Відео

Yep sounds like a good idea for before the axles get shortened

Actually that was the original plan. Have the motor put in sideways with the axles going to the diff inputs. However, since the leaf has a built in 8.3 to 1 and the diffs being 4.3, that would be a 35.7 to 1 ratio which is extremely slow considering overall it should be about 8.3. So yes I did consider that. Additionally, theres the issue that the leaf diff is open. Meaning either if the front or rear slip then you lose power on the opposite side. I'd have to weld the leaf diff, essentially making it 4wd and as explained thats an issue with steering. But yes, great question, it has been considered

Glad to hear! If you need the wire diagram, I have a pdf of the manual too I can send, elsewise it's on the discord server under Suzuki-gsf600s. Hope you can get your tach working!

@@mechanceism The orange/green wire was indeed broken inside the harness. I stripped them back and soldered them together. The carbs are off right now for cleaning, so I can't test it. I don't think the tach will work until it starts...?

@deebrann6690 That would make sense as the orange/green line runs to tach, oil pressure light, and the neutral light. If those are working now too then you'll know you fixed at least something significant without having to run the engine. The Black/red wire is your actual tach signal wire that comes from the ignition control unit. You could fake the pulses, but it would be way easier to just find out later when the engine is running. Hope that helps!

Yeah bench testing is a must, especially since I haven't done this before. After the bench test is done, and before it goes onto the frame, I do have a video planned on messing around with it and having some fun

Yeah it came way faster than I expected, I'll have to do something for it

I considered a locking center diff, actually I was looking into just having the drive shaft go directly to both diffs without anything in between for a while. I also considered just using a transfer case. But they all had the issue that if this was put onto a track with a lot of turns, then the amount of excess load on the front axles because of turn radius would cause the front to either slip, not turn, or break something up front. So the solution was to put a diff in the middle. Out of the 3 diffs, the middle was most important to be an lsd to hold that lockup but also slip to reduce that strain. Thanks for looking out! We'll have to see how it ends up performing

That's cool, yeah I'll definitely let you know if anything comes up. Yes, I did make a project post with about the same name as this video. Yeah, the 24kwh pack is a current problem, but I plan on either changing out the current pack already or using some high voltage super caps for "boost". There's a link in the description for the discord server if you want to talk more or you want to share your project too!

Oh yeah also, if you watch Dala's videos from the openinverter community, his leaf is also from gwinnett and he had it shipped to the EU, small world

@@mechanceism I did discover your discord- you probably saw me join late last night. Will catch up there.

I did consider that, but there were some issues. If I went that route it would have been far simpler to get 2 front leaf subframes and just modify from there. That and because these are 3phase ac permanent magnet motors they need individual inverters each too. The size started building up. And then the delema of having enough current from the battery pack would be again an issue. This is currently a 24kwh pack with has a max discharge of 90kw. The plan is to either sawp the pack for a bigger one or add some big high voltage super caps to allow for big power bursts. All in all 2 motors minimum would require 160kw which is more than this could support. If you want more info, I can explain a lot more on the discord server.

I'll make the change. My headphones broke between editing the last 2 or 3 videos so I've been winging it since by using monitor speakers

Wow that is intense looking, those tires alone are insane. Cool build

Thank you! Yeah it's interesting how they do that. Additionally, I think the tesla cyber truck has a 3rd 48v battery. Interesting how stuff is designed

@@mechanceism When i used to build electric karts and scooters, i did not run 2 seperate systems( for contactors, lights , etc) , so it doesnt make much sense to me but the engineers designing EVS are much smarter than I am so it is what it is .

Sure! While most newer car batteries really shouldn't have this issue because of the hard outer plastic, the humidity and how concrete can absorb water makes it so that the terminals can get oxidized faster. That corrosion between the terminals makes it drain faster. Less about grounding I think and more about concrete being lightly porous for water to seep through enough. Since car batteries only have a relatively small potential of 12v, its fine and they are pretty solid, but the leaf battery is around 400v and made entirely out of metal. While yes the original container was metal it was sealed from fluids. Since it's open now, its less protected. The bus bars of the cells in series can become unbalanced and underload can be dangerous because cells can fall below threshold charge while others haven't yet. I'm currently waiting on BMS parts to mitigate this possibility. I don't want to be a fireball in the end haha. Thank you for subscribing!

Also electrician, and no, it wont matter where you set your battery down. Some environments can degrade electrical systems, i see it in sewage pumping stations and sewage plant etc. Keep battery clean and dry, so no voltage creep can occur. Keep it charged so it cant freeze. Otherwise its just a myth. Old sulfated batterys often have lower capacity, and some small self discharge also, due to oxides in the cells.

Interesting, I just checked, and while there is audio from both sides, it looks like the right side was in safety mode. Nice catch, I'll make the change

That's very interesting, I've not heard about seo before. I'll check it out Thank you!

​@@mechanceism Please check your email box. I explained the problem and SEO in your channel in detail.

It's Search Engine Optimization. It's not particularly relevant since Google changed a few bits very recently.

Search engine optimization. Makes the videos show up higher in search results. The algorithm suggested your video. Whatever you did, it's working.

Really appreciate it! Yeah I have to have a balance of completly emptying my bank account and having something to work on. SuperfastMatt is the best

I've been wondering that too. This last weekend I have been making the rear motor mounts like you suggested so I can get the positioning of the front shocks right. I also spent the last 3 days cleaning the front shocks. I think It should be fine for the most part, and I can adjust preload if needed. But if it doesn't end up working, yeah I'll have to buy stiffer springs and probably shocks to suit that too. We'll have to see!

I had a huge tree fall on the next project that's coming out soon too, rn im seeing if you can adapt another steering rack to replace that old steering stem

Yep yep already the plan, was waiting until I get to more parts to be welded until I get to it

Actually what if you replace the vertical bars entirely and mock up a mount that is just as long at the vertical bars (or longer) and bolts directly to the bottom of the frame? That way to can make them wider apart and be easier to work on.

Good point, I could add that in still. I guess I just was trying to use as many original frame features as I could. This was from half a year ago so I don't remember all the reasoning, but I do remember that it does require some pivot rotation since the rear transmission is in a fixed location. So I'm pivoting the engine cage to tension the chain a bit. But realistically if the frame flexes the chain would losen slightly. So your second bottom mount idea would be handy. Next video I cover more chain ideas, but in the end I think the chain will be on a jack shaft I just ordered and a standard idler will tension the chain. Good comment, I'll see what I can do.

Blown motor and got the whole thing for $330. Its almost 30 years old and so much of it is broken its more for just fun of putting a bigger motor that doesn't fit in it. The video coming tomorrow will explain more, wanted to make some suspense

Really appreciate it! Love to hear about others projects

Same! Im about to start a 2003 k3 600 and these are so helpful! Keep it going buddy! Love your dad always helping too!

Don't worry, I definitely got one later. This video is from a while ago before I knew motorcycles came with manuals that aren't useless like modern car manuals.

@@mechanceism by the way, looking in petrol tank in that vid, looks in fkn good condition. Fuel been drained and no rust. new smaller indicators and new battery i reckon you got a looked after bike.