Відео

I agree, I think the fact that they were relatively cheap 10 or so years ago didn't help them survive well, people would buy them cheap and then not bother to, or be able to afford the maintenance and up keep on them, perhaps not realising the on going costs for a Z32 can be quite high depending on condition.

An excellent explanation of what is going on, thanks mate.

Haha! yeah, you are bang on! Diesel animations are a rarer find!

That's fair, perhaps I'll follow up and test them out compared to other brand name tools.

Agree mate, a very good alternative when a press or tooling is not available. I've also used a grinder to grind a flat spot on the collar and/or inner race, almost down to the shaft and hit the flat spot with a chisel before I had the press, as you said safety glasses and long sleeves are a must on this hardened steel!

That's not good to hear, sounds like you have had a different experience than me, appreciate the honest feedback, helps others form an accurate opinion of this gear.

Hi, on removal with engine off, carefully crack injector lines, there should be no pressure there. Once assembled, be sure the lines are all torqued to spec, no need to bleed them at all, the system will bleed itself, due to the extreme common rail pressure you never want the lines loose if the engine is operating. Once it's all tight and back together, prime the filter primer as much as you can and start it up. It may stall, just prime and start again.

I actually did not delete anything during the clean, it was just a clean out of the intake. I did, however, have a EGR blank plate in for a few weeks (the one with a 7mm hole in it) and found all sorts of boost spikes and erratic boost pressures so I removed it. Are you getting any engine lights or codes when you experience low power?

Yeah, I saw a heap of those ads saying that kit was free, but I never quite managed to do so.

Thanks mate, yep got mine here: www.ebay.com.au/itm/226214480350?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=foqkytjpsoc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Yt4HXQpuQiu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Fingers crossed yours isn't cracked. Be sure to check around the back. I had the biggest crack there, and it was leaking. Also, make sure you tap the injector line seals home with a small punch, I didn't show in the video, but they need to be all the way home flush with the rocker cover.

Very fair, got exited for my fast and furious days 😅

Thanks mate! A few variables there, mainly where you take the car to get them done. If you use new genuine denso injectors, or recon units and if there's a core charge/refund for your old ones. Typically injectors from Toyota are marked up, but always worth a quote. Also what components get replaced, namely the injector tubes, if these are replaced with new there is extra labour and parts. Injectors can be checked with a scan tool for feedback values to check condition, if one is + - 2 ish (cold) usually all 4 need to be changed. Injectors were different in the later models and all new injectors need compensation coding after installation.

@@simmoshomeworkshop thanks simmo. Mine is the D4D 2013 model with 255k on the clock. The engine works fine but is just a little noisy when cold. I have it setup nicely and plan to keep it going and good to see high km models still going strong. Maintain it per the book but never had injector replacement on my radar. I had a 2007 D4D Prado and that had over 450k on clock with original injectors and was very noisy when cold but just fine after warm up - I nursed it until it quietened down. The injector seals were replaced under warranty so I never worried. Should I get injectors assessed?

Personally, if these are original injectors at 255K and it is rattling when cold, I'd have them looked at if you are concerned. The rattling when cold is caused by the injector spindle seizing open for a fraction too long, usually due to wear in the injector. Being a 2013, it would have the latest updated seals and injectors, which help with longevity, but they don't last forever.

I agree, surely most must have some sort of override to move the vehicle in the case of having an empty tank, but I'm yet to see one, most that have had issues or empty tanks are towed. As for LPG / Diesel systems I've seen a couple of fitments on TD42 Patrols but not on anything new enough that also has AdBlue, could be a good thing as the LPG would reduce NOx. Be hard to justify using LPG and removing an AdBlue or similar system to an inspecting agency, I'd say.

@@simmoshomeworkshop I had LPG fitted to a 3.0 L V6 2012 Navara Diesel I could get 1600+km on the open road (not towing) on the tank of Diesel and 2 1/2 tanks of Diesel to a tank of LPG. No DEF on that vehicle. Now I'm in a V6 Amarok and have DEF and max out at about 1100 km on a tank of fuel. (Both have L.R. tanks).

How are you finding the Amarok DEF system? Any plans to add LPG to it also?

Hey mate, both, when you remove the master key the security light will go solid red, insert the new key and it will begin to flash, after 60 seconds or sooner the flashing should stop indicating a successful entry. Hope this helps

I'd say yes, unless the beeper has been muffled, removed or is broken the beeping is an indication the barrel is aware the key is inserted and the door is open, which is important to the procedure. But worth a try either way to see if it works.

@@simmoshomeworkshop the beeper works because it comes oh whenever I drive without the seat belt done up. But maybe my ignition is so worn that it can't make the door open beep; which would explain why I also can't get the security light solid. I have two master keys and neither can make it beep.

Mine did also have this issue, it is very worn on the barrel and the master key, I did find with the key in and the door open if I pushed the key perpendicular to the barrel or wiggled it i could find the sweet spot and the beeper would sound. I made sure to hold the key in such a way as I did the procedure it would work.

Hey mate, the circlip on the differential side has a round profile and should pop in and out of the axle gear (the reason the pry bar may be required) I was (carefully) levering the shaft out against the differential housing between the shaft and the housing. As this didn't work without applying too much force I opted to get behind the shaft with the bar and tap it out. This usually works to shock the circlip out of the axle gear so the shaft can be pulled out, they aren't too tight just need a little careful persuasion.

@@simmoshomeworkshop yep as you said easy peasy! My cv joint did not want to come off the spline without one hell of a fight. Did you change the front diff seal?

I did not change the seal, I inspected it and the journal on the shaft and decided it wasn't leaking and was ok to go again. If in doubt, however changing it is advised.

Just eBay, I checked the link it's not there anymore, but there are heaps of alternatives, these were about $50 and still look good today as the day I fitted them, I searched "toyota hilux 05-15 window seal" they vary in price and likely in quality too.

Thanks mate good info! All going well on a trip hopefully won't need to open the bonnet!

Fair, never had a problem with mine, touch wood, being auto too makes the starter all the more important!

If you are after genuine, a Toyota dealer or wrecker would be the way to go, after market there are a few options, Utemart do a selection of sizes if you want to go wider than factory flares, other than that most online retailers like eBay have options for aftermarket flares. Me, I got these 2nd hand on market place unused.

Hey mate, yeah that's interesting, I had a bit of a look, and the OLM1840BL (this one that has a 50L catcher) is advertised with a 45L catcher on the bunnings website.. weird, but on the Ryobi site, it does say 50L and mulch plug, but the catcher flap has, on some images, 45L written on it. All I can assume is they updated the catcher and lowered the capacity to stop it doing wheelies when it is full? I see bunning is still advertising the skin only option, this one I bought from a local bunning as a skin only for the same price advertised today back in 2023, I'm not sure if they still stock them as skin only, but this one was.