Відео

Great feedback. Thanks for sharing. This machine did thousands of cuts in the time i had it. I was reasonably happy with what it was for what I paid. That being said, i could never just let the weight of the saw run through the material, I would always have to reduce the pressure on the material as it cut through or the band would stall (perhaps too many teeth on the blade). This saw has now found new home, donated to one of the local mens sheds in Australia.

Yes, and yes i sold it. Can't figure out how to send you a PM through youtube?

@@dylanhillier8107Ah nice! Did you only sell it recently or has it gone through a few owners? Do you happen to remember the odometer reading before the TrailTech unit was fitted? Any info about the bike is appreciated - I live in Adelaide and am having it shipped over. Cheers!

If it is the same bike, and it hadn't gone through someone else first, then you should have also received all original parts, spares, etc, along with the bike. This box of stuff would contain the answers you seek. Also, if you bought the bike you would notice it had the same tires as in this video which gives a pretty good indication of, sadly, how little it had been ridden over the past few years.

As you can probably tell from my quality video uploads, im not the worlds best content provider ;) hahaha.. It has done maybe ~500 cuts through various materials mostly angle iron. Once its setup, and the blade is running true, its pretty solid in terms of getting consistent cuts. My only gripe with it is that i'd like to have been able to set it up for a cut, then just let it do its thing. However, i find without some kind of automatic pressure control on down feed, i have to watch it and manually control the cut pressure. Would i buy it again, yeah probably, unless it wasn't much more to get down feed control.

Probably, but back when I bought mine there weren't many options that didn't exceed the cost of the bike and other ones were hard to come by. Great to hear they are easier to get now and fit right the first time. 👌

Yeah, I do the dodgy wd40 spray to keep it running moist 👌

What profile rear tyre are you running and does the tyre hit the chain only when riding?

@@OzDizzer 150 sport demon. Hits when riding. I've done a few hundred k's (hills and hwy) and it's barely eating away at the side. I think a brand new chain should totally fix it as this chain is at least 10,000ks old. currently only 5mm between chain and tyre's edge and is properly tensioned.

I haven't needed to do much to it other than tweaking the blade guides so it cuts perpendicular as the blade drops and adjusting the spring setting to reduce pressure on the blade if I let it cut by itself. Foam strip sounds like a good idea, mine has the same horrible noise. I think if I was to modify it is probably try to fit some kind of hydraulic down feed control. If I was to get more exotic than that it's probably time to sell and buy a better model 😁

Yeah i think with these kinds of things you can get lucky, or in your case, unlucky. So far i haven't had any major issues. If i used it more often and could justify spending more i would have gone something a bit larger and better made. But for what it costs and what i use it for, it's ok.

Thanks for the tip about the spring, will give it a go. As for the blade guide causing alignment issues, i haven't hit those yet, most of what i cut i can use the narrowest setting.In general, the machining/bolts/adjustment of the upper bearings/guide isn't precision enough to take the pain out of getting the alignment right. But, as you said, it's better than using an abrasive chop saw. Blade adjustment/squaring is fiddly, and that probably warrants a video of it''s own. Thanks for the feedback re-video. I knew when i was editing my iphone footage it was going to be less than desirable but i thought i'd publish anyway. I'm far from what you would call a seasoned youtuber. 🤣

Other things i have since noticed. If you adjust the angle of the cut, the stopper which pushes the off button changes height, so where it would stop automatically on a 90 degree cut, on the 45 degree cut it doesn't.

@@OzDizzer That's weird. I've never had that happen. Changing the cut angle shouldn't effect the auto stop at all. The auto stop is mounted to the same plate as the hinge/blade/motor and swivels with the saw on the same axis. It should never change position in relation to the stopper bolt. As I'm sure you already know, adjusting the auto stop is easy (even with a hammer), but you shouldn't have to after changing the angle.

@@rolandellis5309 hrmmm.. I will take another look this weekend. Maybe I hit it with something. If I can reproduce I will post a video.

