Відео

Hey Kevin, love your work and I've learned heaps from your videos. I'm flattered you've watched one of mine !!! Cheers, Steve.

That's the orange one I made for Peter. Yes, he flies it most days he's at the hill.

No Ian, the wings are just blue-foam cores covered with glass and carbon, as in the below video. Typical weight for a panel has been 200g, but understand each wing has a 50% D-box constructed of 200gsm carbon cloth, so we've been making them tough, not particularly light. AUW is around 800g and they fly great at that. Cheers, Steve. ua-cam.com/video/pjoKsXbOVQ4/v-deo.html

Steve Aitken DIY Corian is a mixture of a Low Viscosity epoxy laminating resin, a super-slow hardener (to minimise heat generated, and to prevent exotherm), and ATH (Aluminium Trihydrate) powder. I use it to back moulds for composite parts, rather than the traditional multiple layers of resin and cloth. www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwifkNaM6bjtAhXV7e0KHZCiBRYYABADGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com.au&cid=CAESQeD20XtftfUbBWtf2blWKPCaXWHfDgDkFJ6kERjgEq4tuvPpCSPBnNLnMKUN-OWlfDX4caIdq3GWv1Loz17mAwxu&sig=AOD64_26OFDpsjwDkcbIsx1zhBLwOPd2qg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjCw86M6bjtAhVxMOwKHR38C5kQ9aACegQIDRBT&adurl=

I use a laminating resin made by ATL Composites on the Gold Coast in Queensland. It's called Kinetix and I use the R246 resin and a variety of hardeners, but mostly the H126 Super Fast. I used to use the H128 Fast hardener, but with the newer formulation of the 246, it now requires post-curing. Here's a link to their data sheet on the 246, I've loaded it onto my Google Drive because I can't attach it here. drive.google.com/file/d/1_8Ul2s4vbK5gYhWrpW_10vzZv7TAFPf_/view?usp=sharing

Hi Juan, thanks for the compliment - I was certainly happy with it. That mylar was painted with spray-can acrylic lacquer. These days I use a small HVLP spray gun, but I still use the acrylic lacquer. I don't like the risks involved with 2-pack paints.

@@steveaitken5468 nice, so you paint the mylars, let the dry and apply to the wing when building it? did you put waxs on the mylars before paint them? sorry for all this questions but if you can explain me the procces that would be excellent as you reallly made a great job !

@@magneresjuan no worries. Yes, I wax with TR-108 wax. I have the TR-108 because it's compatible with the PVA I use when painting in moulds. Wax well first, then paint. Let dry fully - acrylic only takes a day at most under normal conditions. Then lay up wing as shown here (same type of wing as the red one) ... ua-cam.com/video/pjoKsXbOVQ4/v-deo.html

@@steveaitken5468 perfect ! thanks. do you think any acrilic paint will work ?

@@magneresjuan Acrylic often refers to water-based paints, which are not useful for this. Acrylic lacquer is basically car-paint. If using a spray can, be careful not to buy enamel paint - it won't work either - often remaining sticky for a long time.

Mark, I only have these few pics because I took it to the Manilla Slope Fest in Sept '19 and someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Don't even have a pic of it together !!! Here's what I have ... drive.google.com/open?id=1xNZlyP012lI2HDN158zc-2yyenklJc2C drive.google.com/open?id=1BTuvSkQuAOq5DkNxKwbIgPu_tXfPk6Ih drive.google.com/open?id=1J9Y0RGu0dzBHCC_VJ9D2fSk44qC4oXD-

The pigment I used was an epoxy pigment in Cobalt Blue. The white material is the ATH 'powder'.

@@steveaitken5468 Sir I want to know how to make corian white

@@vickyparmar6548 Ok. Although the ATH is a white (almost) powder, the epoxy will have an effect on it. The easiest way to make white corian would be to source some white, epoxy-friendly pigment. Pigment is typically used around the 5% mark, but you can play with the amounts until you get the colour you need. Most composites retailers will carry pigment - just make sure it is compatible with epoxy.

Turk, I've never had anything really to do with silicone moulding, but I suspect that my usual practice of paint-in-the-mould would face a few challenges.

@@steveaitken5468 Ahhh .............. I see ; ) I suspect you could be right there! Many thanks for the quick response mate. I've been looking around on the Net to see what people are making with Corian, as opposed to the usual counter tops. Nice to see it can also be cast into moulds .................. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, gives me an idea! ; ) TURK

Thanks Don, awesome to hear that my vids are being useful. Regards, Steve.

Cheers Phil. I've just finished what was to be a replacement for that original Elf, but it's come out a little heavy, so it's going to be a rocket. The wing came out about 140 grams heavier than normal, because I used some fabric in the layup to give me a pattern on the wing. Check out this pic of the wings ... drive.google.com/open?id=1vob8gFFS-r5-WcWkeLEBwc7RhE_OpURZ

I used a piece of rectangular hollow section aluminium and cut the top and down the sides at the mid point. Then I bent the section to the angle I wanted, poured in some epoxy, taped the gap and inverted the section so the epoxy sat against the tape. I based my mould on Chris' process - here's a link to his excellent Mini How To thread -> www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2201724-Hardware-Backup-Wing-Joiner&&highlight=joiner

I used 105gsm tight-weave fibreglass fabric as the veil layer, then add the carbon D-box section and 150gsm fibreglass from the D-box edge to the TE - basically covering the control surface area. Then the cork goes down, and yes, a layer of 48gsm fibreglass over the cork - and then apply vacuum. I didn't use peel ply, I just roughed up the contact area with 80 grit sandpaper.

Thanks for the answer Steve.I suggested to use peel ply instead of sandpaper use because in past I try to separate some layers glued over cured glass treated with peelply and it was glued like wet in wet..I was very impressed about how work the bond done in this way.Anyway thank to share your work.Have fun.Ago

Thanks man, that absolutely makes two of us !!!

Neil, a popular method, admittedly using a CNC mill, is to do the initial cuts between 0.5 and 1.0mm high, saturate the MDF, let it cure, then cut to finish level. The epoxy soaks in a good 3mm, so you end up with a saturated mould surface that wet-sands much better. I suspect that sealing with epoxy after routing might leave a surface that needs too much work to make true again - from "fuzz" and the like. There is always the option to try a small job and see how it goes. Good luck mate.

Thanks Steve, I might ask some more questions on RC groups. Given I only want to make gliders for my own use, so watching costs is important.

I can put you on the "list", such as it is, if you're semi-serious. There's five on the list at present. #1 is mine, and #2 to #4 are just fuz/canopy orders. Then #5 (who wanted to be #1) is for a full kit. So, logically you'd be #6, though we don't even have a prototype yet - so there's still a bit of figuring to do.

Sure do Andre ... www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3159375-Old-Meets-New-The-Improved-Rico

That's right Chris, if you were to apply that much heat in a container let's say, the epoxy would burn and probably crystallise as it exothermed.

@@steveaitken5468 Not even probably, ask me how I know ;) Awesome technique thanks for sharing.

Must admit I've never tried that - just too obvious I suppose !!!