Відео

No official date has been set yet. Ryan talks like we are close.

I'm anxious. Thanks for all the work.

The targeting lasers here are very low voltage and are powered by small batteries.

It’s close to being the same as the range of a Makita 700 series

If someone breaks the ice and uses closed loop steppers, they can no doubt provide advice for anyone else wanting to. This video’s cut, and the more recent one done in hardwood, were made with the NEMA 17 steppers getting 0.8 amps, sharp bit, no skipped steps! Closed loop steppers can be used but they are more expensive. This is not running on Marlin but rather on FluidNC firmware on the Jackpot control board bought from Ryan! If you have not checked out the FluidNC firmware with the WebU available through wifi, it's quite nice. It also supports a DIY pendant, called FluidDial, which I've built and you see that in the video! PS: I previously mentioned thinking they steppers were getting 1 amp each, but I double checked and they were using stock config amount of 0.8 amps.

@@design8studio Thanks for the info. I will definitely check that out. As for the closed loop motors, I am not sure I am using the word 'skipping' in the right context. With my L2 anytime the machine gets bogged down or maybe hits a harder spot in the wood, it tends to get out of alignment on 1 or more of the axis because the motor turned but the machine didn't move. You can hear the motors 'grinding' or whatever you want to call that very clearly. I don't think the problem is with the power of the actual motor. I would guess it comes from several different issues but the end result is one motor 'thinks' it moved the machine to a new position, but it didn't quite get it all the way there. Then every GCode command after that is off by that measurement.

​@@claib4 Yes, that is exactly what the term "skipping steps" refers to. The loud snapping could easily be mistaken for the belt teeth popping from one groove on the gear pulley to another groove, but it's actually the magnets and the stater in the motor losing one "connection" and popping over to the "next" magnetic connection. The issue of skipping steps arises when the real world resistance to the commanded movement is greater than the transmitted force of the motor and geared / belted transmission assembly can muster. There are at least two ways of combatting this: increase force power of the assembly, or reduce the resistance. The resistance can be a result of a dull bit. This can be overcome by a sharp bit. The resistance also comes because the feeds and speeds were incorrect, demanding too much, and this can be overcome by correcting the feeds and speeds. On the other side of the equation, the force power of the assembly can be increased by adding more current from the drivers to the steppers, but this has a limit because it adds heat to the steppers, which beyond a certain point, can soften / melt printed plastic motor mounts. In my most recent video, in which I tested the new LR4 pre-release designated RC2, I cut hardwood successfully using 50mm/sec feed rate, a 12mm depth of cut, and the motors at only 0.8 amps of current, with my stepper motors very cool, using a sharp bit, and I had no missed steps. I repeated the test three or four times, and never had a missed step. In high school I enrolled in a gymnastics class, and the coach had a saying: "The more balance you have, the less strength you need. The less balance you have, the more strength you need." If you have a lack of balance (parlance for dull bit and / or incorrect feeds and speeds), you will need more strength (parlance for either overly hot steppers or expensive closed loop steppers). May I humbly suggest before you go for closed loop steppers, i.e. simply throwing more money at the problem in order to add more power, double check for sharp bit and for correct feeds and speeds. I paid a one-time fee for GWizard calculator for figuring my feeds and speeds, but there are free calculator tools and spreadsheets available. Getting right feeds and speeds is one of the areas of greatest challenge for hobbyist CNC makers. It is also the area of greatest fruit when it is gotten right.

@@design8studio Thank you for taking the time to give such a great answer. I honestly don't know what amperage is running to my motors but after you explanation, I definitely want to investigate that more. I could see how that could effect it now. It's been a while since I messed with a feed/speed calculator but I will check one out again. I have been just adjusting that based on if I am getting good chips or sawdust. Again, thanks for the time and sharing!!

@@claib4 Nice thing about the Jackpot, the new control board Ryan makes and sells, is the driver current is set in the config file and easy to edit. Ryan's store sells temperature gauge stickers (thermometer stickers) that are made to stick onto the stepper motors, and they let you see how hot the motors are getting. At 0.8 amps, they stay quite cool, barely warm at all. The stickers read back in both Celsius and Fahrenheit, with the Celsius being in 5 degree increments. At 0.8 amps, mine show 30 Celsius lit up. The goal is stay no higher than 45 Celsius, I think. At 1.0 amps, mine are at the 45 Celsius increment. I did the amazing speed test video (where I cut the hardwood so easily) with 0.8 amps! I later tried 1.0 amps (too hot for me), and 0.9 amps (still borderline hotter than I wanted) and finally set them to 0.85 amps, which is where I left them. Another nice thing about the Jackpot is that its firmware is FluidNC, which not only supports wifi and the web-based user interface (WebUI), but it also supports the FluidDial, a DIY pendant. I've built one of the pendants for my big full-size LowRider, and now since I will have a smaller second LowRider as a result of being on the beta test team, I am building another FluidDial, so that both LowRiders will have one. You can see me using the FluidDial in the various test cut videos.

