Відео

Yes, that was a joke.

Sorry, but mending from a stroke. i can't tend to my channel right now.

Plus mark82 cam

Plus mark82 camshaft

For mostly street with occasional drag duty i would recommend that. If it's mostly drag and occasional street, it could work ok with more stall. I would keep an eye on trans temp if I did that though.

With the copper color springs, it is all in at 3000rpm. Not sure if I'm still too aggressive because it was a cool day about 35f when I road tested, so I'm waiting for warm weather to see how it likes it. If it spark knocks, my next try will be using one copper spring, and one silver spring. This would put max timing to a higher rpm.

I actually have the original engine. They are nice engines. I didn't want to modify it, or ruin it, so I keep it on an engine stand, where it won't get hurt. I might put it back some day.

@@timsprojectcar1875 Hard to come by those old rockets are. Mothballing it isn't a horrible idea since Oldsmobile stopped making their own engines back in 75 and started using Chevy and Buick engines.

@@TiborRoussou True. I figured if I break this one, I might be out of luck replacing it. Also if I sell the car, a buyer may want the correct engine, and I have it. That may not matter though, since I don't want to sell it anyway.

@@timsprojectcar1875 I still have my factory assembly manual for my old Olds!

Absolutely!

The stall speed depends on the power curve of the engine. That may be the right stall, I don't know. However powerglides are used in drag racing, but I believe they tend to need frequent rebuilds. My Cutlass came with a powerglide, or "jet away" as Oldsmobile called it. I asked a transmission shop about building it to bracket race. He told me don't use it, as it won't last. My car also weighs 3500 pounds. With enough cooling, you can keep the temperature down, but longevity of the powerglide, I have to defer to the transmission shop.

If you are making much more than 450 foot pounds, and it sounds like you probably are, you would need to call a vendor and spec a converter to hold the torque you make at the RPM you want. A off the shelf converter may not be strong enough to live behind that engine. It may also stall higher than rated. Thats all I have. Good luck with it.

Thanks for your response. I had PTC to build the converter for me,it wasn't off the shelf thanks

More gear will reduce the load on the torque converter at part throttle cruising for sure. The correct gear for your turbo motor I don't know. Turbo motors are tough, because the torque curve can be changed a lot with tuning. 2.73 is pretty tall, though. 3.31 would be an improvement, though I expect a bit more gear would be appropriate, like about 3.73 maybe. I would add an oil cooler with a dedicated fan if you don't already have it.

I don't have any. I had plans for at least one track day this summer, but parts back orders slowed things down a lot. I bought this car as a basket case. It has been a lot more work than I had hoped. Next year I guess.

Your welcome

Cheap tools do have their limitations.

Thanks. I'm just an amateur at it really. Lots of trial and error

Thanks.

British 20W50 Duckhams is green and has plenty of ZddP

Thanks. I didn't know about that. Good info

SME-2015 from Summit Racing

Thanks. It has worked for me so far.👍

Absolutely will! Thanks for the feedback.🎯

I respectfully disagree. The stall speed does vary with torque input, which is why converters are often listed as a range, like 2400-2800 and so on. However said converter cruising at 2800 at part throttle is locked, because it is centrifugal force that is aiding in that happening. The math in my video is not related to the torque converter itself. It's just a means to calculate cruising RPM for people in the planning stage, who don't have their cars assembled yet. My only premise in the video is to choose a stall rating close to cruise RPM to control heat build up in street driving. It's a conservative recommendation leaning more toward street than drag racing, as in my opinion thats where most cars spend most of their time. There's nothing wrong with running more stall speed if you want to. The object of having a hot rod is to have fun after all. Just depends how you want your car to behave. Anyway, best of luck with everything. Take care, Tim.

