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I actually wound up using a 50 gallon blue barrel for black and a 30 gallon blue barrel for fresh water. I installed a ball valve on the bottom of the 30 gallon using a compression fitting and some epoxy, and used a 12 volt RV style pump powered by a lawnmower battery to pump it to the trailer. Gravity feed would probably work, but it'll take forever to drain. Pumping is much faster.

@mouinezorkot7261 I got the boat hatch on ebay. It was used.

He uses a pump

Hello! I'm not a plumber, but my understanding is that "slip" and "spigot" are the same thing. You need a "hub" or "female" part the spigot goes into. 7201 is a 2 inch valve, and 7203 is a 3 inch valve, both "slip" or "spigot" on both ends. I used 7201, or the 2 inch valve, in my application. I think the only part I had trouble finding was the bung adapter to screw into the barrel.

@@justman777texas2 appreciate the reply. I just know that I ordered 7201 along with the exact parts you got and it did not all go together like it did for you in the video. Solved it by just using 2” pvc to join the pieces. Your video was still extremely helpful.

Hello there! Not sure which pieces you're talking about, as all the pieces have spigot and hub components with the exception of the blade valve. The 2 inch barrel adapter has a threaded side for screwing into the barrel as well as a hub side. The 2 inch blade valve has a spigot on both sides, one of which is used to glue to the hub of the barrel adapter. The other spigot side of the blade valve is used to glue to the hub side of the offset/reducer. The other side of the offset/reducer is a spigot, which is used to go into the hub side of the lug adapter. It all goes together in the order I had listed in the video pretty easily, so recommend verifying you got the correct part numbers.

Hello! Adding it to the outside was an option, but I didn't want any more penetrations on the outside than necessary. The line-hide is attached to the wall with screws, and any screw hole is another opportunity for water to get in. Also, I had some concerns about the line-hide blowing off when I was driving down the road. Probably wouldn't happen, but you never know. I suppose either option would have worked, and if something had been in the way, I probably would have mounted the line-hide externally. By the way, the heat setting on the mini-split works well in moderate temps. I had to supplement the heater with a diesel heater in Colorado, simply because it gets so cold up that way.

Heavy for sure. That's where a maceration pump comes in handy. Load the barrel empty in the bed of the truck and use the maceration pump to fill it.

@@justman777texas2 aaaaah I see. Now that’s the way to do it 👍🏼

Hello! You've probably found what you needed by now, but I believe I ordered the part off Amazon. You should be able to find it there or on any number of plumbing supply warehouses. Pretty expensive for what it is, but not many other options out there.

That's true. I tried to make it as inconvenient as possible, so they're going to have to spend a lot of time doing it. Of course, an angle grinder and a lot of noise would do the same thing and take a lot less time. A determined thief will get anything, given enough time. My intent was to increase the amount of time required and make it as tough as I could. For shore power, I cut a hole big enough for a 1/2 inch electrical clamp fitting and ran a 12 gauge extension cord through it, and then put a 20 amp plug on the end. The other end of the extension cord gets plugged into the generator.

Yes, you have to use something to pump the waste into the barrel.

Hello! Little late, but I posted the materials and part numbers in the video description. I don't push a specific vendor, but you should be able to find the parts on Amazon or ETrailer, depending on who you want to give your money too. Hope it helps!

I've ran it inside the box several times. I don't advise it though if you are stationary and there's no wind to blow the exhaust away.

The fill hole was large enough to fit the hose from the maceration pump and leave a lot of space around it to vent.

I should also add that mine is not bolted permanently down or anything. I either disconnect it from the rails or I just lift the entire thing from the b&w mount.

@@Im4knowledge That's a good suggestion, and one I had previously considered. My hitch is a Putnam auto slider and is super heavy. If I have to move it around in the bed of the truck, it's usually with a crowbar. I can't imagine having to wrangle that thing back onto the pins in the bed of the truck without doing a lot of back and forth in the truck to get everything lined up just right. When I take it out of the truck, I use my tractor and some chains to lift it off the pins, and the same when putting it back on. It's not terribly convenient, but I suppose it's the price you pay for having an auto slider.

@@justman777texas2 That is true. It's a super pain to line out back up. I'm glad I watched your video though because I was trying to figure out what kind of container to buy in my own design. I never even thought about using a barrel. I was thinking about mounting a 200 gallon container to a heavy duty rack that hooked into the back hitch of my camper. The rack would have a hitch mount on front and on back. That way I could just pull my truck around to the back of my camper, hook up to the rack, disconnect from the camper and go. I would always have to make sure that I was in a pull thorough site but other than mounting it on a pull behind trailer I can't think of a better way to do it. The barrel would take up less space, be lighter and cheaper.

I'm not sure, exactly. I suspect as long as you haul responsibly and not slosh it all over the road you should be okay. Keep in mind most black tanks are 40 gallons, and they go on the road all the time in the belly of trailers, and nobody pulls them over and cites them for hauling sewage. But...that's not legal advice.

@@justman777texas2 thanks. I'm going like 2 or 3 miles to a dump site on mostly back roads. It's for a property we are developing, but don't have septic yet and want to choose when we spend that kind of money. I didn't know if there was a certification on the ones camco and others make, I think this is the path forward for me though.

