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toyotatacoma02
Приєднався 10 кві 2007
Whirlpool Undercounter Ice maker GI15NDXZS2 problem
This ice maker overfills into the ice bin melting the ice. This unit doesn't appear to have a water level sensor from the factory like the older models. Any ideas of what the problem could be? What causes it to advance to the next stage if there is no sensor?
Переглядів: 13 596
change the transformer get a surger protector on these units , and check or change the 2 pumps
This is normal fill time for this machine. They do this to insure a full bin no matter the pressure. ....youre welcome (authorized master tech)
Agreed. Manual says it is supposed to overfill and carry away minerals from previous cycle. Water valve opens for 3 minutes. Mine fills in 1 minute and overflows for 2. Does that sound about right to you? Guess I could partially close water supply to decrease pressure and change the fill to overflow ratio. And I've never seen a hose attached to the overflow hole even though it does seem to have a fitting for one. Maybe part of the design to keep old ice at back of machine and melt off first?
i’ver seen this before in my icemaker. this cant be normal?
ok. so this 4 years old but it may help someone else. your missing the plastic tube that connectsa to the overflow hole whwre you water is coming from. it just provides a path for the water to the drain and keeps it from touching the ice thus preventing it from melting so much. the fill valve it timed and it dors over fill and that is proper operation.
I've never seen a tube attached to the overflow hole. No part number. It looks like there is a fitting to allow for one. Mable its by design to keep older ice melting off to the back?
What’s the fix? This is happening to my exact model new out of box. Thank you. Kevin
Oh thank god no comments like “wElL, i’D haVe dOne IT eXacTlY oPpoSite” - good video
Float switch in the circulation pump has failed. Replace pump to repair.
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location. Thx
Hi, did you ever get this resolved. I just bought a used unit and have this problem. Thanks
Yes turned the water flow down coming into the machine because it was filling the reservoir too fast and overflowing. Apparently it's controlled by timer regardless of your water flow.
There a water level switch inside the circulation pump. It’s failed. Replace
@@unknownuser1070 No level switch inside the pump.
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location? Thx
Thanks for great video No BS just straight to the point 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yea, so mark an X at 16 and mark 3/4 both ways out from 16
Excellent work💪💪
There is any stud already marked at 16 inches on the marked?
Roll Tide !! Much love ..... Go Gators !!
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing.
In dive minutes, you explain all
I don't understand why you measure 15.25" for the first mark. If the outer stud is flush with the plate, then measuring from the end of the plate to 16" would indeed give you the inner edge of the next stud. I don't see or understand for the life of me how or where you're getting that measuring 16" from the LEFT END of the first stud (or the end of the top plate, because they're flush with one another) will somehow give you the CENTER of the next stud. It _won't._ That doesn't make any sense. 16" is 16" is 16", no matter how you slice it. So, IF INDEED all of the studs are supposed to be 16" apart, then you would indeed have to measure 16" from the end, to find the nearest edge of the next stud (note: If it's 16" from center of one stud to the next, then it is ALSO 16" from either side of one stud to the same corresponding side of the next stud). It's simple math. You're explaining this as if somehow measuring 15.25" from the end of one stud (as denoted by the end of the top plate, which you are using to mark your measurements) will somehow magically give you a 16" distance between the first two studs, or give you the nearest side of the 2nd stud of an actual 16" spacing. This is clearly NOT the case. It won't give you 16" from the first to 2nd stud, it will give you exactly what you measured -- 15/25 inches! So, instead of having a 16", 16", 16" distance and so on, you will have a 15.25" 16",16", and so on. But clearly there is a reason for this (otherwise an 8 ft. piece of sheet rock would come up 0.75" short on that 7th stud -- why? -- Because that first sheet (if starting from the left) is exactly 8 ft., so if you were actually attaching it to the CENTER of the first stud, then it would be right, BUT, you _aren't_ attaching it to the center of the first stud; you are covering the ENTIRE stud, correct? Which means that either A) you would need a sheet that is 0.75" LONGER (which they don't make them in those lengths) in order to make up for that extra length being covered, *_OR,_* ......... *you would make the spacing between one of those 1st studs 0.75" SHORTER in order to compensate for the extra o.75" you would need but not have in order to cover that first stud.* Has this really never occurred to you? or have you not actually thought it through on your own? P.S. Please give a like to this comment if you've also had this question and not had anyone properly answer it for you, so I know I'm not the only one. Clearly I'm not the only one, though, given as how I see another individual has asked the same question on Reddit (with no answer, of course, except the stupidest/dumbest attempts I've ever seen) and used the same logic to explain how it doesn't make sense -- which, IT DOESN'T -- NOT the way it is explained in every video I've seen so far attempting to explain it. This is clearly a case of people just repeating whatever they are taught, without ever actually thinking about it for themselves. See, I'm not that smart of a guy, but, sometimes I'm too smart for my own good; I've have this little where things actually have to make SENSE in order for them to make sense to me. It's a curse.