Yep. Just gravity. But the gantry is a beefy thing. With the nice big steel EMT tubes (OD of 29.5 mm) plus the weight of the router plus the hefty printed core, plus the stepper, plus the 5mm hardboard strut plates, plus the printed braces. There's a serious amount of gravity power holding it down.

These pre-release LR4 cores are hefty! Definitely beefy.

Hey for full details on a wide range of cutting uses with this Kobalt router, please check out my most recent five videos or so. They include cutting specifics for aluminum, MDF and hardwood.

This great video about it is from the guy who makes the ESTLcam software! ua-cam.com/video/ORJ-Q3TFW5o/v-deo.htmlsi=OSNCQH82_n_Cn9No

@design8studio Thank you, Sir!!! Dpug, should I learn Estlcam or Fluid NC software?

@@jimhinkle7245 ESTLcam is (as name implies) is CAM software (computer aided manufacturing) and is great at creating GCode files for the machine to execute. It accepts vector art files (such as SVG or DXF) and allows you to click on their vector paths to create cuts. FluidNC is firmware that controls the machine. It accepts the CGode file (which gets stored on an SD card in the Jackpot control board, and on command, it reads the GCode file and causes the CNC machine to make the cuts! Both are great!

@design8studio Thank you, Doug!!!

So, I don't know off the top of my head if there is a macro button for it, but the following command can be tweaked as needed and entered into the Console: PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200

@@miguelcirc Cool! Keep us updated on your progress on the V1 Engineering forum!

@@stevenfixo Will do. Speaking of speed, if you haven’t seen it yet, check out the video I released more recently than this one. Instead of 90 mm/s, I showed successful tests at 100, 125, and 150 mm/s. When I get release candidate 2 completed and running, I will try to do some test cuts in hardwood and aluminum.

The previous video was a carbide 2-flute up-cut bit, cutting MDF with a 12 mm depth of cut, but I had my RPMs too fast on the router. At least for a two flute bit it was too fast. This one was a carbide 1-flute up-cut bit.

Build the LR3 and get comfortable with it and then you could use it to cut hardboard strut plates and aluminum XZ plates to upgrade to a Lowrider v4! The hardware kit for the v3 and v4 versions are almost identical- only a difference of a few screws.

Most everyone on the beta team has built earlier LowRiders and says they can tell by feel that this gantry is more rigid. Just by tugging on it that’s my sense. For my struts I wanted 1/4 inch thick hardboard instead of 1/8 inch. I couldn’t find 1/4 inch at my local home improvement stores but I did find that Home Depot has some 5 mm thick hardboard listed as wainscoting. I used that and it’s working great. One side of it was either primed or painted white. I faced that out, and I used my CO2 laser to engrave the Lowrider name and V1 logo and my Design8Studio shop logo. I will aim to maybe start a build thread and post some pics that are OK to share now.

Excitement is building!

So depending on one's location globally, there are several tubing sizes being supported. I'm in the USA, so our choice here is 1" (ID) EMT (which is sold based on ID, even though the LowRider concern is about OD). This EMT has an OD of 29.5mm. I think a couple of other sizes being supported for international use are OD 30 mm and OD 32 mm.

Thank you ​@design8studio

@@design8studio Not sure if you're allowed to say, but the Y rail looks like it might be the same diameter EMT as the gantry this time around? Just trying to decide if I need to buy one or two pieces next time I'm at HD or Lowe's. I was about to hit you up with some questions on you LR3 mods, but looks like I'll just be patiently waiting for the LR4 release.

@@KeithKline Well that part does seem pretty settled, and so I think it’s OK for me to say that, yes, the EMT for the gantry and the Y rail is the same size. It is listed (at home improvement stores) as 1” EMT. That’s its inside diameter, but for LowRider we’re concerned with its outside diameter, and the OD for this EMT is 29.5 mm.

Cool! That would be awesome. Couple of things here. The hardware kit for the LR3 is not going to change very much to become an LR4 hardware kit. The difference comes down to just a few screws. When got into the beta team, I ordered the LR3 hardware kit to use for making the LR4 beta, totally adequate for it. The other point is ... no official date has been set yet, and I could not begin to guess at that. My general sense is that we are getting close to a final release candidate, but it's hard to say for certain. Ryan talks like we are close.

