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Nunatak Adventures
Приєднався 14 січ 2023
We are a small adventure company based in Kulusuk, East Greenland. We offer guided adventures on remote glaciers, recreational and professional courses of mountaineering and hard ice guiding in Greenland and Iceland.
3 Person Alpine Crevasse rescue
This video cover the rescue of a member of a rope team of 3 or more people.
The rope work cover a mechanical advantage of 2:1 and 6:1 making this rescue possible for anyone whether the victim is able to help the rescuer or not.
If you are interested in knowing how to rescue a person when the rope team is only 2 people then click here:
ua-cam.com/video/kVi0nOrh2-4/v-deo.html
If you want to learn the 5 most common mountaineering knots click here:
ua-cam.com/video/hyFV5CjOZv0/v-deo.html
Mountaineering course in Iceland or Greenland:
www.nunatakadventures.com/courses
The rope work cover a mechanical advantage of 2:1 and 6:1 making this rescue possible for anyone whether the victim is able to help the rescuer or not.
If you are interested in knowing how to rescue a person when the rope team is only 2 people then click here:
ua-cam.com/video/kVi0nOrh2-4/v-deo.html
If you want to learn the 5 most common mountaineering knots click here:
ua-cam.com/video/hyFV5CjOZv0/v-deo.html
Mountaineering course in Iceland or Greenland:
www.nunatakadventures.com/courses
Переглядів: 8 746
Відео
2 Person Alpine Crevasse rescue
Переглядів 26 тис.Рік тому
This video covers the rescue of a climber from a crevasse when the rope team is 2 people. The video covers the direct pull rescue techniques making the mechanical advantage of 3:1 and also showing the transition to 5:1 if needed for the rescuer. if you are looking for the 3 people rescue click here below: ua-cam.com/video/yTHvhIPsHxg/v-deo.html if you want to learn the basic mountaineering knot...
Mountaineering knots
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
In this video you will learn the 5 basic mountaineering knots: figure 8, over hand, butterfly knot, clove hitch and Italian/Munter hitch. if you are interested in learning how to rescue someone from a crevasse when the rope team is 3 people or more click here below: ua-cam.com/video/yTHvhIPsHxg/v-deo.html If you want to see how to rescue someone from a crevasse when the team is only 2 people cl...
Thanks for the video, super clear! What is the rope clamp/ascender you are using in the video?
Thanks a lot. It is the Petzl micro traction.
What would be the reason for not using the z pulley system in this case? And shouldnt the 3rd person be the on creating the anchor system instead of the person holding the weight?
Hi, i’ll give you few reason. Z pulley is a simple rescue usually used on the rope of the fallen climber which makes things very hard to pull. When possible (if your rope is long enough) you should always go with the fastest option which is 2:1. One important difference between z-pulley and 2:1 is that the rescuer is right above the victim, this way eliminating the friction of the edge of the crevasse and in vocal and visual contact. To your other question: the anchor should always be built by the closest person to the fallen climber. This way you have available the most amount of rope (also the rope between 2nd and 3rd person).
@@nunatakadventures66 Thanks for sharing!
Good clear video! Thanks for making! Curious about usefulness of a backup anchor or if there is a method that keeps the rescuer in the system with minimum slack so they can self arrest in case of anchor failure.
Hi and thanks for your comment. I forgot to add in the video the fact that with 2 people team you always need to build 2 snow anchors (snow picket and one ice axe for example) and equalise it so in case one would fail there is another one.
That is a very nice demonstration. Of course there are many many ways that you can approach this, and the choice that you made you demonstrated very well.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! Best instructions I have seen on 2 person pull system, especially on working around the braking knots. Clear and easy to follow! Braking the initial fall seems like the crux of a situation though. Bet in needs a good amount of practice!
Thank you for your comment. It is indeed the hard part arresting the fall. We do not recommend it but the technical system could be useful anyways. For example if number 2 out of 3 falls in, you probably wont have enough extra rope to do any other system. Glad you found it helpful. Nicco Founder Nunatak adventures.
Hi, thank you for excelent video! Please what thicknesses of reep cords do you use? I am wondered if you have 9mm rope if you can use 6mm reep cords for all used purposes.
Hi thank you for your comment. Yes you can but if you look for all purposes best 7mm cause you can use it to make anchors as well on ice climbing trips for example. But if you would own a glacier travel rope of 8mm you would need the 6mm cord to have good grip doing prusik hitches.
@@nunatakadventures66 OK, thank you so much! Take care :)
Thanks for this detailed video. I'll be doing a 12.5km traverse over a glacier in Alaska with one team member this late July, and this was good learning material in addition to an in person crevasse rescue course.
Good to hear! And good luck on the trip
Hello! And thanks for the video. What length of rope were you using for this demonstration?
Hi, thank you for your comment. In this case the rope is 40m, 9mm. The quickest rescue would be doing a “drop loop 2:1” (ua-cam.com/video/yTHvhIPsHxg/v-deo.htmlsi=X3avewYb3f5Hs373) but if the rope is not long enough, you have to do direct pull or 3:1 which is covered in the video you just commented
What cord do you use in the rescue’s
Corde is a 6mm thick, 3m long.
I think this IS the video for rescue. I've been watching many and this covers so much good stuff clearly. Thank you!
Thank you so much. Means a lot to us.
Good video, thanks for sharing! I have a question - is the assumption here that the tension on the rope will be too high to be able to undo the butterfly knots as they approach the traction device? Is it strictly speaking necessary to use the cordelette? Or does it just make it easier.
Hi Andrew and thanks for your message. Indeed the tesion is too much to physically be able to undo the knot. So the method using the cordalette is necessary to put the tension beyond the butterly knot into the prusik to then undo the butterfly so the rope can be taken into the ratchet (micro traction). Not the only method but an easy one to practice. Hope this clarify :)
Excellent video, thank you so much.
Thank you! Appreciate your comment.