I have had the same thoughts. Thank you for clearing this up.
I love this comment! The first cavity (and last) will be 13 3/4 inch wide and all the others will be 14 1/4 inches wide! But sadly, this is how carpenters do it. It's only confusing because they say, 16"OC. They should say, 16 Centers On Center or something!
You answered your own question! It's for the sheathing to start fully on the outside stud, or joist, or rafter, or truss, and still break on center on preceeding members
Just going to say that building or renovations probably aint going to be your cup of tea
Nice video thanks
No entra en agua a la bandeja para que caiga al cortador,tiene una fuga en el sensor negro que esta a la vista dentro de cajon.
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location
Thank you for the no bs knowledge!
Tengo el mismo problema. Hay que reemplazar el sensor de nivel de agua, El n'umero de parte es WPW10485962. Ya lo tengo pero no sé donde se instala.
Did your fix work?
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location? Thank u
Making sure my line in on the marrr
lol
Framing square! I assume everyone knows why the body and tongue are 24, and 16" respectively? In case not, they can be used to lay out studs without using a measuring tape.. Just lay and mark. Then line up the center hole on the tongue over the mark, square it, mark it, ..studs 16" on center. Can't find this on any video.. I guess it's just so common that none of the videos mention it? Also, have to allow for corner blocking so the sheet rock will line up on the center of the studs. Thank you for a great video!
I'm in Puerto Rico most houses are build with concrete but this is good to know :)
Very good Video, very helpful!
Wonderful explanation good teacher
Did you understand what he was saying about the first measurement being 15 1/4" instead of 16?
Now your ready to build one.
Southern accents should be illegal .
Have same problem after replacing a broken water line. Don’t see timer type module. May have to replace water valve (could have timer inside?)
I ended up restricting the water flow by putting a water valve on mine. It was filling up way to fast and spilling over
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location. Thx
That was 3 years ago and I remember working on that thing a few times. Ultimately replaced unit.
A short video but it is very specific thanks bro this is what I was looking for I was confused about the 16
Whoa whoa wait a minute 1:12 ... are those wires gracefully crossing over the TOP of the studs where they will just drywall over it or am I missing something here?
Thank you for the excellent instructional video. Great idea to nail support posts ahead of lifting the wall.
Can't listen to that
But how do u lay out if you have a wall 90 degrees to another wall to form a corner?
If I am not mistaken there has been some failure issues with the fresh water pump relay; that, I think has a timed flow sensor feature built into it. It is located on the front bottom left. It is a red device that sits on top of a opaque plastic cylinder. It is know to overheat and produce very loud buzzing noise when fresh water pump is engaged. I hope this helps. You are right, there are no other water level sensors on most of this similar model Kitchenaid Included.
Did your fix work? If so can you provide more detail as to part and location?
What's a STUDDDDD
Forgot to say you put stud forward of your mark
Awesome...u explained it so clear and showed us....thank u kindly....
Did you happen to understand why he made that first measurement at 15.25" instead of 16?
@@51MontyPython to get 16 o.c. But only wourks if it’s not a return wall and the length is divisible by 16. I was taught to do a “take off” which can vary if load bearing to account for joist. But if you mark 16 and x back or away you’re fine. Built many houses and never subtracted 3/4 each way. And if you mark and don’t subtract 3/4 pple would still have no trouble finding the studs anyway. And still fall 16 o.c.
@@GeorgieCtThat part is confusing. Why can't you just draw one line on 16 and center your studs on it? Why do all these framers teach marking 15 1/4 and then 16 3/4, doesn't the stud still land on 16 centered. Seems like a lot of extra marking.
this is the best video in all youtube on this topic, i have been looking for why, it's 16 inch and you just explained that and kept it simple all the way, i don't usually comment on videos but i needed to thank you for this!
Alabama?????? Thanks for the info! Greetings from Chile
kinda slow to nail
great, vid, thank you.
Nice and simple - easy to understand layout.
Did you understand at all why he said to make the 2nd stud 15.25" from the 1st, or was your understanding of it that he needed to make that first measurement that length _in order_ for them to actually be _16"_ apart?
@@51MontyPython I'm a metric user, but I try to explain it as good as I can, so here it goes: you want to subtract half the width of your stud material from your measurment. If that makes him land on 15.25", then it is so. It is necessary to do so, because other wise, provided your tape is hooked on the end of the board and you marked 16", the stud would sit to the side of 16", thus making it NOT on center. But if you subtract half the width, the stud, if it's on the right side, sits with its center perfectly on 16". Of course you could mark 16", and then align the center of the stud on the mark by eye, but it's more convenient to subtract half the width. Hope that helped.
#1 video. that accent tho
I totally agree. That great system called KISS Keep It Simple Stupid Awesome to see someone keep it that way.TY Next video will be added that all crowns face up for the drywalled wall to look uniform and also for the cabinets to be easier to install .
I like that you kept this video simple, no extra fluff that wasn't necessary. Thank you, finally a good video on this topic that is quick and easy to understand.