Відео

Here's the one I bought: www.ebay.com/itm/364267424843?_skw=lr4+air+compressor&itmmeta=01JJN4FW189ECMXAZKFVTHD3HV&hash=item54d007cc4b:g:-A8AAOSwU9ZmMxBz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlqqCZprY2TnsvPfgXckbTZqOFOQDTP7J3X94H%2BUEU0GQf5rcn%2FhX%2BsAqjaQBv17NFWLkD9PNuYGX8YA40LWZSYq9SZzxzNksKjHmS3cDQt1lUWNRtwJXYaYbfKfDadQDd8icfKQ6ausecr%2FVmRBngA7U9wfHEnxowYVVtf0C3Fpm0hbHWoF5eY9R0YoIRI%2F62OOhTmEV6QEFV%2Fl76n1%2F4zTbMjfKf97N3Ed%2BtAuRi2%2FqIql5HFtDt4ZOjcmAah6H0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUObAv6SVZQ But, be aware that your LR4 may have the other AMK style compressor, so it's worth checking first before you buy one.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm just happy to help others keep their Land Rovers on the road without getting killed by dealership service costs!

Haha! Hey, turning wrenches is not a bad workout! The truck does not need to be supported on jack stands when replacing the compressor. You are correct, the front and rear valve blocks keep the air in the air bags at all four corners, and the reservoir valve keeps the air in the reservoir. I like to put a jack stand under it regardless though, just in case my front or rear valve block has a slow leak I wasn't aware of.

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks - knocking out this project this week.

It's somewhat area/region dependent but I know my local Land Rover dealer charges about $180/hour, and I'd estimate around 4-5 hours for the job, so somewhere in the $800-1,000 range. You may have a good local independent shop that would likely charge a lot less though!

I do not have TV's in the back of my LR4, but I installed a similar system in my l405 Range Rover that DOES have rear seat entertainment and it still functions just as it did before, using the OEM menu interface. That's the nice thing with these systems, with the touch of a button you are back to the OEM interface and functionality.

Sure thing, here's the exact unit I purchased: www.ebay.com/itm/386726878237 The volume control works from the steering wheel, but you cannot skip songs, etc. You need to remove the jumper on the little connector labeled "steering wheel" just FYI.

Yeah, when I mention that the acoustic covers can be tricky to remove, I say that just as a word of warning. Sorry I did not show the removal. Unfortunately there's no particular method or tips I can give to help someone remove them. Know that nothing holds them in place except a couple ball and socket dock points, but they are tricky to remove because it's pretty tight in there and they are oddly shaped. Nothing special about pulling them out and putting them back on, but it can be a pain!

Glad the video was helpful for you! It's tight getting to the bolts for the rear crossover pipe but removing that clamshell plastic around the wire harness really helps. Good luck!

Nice work man, the timing chain job is quite the chore! I'm with you, I want to keep my LR4 on the road forever as they just don't make anything like it anymore. Regarding the home button, yes, just as you described when you press the home button it takes you back out of the interface/carplay mode to the OEM home screen. Here's the exact unit I purchased: www.ebay.com/itm/386726878237

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks for the link! Just bought it. Yeah, was kind of forced to do the chain guide swap as the dealer wanted the rig's weight in gold to do it, and the other European specialty shops refused to use customer-supplied parts (that I had been gathering for months). The only complication was leaking valve covers post-repair. Tried saving money and bought the 'Mitzone' covers from Amazon. Had to go back later and replace them with OEM to fix the leaks. Lesson learned - everything else was OEM. Thanks again!

@ It’s pretty straightforward but let me know if you have any troubles with the install. I’d be curious which configuration of the dip switches works for you. FYI I needed to remove the jumper on the little “steering wheel” connector for my steering wheel volume control to work correctly with CarPlay.

The parts can be scary expensive and the diagnostic software (LaRA 6.0, Texa Supercar, DaVinci or similar) are pricey and hard to come by, but no doubt working on them is not unlike many other cars and you can save yourself a lot of money by finding parts crossovers from more mass produced vehicles when possible!

@ 100% Agree on the expensive aspect, but once you what you’re doing on cars it’s all just a matter removing things to get to another to switch it out and vise versa. Possibly need fluid evacuations and changes along the way. That’s the other thing that scares people. Fluid changes on them which is all because people never to learn specifications, what they mean, how to read them and then apply them to what you’re working on. The software is honestly the biggest hurdle and in my situation the only hurdle.

