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captaindynamo78
Приєднався 18 гру 2006
1973 Maverick - 13 second run
Click here to skip my rambling and just watch the car - 02:06
After changing the rear tires, adding traction bars, and resolving the early 2-3 shift issue, I make another test run. Still using the 3:00:1 open differential.
After changing the rear tires, adding traction bars, and resolving the early 2-3 shift issue, I make another test run. Still using the 3:00:1 open differential.
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Відео
Traction limited run with a drag timer.
Переглядів 4076 місяців тому
Trying to get a baseline 1/4 mile time with a Dragy, but limited on traction. Still running the 3.00:1 open differential with old tires, so I pedaled lightly to get it moving. Mostly wanted to see what the MPH would be. Also fighting an issue with the shift kit. When manually shifted it's supposed to hold the gear until commanded. Unfortunately it still forces the 2-3 shift at 5000 like a stock...
351w Maverick - Unintentional 70 MPH One Wheel Burnout
Переглядів 413Рік тому
I made some alignment corrections and took it out to see how it drove. It's much better now. Feels stable at highway speeds. Traction is obviously an issue since it still has the original 3.00 open differential. The right rear tire doesn't hook until the top of 2nd.
Ford Maverick - 351w Shakedown Run
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 роки тому
First real drive in the Maverick since I started bringing it back to life. Took it around the block and down the street a few times to get the brake and alignment issues figured out. Once that was sorted I figured it was time for a real drive, so I went a few miles out of town. Ran ok for not having any tuning done yet. Also stayed around 175 degrees in the 95 degree outside tempurature, so I'm...
Maverick 351w startup - some success and some fail
Переглядів 9092 роки тому
I replaced all the core/freeze plugs in the block, but forgot about the ones in the head. Honestly didn't even think about it since I've only ever had issues with plugs in the block. While breaking in the cam on my 351w, one of the core plugs in the head developed a pinhole leak. It also happened in a difficult to reach location, so the engine had to come back out.
Ford Maverick - Alternator Test
Переглядів 2502 роки тому
Using a power drill to test the alternator before the first start.
Ford Maverick - New floor panels
Переглядів 1,9 тис.3 роки тому
Patching the rusty floor back together using some patch panels for a mid 60's Mustang.
Honda cb175 startup
Переглядів 1413 роки тому
Not the first start, but pretty close. Like just about any bike that sits for a long time, it needs a tune up. Carbs need cleaned and the ignition sounded like it didn't want to advance. Mechanically it sounds great. Making all the right noises and none of the wrong ones.
1963 Chevy II
Переглядів 253 роки тому
Short ride in a former 1/8 mile drag car. Posting this again to correct the video orientation change done by UA-cam recently. 350 th400 9 inch, 4.11, 35 spline, spool Hurst Autostick III shifter
Ford Maverick - Heater box removal
Переглядів 2,1 тис.4 роки тому
With the front end back together I've got it back on all 4 wheels. In this video I'm removing the heater box and cleaning up under the dashboard to prepare for welding in new floor panels.
Lincoln Weld-pak 100 - MIG conversion
Переглядів 51 тис.4 роки тому
Upgrading my Lincoln welder from flux core wire to MIG. The regulator and gas solenoid valve were originally purchased along with the welder when new. Both are still available individually or as a kit. I wanted to provide better demonstration welds, but my wire reel was binding. It welds pretty nice when the wire is feeding properly.
Ford Maverick - Front end test fit and rough alignment
Переглядів 2674 роки тому
Test fitting new parts to make sure alignment can be achieved before adding reinforcement to the shock tower cutouts.
Ford Maverick - front suspension removal
Переглядів 2,2 тис.4 роки тому
Removing the old front suspension parts.
Shock tower issues
Переглядів 5354 роки тому
Ford Maverick shock towers I butchered these up many years ago trying to make a set of headers fit, only to find the headers still didn't fit. Engine access was much easier though. I added bracing to the tower itself, but overlooked the fact that the a-arm bolted to the lower part that I left without any reinforcement. Since I have new suspension parts on the way I'll add some extra support and...