@@timsprojectcar1875 Tim, thanks for being polite about this, but I have to tell you that again you're wrong in what you said in your reply. You mentioned "which is why converters are often listed in a range like 2,400-2800, (RPM)" but what many novice guys don't know is that off-the -shelf crappy converters are the only ones where the retailers/manufactures list an rpm range. Because most experienced amateur drag racers who also drive their street/strip cars on that street know that any purchase of decent, well made, quality torque converter requires the customer to fill out a "vehicle spec sheet" or at least call the sales person on the phone so that they can fill it out for him after asking several questions such as vehicle weight, tire height, engine horsepower, camshaft specs, first gear transmission ratio, and rear gear ratio. Without that information there is no way the manufacture can ever get the stall speed RPM correct for your vehicle combo since there are just too many variables which will effect stall speed RPM. Furthermore, it is NOT centrifugal force alone which controls and dictates stall speed RPM as you've claimed. It's the fin count and angle of the fins welded in the stator of the torque converter which does as well as the converter diameter. And that is why when owners of hi-performance cars as well as drag race cars want a stall speed RPM change, they have to send the converter back to the manufacture, so they can replace the stator in the torque converter with one that has a different number of fins welded into it, and/or a different angle on those fins. So again, your torque converter regardless of brand and size will never come close to the stall speed, (known as "flash" rpm) during cruising when you're using part throttle input. The stall speed rpm rating is always at full throttle ONLY. So although I'm sure your intent is well, I have to tell you that you've been misleading your audience BIG TIME. If you don't believe me, then call any of the well known torque converter manufacturers which have a good reputation, (ie. Coan, Neal Chance, Hughs, etc., etc.) and ask them about what I'm telling you here, and they will confirm my claims. Also what many people don't understand is the reason why you should never buy a torque converter without you or the sales person filling out a vehicle spec sheet is due to the fact that any given torque converter will exhibit a different stall speed RPM in any given vehicle it's installed in. FOR EXAMPLE: If you have a converter in your car that weighs 3,500 lbs and it creates a 3,000 rpm stall speed, and you remove it and sell it to me and I put it in my 4,000 lb car, that same converter that created a 3,000 rpm stall speed in your car will now create a much higher rpm stall speed in my car since it's 500 lbs heavier than your car is. And vehicle weight is just one of the many contributing factors that determine stall speed RPM. And if the reailer and/ manufacture doesn't know and inquire about your vehicle weight, as well as many other factors, then their stall speed rpm "range" claim is non-sense and their converter is a cheap piece of garbage. Here's another example: When you're driving your car with only you behind the wheel, your stall speed RPM will be lower than it would be when you have 4 people in the car, (three adult passengers I mean) since the vehicle weight is increased by about 500 to 600 lbs. But again that's during FULL wide open throttle input. OK I've done all I can do here. If you don't care to listen then you'll continue to spread misinformation about torque converter choices and stall speed RPM. I'm merely trying to educate you Tim, as well as your readers. What you've said and claimed is simply NOT true regardless of how much you want to believe it.

@@mean70632 Hughes performance "EP. 5 Torque converters 101: What is stall speed?" is a good video to watch. I didn't think I contradicted anything I heard in their videos, but maybe I did. I know for sure I heard either them or Monster say to use a stall speed close to cruise RPM in a street application. I'm going to start looking for that video, so I can name it specifically if I can find it. I didn't conjure that up on my own I promise.

Summit racing has an article recommending that stall speed should be kept lower than cruise RPM

I hate to admit this, but I don't know the cause for it not up-shifting at full throttle. I have never worked on Fords. It doesn't sound like torque converter to me though. I have messed with the governor on my 700r4, which can affect shift points, but I don't know if a stuck governor can stop it from shifting altogether. The place I would look before taking it to a transmission shop is the throttle valve and/or TV cable, to see if it is stuck or damaged. Lastly, I don't think overdrives will go into overdrive at WOT anyway, but 1,2,and 3 should work. Sorry I can't be more help.

I just watched a video by monster transmission on how to clean the governor on an AOD transmission. That may be of interest. I don't know if it's the solution, but it is worth a try.

