Відео

@@mikito5782 a lot 😆.. 124 takegawa 2v.. ported head.. welded crank.. vortex ignition.. a few other goodies.. it's the basic traditional tak race version. The #20 cam , chp Ultima exhaust, vm26 carb, and custom tune, with manual hand clutch wrap it up.

@@johnbruzzi4381 I believe the auto clutch needs to come off to remove the pressure plate from the primary/ direct drive clutch. You'll need a double sized 4 point socket to remove the lock nuts on each clutch, both nuts are different sizes. , if your main clutch is slipping, be sure to inspect the basket hub and pressure plate for any wear grooves from discs, if grooves are too deep, the new clutches may also slip.

@kwikfixer I didn't think it's slipping , I just got the quad and I pretty sure the clutch was never touched. It runs great my son's been ring all over with it. Just want to put me fibers and plates and springs in. The basket looks perfect. It was a 1 owner quad. 2013 .

Thank you for your help!!! Happy New Year 🎊

@@johnbruzzi4381 absolutely

@kwikfixer my overflow keeps leaking, did rebuild, and change the needle and still no luck. Any advice, doesn't make sense

@@johnbruzzi4381 it can often be the float needle SEAT .. it can get a tiny bit of trash or corrosion on it.. it can be cleaned by using a q tip first.. and visually inspect it.. It can also be cleaned more aggressively with the correct size drill bit, by gently rotating the bit with fingers , to clean away any debris or corrosion from the tapered face of the brass seat. You don't want to remove material from the seat, you're only gently cleaning it's mating face surface. Be sure to check the float for a leak before doing anything

@@kwikfixer the things is the needle seat isn't brass, it's just aluminum. It's a 2013 trx90. I went to the store and got a cleaning thing for a gun it was the same size, cleaned it with brass wire and then a cotton thing, I think it worked but I don't know why the seat isn't brass. What does the seat look like in your trx90 carb. Thank you for your help.

@johnbruzzi4381 I couldn't say on stock carb.. but on a lot of newer small carbs it's very likely it's aluminum or stainless. If it keeps acting up, you can possibly buy a new OEM carb , pretty reasonable off Partzilla, com

@@Russell_838 been a while.. I believe that setup used the richest OEM needle for a kx65... 17pilot, 175+/- main jet. For a 124 hot build , it would be closer to the standard needle.. 20-22.5 p... 180-195 m

@@BrettFisher-y3d takes a minute.. A good idea is to buy a retired national legal quad.. and just be educated on chassis n motor parts that make these things perform the way they do .. and also the limitations vs other options vs cost.

@@janielcasiano im sorry.. I don't have that design pattern available any longer

@@Ponchito47 the list goes on .. every change requires several other accommodating changes to equal a good reliable power addition. I will try to make a video of the different stages of adding power , according to budget.. as this is the number one question in any power sport . If you're on Facebook.. join my group.. mini4stroke ATV ... It's not been very active lately, but plenty of good info in older posts.. plenty of knowledge in the members. A lot of the crf50/70 pages are more active and have great info about adding power and additional things to expect

What?? Absolutely is a trx90 .. modded for legal National racing

@@kwikfixer you mean EXTREME modded, beautiful

I sold around 250+ kits .. I've since discontinued them, I did make a new design.. bit I haven't produced it for sell .. no idea if I will , just yet

@kwikfixer if you don't sell them would you share the idea or the blue prints so i can make one for my kids. Ideally it would be nice to buy it allready made but...

For the children 😂

First off.. LOVE THE username 👌.. I believe that's a custom shifter I was making for a short time. I would cut the end , turn it up higher , to accommodate riding boots, and reweld it. The simplest way to make up shifts easier, is to cut the shifter's internal clutch actuator , so as not to be engaging the primary clutch with the shifter during upshift events. I believe I posted a video in the same basic time era, that describes its reasoning and shows how it works.

I Stopped making these years ago

@@kwikfixer be pretty cool if you came back. You were the only person making detailed mod videos

@@KAOSshortyrip maybe I'll get back to it one of these days.. I really appreciate all the support from everyone over the years .. I hope I've inspired a few people in return.

I don't

It was a custom setup I was building and selling for a few years, has since been discontinued

Yes.. totally custom pipe

This was a first gen kit.. the roller rockers and Valve guides were the weakest of points.. it failed repeatedly.. I ended up getting custom valves,seats,guides , and used takegawa rockers.. the TB cylinder has super thin walled sleeve, so the cyl was upgraded with takegawa cylinder.. I don't recommend these kits out of the box , not for full racing use.. But after some bugs were eliminated, it's still going strong today on a mini bike in SoCal. With the appropriate maintenance of course.

@kwikfixer this v2 looks like the same kit from 10 years ago or the same name. Anyway I could chat with you on the phone?

Shoot me a phone number ... kwikfixer@gmail.com ..I'll text you to call ASAP

I have not considered selling.. Email me to get telephone contact info if you want to discuss. kwikfixer@gmail.com

Nice to meet you

@@DJPOPHENNESSY absolutely love meeting new people with same interest.. you have very nice looking bike on your channel 👌

It was a build for a friend's son .. it was further updated and tuned, and since been sold

One is a raptor125... Crf150r motor. Other is an early ,first gen hybrid super mini frame , 250r front frame /blaster rear frame... with a mark Baldwin cr80/90 stroker motor

cr150r motor in the raptor 125 frame is there alot of vibration? I heard putting in a motor bike motor in an atv will cause alot of vibration do to not having counter weights on the crank set up for an atv frame. No clue how much truth there is to that.