@@OzDizzer Good Luck. BTW I had a closer look at a couple of Scott Turner's videos it looks like he doesn't adjust his blade guide spacing at all. Taking that on board I fought with my saw and have set the spacing so that it should be wide enough for the sizes and angles I usually cut. So far so good and the accuracy is awesome.

This does not have signal light indicators. Also, I'm also not sure what you mean by wheel spacers. If your talking about the eliminator for the OEM cable drive, then no. This is something you will have to get elsewhere. Trailtech may have released something newer. It would be worth taking a look at their site.

Tank To Chest I’d agree if the intention was for it to spend most of its life on tarmac.

Imran Bahar I bought mine from amazon.com many moons ago, possibly before EBC changed products codes and caused a lot of problems. You could try thumpertalk.com/shop as they still sell kits. You may need to cut down the supplied bolts to ensure when you tighten them up the bolt doesn’t protrude through the back of the bracket and hit the caliper.

@@OzDizzer thanks alot for the reply Appriciate Do you have the parts number? Or how can i search thet spare parts what i have to type when im searching?

@@mib668 Try the following link, they have the brackets by themselves or as part of a kit. NOTE: Don't blindly order, check with them prior to ensure it is what you actually need and that it will fit. It does look like they have reviewed their part numbers: ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/suzuki/dr-z-400-sy-ey-y-sek1-ek1-k1-sk2-ek2-k2-k3-sk3-ek3-k4-sk4-ek4-sk5-ek5-k5-ek5-ek6-sk6-k6-sk7-ek7-k7-sk8/2000-2008/37790

Nothing, installing the trailtech will mean you lose the lights you have on your standard dash. I don't miss them, never looked at them anyway.

The factory speedo is cable drive, so i removed the cable. As for any plugs loose plugs, i would have just tucked them into the velcro wrap thing behind the headlight.

The speedo eliminator (B&B) is exactly the same width as the factory speedo. From what i can remember the B&B requires no spacer run inside it. Ie. you eliminate the need for a spacer or the factory speedo pickup. Ideally brake disc would be centered in the brake caliper, much like the factory one. I *believe* spacers should be setup such that the overall width of the wheel and spacers between the forks is exactly the same as factory whilst ensuring the brake disc remains centered in the caliper. At this point your probably thinking, well doesn't that mean the wheel is no longer centered in the forks... and you would be right.. however... i also *believe* this is common and not really an issue. If you think about the back tire, if its wider than the factory one, then this will almost definitely result in the rear hub needing to be wider to space the sprocket out so the chain doesn't rub on the tire. This will move the center line of the tire to the right, away from the chain. You could play with spacers here to try to center the tire more, and push the sprocket closer to the swing arm, but this would also require that you somehow space the engine sprocket further out from the engine. A related point of interest is that i dont think the centerline of the front tire on the bike will line up with the rear tire centerline.. and again i *believe* this is normal. If i was to do it again.. i would probably do as i said above.. center the disc in the caliper with custom spacers.. this would mean you can run proper tapered sprocket bolts (not the rubbish you see in my vid.. found out they are are poor choice) whilst still clearing the cast portion on the bottom of the fork. Failing that, i might consider sticking the hubs in a lathe and shaving 1mm off the face of it to inset the disc a bit more. On a related note, i strongly recommend having the spokes on those rims re-torqued..

So it won't be too much of an issue if it's not quite centred? I managed to move it over jus a touch more with a 2mm washer but haven't had time to tighten up and spin the wheel to see how the brake rotor feels in the pads. Is your front wheel central or off by a few mm? Thank you for the quick response and priceless info. It's good to ask someone directly who has done the same conversion. Not a lot of people have theses wheel sets.

I'm also using stock rotors with different bolts the original bolt stripped on the dirt rim so I drilled them out. The new ones are even more flush and high tensile.

Yeah not too bad to swap back once you have done it a few times. Biggest pain is probably the chain if your don't use a master link which can be easily removed. Probably < 30 minutes. Ideally, if you go from stocker rims to motards you should also adjust the headlight. Swapping the kickstand is pretty straight forward as well.