Thank you

Thank you

I'm sorry it will up shift but 3800 is the max shift points. I thank you again. It probably is a dirty governor limiting the rpms.

Good afternoon. The stall is fine if the engine is stock. I did the calculation with your gear ratio for a high performance street application. I assumed a cruising speed of 60mph, a tire diameter of 26", a typical converter slip of 5%, and the result was 2785rpm at 60mph in 3rd gear. If your engine has a different cam, and so on, a 2800 stall would be good. Depends how big the cam is of course. If you have an overdrive transmission, I believe you can get a converter with that stall speed and retain the lock up feature.

@@timsprojectcar1875 yes my transmission has over Drive

That's the premise I was working with. This will make a good compromise between driveability, performance and heat build up. It can work running higher stall speeds, but very good cooling would be needed. A good transmission cooler with a dedicated fan would be advised for higher stall speeds.

It does. I would add a good transmission cooler if you haven't already. A temperature gauge for the transmission is also a good idea. Heat is the main thing to watch for.

That sounds pretty stout. It must just vaporize tires! I see you already have a trans cooler with a fan. That should work great.

@@timsprojectcar1875 My set up runs a steady 160-170 degrees.

This article doesn't contradict David Vizards formula. It merely explains an available tool to predict cranking compression before the build so you can get something that runs on available gas. Cranking compression much above 185 or so gets touchy on pump gas. I tried 215 cranking compression on the street once, and broke 2 pistons due to detonation.. I'm just sharing what I find is all. Cheers!

Tim is right, just a useful tool.... before an engine build/rebuild you should have your game plan in place. Just finished a harley rebuild and I use big boyz compression calculator on their website. By the way, DV literally wrote the book on "how to make HP" ...DV is a legend

@@clydewatson7889 Thanks.

Whatever works.

The ICA, or intake centerline angle is the point where the intake valve is at its maximum lift. This is a reference point when checking cam timing with a degree wheel. A degree wheel kit like you can buy from Jegs has instructions how to do it. Checking it lets you know if all your parts are installed correctly, or if any are out of tolerance. For instance, if your cam card says to install at an ICA of 106, and your measured result with the wheel is 109, then you are installed 3 degrees retarded. If you wanted to correct that, you would need an adjustable timing chain set, that will allow you to advance it 3 degrees to achieve 106.

Most people don't watch all the video, regardless of length. Generally half have dropped off in the first few minutes. So for me to get my point across, I put most info in the first few minutes, and keep it short. I try to offer some content all the way through for those that watch it all. But I also spread it out over more videos to make the most of the content that I have.🤠

I understand it's possible to make that work, but my approach is more conservative. I'm sharing what I believe will work good and be reliable. I stated in my video you can run higher stall with enough cooling, so I really didn't say you can't do that. Just tthat I wouldn't recommend it. It's all good. Enjoy!

High stall converters suck on the street. They build up too much heat quickly especially climbing hills.

@@musclebone7875 A good converter will drive almost like a stock one at part throttle but flash to high RPM when you go full throttle. Should not generate any additional heat at part throttle. If it does you need a better converter.

@@Steve69SS396 I don't believe that one bit. It's too many variables that go with that. Only way that a high stall converter would work well on the street if it was a lockup converter. I had a 4,000 stall 3,500 stall, and a 2,500 stall in my car. The 2,500 is way better. High stall is only good for launching from a dig. The 2,500 stall launches hard from a dig, a roll, and cruisers down the highway for long trips great.

@@musclebone7875 Here's a video of me driving around town in my car. Most of the time I'm shifting it at 3,000rpm and driving between 2-3K. At about 5:20 in the video I go full throttle and short shift the car and you will see that the RPM's don't drop below 6K. I'm not saying that every car needs a 4-5K converter. I'm saying that it ridiculous to worry about your stall speed being higher than your cruise RPM. I've been running converters like this in my car for 20years. ua-cam.com/video/A2qhJIIFyyI/v-deo.htmlsi=SV_ieuqNnGzVhTk1