Leaving Arrowhead Stadium Power Tour 2017
Переглядів 477 років тому
Leaving Arrowhead Stadium Power Tour 2017
Aristocraft Funliner on Clinton Lake
Переглядів 1,6 тис.13 років тому
Aristocraft Funliner on Clinton Lake
1963 Aristocraft Funliner test run
Переглядів 2,5 тис.13 років тому
1963 Aristocraft Funliner test run
Do you happen to know what headers you are running I’m in the process in doing this swap and I’m having a hard time finding headers thanks
I'm using an older set of Hedman 88300 headers. They don't just bolt in with a 351 though. Had to heat and hammer it in a few places to get the engine to set all the way down on the mounts. Then the right side collector still didn't line up with the crossmember very well. Had to hack and re-weld some tubing to get around that.
this is great ...where did you buy the gas selenoid? please tell so I can convert my welder machine ...thanks for sharing your aknowledge
Thanks for the instructional video. what is the part # for the gas solenoid?
Am eroare la un bester190c f01daca ma poti ajuta
Cigarettes on the line....the union allowed everything...
Can you weld 14 gauge aluminum with the 100 weld pak? I want to try it if anyone has had any success with this.
Bought same welder around 1997 and converted to mig. Welder still going strong!
Why the conversion if this model was designed for gas
I always wondered if I could convert my weld pak 100 welder to MiG! I’m glad to see it is, flux core welding isn’t quite beneficial for the welding I do, which is mostly exhaust/ some body work. Gonna start looking at conversion kits now
BUY THE PARTS not the kits unless someone started selling cheap ones. The official kit price is a ripoff. It's just ordinary hardware including the gas solenoid. For strength I welded a short nipple to the welder case (I have other welders) but you can mount your plumbing and valve anywhere you care to.
@@Comm0ut Tep I robbed the parts off an olg mig I had that didnt work, and have already done the conversion on my welder, I made a video on it too, very simple conversion
Seems that a MIG conversion should start with swapping the (+) and (-) leads inside the machine. Also some better camera work on the close ups of the wire side of the welder. I was really hoping to get an A-Z starting with a flux-core welder.
Quick tip that blue canister will light you up if it's charged
love this. I'm wanting to do the same swap on my maverick but with a newer roller motor from the f150's
didn't show how to remove springs
I wish u had gotten some clips of the drive wheel setting adjustment. It's the only thing I'm worried I won't be able to get done.
Drivewheel or roller just needs a little tension by screwing wing nut down. If you're talking about the wire spool tension, there is an allenhead setscrew inside the wire spool spindle that you need to turn in or out that the plastic spool nut tightens against to adjust tension on the wire spool. Too tight will cause feed problems, too loose will cause a mess with the wire unraveling off spool.
Is the replacement gun available on Amazon ?
yea I bought a toeboard and the main driver floor a few years ago made for the car, but it was some unknown shop and that was the only one I THINK. Mine had far more rot and still not finished due to the location of it. the toeboard, came with a bend in it, but the main pan did not come with a curve so I had to beat one in. Came out pretty good! I have a gap now from where there's no metal under the seat bracket and I do not know HOW I am going to do that. You shouldn't have used 16 gauge by the way. Whatever the floor originally was, that's what you need to replace it with the best you can. I'm glad you used the weld thru primer. I noticed your ebrake cable missing. Did you take it out? And, have you put one back in? I have heard that's the hardest thing to replace.
There's a torque box behind the toe board, so the heavier gauge panel is actually a benefit. Reinforcing the subframe components on a vehicle with unibody construction is almost always a welcomed improvement. With that said, if you're going for an accurate restoration, then yes it might make sense to use the same gauage and try to get the panel close to the original.
How did everything turn out for you? Did cleaning the shaft do it for you or did you have to get new springs as well? I have the same issue. But not sure what you mean by "Flying carb". Thanks!!