Yeah, it would be awesome if Torpedo 7 would fix their kit and send me one that has better spacers ;)

+gargantuandick , with a name like that you don't need brakes, just unzip and use it as a land anchor.. hahaha. In regards to the rims, wheels, i took them off to put offroad set back on for a while. Thoughts at this stage are: * You should get a bigger brake disc. * The offset spacers or the machining of the hubs doesnt seem quite right: ** The alignment of the rear sprocket with the engine sprocket is a bit off. Not sure if they have fixed this in with that they currently sell, but its something i think i would prefer to resolve if i was to put them back on. ** The alignment of the front brake disc in the caliper is off by a couple of mm. Which although it doesnt sound like much, given the tolerances of everything between the forks it makes a noteable difference.

+Brian Hunt yeah it just snaps on. I think it came with two mounting arms, i assume your using the right sized one? I have had it on and off a few times moving it over to new bars.

+OzDizzer you i have small bars and im useing the small bars one it just seems ver ridged i just didnt want to snap it by forceing it on there ya know

+ElectricRides agreed... i will take donations ;)

+Kyle Corney there should be enough space for the wheel sensor pickup to physically fit. In terms of placement, it can be a bit fiddly. You need to fit the magnetic puck first, then rotate the wheel until the puck is near the bracket where you need to mount the sensor, then you need to trial fit holding with your hand or someone else helping. You need to make sure the magnetic puck will pass the right part of the sensor when the wheel spins. I used a marker on the bracket to indicate where the sensor needs to be mounted. Then removed the wheel and drilled a pilot hole and screwed the sensor on. Take your time with this because you don't want to mess up drilling holes into the brake calliper relocation bracket.

+Scott teh caliper relocator bracket and 320mm shoudl do the trick. Make sure you're buying the right relocator

+EthanKRETA that's the problem. i can't find the "right one"

+Scott teh I bought mine in 2013 from: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00666L14G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 However, someone put a comment on there that they were sent the wrong bracket which caused problems. I didn't have bracket problems, but i did have issues with the supplied bolts being too long. Will try to figure out the the bracket type is over the weekend and post.

I can solve bolt length problem. But confirmation on bracket would be great. Thanks

My bracket has SM-015 written on it. It looks very much like this one: www.motostrano.com/EBC-DRZ-400-Brake-Caliper-Relocator-close-out-p/015.htm That being said, motostrano looks like a massive rip off. Looking at the EBC website, it looks like they provide a relocator with the disc. I guess you need to specify which one you need when you order the disc. ebcbrakes.com/product/supermotard-contour-rotor-kit/

+Dargle Stickstopper Not sure.. i put these wheels on quite some time ago and they have not been off since. Your best bet is to contact them and discuss how they are supposed to be fit.. then explain why yours doesn't look right.

+OzDizzer - Torpedo 7 got back to me. I have to say their customer service was really good. The wheels were delivered in only about 3 days, and they were very quick to respond to my question on the bearing size. They confirmed that the 25mm (internal diameter) on the rear bearings is correct, and the spacers not only space, but also reduce the internal diameter down to 20mm to suit the axle. I was initially concerned about this, but some googling suggests it's not unusual. Still need to pick up some bits and pieces, like disc rotor and sprocket, SM speedo drive (maybe), but then I'll go ahead and try to fit them!

Jorge Arraiol I used loctite to stop the bolts being undone. But yeah, you could break the mount and steal it, but i guess the same could be said about almost anything on a bike.

Dave Lum With any spoked wheels, particularly new ones, you need to check the spokes as they need time to bed in. You should be checking the spokes of your standard wheels regularly as well, or your mechanic should be. The wheels are ok, but like i said in the vid, the offsets can result in the front brake disc running real close to the cast portion of the lower fork and the rear sprocket is further out which means it will foul on the chain guide.

Im using 140/70R17 rear and 120/70ZR17 front battlax tyres. I believe there are a few variations you can choose for this setup but this combination is ok.

You can get more info on wheels and tyres in my other video: Australian DRZ400E Motard Conversion Information Only mods i have are the motard conversion, bark busters, bash guards, tail lights, B&B muffler tip and the trailtech. If i use the bike a bit more i think i will put a bigger fuel tank, maybe tweak suspension, and a luggage rack.