@@design8studio thank you for the fast reply! I'll keep my eyes open. I've been following you channel for a good while now and subscribed today. The mods you have made make it LR so much more complete and professional . Thank you for your contributions, R&D, and insight!

​@@ArtTistic Thanks! the LR4 is so, so nice, it won't need much of anything in the way of mods, but I'm sure the community will continue to think outside the box. Ryan has been incredibly attentive to various unusual non-stock ways in which the LR3 has been used, and in support he's added features to make the LR4 able to serve, in (new) stock configurations, for more of those uses that were previously non-stock. For instance, it will support homing to the opposite side of both the short and long axes, which provides built-in support for makers like me who swap their X and Y, and/or who flip the rail to the opposite side, or both.

@@ArtTistic Thanks for the sub!

This is pretty much a given. Ryan's already been talking about doing test cuts in aluminum, and one of the other beta testers is planning, and suggesting to me, to cut hardwood. I've got some maple. I think I can get some aluminum scraps that are 1/4" thick.

@@design8studio looking forward to that Doug. :)

That's a good plan! You can have your LR3 cutting strut plates and even aluminum XZ plates for your LR4 upgrade!

I'm all most done with my v3 as well, maybe next year I'll make the v4.

@@zosojay024 If you do, you can use your LR3 to cut parts for your LR4, namely strut plates and aluminum XZ plates. I used my full sheet capable LR3 to cut those things for my LR4 test machine! I posted a video showing the aluminum plates being cut using trochoidal milling. LR3 is a very capable machine!

Same same - finishing the final prints while watching this!

@@greenmoondog woo hoo!

Yep! Can't be distracted by anything when doing that or you're feeding your vac tip to the LR CNC beast!

A couple of the other beta testers have built full size, and they are getting fantastic results. I will be eventually upgrading my full size LR3 to LR4. My full size LR3 with 25.4 mm (outside diameter) stainless steel tubes can already mill 1/4" aluminum in a single pass at a pretty quick clip, and this LR4 has bigger 29.5 mm (outside diameter) EMT galvanized steel tubes, and it is substantially more rigid. I have no doubts this thing will be a beast on both metal and hardwood.

Yep. The hardware, steppers, etc, are same as LR3. It's the beefier EMT tubes and beefier design that gives it extra kick.

Not yet, but it's in the works. Ryan's already been talking about doing test cuts in aluminum, and one of the other beta testers is planning, and suggesting to me, to cut hardwood. I've got some maple. I think I can get some aluminum scraps that are 1/4" thick.

I'm having trouble with melamine board on LR3. Really slow, rather rippled cuts and loses steps quite easily. About 4-5 hours for a simple 18mm full 4x8 sheet cabinet. The LR4 looks promissing, but I'm sceptic. Nema23 motors now?

Hmm. Maybe the bit is the dull or the feeds and speeds are not correct? It definitely sounds like something is not right because you should get better performance than that. Are you using some type of an online reference for your feeds and speeds calculations? I purchased a Calculator tool, but there are free spreadsheet tables available. If a bit is dull it makes a huge problem.

Also, another thing to check is whether or not all of your grub screws are tight. Did you put thread locker on all your grub screws? The problem you’re describing is pretty common with loose grub screws.

@@design8studio What are the grub screws?

I hear you! We're moving along as best we can, but the real driving force is Ryan. He's a CNC designing machine!

I'll say. I replied to someone else that "my sense is I'm not even close to this thing's rigidity limits. I think I could bump the stepover percent up, and/or the feed rate up, and have literally no issues. I have to uncover some more MDF scraps for more testing once I get the RC2 version built!"

So, I did not alter the acceleration settings from how Ryan had them in the stock config on the 2nd Jackpot I bought new for this. It's at 200 mm/sec2. Also, Ryan ships 24v power supplies now (I think by default) on LowRider kits. Anyhow, I bought another LR3 hardware kit just for this build, and got the 24v supply.

Will do! LOL

You bet. And my sense is I'm not even close to this thing's rigidity limits. I think I could bump the stepover percent up, and/or the feed rate up, and have literally no issues. I have to uncover some more MDF scraps for more testing once I get the RC2 version built!

My camera works in both Mainsail and Fluidd. There is a place, in Mainsail, for instance, to add your camera's details. I am not sure what you mean about switching port number.

In Mainsail, go to settings, then Webcam. There you input your camera's details. If you need help on that, let me know or check out the details on the Github and/or the discussion area of the Github. It's also been answered in discussion areas on Reddit.

Keep us updated over on the forum whenever you do get your build going!

As fast as this is, some others are getting LowRider v4 cuts substantially faster than this. I have some 1-flute bits on order, and when I get my feeds and speeds dialed in, I may get video of cutting even faster, and if so I will post it. This machine is a beast.

