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@EricAtkinsonMusic yeah all the 3.8 transmissions. But not all GM v6s, the blazer has a 30 spline. I'd just pick a 30 spline v8 4l60e. I accidently put a 30 spline on my 27 spline input shaft and it ate the thing up, I had to replace the 27 spline stator with a 30 spline and buy a 30 spline torque converter for it. I'd do some reading into it. If your going to re use the v6 transmission. It's really confusing to say the least. I'm just putting my transmission back in my car and hoping everything goes well. I'll update a video when the car is driving. It starts and runs, sounds nice just got to get it to move.

@@thehellbird8946 thanks for the reply man .. did you have any issues with those plugs on the passenger fender ..I have a LS1 stand alone harness do I just splice them into that harness and match them to the wires coming out my pcm ?

@EricAtkinsonMusic everything was plug and play on my end. When I was building it I bought a used stock LS1 f body harness and a 5.3 ECU.

@@thehellbird8946 I have the 411 ecu LS1 and I’ve made my harness an LS1 I went through and check every wire an made sure they all were right .. seems to check out lol .. but I’ve been worried about having the fender plugs right .. I have to get a Lengenfelter to switch my signal from 58x to the old 24x reluctor wheel signal .. man I’m so close to having something running me and my kids all helped here and there and helped me build ..definitely going to be special.. just need to figure out this tranny .. I followed you and got the right bellhousing and the spacer .. my v6 tranny is pretty snappy and stout i wanted to put against that 5.3 till I can buy a T56 man ..

@@thehellbird8946 did that 27 spline work man .. I’m thinking about going with a 5 speed or 6 speed

Yes. If your using long tube headers for the F body it's gonna be some modification. I have Speed Engeneering LTHs and true dual exhaust, I paid 1400 for the entire set up. I'm using Spohn raised K member mounts and one of the driver side tube's on the header sit right on the lower steering shaft, and you can't turn your steering wheel, you don't want it touching because you'll wreck if you try to Drive it. I had to mark the spot on the header with a red marker to see where It was touching and I had to whack it with a ball peen hammer to dent it in a good bit, it was still touching so I had to grind my steering shaft down a bit. Now it doesn't touch. Of course it's probably not the safest idea but it should be okay lol but yes I'd probably go with short tube headers. I'd still look into forums on if the short tube's strike or not but I don't think they do. I do wish the best of luck to you! 👍

You will have to buy the harness from a LS1 Fbody. If your changing the drive set up to Drive by cable rather than drive by wire You will have to buy the computer on ebay for whatever liter LS your dropping in it, you want one with Vats off. I got a 5.3 computer listed for a mini van on ebay for $130 I believe it was, if the seller reprograms them message them upon buying tell them the liter and specs of your car, speedo top speed, tire size, transmission and year of the car. But as I was saying if you switch it to Drive by cable. DBC computers are blue and green. The trans am uses blue and red for drive by wire. So all you have to do is buy the blue and green plastic pieces for the harness, they pop off and are interchangeable. Cause you can't use the red and blue colors on the green and blue. The guy who sent me the ecu sent me the plastic pieces cause I told him what I was doing. So that's a important thing to know if your converting your throttle set up. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I wish the best of luck to you and your build. I've been planning on getting back to making more content but I had to drop the transmission because I accidently put a 30 spline v8 torque converter on the v6 trans which has the 27 spline stator. If you buy a v8 torque converter make sure it's 27 splines and not 30 otherwise you will be dropping the transmission back out because it's making a loud woooo noise when you hit the throttle in park. if you go with a v6 torque converter your gonna have to use that spacer I showed in the video.

@@thehellbird8946 hell yea thanks a lot for the info Mann

98-02 mounts?

@marteezjackson7545 yes. I used spohn raised mounts for the 98-02

You wanna make sure the K member is from a LS. Cause the holes in the frame are different as well. So it's gotta be a k member from a LS 98-02

I bought it used on Ebay. Alot of my parts were from Ebay. You can find em a dime a dozen on there. I think I spent like 75 bucks for it. It's been awhile. Lol good luck with your build man. If you have any questions I'll be glad to try to help.

@@thehellbird8946 ok thank you man. And I sure will. This is my first time doing a engine swap so it’s going to be a big learning process for me to.

When it comes to the LM7 there's nothing reusable, youl need all LS1 Fbody engine accessories Including the crank pully.

Ebay. Alot of my parts came from Ebay including my k member, intake, throttle body, LS1 accessories, speed cluster,

@@thehellbird8946 thanks for the info man

It's been so long I don't know If I could find the exact seller. But they are called Speed engineering long tube headers for LS1 Fbody. The only trouble you will have with these is the lower steering shaft clearance. One of the header tubes on the driver side sits on it. And that's when with raised Spohn motor mounts.

