Відео

Thank you!

Thank you.

You are welcome.

Don't use wired frames if using it for comb honey.

Thank you!

Please post the link to the research study by a university. I'm curious about it. I haven't encountered thst; though I only wire honey super frames since i don't like wires if I decide to do a queen cell cutout. Thank you for the information.

@@darrylsbeekeepingvideos8487 Insidethehive discusses the research

Thank you.

New to your channel. What area of the Carolinas are you based out of.

@@stevebaker982 Sandhills region

Thank you

Thank you!

Thank you. Good luck and have fun on your beekeeping journey. Look at the Facebook link in the video description ir at the end of the video. I have a lot of lessons, photos and documents in the private Facebook group in the Guides and in the Files sections.

Thank you for your kind words.

Good luck. If you haven't heard your results within a month you should contact the Master Beekeeper Committee. I think Greg Wolgemuth (misspelled I'm sure) is the new chairman. You can find his contact information in the NCSBA's Yellow Book.

You are correct. You NOW have to have four years experience. When I became a Master Beekeeper the rules were only three years experience. You can find my name on the Master Beekeepers list: www.ncbeekeepers.org/programs/mbp/master

@@darrylsbeekeepingvideos8487 cool, I just took the journeyman, you should make some videos about how you got to the master lvl.

@@BackyardBeesNC Thank you. It's on my to-do list. Congratulations on Journeyman! I have a document that talks about the roadmap to Master Craftsman Beekeeper that I hand out. It is a bit dated now since some of the specialties changed, so I have to update it. I have pieces of it on Facebook in a NCSBA forum thread where I replied a couple times to someone who was looking for a single-source study guide. Take the Master exam as soon as you can since all the information you studied for the Journeyman are still in your head. You don't have to wait a full year before you take the Master exam. You can take the exam as soon as you get your Journeyman certificate. Also start on your specialties now. I had all but two specialties done for the Master requirement while I was still a Certified Beekeeper. Good luck.

@@darrylsbeekeepingvideos8487 I tried to take it after the journeyman they wouldn't let me. I was on the news once and, Doug Galloway said that wouldn't count unless I was a Journeyman.

@@BackyardBeesNC PM me and we can talk

Thank you.

Thank you. It was a pleasure to meet you. I like your videos. I'm heading to hike the AT approach trail and some of the AT this weekend.

@@darrylsbeekeepingvideos8487 hope you enjoy it! It is a beautiful section.

Thank you!

Like most things in beekeeping it comes down to personal preference. Bottom line up front (BLUF): I like natural beeswax simply due to the fact natural beeswax is easier to replace the foundation when the drawn comb becomes old, and dark. I also like natural beeswax foundation because I can do single queen cell splits if I want. I can cut out a single queen cell in natural beeswax. The bees will fill the hole back in when I cut out the queen cell. There are pros and cons to all types of frames and foundation. I prefer natural beeswax foundation, with or without metal support wires depending on whether I intend to use it for brood chambers (wireless foundation), or honey supers (wired foundation). I cross wire my wired foundation that is used in honey supers. I know some beekeepers that don't do the extra cross wiring step on honey super wired foundation. They claim it is supported enough by the existing vertical support wires to prevent blowing out the comb when extracting honey. Plastic foundation (what I think you are calling rigid foundation) is sold as waxed or unwaxed foundation. The pros to plastic foundation are: 1. Rigid support, so no support wires are required. 2. Plastic foundation has deeper worker cell imprints, which attempts to force the bees to make worker cells; though the bees don't read our books and will occasionally make drone cells anyway (like they also do with natural beeswax foundation). 3. Plastic foundation guarantees the bees won't cut passage holes in the foundation; thereby giving the drawn comb a more uniform appearance. 4. Plastic foundation comes in colors to make spotting eggs easier. The two most common colors are yellow and black. Some beekeepers claim the black foundation base makes it easier to spot eggs. 5. Beekeepers that use plastic foundation to sell NUCs tell me that the bees draw comb more uniformly; thereby creating a neater appearance; which they claim helps sell their NUCs better (in their opinion). 6. Frame choice is easy. You use a grooved top, grooved bottom, and end bars without holes. 7. Removing and installing the plastic foundation is easy when there is no drawn comb on it. You simply push on it to pop it out or in. Cons: 1. Bees can reject the plastic foundation and will potentially abscond (leave) the hive altogether. I have heard several people tell me their bees rejected it and absconded. Absconding is when the bees permanently leave the hive and find a home somewhere else. I've had other beekeepers tell me their bees accept it and they (the beekeeper) loves plastic foundation. Bees tend to reject black plastic foundation more than the yellow plastic foundation. 2. Plastic foundation is hard, if not nearly impossible, to remove a single queen cell without damaging it to do a single queen cell split. You have to use the entire frame in a queen cell split. You would simply destroy all but two to three of the best looking queen cells then place the entire frame in the queen cell split. Bees can produce many queen cells if they want. I once had a colony place 10 swarm queen cells on one frame. 3. Replacing old, dark comb on plastic foundation is more challenging than on natural beeswax. The most common way to replace old wax on plastic foundation is to first scrape off as much of the old, dark foundation with a tool such as putty knife. You could then use a couple of small bricks to hold the frame down on a driveway, or other surface (procedure told to me by another beekeeper who prefers plastic foundation). You then use a portable power sprayer to jet spray off the remaining old wax. I have had other beekeepers tell me they simply scrape off the old comb and put it back in the hive without further removing the remaining debris (I don't know the rejection rates with this method). You then have to carefully melt new wax and "paint" the wax on the plastic again with a small hobby brush or small glue brush. 4. Bees can still draw out comb in unusual manner such as creating tunnels in the drawn comb as they draw out comb (listed as a con, but it's actually a draw since they do the same thing with natural beeswax too). 5. Plastic foundation is more expensive than natural beeswax foundation. 6. You are "potentially" introducing unwanted chemicals into the hive, depending on what the plastic foundation is made of; though this is an extremely minor concern; especially since the bees will encapsulate the plastic with wax if they accept the foundation. Experiment! The bees will let you know if they think you are wrong. That's how you learn! Use some plastic foundation and some natural beeswax foundation and see which the bees prefer. I would place plastic foundation on one side of the hive and natural beeswax foundation on the other side of the hive and see which they build comb on faster. I hope this helps.

Thank you. I forgot to mention bee schools too.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thank you! It was a fun project.