Sorry, I do not! I meant to make one when I did my conversion but ended up in a rush to get it done. It's a pretty straightforward process. You just need to buy the filler strip and updated fog light bezels from Powerful UK. The actual headlight swap is plug and play, but you'll need to make sure you buy the right headlights (if your LR4 has adaptive lighting, buy a new set that also has adaptive lighting). Once installed, if you have a GAP IID tool you can activate the DRL lights, otherwise you'll just have to manually switch them on (turn on the parking lights) to have the DRLs. Let me know if you have any other questions about it!

@@evandoeseverything174 Thank you brother and happy new year!! Great information, I had no idea it was plug and play and I just looked up the cost for a new headlights and it was almost 4K for one. I plan on buying a used set and I’ll confirm to make sure it has the same option as my current headlights.

@@Mamster3 Yup, that's exactly what I did, just waited for good deals on each headlight on eBay. You can save a lot of money buying them with broken lenses, and then get a set of new lenses and put them on yourself! I bought a spray paint can of the correct color from automotivetouchup.com for the filler strip.

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks for the advice brother!

Sure thing. I mistakenly said I bought it on Amazon, but I actually bought it on eBay (found it cheaper there). Here's the exact one I bought: www.ebay.com/itm/386726878237

If you've got all 10 bolts out and it's still not coming off, it may just be a bit stubborn and the gaskets could be sticking to the heads. May just need to pull harder. Make sure that the wiring harness at the rear is loose and not restricting the movement of the intake manifold.

@@romantkachuk168 Sound quality is excellent! You still maintain the OEM audio equalizer and balance adjustment too.

You want to keep the engine and a/c on while completing the recharge. Try placing the can in a large bowl of hot water to help increase the pressure to push the refrigerant into the system.

Is it ok to NOT replace the expansion valve? Manual says whole upper dash has to come out on my 2010 RR Sport which seems crazy

@@mascho22 Yes unless there is a problem with the expansion valve (pretty rare) there’s no need to replace it!

Thanks man! Yeah fortunately I haven't had any tailgate latch issues with my LR4. I have had a couple issues with wires breaking in the wiring loom for other systems and they have not been fun to track down and fix!

Excellent work! No doubt the desiccant has a limited life, nice to replace it before it causes problems in the rest of the system/air valve blocks.

@@carlthetruthwilliams9447 Glad you like my video! LR4’s are awesome vehicles if you treat them right and keep up with maintenance. Never want to get rid of mine!

@@mullner88 Thanks for watching! Hope the video helps you tackle the job with ease!

Thanks! I hope it was helpful for you.

Nope, nothing special. If you leave a door open while you jack it up and do the work the vehicle will not auto level the suspension which makes things easier.

I installed new chains, tensioners, chain guides and tensioner guides. I bought the timing parts kit from Atlantic British.

So you're saying if the vehicle is in standard height it does not drop?

Yes, exactly. You can either remove the coating or deal with the aesthetic of sticky and peeling buttons. They really don't feel too much different with the coating removed.

Did this work for you??

@ yea dealership replaced with no charge…even got to drive the new glc 300 amg for a day

I honestly never tried the rear blower, not sure if it was still functional when my front blower went dead.

Glad the video was helpful for you!

It should go in more or less straight back, push from the front of the engine toward the back. Once you've got the pump flush with the block you know it's in the right position and the rear o-rings are seated properly. No tricks to it.

Thanks for this information. All of the Jaguar/Land Rover buttons are the same, but your absolutely right that if one is going to attempt this on another make or style of button, proceed with caution and try the alcohol in an inconspicuous area first.

static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10241531-0001.pdf

Hard to say. Does the clicking sound get faster as you increase the blower speed? If not, it's probably a blend door actuator that has malfunctioned and NOT the blower motor or final stage resistor.

@@evandoeseverything174 no it goes off after about 10 seconds and stops clicking, it sounds like a small box with wires going into it drivers side footwell behind the panel by the footrest you take off for the resistor

@@evandoeseverything174 stands a chance tbh, have you changed one, is it just behind the panel, mines 2007 tdv8 3.6

@@Scotty-UK I have not. You may need to remove the HVAC assembly within the dash to access the blend doors for repair. If you find out please let me know!

Absolutely. It's best practice to replace them but I've never had any issues reusing them. Don't sweat it!

Glad you've found the video and hope it helps you do the job. Yes, I've done the timing chains, please check out my video on the complete process!

Every 30k miles is a typical replacement interval, but I think more like 100k miles is sufficient. The iridium tipped spark plugs in the Land Rover 3.0 and 5.0 are very robust and can last a long time!