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Heck yes thats the way to go. Thanks for sharing that and thanks for watching.

You got that right my friend. Thanks for watching.

Thank you and thanks for watching and supporting the channel

Thank you and thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and enjoy those new lights.

Moguće je da je zid cilindra u koji klip klizi napuknut. Osjećat ćete se kao da je sve u redu dok ne pritisnete zid. Pukotina koju spominjem će procuriti bilo kakvu kompresiju koju klip stvara. To bi bila moja najbolja pretpostavka jer je to uobičajeno s ovim pilama. Hvala na podršci i nadam se da će ovo pomoći. It's possible that the cylinder wall that the piston slides into may be cracked. It will feel like everything is fine until you press against the wall. The crack I mention will leak any compression that the piston creates. That would be my best guess as its common with these saws. Thanks for your support and hope this helps.

@CaptFerd ok,thank you,i will check it

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your support.

Thanks for watching. I hope that this helps. I know how frustrating these decks can be. I had heard that they were originaly designed for a 5/8 belt but was cheaper for mtd to roll them off the assembly line with a cheaper thinner belt. The one I used was 162 3/4 long. Thats a lot of belt for a mower deck. Thanks again and good luck friend.

Im glad you found it helpful. Thank you for your comment and support.

Thanks for watching

So glad to help and thank you for watching.

All the aftermarket fuel pumps come from the same place as the koler. They are all branded different by different bulk buyers. So brand wont matter. Best bet is to find the best price model your looking for. I always use amazon, best return policy. If it comes with a filter toss it and get the Kohler 10-micron filter. I havent found any substitutes for that. pressure tester not a bad idea to isolate a bad pump. Thanks for watching and hope I was some help.

Thank you for watching.

The part # for mine is CY-1A7880-62500. I did a quick search and cant find anything. May have to get out the welder patch the old if you can or fabricate a new one. But there has to be one out there somewhere just got to find it. Ill keep an eye out for ya. Thanks again for your support.

Not the easiest. Lower it to the ground. Take the pins out of the rear wheels on the deck so you can turn them. Release the front part and remove it. Unlatch the the pins from where it raises the deck and raise them up out of the way. Then remove the drive shaft from the transfer case and be careful not to separate the 2 pieces. Very heavy takes some time but easier the more you do it. Heres one that may interest you. ua-cam.com/video/m0EVyeBEowo/v-deo.htmlsi=ro8-24vGN2fANVBh Its a different brand but ztr with the Yanmar diesel and similar design. Lots of info about the gear box and drive shaft. Thanks for watching.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

The compressor in this video has been reassigned to a different part of the shop where it is only used for powering a vehicle lift, impact wrenches and a tire changer (Light duty). Doesnt get used much at all over there. Im sure if they continued to run the sanders and grinders on it that it would have burnt again but it hasnt to this point. Dont know if I mentioned it, but I put a new check valve in it as well. Ive often wondered if the pump itself may be the problem, a bad configuration of pulleys or something like that. No one can figure it out. Feel bad for all the people going through this and there are a lot. They've been selling them for years and continue to sell them today with this same problem.

The compressor in this video has been reassigned to a different part of the shop where it is only used for powering a vehicle lift, impact wrenches and a tire changer (Light duty). It has been problem free since these repairs and upgrades were made. If you plan on using it to run air sanders and grinders it will run constant and hot. My opinion would be that if you're only going to use it as a light duty compressor like I described above you should be ok if you add a magnetic starter. If you're going to use it to run body shop type tools, you'll have to dig deeper in the wallet and go with one of the very few that are made here in the US. The problem is that these compressors are everywhere disguised under different colors and name brands and all at that price range. With all that said the one you found may be your best bet but for home use only. Shopping around may be a waste of time. Be sure to get all the info you can about getting it serviced if a problem should arise during warranty. Im not sure how TC does that anymore. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.

@@CaptFerd Fantastic info, I appreciate it. I'm glad to hear the mods worked well. Definitely going for home garage use. Impact wrench and sandblaster mostly. Maybe a sander or small paint booth one day or even vehicle lift. I liked the 15,000 hour lifetime on this two stage compressor but after digging into it iv found this issue with the electric motor. It definitely seems like getting the magnetic starter is a must. Not sure if straight installing the magnetic starter would void warranty at all, but that's an Ingersoll Rand question. At the very least I know I can go with the magnetic starter if the first one fails outside of warranty. I appreciate your response!

@@JHarris Hopefully they've addressed the issues, and you'll enjoy years of problem free service like the old Ingersoll brands once did. Thanks again for your support of my channel

Thanks for watching

Should be able to get a new one if the mower is worth it. Need any info let me know and Thanks for watching.

@@CaptFerd I couldn’t find a video that showed how to change just the height lever. I’m not really that handy in the mechanical department, but thanks for your reply.

Your welcome and thanks for watching

I agree 100%. Dam shame they just change the color and name and keep ripping people off with these things. Thank you for watching, commenting and support.

