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Jeremy Tomlinson
Приєднався 24 вер 2007
Jeremy Tomlinson is the founder of the Vancouver BC based Urban Woodworker, a community woodworking school. We offer short courses for the complete beginner to advanced courses for professionals. Most courses are offered with weekly sessions with some courses being full time one week long Intensives
Sharpening Part 1 - Plane irons
A comprehensive tutorial on sharpening a hand plane iron using a simple honing guide
Переглядів: 217
Відео
Making dog hole adapters for bench lamps
Переглядів 5383 роки тому
Our woodworking benches most often have a row or two of 3/4" or 20mm dog holes. Use these to locate a commonly available spring arm lamp to allow rapid placement of the lamp wherever its most needed.
Ebonizing Wood with home made Iron Acetate and Bark Tannin
Переглядів 23 тис.4 роки тому
using a home brew of steel wool, vinegar to make iron acetate along with some ground up bark and water you can turn wood, especially oak, dark black maintaining all of the woods surface details - unlike paint and most stains.
Urban Woodworker - Woodworking - Gluing Edges
Переглядів 2324 роки тому
Best practises for gluing up panels, table tops etc. No more curved assemblies. www.urbanwoodworker.com
Springarm lamp fix
Переглядів 14 тис.4 роки тому
Fix a swingarm lamp that wont stay up. Takes just a few minutes and that cheap lamp will work like a pro again. These cheap lamps are a great lamp for the woodworking bench, desk or sewing table etc.
Sharpening Planes and Chisels at Lie-Nielsen Open House
Переглядів 17 тис.10 років тому
Basic fundamentals of achieving consistent results sharpening Hand Planes and chisels. This video covers; Flattening Water stones using a DMT Diaflat Lapping plate 150 grit The bevels and back of the blade and their contribution to the process of achieving a sharp edge Setting the honing angles Water stones What to look for during the process Finishing the process How do you know when its time ...
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Jesus wept! How many people ruined a vintage Anglepoise watching this? Just replace the springs! They lost tension over time!
I've been having a bit of issues getting the iron acetate solution to get into the pores of the oak. Have you had issues with this and any suggestions how to overcome it?
Dave. Thanks for looking and your question. I cant report such difficulty, no however i can imagine it. Have you raised the grain and resanded? If so to what grit?. I just wonder if the surface is too burnished? You could try warming the solution.
What grit are you sanding thr surface down to? 220 or so is the finest you should go to or you risk the sawdust filling the pores of the wood, preventing penetration of the stain.
I'm wondering, now that I've successfully dissolved 1lb of steel whool, what are the risks of "metal fume fever"?
Brilliant!
Amazing video, thansl for uploading it, i just have a question, what kind of bark would be the best for it? I think i can get tepezcohuite or Quebracho but can i use cinnamon? Technically it's kind of bark
How long does the solution hold for ? Can I make a batch and just keep it for a year ? Or is it best to prepare just a few days ahead of use ?
I would like to see the process used on end grain. Thank you.
Absolutey perfect fix - just what i was looking for
tight and efficient. Good video.
The gas produced is hydrogen. Hydrogen goes boom. I know from experience.
Sure yes BUT you won’t get to an unstable H2 to O2 ratio. Neither would you be able to in a regular shop environment as the H2 concentration would dissipate fast being about 1/16 the mass of O2.
does ebonizing work on outside decks and help protect the wood??
I just learned about this process the other day and gonna try it on one of my coasters if it works well then I may try it on a grip of gun grips
THE PROBLEM I HAVE WITH THE MIXTURE, IS THAT IT KINDA HAS AN ODOR AFTER ALL IS DONE WITH THE WOOD..
I'm restoring my late grandpa's desk lamp that he used, so that I can use it on my workbench. I've been pulling my hair out trying to find a way to get it to stay in position and I don't know why I hadn't considered just moving the spring attachments further... Thanks!
What type of clear/top coat would you recommend over this ebonizing treatment?
Great advice! I found this video while looking for one to help with another issue. I have a swing arm lamp with a broken switch (at the top as is typical I assume). The "innards" have dropped down from the top inside the shade. The cord is still sitting inside, attached to the bulb base. I don't know how to replace or fix the switch. Might you have advice on how to do that? I hope so - I'll keep my eyes on your space :). Thanks!
Enjoyable, informative video. I created a fix which will hopefully extend the time for reaching for the drill. I switched the upper springs with the lower springs and the lamp stays in position…for now. Checking hardware stores for new springs. Spring fatigue happens. .
4 ot not 4 zero
Hi Jeremy- liked your video and hope it may help me out in future. My issue now is replacing my luxo LS1 bulb….it doesn’t seem to be a traditional twist or screw bulb so I’m not sure how to replace? Also do these lamps only take luxo bulbs?
Can I just use smaller springs? I don’t have a drill.
Sure it can work with the right spring. Getting the springs can be difficult
Here is a hack for you: Black leather dye. Yep.
So is this food safe? Can I use it on a cutting board?
I would think that once it dried it would be food safe, but the ebonizing doesn't go very deep and if you were to cut on the board the lighter color would come through
Dude I loved your non-chalance and F-it attitude. Straight to the point, and wow that really is simple fix! thank you
Thank you. Glad it helps.
Does the wood need to be sanded prior?