I've done a bit of change since this video. I did accidently put a 30 spline torque converter on the V6 transmission which has a 27 spline stator. Now I have to replace the torque. So be sure to get a 27 spline torque converter if using the v6 4l60e.

I don't unfortunately it's been a few years. I used Spohn mounts I bought them on ebay.

Yes coming soon, I was planning to make one. We had it finished, I was creating a start up video And we had a failure in the transmission pump. So we almost have the trans out to replace the pump. I'll be sure to make a update video soon.

I also installed a fiberglass ram air hood for it as well. Looks dope.

Yes, make sure you have the right number of splines on your torque converter and the input shaft or stator. The transmission we reused is making a woo noise from the trans after the 4th start up. We think the trans pump failed but then again I could had accidently put a 30 spline torque converter on a 27 spline stator. But now we are dropping the trans to check it out, either swap the pump out or replace the transmission. If you can get a 2 wheel drive 4l60e from a LS truck or vehicle that would be better because at least you know everything is copecetic. The only difference between the v6 and v8 4l60e is the number of splines on the stator. V6 has 27 and v8 has 30 splines. I read and looked up if you can use a LT1 transmission and it said the wiring is different so it has to be one from a LS. But if you can't find a good V8 one you could reuse it. But you will have to find a 27 spline 5.3 torque converter. The only thing I can't tell you is if the v6 transmission will hold up or not with more HP.

@@thehellbird8946 I have a 350 transmission that I am putting with the 5.3? Will tht be good?

Thanks. The car has a whole lot of different stuff now. When it gets warmer I'm planning to do another update video. Car has the ram air hood now. 3" true dual speed engineering exhaust. Car was done. We started it and sounded great, midway into revving it up the transmission made a woo noise when I'd rev it. Come to find out my dumb ass bought the wrong torque converter for my transmission. I accidently bought a 30 spline torque and these 3.8 4l60e transmissions have 27 splines on the stator. So make sure if your reusing a v6 transmission with the V8 bellhousing that you buy the right torque converter. The project was finished and now that set me back a bit. Oh and my Oil pressure sensor was puking down the back of the block so I had to take the intake off and replace the sensor. After we get it back together it will run perfectly. It sounded mean.

For a LS1 5.7

@johnnyrush5066 yes, you can buy larger ring and pinion gears for the 7.5 10 bolt. Mine still have the 3: 08 gears in it from the v6. But I bought Richmond 4: 10 gears for it, GM put 7.5 rear ends in all 4th Gen F bodies, V6 or V8. You can put a 8.5 in it or buy a aftermarket rear end. But everyone claims the 7.5s break. Honestly it's not breaking with stock set up imo. Now once you start running a bigger cam, supercharger, turbos, anything that's adding massive HP than it would possibly be a good idea, but I say, let it take it, until you break it.

Yes. The 150 mph v8 instrument panel needs to be one from a 98. The pins are specific for that year. 99-02 lights and guages won't work. If you have a 99-02 you can interchange any of those years. That's the main thing I can think of off the bat, If you have any questions I'll try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.

It will. That's what I did. But i think we crushed the tabs inside the transmission pump, don't use the spacer if you Have a v8 torque converter. I didn't think about it when putting it together and we tried to use the spacer when we didn't need to and it broke the tabs in my pump. But yes the 300 mm should have 30 spline and the V8 torque converter should have 30. Mark and Count the splines on the stator and the torque converter to be safe.

New from Ebay

@@thehellbird8946 got link by chance?

Northwest ohio?

If your using a V6 torque converter you will need the spacer. If your using a V8 torque converter you will not need the spacer. I just looked on eBay and found a cheap 5.3 torque converter with 27 splines. Not a 30. But if you get a 5.3 torque converter you wont need that little spacer. Good luck 👍

You can use any LS variant you want, 4.8 5.3. 6.0 or a 5.7 LS1 they are all the same block it's just the truck LS variants are usually iron Block, the car engines are aluminum. The 5.3 LM7 is a Iron block, you will just need all the Fbody LS1 accessories, LS1 harness and a 5.3 ECM. The LS1 harness has red and blue ecm plugs and the truck ECM uses blue and Green, Its been a little while, but I believe it's the red plastic fitting take that off and replace it with a green one. You may have to look into it. You won't have to worry about running a wire from your right side fuel injectors to your fuses, because the LT1 and LS1 cars use both INJ1 and INJ2. So those are ready to go for you. But yeah use any LS or LS variant you want.

