Відео

Bon graveille.

Why you did not use a spacer between the bearings?

Why not just use one locknut and bent it so it’s not going anywhere?

absolute best video, straight to the point, got on with it and covered what I needed, much appreciated.

Why was it leaking? You didnt explain that part

What year is your rover?

Possibly worth pointing out that as you do up the rocker shaft bolts part of the resistance is the fact that you are compressing, opening some of the valves.

Hello, I like this upgrade from the fuel tank protection plate / bracket. Because it is screwed to the chassis holders from below. Where do you get this protective plate?

Thanks! I'm about to change my filter housing, following this video it seems easy enough.

Привет Крис скажи у меня дефендер 90 2009 года , там такой же рабочий цилиндр? Спасибо

Can you tell me please where the nuts and bolts are located that secure the transfer box to the gearbox ? I can see four obvious ones that are described in the workshop manual but there are other bolts underneath facing towards the gearbox . Which of these if any need to be undone ?

The first really helpful video i seen on the subject, i struggled for hours as i did not place the seal correctly, and they didn'nt explain at all how to place the seal on other video.

Where did you get the house img from thanks

Thanks - all very clear!

There are two bolts at the top of the bell housing. As you say, the driver's side bolt is a pig to find, let alone to release. (Unlike earler models, my Td5 appears to have only 6 bolts at the bottom)

Thank you for such a great video tutorial. I originally used it a few years ago when I removed all the injectors on my Discovery 2 TD5 for renovation and then refitted them. I now need to replace one of them. This is still by far the best and most comprehensive tutorial on UA-cam. Superb ! Thanks again

Is this the same as the Discovery 2 TD5? Also is the 10p and 15p the same? I’m having an issue with my discovery and thinking this may sort it, I have ordered a 1 way valve for one of the pipes but now brass fitting, I’ve been told the 10p is different

What size are the brass washers?

Szkoda ze nie odpowiadasz nam na pytania

Z jakiej jesteś miejscowości

R380 ciężka robota

Podoba mi się twoja robota

How long time did it take to remove the gearbox and replace it?

Anti roll bar is normally captive nut aswell and expect alot more rust and mud if your going to attempt this job

Superbe tutoriel, ça vas m'aider à faire le mien!!👍👍

Cheers really helpful bud

Great job my friend

Old land rovers. Use your brains.

Don’t need special tools. Man. Just imagination.

Thank you !

Best example

What did you do about the oil cooler pipes running under the gearbox?

In hindsight I think removing the engine would be an easier and more comfortable option over removing the gearbox and laying underneath

I think it would have been a good idea to have renewed the line as well, you do not want to do this too many times, and the hose looks a bit perished. Chris B.

I totally agree with you about the folly of cheap aftermarket parts! I have just changed the alternator on my TD5 and had to buy the oil feed pipe to the vacuum pump, not only was if bent in the wrong angle, but the threaded gland would not screw into the cylinder head, I had to recut the thread on the pipe gland, and that was on a small feed pipe that cost £130! (now unavailable from Land Rover), so check all parts with originals before trying to fit. There are springs to be fitted on the clutch pedal, they make the pedal effort much lighter, rather than opting for a servo system. Chris B

Hiya have you ever had problems with the oil filler cap O ring letting oil past, and is it a standard O ring, and what's the black sealer you use. Cheers, good video thanks.

Hi, are you sure you can just blow in one side of the white plastic part?

thanks !!!is very clear

no need to use instant gasket on the mating surface of the seal?

How the heckins did you replace that without the injector loom trying to force its way out??

Update: Actually I didn´t got it managed to wear the metal-ring on the pump just working alone. Again, I watched your video and realized, that for the video you too didn´t got it managed, as the ring flips up again the moment when you lift up the tool. So what is your real experience ? Did you ask a friend to come over to help, like me...?!

Would lube seal first ,plus a wet and dry sand paper to clean and polish crank,plus a little sealant on housing of the seal

Great video, but nevertheless I intend to cut out a service-hatch, rather than to take out the complete fuel-tank with bumpers etc. The tool to screw the holding-ring of the pump is interesting. Where did you got such a tool or is it DIY ?

Well done you 👏 good video thanks been a great help 👍 regards from Spain 🇪🇸

I have the same question about clutch height - did you ever get it sorted? Thanks

Great video, thanks!

I feel for you, been there with a combination of desperation & doubt. Great honest information us DIY home mechanics appreciate having had similar experiences going round in circles.

Like your videos, I am at the beginning of this journey so nice to lear & prepare in advance. Where did you obtain the clamshell LR Tool puller for removing the collar?

thanks, just completed the rear main seal today. much appreciated

Just done mine and there was an inspection cover in the back so I didnt have to remove the tank.