The "flying carbs" just meant that it kept backfiring hard enough to knock the carbs off of the rubber manifold tubes. I realized later that I actually had more issues than just sticky timing advance. I can't remember which springs I ended up using, but I definitely did clean and lube the timing shaft as well as all the other usual tuning steps (timing chain, point gap, ignition timing, etc) and it ran really well after that.
I'm glad I seen this I'm going to go look at the same welder this afternoon a guy has a brand new one for 250 and if I can convert it over to gas it will be cheaper then buying the 140 now I have to price the parts to convert it. Thanks.
Perfectos 🤙
Have you ever heard of anyone converting this model to a spool gun? Would love to do that(for aluminum). I have that same model.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. I've had this exact welder on my shelf for over a decade after my brother in law moved back to Hong Kong. Never really knew I could upgrade it to MIG! Curious...for some basic ornamental welding would this little machine be sufficient? It looks like it could be.
They're quite decent and common in auto body shops. Conversion is so inexpensive you might as well go for it. DO NOT buy the absurdly overpriced Lincoln kit. Do watch all related videos.
hi, nice car, I have a 72 Maverick grabber and the alternator dash light is not working, how is the wiring of that light? thank you, and regards from Chile.
The alternator light wire is green with a red stripe, and runs from the voltage regulator connector (often labeled as pin "I" on the regulator) directly to the ALT light. If the ALT light doesn't come on when the alternator is stopped (and the ignition is on) it's either a burned indicator bulb or that wire. Both can be easily checked after removing the gauge cluster. There's a screw on top of each guage tunnel, and once they're remove the cluster will tilt outward, allowing access to the back of it. From there you should be able to remove the bulb and inspect it, and also check for voltage at the lightbulb socket when the light should be on. There also may be a disconnect on that wire near the voltage regulator that may have come undone. Mine has that, but I'm not sure if all years/submodels have that.
Quick question I'm building a 75 Mercury Comet with the same setup how about the new solenoid starter carburetor ignition coil spark plugs and wires put fresh and multiple ground and body wires but it's still sucking so much voltage I cannot figure out what's going on I mean it's literally burning The Wire from the solenoid to battery but the starter wire is fine
Lincoln manuals with schematics can be downloaded from their website and include schematics. Example: www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/servicenavigator-public/lincoln3/imt460.pdf Conversion kit parts list (no need to buy from Lincoln but it shows the components well): images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/d8/d8bcb345-a5eb-43f1-8992-93d77cb86709.pdf The expensive conversion kit is not necessary as solenoid valves and fittings are cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/301113411599 (not mine but I ordered one) is representative. Western 1/4 NPT, AW-15A adapts 1/4" NPT valves to standard external gas hoses. See various conversion videos and read posts on the Weldingweb forums (great community and noob-friendly) as many posters converted theirs. The principle can work with other FCAW machines if they've switched line voltage accessible. Note the Lincoln gun is a common Lincoln that's Tweco compatible. These little machines are much better made than most offshore disposables and should serve well for many years. I have many welders (they follow me home) but the little 100 is quite handy which is why I'm converting it to gas and stepping down to .025" wire for sheet metal work. If you ever replace the liner the gun used is a Magnum 100 and a Teflon liner feeds small wires nicely. NOOB NOTE: Many small wire welders are sold used because their gun liner is rusty or kinked causing wire to birdnest. Liners are cheap so I don't turn down used machines that birdnest wire.
This is a great video and your info just amazing ! Thank you so much for the great info !
Would be nice to see a single plug weld up close.
Where did you buy your pans? Are they the short or long?
They're short pans. Under and behind the seat didn't need much work. Pretty sure I got them through eBay, but I don't remember who the seller was. They were bought a few years before I used them, so it's been a while.
Where did you find the conversion
How do you take out the drive grooved ? You showed every thing except taking out the drive groove.I`m having problem taking out mine.
🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What was your settings on the welder on your last bead?