@@thehellbird8946 oh I know what all is involved I was just commenting on what I was swapping from and what I was going to be putting in was either the lm7 I have or I might try to find an LS3 because I had a 2015 SS before the 93 I have

I had to use the original V6 green board because they are the same, and took the face of the Trans Am speedo and put it on. That way it says the cars original miles. However I might even experience this problem but speed sensors might be off, I could be wrong but a tune should fix that the speed calibration, I believe there is a speed sensor on the transmission, I don't know for sure if its different than the V8. But all my gauges works.

Yes, all the LS engines are the same, even the Truck variations, 4.8 5.3 5.7 and 6.0. they all will bolt right up to the LS1 k member.

I can't remember the brand but I got both relocator mounts on eBay. I used a side mount alternator relocator bracket .

Because there's not a lot of room, Unfortunately GM designed these cars for the engine to come out of the bottom like a hungry hippo, I've seen it done but its more of a headache cause of the angle it has to come out and go back in and youd hate to damage any lines or smash your oil pan, bottom is the way to do it with 4th gens. The picker has 1 strap with 2 hooks on the end and I hooked them on each side of the bay frame, the wall ledge right under the battery there. So when you lift it, it's evenly lifted. If you have 2 heavy duty wheel dollys you can get one under the oil pan and the other under your transmission, you can lift the body off the engine and it will roll right out, if not your going to have to wiggle it out side to side with another person. It isn't a over night swap, it took me $6,000 and a headache in never ending parts plus 3 years of build time. and im now just to the point where I can start it up. Mine still needs the fuel pump swapped out with the V8 one and I have to yet buy the dual exhaust for it which is like 500 lol

@@thehellbird8946 really enjoying these videos, also you are doing a great job answering questions. Keep up the good work man!

So the V6 cars have 2 lines, the V8 uses one, so you have to buy a c5 fuel filter/regulator, those 2 lines hook up to the filter, then one single line goes from the filter to your fuel rail. That 3rd line is for your charcoal canister that goes to the side of your intake by your throttle body.

@@thehellbird8946 thanks so much

Correct. I seen a pair only one time online, I honestly can't remember where, but I know they do exist. I just ordered the LS1 k member from eBay it was like 125+ tax and shipping so it was like 210 I believe. It was heavy the fed ex guy was mad lol

@THE HELLBIRD probably ends up being easier to just get the k member, in my case going turbo I think I will need the "turbo" k member regardless to run exhaust

I didn't have a issue with it hitting the mount, the header was sitting on top of my lower steering rack and I couldnt turn my steering wheel at all. I had to grind the lower steering shaft down where it was striking the header, then repainted the shaft so it didn't rust, then I also had to put a dent in the header where it sits. I'm using spohn k member mounts and they are a hair higher than the stock mounts and it was still striking. You don't have to mess with your upper steering shaft, leave that alone. Once you get the lower steering shaft bolt loose a large flat head will pop it up and out of the joint. Its probably the biggest obstacle with using long tube headers. I'd say if you want to avoid that just go with short tubes or the stock manifolds. I wish I could be more help.

As far as it goes for the steering rack, the steering shaft should tap right down into the steering rack with a hammer. But of course my lower steering shaft was already connected to the k member and steering rack, but I believe the shaft is the same as the V6 cause they are short and fat.

It's a real pain but I'm sure you will figure it out, read lots of forums on google. That's what I did. Not much for videos out there lol

@@thehellbird8946 thanks for the reply man, I appreciate it. Do you possibly have a picture of your steering setup? I could check on insta if you have posted it there or something previously

One thing to keep in mind. I have to cover in my next video. Do some research on the INJ1 and INJ2 in your fuse box. Those are your sets of Injectors and the 3.8 uses 1 Fuse for its set of injectors for both sides INJ1. the LS uses both INJ1- Right side Injectors. INJ2- Left side Injectors. Since INJ2 isnt hooked up you have to run a Wire from Your IGN fuse to your Left side Injectors. I forgot which color wire on the injector harness it wires up too. But that's important to remember or your car will just crank and crank.

Hell bird Would you be able to reuse the rear end bro

Just the steering rack, sway bar, control arms and the transmission. The bell housing is interchangeable, you will need The V8 harness the ecm for that engine, I got mine from eBay from a van, the vatts turned off. You need to get a c5 Corvette fuel filter to keep it a return set up, those v8s have returnless fuel system. Need the V8 k member. And for the engine it uses all LS1 Fbody engine accessories, truck accessories are too large.