No.. that applies more on a 2 stroke .. it's a really smooth install with the right kit.. and exhaust.. And it's absolutely rips once it's right

Your shifter/clutch actuator may not be set loose enough. The adjustment is the nut n stud sticking out of the clutch cover. 1/8-1/4 turn from seated is the sweet spot , to actuate the clutch ,so the trans and motor equalize as quick as possible at shift points . Turn the locking nut Left/ counter clockwise..to unlock it.. Using a flat head screwdriver, turn the stud counter clockwise ,as if screwing it out.. until it gets tight,,,. It'll be seated to the clutch throw out bearing .. Then turn opposite, clockwise/ right.. 1/8-1/4 turn... To get the best area of clutching when shifting. This adjustment is the same as adjusting a hand clutch.. the hand clutch action ,is actually being done through the foot shifter

It absolutely was 😆... +15% tension springs were added afterwards , just a little stiffer to shift with the harder springs

I don't remember the exact bore Is 52mm ish .it was a 49.5, trx 90cc crank. So 107-108.. either way . The heads were discontinued years ago.. I picked this complete motor up ,years ago , which was a project that sat in shelf for years before. To my knowledge the service parts are no longer available. I actually still have the topend. It's had one rocker repaired after a finger broke off..but ran great when it was retired. I can possibly dig it up and measure the bore ..but I'm out of the area at the moment.

I would not go that far.. but I try to be helpful when I have the opportunity.. Thanks 👍👍👍

I modified the clutch actuator, so the shifter was only shifting the transmission, and not working the clutch... Which ,when the rider can't shift gears, because the clutch springs are too strong.. due to a more powerful motor needs stronger clutch springs... This mod will help the rider to still be able to shift

I wouldn't sell the frame alone .. Look up Corey McDonah on FB ..he may have something. i have more invested in the bike than I believe my return could be without the frame itself. I would consider selling the entire bike..but it would be priced at individual parts combined price.. it has a lot of higher end parts that can't be easily found now..has very low hours and no abusive riding at all. If you can't find Corey..lmk..I'll forward his info.

I haven't intended on it..but all of my bikes are for sale for the right price. If you are a serious inquiry, I can offer my personal contact info..just let me know

It's not too hard. All the trx models are basically the same in that regard. The kits that use actual 300 arms ,are very heavy and don't handle that well. The better option is to use aftermarket long travel kits ,made specific for the trx90.

Thanks... definitely a fun way to get some stress relief 👍

I don't make them anymore.. the last one I did make , I charged $500. I wouldn't do it for that anymore.. Lotta work and parts involved

I wouldn't by anything till the clutch cover is off and inspected. Like it's something to do with the return spring on the shifter shaft ..located behind the primary clutch, it wraps around the shifter shaft. That's not the only possibility ..but it would be my first guess . You'll drain oil .. tilt quad up on a jackstand..and Remove the 8 mm bolts. Be prepared to have to scrape and replace the paper gasket on cover, it usually tares .. you absolutely have to have it on there to keep correct clearance of clutch cover to the moving internal parts. Feel free to get with me on parts you suspect after inspection..I keep most on hand ,and can priority mail them if you use PayPal.

@@kwikfixer amazingly fast and specific response definitely subbing thank you for your suggestions just wanted a little insight me and my buddy once pulled a Hayabusa engine and installed a entire gear set in it worked out great doesn't hurt to ask you seem to know your stuff when it comes to these little atvs ! Never had a problem with it till recently had it new since 2006 can't complain things a champ

Light crank...light flywheel..no auto clutch (3Lbs less rotating) ..4 valve ported head.. high compression piston, advanced ignition system.. it all adds up to about 18 HP...and 14000+ rpm .... At a cost of around $4-5k in the motor and sub assemblies in total.. Some engines I've built later on , actually make this one look weak ,by comparison

Bug gun Evo header.. china silencer

If referring to the neutral ground switch.. ground it to anywhere on motor, a bolt ,etc..or simply run a jumper from the bolt that holds the ignition coil to frame. Or the solid green wires for kill switch ground. There's a group of solid green ground wires , and one for each of the 2 kill switch wires.

@@kwikfixer I think I’ll just do that…. Make a jumper from engine bolt to coil.. I’ll double check my kill switch wire placement as well … I’m getting spark but engine isn’t firing.. seems like a wiring issue to me

@@moneymikae1233 I would ground the neutral switch wire , that comes from motor to cdi.. Ground green wire that goes to coil. Possibly unplug the 2 kill wires ( black white stripe,and the ground is the accompanying green wire to each. If no luck , you'll need an ohm meter to check pickup coil that reads flywheel , and the primary coil/stator , behind flywheel. All tests can be done through the engine harness plug , with it unplugged from cdi harness

The pickup and stator are the most general causes , when wiring is correct otherwise