Great guy. Heck he gave me a free shirt.

You may have missed the part where a different motor was ordered, but the same motor I was trying to get away from was sent instead. This is not my personal compressor. The work was being done for a company that I do service for. You are so right that people get what they pay for and the damaged we suffer by not supporting our US products, but there are not many options out there for these compressors. Thank you for your patriotism, comment and for watching.

Sorry to hear that. Would be glad to help email your pic

Found out the problem. It was A2 I was needing to connect to and the wire from the switch to L1 instead of L3. I found a video showing it with this brand. It could of changed over the years.

@@nephtalilucero8084 Glad that you figured it out. Thanks for watching

Your welcome and thanks for watching

Thanks for your support. Got a few more Miller welder videos coming soon.

On the faces of the pumps you could see the scratches that prevent them from working. The mower would turn in circles uphill because of the weak pump. The parts that you saw me change with new were what were bad or broken. All the gears and everything else were ok. Thanks for the comment and questions I hope this helps.

Yes thats the only thing that holds it. With the nut off you should see a star or spline pattern that mates the spindle and pully. Screw the nut back on to protect the threads on the nut and spindle. Leave space and tap on the nut with a hammer. That should pop the pully off and drive the shaft downwards. Now once you get the pully lose. take the nut off remove the pully. You should be able to remove the spindle after that. May have to put the nut back on if you have to tap that spindle out. Just dont damage the treads.. Thanks for watching and commenting glad to help with what I can.

Glad you liked it. So many things can burn them up never know. I have a couple other videos with lots more info (tear down, filing ring gaps and putting back together) Although different brands they are all pretty much the same in those 3 areas. I think they will help you a lot with your rebuild. ua-cam.com/video/wtv_F0yJIpE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Wm5wT1WrQSA/v-deo.html Thanks for your support and save the ole farm boss.

what kind of oil did you put in the oil tank and what kind of gas do you run Denny?

@@AA-tb4ff I like those little Orange Stihl brand bottles. My personal stuff at home it last most the summer mixed in with a gallon mid-grade 89 octane gas.

That will fix it

On this model from 2003 to 2012 the lights are all the same. Is yours an older model or one of the new ones?

Glad you found it helpful and thanks for watching.

That would be an idea setting. You could dial it down but may find yourself resetting the breaker every now and then.

I remember those ole valve covers. Great idea and I bet they work great. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.

You are welcome!

Youll have no problem they are easy to make. So much more satisfying to look at when youve made them yourself. Thanks for your support.

The head and piston were around $400 . A while back it was a new coil. Yep no aftermarket parts over here. Very expensive to fix but well built machines are worth it.

@@CaptFerd Totally agree with you Ferd. In the UK tradesmen tend to use the Stihl TS400 & TS410 disc cutters.. For some reason Makita machines are rather thin on the ground.. Have a great day, Simon..

Thank you for the great idea; it seems like it would work. I was seeking a more cost-effective option. It appears to still work well, lasting a few years given the minimal use I require from them. Again, thank you for sharing.

@@CaptFerd I’m A little to buy one myself and was thinking it through and a caster makes a lot of sense to me. I like your idea but a castor should last for years and won’t drag

@@jeffgerst3619 You may be on to a good thing there.

Thank you for your kind comments and support. I was measuring from the wrong fin on the motor as you could see that first trip out.

It couldn't have been said any better. While working at Sam's Club, I watched a man come in and switch all the stickers on the batteries we had in stock. They went from Exide to Duracell right before my eyes. What a deception with name brands. Thank you for sharing.

LOL .

LOL . Shit hit the fan when I told the owner of the company. Fingers started pointing everywhere. Im guessing the oil just jumped in there by itself. No one admits to adding the oil. If its using it Your so right, I may get to put those rings in anyway. Thanks for watching.

This one was used to run Da sanders as well. Lots of good solutions and tips in the comments below. Im thinking that ive heard some good words about the Harbor freight pumps but havent tried them myself. Whichever you go with find a good motor and add a magnetic switch. Any motors similar to these are junk. The compressor in the video still working well but move to the mechanic's shop. Runs Impacts and lifts. Thanks for watching and the kind comments. Glad you found me to.

Your welcome. Thanks for watching

The choke plate was preventing it from starting at all. They bent it to the point of being stuck. Once off it fired up the way it did. (Sputtered and popped). I think you miss next, where I zoomed in on the rocker arm that moved off the top of the Valve. 4:17 That was the sole problem of it not running and answering the question of why it had 150 lbs compression, spark and fuel but still did not run. This is rare but I have seen this happen before with hydraulic lifters. Sorry if the video didn't meet your expectations Ill do better next time. Thanks for watching and sharing your comment.

Very inexpensive but works as good as some of the high dollar mics. FIFINE Gaming USB Microphone. Thanks www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JG62KDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1