Yeah I just did that today it helped some but the glass seems like it has a good gap between it And the sail panel. Adjusting these things are super tricky lol

Depends on your set up.. if your going drive by wire or drive by cable. But you have to get the engine harness from a LS1 for your f-bodies year. And you wanna make sure you get one with the 4l60e trans plug because the manual harness has a t-56 transmission plug. You don't want to have to buy a adapter to repin. But the ECU has to be for the right liter engine. So if you have a 5.3 you can get one on eBay for 145 bucks. It will say for a van but that's okay. It has VATS off, speedo turned off so you could max it but it may red line. Here's the important thing. If you go drive by cable your harness ECU plugs will be red and blue, the 5.3 is blue and green, so all you have to do is ask the seller on ebay with the ECU they have a green plastic plug piece for your ecm plugs. Then you just pop the red plastic plug off and replace it with the green and it's plug and play. Thats. You will also have to swap your pedal assembly and throttle body if your going drive by cable. DBW sucks. If your using a LS truck block be sure to get and use all LS1 F Body accessories and parts. Nothing from the truck stuff can be used. Lastly be sure to tell the person on eBay with the ECU the specs of your car, what kind of car it is, what engine, tire size and max speed on the speedo. Good luck bro.

They are listed as 22" LED sequential headlight strips on eBay. I paid 29.99 + tax

That's what I did at the start but I have 3 pages listed of stuff and so far I have over $5,573,90 into it and that's still not all of it. Some of it is accessory stuff. It's very costly imo. I never thought itd cost me this much just to get it running. It's a fun project but, do lots of research. You will have to buy a 5.3 ECU, LS1 Fbody harness, swap the bell housing. Buy all LS1 F-body specific engine accessories, intake, LS F body oil pan and pick up tube, , alternator, side mount alternator relocator bracket along with the pully, power steering pump, PSP pully. F body Water Pump. F Body LS1 harmonic Balancer, 5.7 LS1 belt. Spark plugs n wires, oil filter. LS1 f body motor mounts and spohn k member mounts. nothing from the truck engine except for the block itself can be used for the swap. The intake and accessories from the 5.3 stick out too much and are too large. Hope it works out for you bro.

Thanks. Yeah its quite the build, it's at least a 6- $9,000 adventure, but at least you can make it the way you want it and you know what's in it, I hope it all works out for you bro, I'll definitely check your channel out when you get it coming along.

Yeah I plan to post more as soon as it's complete. Maybe a update when I get the racing seats. But it pretty much depends what set up your going with. I bought everything I needed from eBay mainly. Such as alternator relocator brackets, power steering relocator brackets. Your going to need all LS1 Fbody accessories. Water Pump, Pullies, intake, oil pan nothing from the truck engine can be reused. The harmonic balancer is specific for Fbody I just found that out the hard way. You'll need the FBody harness the ECU for that engine. There's really a lot to buy and swap. It's a big list It's not easy nor cheap. I have nearly everything I'm still figuring out I need certain things even little stuff.. And the people who sell F-Body parts take advantage of price. I paid 500 for a stock LS1 intake smh.

You will also need a C5 Corvette fuel regulator if you are going from v6 to V8. V8 Fbodies had returnless fuel set up and the V6 had the return style so there's 2 fuel lines. Hooks up to the regulator then to the fuel rails. Hope that helps, sorry I can't give you a list off the top of my head. It'd take me awhile.

@@thehellbird8946 thank you for the information. I just received my mount adapters and my oil pan is in transit. I'll search ebay for all the stuff you mentioned.

@@scottschaos4376 I do know I'm using sphon k member mounts. I hope everything works out for you and comes together 😁 good luck. If you have any questions I'll try to help to the best of my knowledge

I hear they tend to break after 400 HP but my guess is as good as yours. We will find out I guess lol 🤷‍♂️

I didn't end up needing the spacer like I thought. It fit right up. Just make sure whatever size torque converter your using is a 27 spline deal.

Yes. As long as it has that top bolt hole. And it's from a 4l60e

You can use the bell housing but the V6 transmission from the 3.8 has a different pump shaft. Has less splines 27 rather than 30 I believe it is. I'd recommend to just buy a torque converter for a 27 spline to be on the safe side. The flexplate spacer was not needed. I got a 2300-2500 stall converter. Maybe a little under rated but it's what I could find for a cheap price. Hope it works out for you! 👍

It's coming along. Don't worry I haven't forgot about you guys lol video coming soon. I have all the parts I need to make it run, but we have been doing some construction on a garage roof and as soon as it is finished we can finish the car. It's been quite the process.

Yeah mine woulda costed less but I went all out on the things to make it look cool lol but I hope it will be done before summer. I will be making more videos once it warms up.