You should not sand past 320 grit and be sure to change your sandpaper ofter so you don't burnish the surface. The sweet spot for getting good absorption is said to be between 220 and 320. I am working on some sample boards on Ash, which has no tannin. I used the bark tea first, then the iron acetate, Let it dry for an hour, then the bark tea again. The color is a really deep brown/black. I did samples of shellac and wax for a finish and a water base finish. My only issue was that I sanded through the color on the edges between coats. I need to be more careful. Hope this helps.
Mr Jeremy thank you very much.
Wow. That's it?! Thank you for this! Won't the springs run out of tension eventually, though? And you'll run out of space to move the screw? What then?
So far this fix holds up. I don’t expect there should be issue going forward as the springs no longer will have to work as hard, however they may fatigue depending on the lamp you have and the springs it came with. So far for Ikea lamps it’s worked for a number of years.
Thanks!! Was about to throw mine away!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I am a designer and take pride in my mediums and tools. After having this issue with my very expensive lamp I was hesitant to make a new purchase for fear of getting the same issue but out of necessity, purchased another swingarm only to have the issue again. Recently, a neighbor in my building threw out their lamp and I recovered it and will now be able to enjoy this lamp along with the others that I have kept. Wow, this information is a real gem.
I am very glad this helps. Thank you for your comment.
Wow!!! that saved me a ton of time. Thanks
I have about 4 mag swing arm exam room lamps with internal springs. They always break so I'm left with a bunch of rolling floor stand mag lamp bases & would prefer to repair them before switching over to goosenecks. The gooseneck exam lamps typically have plastic lenses or lower diopter smaller glass loupes because they don't hold the weight for long & lack tightening knobs for holding a set position. I attempted to repair a few of the type I have in the past, but the spring tension makes it unbelievably impossible to reconnect internally & the components along the joints are a bit different that the type in video. Going to attempt to mount external springs to work like yours in video, but man are they ever so prone to breaking.
Wouldn't shortening the springs have the same effect?
It would help sure. I have tried that but it doesn’t last cause you end up easily overextending the spring. I have tried other methods - I run 18 of these lamps and have had my share of frustration. My method i like better due to there being better leverage for weak or weakened springs. You could also buy new springs. Regardless I present a solution but I recognize it’s not the only one. I just prefer this one.
@@xandoo1962 Good information. Thanks.
Hello, I'm repairing a lamp and I found a pair of magnets iside the triangular piece that joins head and arm... I was wondering if it's there for an important technical reason??? I have constructed simple lamps before and haven't found that magnets were part of the circuit... Any advice?
I am sorry I missed this - maybe too late now but I have not found magnets in that location before. I also cant see the reason.
Where do you get the springs from? I have two missing? I can’t find any swing arm lamp parts anywhere online.
Nice video. You should consider adding the recipes for the tannin and iron acetate solution to the description.
@Colten Griffin Try this simple trick: \/ \/ \/ \/ Scroll down to see <queues music>
Thank you good sir, my lamp was drooping and I couldn't stand it
A south african bloke working at lie nielsen? Love it. Great technique
This guys a wizard!!! His example on the ‘blade telling you when it’s losing it’s edge’ is just the truth, it could be 5 mins later and your sharpening again. Sooner than you’d like We need teachers like this!!!!
Thx Kenny. You are correct. Better get to accept sharpening and even enjoy it, cause as you say it can be every 5 minutes. You can actually hear when the blades sharpness is compromised let alone see it in the surface. Cheers.
Anytime. I appreciate you doing a video like this. You explained the concept and process very well, gave real good reasoning behind why you say do it ‘this way’ which I think is critical to people understanding how is knowing why as well. Gives you a more solid belief behind how your doing it! Again sir, thank you!
Rob cosman has some great sharpening advise aswell. Worth a watch but great video
@@treesoul7907 South African born yes!!! I can’t argue with any other methods that work. I present one method out of many here. I was taught old school, much like Cosman, and started sharpening chisels when I was 9 years old. However over the years teaching people I have come to the point of view that getting someone success, even with “training wheels” is more important than the difficulty and failure to get it right by free hand. The free hand success can come later. For some it never does and so this method is good for many. How you get sharp is not important. At least that’s one man’s opinion. Cheers.
This really helped me understand how to fix my lamp! I was going to try to find replacement springs, but this seems easier and faster!
Well, I immediately modified my lamp. I used 1.5". Now it won't stay down. Too much tension. But I disconnected one of the springs and now have just the right amount of tension. hopefully, when it begins to sag again, I can just re-connect the second spring and be good to go again. But your solution is a good one.
Thanks for that finding. I don’t think it would weaken the arm to drill another hole half way between them. But it’s good to know that 1.5” may be the general maximum modified distance. I supposed different manufacturers and different spring tensions are the main reason. At least we don’t have to throw out a lamp that still has some life left.
excellent. thanks.
is it possible you can make a video on the base you made? I've been looking for something like this for taking pictures of items with a white backdrop and this makes it easy to position the light.
Fix works perfectly, thanks!
I have a simpler problem, a swivel arm lamp with one joint and zero sprints. It was too tight so I sprayed WD40 inside it and now it cannot retain a position, way too loose! Do you know, please, what I can do to this joint to stiffen it back up again? (...obviously, there is not screw at the joint I can use :-) )
Thanks for sharing this! I have several lamps like this and one of the just started doing this.
Good presentation. Thank you.
I have no idea about sharpening blades .that was interesting.
Where can I get a lamp like that?
I use the english woodworkers method. I get a shave sharp blade by hand in under a minute. Sharpening is not a chore anymore. I highly recomend it