sliding the film on. It just made the process that much smother and easier to getting the film to slide into the dev hanger. I use metal hangers and tanks and I noticed that it also helps to get the film on those even though it doesn't sliding on. I can feel the film inside the metal hanger readjusting much faster if the film is buckling up with I reverse the wind on to the metal hanger. I have to keep my thumb and middle finger near the center of the metal hanger the entire time while winding.

Nice work!! fantastic results!

Great video man got this done on mine in like 20 mins added tons of flex thanks👍👍

On a separate project, what’s a good sous vide capable of 20°c for my B&W on the side? Im open to older used

I’m gathering my parts for my project. I’m going for compact single roll at a time 120, 135. & 2~6 sheets 2x3 & 4x5. Using Jobo 1510 & 2509n tanks & extension for 8x10 paper. I’d like to use a pulley drive utilizing the existing magnet base. What is a good used recycle sores for a quiet little DC servo motor?

Maybe you can put a new link to find them? 🙏

The best shock absorber solution gor this model in UA-cam. I saw many invents. Bit this is the best . Congratulations

Great video! Would love to see the whole development process with ECN-2 chemicals. Just tried the first couple of roles at home myself

This is so cool!

I know this was on a long time ago, but can you tell me what you used to hold the boot while you worked on it (the clear plastic thing). Thank you x

You’re welcome. I’m glad I can help.

THANK YOU

Can you program this ESC? I saw on the AliExpress listing that the seller mentioned "ESC is set in the middle of the range, the new control generally need to fine tune the throttle."

Verryyyy….interesting? Jk this is fun❤

Hi Gabriel, thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thanks for taking the time to show how you put the processor together as well as how you go through your C-41 process. Have you put together a step by step guide to 1) make the processor (yes, I saw all the parts and costs, but a step by step would be great) 2) how your steps of testing for pH and anything else you normally go through to get the final result would be deeply appreciated. Thanks for the consideration. Andrew

Great work bud! But how or what did you use to put the electric parts together?

Thanks for your tutorial! what is the driver figure? have you a link? Thanks!

U should see my semi and trailer

Vast improvement over mine. The motor stalls at even the slightest rock or bump. Pretty much useless as it is. Upgrades coming tho....

Nice bro

Can u share the pattern please. 🙏🏻

Thank you, great idea. What if you gave the finished plate a light, quick burst of clear spray paint to coat it further.

Can you do custom heads?

Can the 112scale clothing fit on 110cale figures

I had a very bad expirience with the "Double way 320A", the ESC died but still flashes the red led and power the receiver. At the same time, motor does not move and the battery looks almost short, the ESC is pushing extremly high currents. High current is pushed from the battery independent of what you do in the controller (you can even disconnect the receiver, high current will flow from the battery and the battery, cables and ESC get very hot). The ESC worked for 3 runs, about 40min total and was good when it worked but honestly, with this behavior I won't considering only bad, it's actualy very dandgerous

Nice man! I just put the 370 in mine and it's much better now. The stock motor would cut out trying to climb, but now she has torque and nice modulation with that gearing. I don't mind the slow speed.

I think I said 5500 K lightbulb but it’s actually a 5000 K

omg, this looks amazing. Can't wait to see what else you manage to do in your darkroom

I really love the intrepid enlarger. It was a little pricey I probably could’ve saved a whole lot of money and just bought a second hand omega or Beseler enlarger probably even one with a color head. But I wanted a new enlarger just in case parts for an old one were hard to find if something was to break. In the end I’m glad I bought the intrepid. It’s capable of 35s all the way up to 6 x 9 and with my set up I’m able to print my four favorite sizes 4 x 5, 5x7, 8x10, 16x20. Plus it is a color head and the control Diles are very easy to use for color prints and black-and-white. The contrast control is nice as well. Not having to have gel filters is a plus.

That’s a cool setup you’ve got there. How are you finding the Intrepid enlarger? Most of the reviews are from people that got sent them for free.

what sewing machine you were using?

Can you make a template

Very nice job

Which in you buy

What kind of aluminum is this and where can I get it? Thanks

Nice trk and video was hopen to see how you had motors mounted.

Hello. Which tires did you use?

Good job on the math! Don't be afraid to open up an f stop (smaller number) and cut your time in half. Your lens is a 4.5 so using f8 is more than safe in terms of sharpness. At 80 sec, you can get micro vibrations that may impact your print quality. Also, look up reciprocity failure. Modern paper is designed for shorter exposure times, so you may see some color shifts with longer times. Keep up the good work. Color can be miserable, you don't have the fanciest setup, but you're getting the job done!

I like your process! It looks like your developing at room temperature. I'm curious to know what (brand) chemicals you're using for the developer and Blix.

great prints!

Is it save run with 2S lipo battery...or I have change the board..? If I only change the motor for a 180 wpl...will it get powerful...?

Cool! I have made my own too with a toy grade Fc models jeep and aftermarket parts.

Where did you pick up the 5th wheel from?