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Denim Manufacturing - Weaving Processes - Yarn Flow
Warp yarns are fed from the loom beam and pass over a whip roll or rollers, which help to control variation in yarn tension during weaving. The yarns are then directed through drop wires, heddles, and a comb-like device called a reed. The spaces between the reed wires across the width of the reed are called dents. Each reed will have a specific number of dents per inch - 12 to 18 for most denim and denim-type fabrics. The reed number and the number of warp ends determine the woven width of the fabric.
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Відео
Denim Manufacturing - Weaving Processes - Drawing in and Warp Tying
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When a new denim style is put on a weaving machine, it is necessary to draw or insert the warp yarns through various elements, including the stop motion devices, weave design control devices, and a filling beat-up device. Each end of yarn must have its own individual drop wire and heddle and be inserted into the correct dent in the reed. This procedure can be done manually or automatically on d...
Denim Manufacturing - Weaving Processes - Basic Weaving Motions
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Four basic motions are required to weave a fabric, such as denim - warp control (let-off and take-up), shedding, filling insertion, and beat-up. The warp control determines the rate the fabric will be made. The shedding determines the design, the filling insertion determines the range of speeds, and the beat-up pushes the inserted filling yarn into the fabric.
Denim Manufacturing - Yarn Processes - Yarn Spinning Systems
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The two most common spinning systems used to produce yarns for denim fabrics are ring spinning and open-end rotor spinning.
Denim Manufacturing - Yarn Processes - Yarn Numbering
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Yarns used in denim fabrics are termed “short-staple spun yarns,” because they are formed from fibers having a staple length of less than 2.5 inches. The cotton fiber usually is just over an inch long. One of the key pieces of yarn information for development and manufacture of denim is the choice of yarn size. The terms “yarn number,” “yarn count,” and “yarn size” are used interchangeably to r...
Denim Manufacturing - Yarn Processes - Warping
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“Warping” is the process of transferring multiple yarns, each on a separate yarn package, onto a single collecting package.
Denim Manufacturing - Yarn Processes - Slashing
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The main purpose of sizing warp yarns is to encapsulate the yarn with a protective coating. This protective coating reduces yarn abrasion during weaving. The size also reduces yarn hairiness, preventing adjacent yarns from becoming entangled. For many years, native or slightly modified starches with corresponding binders were regarded as the most economical size for indigo warps. The change to ...
Denim Manufacturing - Yarn Processes - Dyeing
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Most denim fabric is yarn dyed; the warp yarns are dyed with indigo, and the filling yarns are left undyed. However, solid shades are becoming more popular and can be dyed by various methods.
Typical Denim Construction, Weaves, Weights
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The typical construction of a bottom-weight 14-ounce denim is 55 to 64 warp ends per inch and 38 to 42 filling picks per inch. The number of warp ends per inch is sometimes referred to as the “sley.” Of course, the size of the yarn used, the fabric weave design, and the fabric tightness will influence the weight, as will the amount of size left on the finished fabric.
Process Flow for Denim Manufacturing
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Warp yarns used in indigo denim fabrics must go through numerous unique processing steps before they are ready to be placed on the weaving machine. If the warp yarns are to be indigo dyed on a long chain or rope range, the yarn is ball warped and then rope dyed, followed by re-beaming onto section beams. The warp yarns are then slashed before being woven.
Non Conventional Denim Fabrics
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In the past, herringbone weaves, Bedford cords, seersucker, and combinations of 3 by 1 (3/1) and 1 by 3 (1/3) twill weaves have been produced as non-conventional denim variants, along with plain-weave chambray. Jacquard designs and dobby weaves have also been incorporated into the basic denim design. As fashion designers create new ideas, the fabric manufacturers must follow the demands of mark...
Denim Finishing Machinery - Rotary Machines
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Because rotary drum machines are versatile and accommodate a wide range of fabric types and chemical processes, they are used for a variety of wet processes. These machines consist of an outer containment cylinder, and an inner perforated drum or basket that rotates within the outer cylinder. An access door, usually located on the side of the outer cylinder, allows access to the perforated drum...
History of Denim
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During the 1950s, young America discovered “blue jeans,” and the industry exploded in the United States. This fashion soon spread to other cultures, and denim became more than just fabric - it became a social statement. The history of jeans dates back to 1567, when the word “genoese” or “genes” was used to describe the tough twill trousers worn by merchant sailors from Genoa, Italy. Modern-day ...
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This is a wonderful documentary. Where was it produced? PBS? History channel?
Thanks a lot very clear and well done!!
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