You can find used dealers all over the place. I bought 4 that had soap in them and rinsed them. 20 a piece

@@toddamccoy Same here. The ones I used had fountain soda syrup in them. It took quite a few loads of water to get the taste out of them, even after letting them soak with bleach and then vinegar. I used the water primarily for showering, washing dishes, and such until the taste subdued to the point I could actually drink it without it tasting like super watered down soda.

@@justman777texas2 definitely nonpotable for us until we get something like a berkey eventually, I thought the berkey stripped too much flavor myself so maybe I'll get a generic that isn't quite as restrictive.

Do you have a photo of it?

I thought about doing the same, but figured a good dolly with pneumatic wheels would work too. Have to find a way to tow it, but that shouldn't be all that hard to do. Thanks for the note!

I got a 55 gallon white barrel that was used for DEF and it was like this one. A course and a fine. I like the white because you can see how much it is filled.

I ordered all the parts from Amazon or ETrailer. I think ETrailer had all the parts I needed, so you should be able to go their website and plug in the part numbers I showed.

We have a few places locally that offer used barrels for a reasonable cost.

Honestly, I haven't had a chance to use it. I built it with the intent of being prepared "just in case", but the location I wound up staying for 6 months had a truck that came around weekly to empty your black tank for a reasonable cost, so I went that route instead. It's a pretty simple set-up though, and the tank itself is super thick plastic and pretty durable. I can't see a downside to using one.

Cris, I likely could add a bar from front to rear for more stability. Might do that one day...when the opportunity presents itself. Honestly though, what I have on the trailer now makes it incredibly stable.

Maceration pump. I made one out of a garbage disposal.

I think this is the video you're looking for. The primary focus was the bumper, but I do show how the mini-split is mounted on the bumper. ua-cam.com/video/hR1GvoLEPOQ/v-deo.html I don't know if installing this 12K BTU unit on your RV will help in that type of heat, especially with no shade. It's certainly worth a shot though!

If you're still reading these, I suggest you take a look at the RV ducting mod. Just do a search on UA-cam and it should come right up. I did this to my RV and a friends RV, and in both cases it increased the airflow (and cooling) significantly. It basically directs the cold air to the ceiling ducts in the AC plenum.

Yes. I took the bottom hole, so they won't retract totally. They stick down about an inch more. I haven't missed not being able to move them up that one inch.

Thought JB Weld would work, too, but it unfortunately did not. The epoxy sheers even under slight torque to tighten the set nut.

Ebay. It was the cheapest place at the time.

Ed---I'll leave it as an undisclosed location in South Texas. If it helps, we're pretty far South and it gets plenty hot. Air conditioning is a must.

@@justman777texas2 We are in the Harlingen area. If possible we would like to see your set up.

@@justman777texas2 You really cant say the city? geez

I hear that! I've had a 22 gallon blue boy for about 14 years now. It's been decent, but it's certainly hard to move when it's full. I also popped the wheels off one time by letting it sit unvented in the back of my truck. The sun warmed it up, the tank expanded, and the wheels popped right out of their socket. It was no fun getting them back in. I thought about getting a 4 wheel tote because they're easier to hook up and go, but several reviews included the words "cheap", "garbage", "broke", "worthless", "waste of money", etc. I figured I couldn't go wrong by spending less than half what one of the commercial versions cost. I'll try to shoot another video tomorrow to show how things turned (or turd) out. :-)

Those were my thoughts as well regarding keeping the rooftop unit. It's not hurting anything being up there, so we just left it up there. If it came down to it, I could run the rooftop units and the mini-split. Power would be an issue, but I could run the mini-split off the generator and power the rooftop air using our regular shore power. I think the units are still out there, just not available at the moment for some reason. The site I bought from lists them as being available soon.

Hello! My 5th wheel is 35 feet, and it cools the trailer pretty well in the Summer heat. It gets up to 105 here, and it's managed to keep our trailer pretty cool. However, that's using placement strategy, where we angle the camper to receive less BTUs. We pick a spot that's shaded, or we pick a spot where the site is oriented North/South, and we try to put the awning on the side that receives the afternoon sun. The mini-split is only 12K BTUs, and you have to receive equal or less than that amount of BTUs from solar gain for your camper to remain cool. Also, you gain a significant boost in efficiency from the mini-split in that it vents cool air directly into the camper vs. a roof-top ducted air conditioner that pushes cool air through roof mounted ducts. I suspect you loose about 3K BTUs going through the ducts because the ducts are being heated by the sun. If it helps further, I can tell you we haven't used our 15K rooftop air since we got the mini-split.

Hello! Power for the entire system is provided through the outdoor unit. I have a 12 inch long 15 amp male plug wired into the outside unit. That allows me some flexibility to run an extension cord from the 15 amp plug to my 1200 watt generator, or the 15 amp electrical connection on the power pole, or I can use one of the 15 amp plugs on the outside of my 5th wheel.

@@justman777texas2 I thought you would need a 7000 watt generator

@@sovereignindividual2625 Nope! Unit runs around 9 amps max, and 1400 watts max. My generator is rated at 2000 watts surge. The AC unit is an inverter, so it starts soft and ramps up. Electricity usage varies based on the load, and can be as low as around 300 watts.

Believe it weighs between 470 and 500 lbs. I forget what the shipping weight was.