Pretty sure I had it in on C for the power, unknown for the wire speed. I was mostly focused on getting it to feed correctly since I was having a little trouble with that. The settings chart recommends D-7 for 14ga. That metal was slightly thicker, but not quite 12ga. D-7 would be a good starting point, adjusting wire speed as needed.
Did you use that Lincoln weld pak 100 with gas for this welding?
Yeah, that's what I was using.
on mine it says to change the liner for the smaller wire. I have the smaller liner but was hoping you'd show how to do that. Also turning the spool for the wire feeder around, you didn't show that either. Those are the main changes for flux to mig.
The original liner works fine with the .025/.023 solid wire. It also makes it easier to quickly throw a spool of flux core back in if needed. The liner that comes with the MIG kit is too small for the .035 flux wire.
You don't have to change the liner, just the tip. I prefer the smaller Teflon liner though but if your stock liner feeds smoothly there's no reason to disturb it. Save the new liner for when the old one gets kinked or corroded (which it might not). I DO NOT SWAP LINERS WITHOUT REASON. That's because some old liners can stick after partial removal. When that happens and they won't pull out the MIG gun (well, the cable which is the main component) is done. Fortunately small MIG guns for these machines are inexpensive.
Good job man! Just subbed and can't wait to see the rest of the progress on it! Keep up the hard work! 👍
Awesome, Thank you!
Thinking about potentially doing this myself when I buy a Maverick soon, so I appreciate the content. Also, funny about the smokes, "no one'll ever find this, who cares!"
Cool, I hope it helps. I think the biggest challenge I ran into was actually just getting started on it. Once I dove in, it wasn't so bad. Hope you can find a Maverick soon, and good luck with the project!
Jackashes don't sell the solenoid with the aluminum kit.
Saludosde ecuador tengo una maquina igual que nunca la pude probar no tiene el pace de gas plis👍
Great video nice
I didn't get a good look at the motorcycle, but I'm guessing it's a Yamaha XS650. Nice ride.
Thanks, it is. 1972.
@@captaindynamo78 I had a red and white 72' XS2. My first larger cc machine. The motor was great, but the brakes were not.
By chance u have the link or i can be any solenoid?
Sorry, I don't have a link.
Approximate cost of doing the conversion? Considering doing the conversion on mine.
The expensive part for me was the bottle purchase. The new full bottle in the video was around $270-$300. A smaller bottle would have been cheaper, but the larger bottles don't cost much more to refill. Ends up being cheaper in the long run if you expect to use it a lot. Haven't refilled it yet but was told it would be around $35 for a refill. If intended for occasional use, a smaller bottle may be the way to go. I've seen the hardware kit vary quite a bit in price depending on where you look. They're usually somewhere between $175-$300 and they come with everything you need. Solenoid, regulator, hoses, fittings, etc.
@@captaindynamo78 thanks.
Great video I'm doing the same to my Lincoln 100 too. What connection did you use H1 or H2? If you could help would be appreciated.
Both H1 and H2 tabs are used. The correct gas solenoid will have two wires, one for each tab. When the trigger is pulled those pins apply 120V AC to the solenoid. There is no polarity since it's alternating current. As long as both are hooked up it'll work.
if you havent yet, go on facebook and look up maverick comet restorations. joe makes floor pans and everything else you need. specific to the car
Thank you for showing this. Just what I needed.
Thank you for sharing this. You rock brother!
Great video. thx
I have the same machine, I am going to convert it. Thank you
Jap engines rarely sound nice with straight pipes.. straight through mufflers get rid of that tinny sound. Nice bike though, thinking about getting one from a coworker real cheap and hack it up into an indonesian chop. Now i know i wont go with straight pipes, thanks guys! 👍
How fast did this push the Funliner?
The bars are clubmans. I originally bought them for my XS650, but we tried them on the Virago. Cables were a little long, but it worked pretty well. It's an easy fit. Just bolt them on and go.
what kind of handlebars do you have on there? was it much work to install them?