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Daniel B
United States
Приєднався 11 сер 2006
Wilson 1000 Antenna Fix: Intermittent High SWR, Loss of Signal, Drops Out
Hey everyone!
I was having some frustrating issues with my Wilson 1000 Mag Mount antenna, so I decided to take a look at it myself. I mean, how hard could it be, right?
Turns out, it wasn't too hard at all! I just had a bad solder connection on one of the three soldered points. Once I fixed that, the antenna worked great again!
I'm so excited to share this fix with you in this video. I hope it helps you out if you're having similar issues with your antenna.
So sit back, relax, and enjoy the show!
Cheers, 73!
Steps:
1. Remove antenna from roof and remove the mag mount (if applicable).
2. Remove antenna whip by loosening the two set screws.
3. Remove whip base by using pliers to twist it off.
4. Using a razor blade, or other tool, *carefully* break the seal between the top cap and the base.
5. Using a rubber or plastic hammer, tap the top of the antenna on the brass screw to get the antenna to separate.
6. Check the coil for any bad solder connections/joints.
7. Fix bad solder joints
8. Reassemble in the reverse order you took it apart.
9. Tune the antenna
... and you should be good to go!
I was having some frustrating issues with my Wilson 1000 Mag Mount antenna, so I decided to take a look at it myself. I mean, how hard could it be, right?
Turns out, it wasn't too hard at all! I just had a bad solder connection on one of the three soldered points. Once I fixed that, the antenna worked great again!
I'm so excited to share this fix with you in this video. I hope it helps you out if you're having similar issues with your antenna.
So sit back, relax, and enjoy the show!
Cheers, 73!
Steps:
1. Remove antenna from roof and remove the mag mount (if applicable).
2. Remove antenna whip by loosening the two set screws.
3. Remove whip base by using pliers to twist it off.
4. Using a razor blade, or other tool, *carefully* break the seal between the top cap and the base.
5. Using a rubber or plastic hammer, tap the top of the antenna on the brass screw to get the antenna to separate.
6. Check the coil for any bad solder connections/joints.
7. Fix bad solder joints
8. Reassemble in the reverse order you took it apart.
9. Tune the antenna
... and you should be good to go!
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Another overpriced Chinese junk
I will have to agree with you on that statement, @tropical41able. They definitely are not what they used to be. If I were to buy an antenna again, it would definitely not be a Wilson 1000; there are much better options out there.
Which one would you choose ?@DanielBrincat
@@klv400 I'd probably go with the Stryker SR-A10 mag mount if I didn't already have the Wilson 1000. But I have not used it personally so cannot say for sure if it's any good or not, but just what I have read, it seems like a pretty decent.
@@DanielBrincat Thanks
The beep from the multimeter is pretty much in key with the song LOL.
haha, never noticed that! Well, there ya go!
Did u ever figure out what the problem was
I replaced the starter relay and that worked for a while. I ended up replacing the battery, even thought it tested good, and that seemed to resolve the issue. Unfortunately I don't have the bike anymore. Best of luck!
Now i have this problem. What did you clean daniel?
I replaced the starter relay and cleaned/sanded the terminals and conectors on the battery and cables. I also had the battery tested, and it was near the end of its life so I replaced it too. It cranked over no problem after that. Hope that helps!
mine is doing this, but if i turn the bars it will start. i'm thinking loose wire or need to clean switch. any thoughts?
Yeah, I think you're on the right path. I'd start with the wiring since that is what is being manipulated with the turning of the handle bars. Best of luck!
Yo riders whats good.... My ZX9-R lost power over knight ..... It's like this I'am riding home from the gym & my bike starts to sputter but there gas in the tank .... So over knight my bike is only gets 3 { RPM } I need at least 4 { rpm } to shift... SO my man say's swap the volt reg. The plugs were lightly melted but now I get 7 { RPM } tops then she shuts off....Now the bike is dead I'll recharge the battery but it only goo for three cranks then it's dead what do I do ....? Help a brother out...
Try a new battery. My bike did something similar a few months ago... I was riding home and I turned on to my street and the bike just died. Lights out, kinda died. I turned the key off, back on and nothing. I though along the lines of voltage regulator, stator, things of that nature, but it ended up being the battery was shot. I thought, that once the bike was running, the stator would keep it running with out the battery, but that's not the case. A battery must be installed for the bike to run. So hopefully your situation will be as easily fixed. Good luck!
mine is doing the same thing. have you fixed it ???
Josef Raguro Unfortunately, no... I'm still trying to find a solution and if I do, I'll be sure to post it.
Replaced the starter relay, that fixed it for me. You can find one on eBay for under $12 shipped. www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-9r-forum/127641-intermittent-starting-issue.html#post2930642
Damn me too on 2000 zx7r. New battery, new on off switch. Mechanic said it might be key switch, but he charged me 150 to go over the wiring. He said next move would be change key switch.
If I had to assume, I'd say the switching unit is the thing the yellow, gray and brown (at least on my opener) are going into. I'm just speculating here, but that is the only thing that makes sense to me. I ended up just exchanging my opener for a new one since it was brand new, and that resolved my issue.
what is the switching unit? my door is not stopping when it goes up. it just keeps going up until it hard stops and trips the overload. it's going right past the electrical limit like yours was....
Joe, I ended up cleaning the switch under the clutch lever and that has resolved the issue for the time being.
Me 2 on a 97 ZX-9r I think it a solenoid issue
Excellent! Thanks for cracking that thing open and showing how it works. I just got done fixing my HD200D. The plastic screw in the center with the arms on it had popped completely out of its place, as had the one with the "close" contact on it. I carefully popped those back into their retainers. Also, I had to slightly bend the the metal part that hits the open/close contacts so that it would actually hit the "open" contact instead of just hitting the contact's plastic piece. Works now!
You're going to need to replace the limit switch assembly, there around $15-20 on any online garage door dealer.