Yes it is. And indications are that I can get even faster cuts out of it. Just need to get the feeds and speeds more dialed in. Ryan and others in the beta test group have gotten cuts substantially faster than this. My goal is not to always be doing speed cuts, but pushing it is how we're testing its rigidity and capability.

can the xz plates be cut out or do they need to be printed

The LowRider v4 can get a slightly larger cuttable area than a LowRider v3 on the same table. Ryan accomplished this by designing it with a ruthless efficiency in its form. If you already had a full sheet LowRider v3, you should be able to keep that area, and even slightly gain. The gantry is an easier build at least two ways. Ryan realized the front strut and bottom strut were doing all the strut load work, and the back strut was not needed. So there is no back strut. This leaves the gantry open on the back, which is easier access for assembly and wiring. Also, he added nut capture slots in the printed braces for all the screw holes that hold the 2 struts on. Somewhat related: I've designed printed cosmetic back covers that can both flip upwards to access the inside of the gantry, yet make it look sharp while closed (flipped down), or they can also easily be snapped out for access, and reinstalled. Those back covers are not officially part of the LR4 stock parts, and not public yet, but imagine they will be made available in due time.

@@design8studio Cool sounds like it will be worth it for me to upgrade. My gantry had sagged in the middle, I had problems with the SKR PRO board so I was waiting to straighten that out before I took it apart and rewired everything and put on the struts. Now it's about 1 mm or less lower in the middle, it was about 5mm down. I can throw a sheet of mdf on there and use a surfacing bit , but I want this more accurate. Do the XZ plates need to be printed or can they be cut on the cnc. They look wider.

@@billnoname8093 The XZ plates can be printed - and the idea is the machine could then be used to cut aluminum replacements for the printed ones. If you already have a LowRider v3, you can cut aluminum ones using it. I did, using full depth (1/4" depth of cut) and trochoidal milling - on full-sheet capable LowRider v3.

@@design8studio I meant the YZ plates, they look different and bigger, or wider on the video. I always confuse those 2 parts, by name. I do have the lr3 and plan on changing boards so I will just wait until the lr4 comes out and upgrade it all at once.

I had the same issue. Turns out it's a Klipper thing, that the Z_offset only gets referenced the *next time* you run a bed leveling (if I remember right). Once you set it, run bed leveling one more time, and then it "takes" - worked for me once I found that out.

I posted a reply with the same answer about 3 weeks ago, when it was fresher in my memory, so I think I told you correctly. See that earlier reply here: www.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/comments/1bmfyxs/comment/lfgjqkp/?context=3

@@design8studio thx, I didn't know, now by letting make new bed mesh I solve my problem! Thx!

It's a beast of a machine!

The hardware for v3 is basically the same as v4 except for slight differences in screws, and bigger EMT tubes and different XZ plates. You could use the V3 as is, or use it to cut strut plates etc and turn it into a v4

@design8studio yeah I saw that on the forum.I think I'm just going to stick with the V3, for now at least. Not sure I want to commit to reprinting and rebuilding the whole thing. Not sure if it's worth it. I will be adding the pendant soon

@@design8studio or may I should rephrase that and ask if it's worth the time, effort, and money to upgrade in your opinion?

@@jacobjeurissen1823 It's a very worthy upgrade in rigidity and capability. But the v3 is quite capable - can mill 1/4" aluminum in single pass cuts with a sharp bit especially when using trochoidal milling. For anyone who just finished building a v3, I can understand wanting to get some good use out of it before you consider upgrading. Whether or not you do so now or much later, either way you would be pleased with the v4.

I'm almost finished with my V3 too. I think there will be a lot of fomo among us. But I'll stay with v3 for time being and maybe update at some point when I'm more comfortable with the whole thing.

@@kevinpimentelRC yes 12mm DOC! And I’m not close to the limit of the frame’s rigidity. I’ll get faster cuts than this before I’m done testing!

@@EricFranklin-d2v Thanks! I will get even faster cuts when I get feeds and speeds more dialed in, and get more 1-flute bits in.

No set date yet. Ryan has said on the beta discussion area that he thinks we’re close. But no way to get a date right now.

Various efforts have been made. This Reddit post is by someone doing one of the efforts, and one of the earliest response links to another effort. Various points of discussion follow. www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/1epabhj/you_can_finally_resume_a_print_after_the_power/

I have not, but some folks have. I print PLA almost exclusively, and some PETG and a little bit of TPU.

@design8studio some news articles are saying pla isn't good for health too, maybe it's good to have one.

@@Gabs_Labs I will look into that.