- 40
- 107 181
Carlex DIY
United States
Приєднався 13 бер 2007
Hello!
I have always enjoyed learning and doing my own projects. Putting out these videos will hopefully help someone with their projects. That's why I decided to make these videos straight to the point and with as much detail as possible, without making them too complicated.
This UA-cam channel is, in and of itself, a learning project for me.
I have always enjoyed learning and doing my own projects. Putting out these videos will hopefully help someone with their projects. That's why I decided to make these videos straight to the point and with as much detail as possible, without making them too complicated.
This UA-cam channel is, in and of itself, a learning project for me.
Bambu Lab's P1S Power Usage - Watts
Testing the electrical power usage of my Bambu Lab P1S using the P3 International P4460 Kill A Watt EZ Electricity Usage Monitor.
Переглядів: 369
Відео
Creality K2 Plus Electrical Power Usage in Watts
Переглядів 63712 годин тому
Testing the electrical power usage of my Creality K2 Plus using the P3 International P4460 Kill A Watt EZ Electricity Usage Monitor.
Tapo C110 Camera Infrared Light Disable - No more glare on door glass
Переглядів 3821 годину тому
I show three ways to easily disable the infrared lights on the Tapo C110 camera. Two can be reversible and one is permanent. I use these cameras against the glass door on my Bambu Lab P1S and Creality K2 Plus.
Creality K2 Plus System Errors CM2798 & XS2001
Переглядів 1,1 тис.14 днів тому
On start up, I received two system error codes on screen that would not only prevent me from completing setup but it would also shut down the machine. I took it apart and found the servo issues. Errors: CM2798 X step-servo connect issue, please turn off the power and restart. & XS2001 System error, try restarting Link to Creality K2 Error codes wiki: wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-p...
K2 Plus Combo box measurements and weight
Переглядів 24021 день тому
K2 Plus Combo Box Measurements 23" x 23.75" x 27.25" 584 mm x 603 mm x 692 mm Weight 118.2 LBS 53.61 KG
K2 Plus Broken Foot screw extraction repair
Переглядів 82828 днів тому
Received the K2 Plus combo, and it had a broken foot. I decided to fix it myself. Extracted the broken screw oart and replaced it with a different one. I do recommend getting replacement from Creality directly. But since I mentioned and used the kit. Link for the multi screw kit i mentioned in vídeo. a.co/d/2RZCtnr I did not use the Screw Extractor kit because I did not have it at the time. I a...
Alcohol VS White Vinegar - Testing Cleaners on 3D Effects plate
Переглядів 380Місяць тому
Testing Tap Water, Isopropyl Alcohol 70%, Isopropyl Alcohol 99%, and White Vinegar on my "Smooth 3D Effects Plate" to see if there was a difference as far as sticking or marking. Spoiler: Water and vinegar both left what seems to be water residue marks that show on prints. I'll continue to use Alcohol only.
Testing different cleaners on Textured plate of 3D printer
Переглядів 332Місяць тому
Just for the hell of it. I decided to test Tap Water, Isopropyl Alcohol 70%, Isopropyl Alcohol 99%, and White Vinegar on my "Textured plate" to see if there was a difference as far as sticking or staining. Spoiler: No Difference! I still recommend Alcohol.
How to replace the Bambu Lab's A1 Heatbed Sensor Unit due to error code.
Переглядів 4684 місяці тому
Showing steps I took to replace the Heatbed Sensor Unit on my Bambu Lab A1 after receiving error code. The signal of the heatbed acceleration sensor is weak. The sensor may have fallen off or been damaged. [0300-1b00-0001-0001] [110702] Support sent me part #: Heatbed Sensor Unit Model: FAC046 Along with chinese instructions on how to replace part. (They don't have it in english) wiki.bambulab....
NEW Elegoo Plastic Spool - You NEED this adapter for your AMS Lite.
Переглядів 6234 місяці тому
Elegoo started using plastic spools for their filament like other companies. The new spool works great with the Regular AMS but has a wider hole, which will not work with the AMS lite system. Using a spool adapter will resolve the AMS lite fitment issue. Adapter I show and use: makerworld.com/en/models/576271
Eibos Polyphemus Roller Upgrade Hack
Переглядів 2644 місяці тому
I really like the Eibos Polyphemus Filament Dryer. But I found an issue with its rotisserie mode. It would sometimes just stop rotating the spools even though the rollers were spinning. I found that by adding heat shrink wrap to rollers it fixed my issue. Sharing the steps if anyone else has the same issue. Markers: 00:00 Intro 01:06 Supplies needed 03:00 Roller Disassembly 04:21 Heat Shrink Wr...
Amazon 3D Effects Build Plate Prints Grid PES, Lattice PES, and Light Beam H1H
Переглядів 7904 місяці тому
Printing on the different 3D effects plates purchased from Amazon Plates= Grid PES, Lattice PES, and Light Beam H1H I always do a first time wash with dish soap and hot water prior to first use. After that initial wash, I just wipe the plates using alcohol 90% or higher before and between prints. 3D Printer: Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite Filaments used: Cyan PLA Basic from Bambu Lab Magenta PLA Ba...
Bambu Lab's AMS vs AMS Lite comparison
Переглядів 2,8 тис.4 місяці тому
Cursory overview of the AMS and AMS Lite from Bambu Labs.
Bambu Lab's P1S - LED Light Strip and Riser setup
Переглядів 2,6 тис.5 місяців тому
Bambu Lab's P1S - LED Light Strip and Riser setup
Bambu Lab's 3D effects print and finish outcome.
Переглядів 7 тис.5 місяців тому
Bambu Lab's 3D effects print and finish outcome.
How to switch Elegoo Cardboard Spool to Bambu Lab's reusable spool.
Переглядів 53 тис.5 місяців тому
How to switch Elegoo Cardboard Spool to Bambu Lab's reusable spool.
How to apply the Bambu Lab's 3D Effect Sheets to plate
Переглядів 3,4 тис.6 місяців тому
How to apply the Bambu Lab's 3D Effect Sheets to plate
3D scanner not activating / turning on. Check this setting. 3DMakerPro Moose
Переглядів 5526 місяців тому
3D scanner not activating / turning on. Check this setting. 3DMakerPro Moose
Assembling the Eibos Polyphemus Filament Dryer
Переглядів 3077 місяців тому
Assembling the Eibos Polyphemus Filament Dryer
Eibos Polyphemus Unboxing Filament Dryer
Переглядів 1057 місяців тому
Eibos Polyphemus Unboxing Filament Dryer
Redcat Ascent Fusion Differential Cover weights.
Переглядів 9088 місяців тому
Redcat Ascent Fusion Differential Cover weights.
Redcat Gen9 Transmission and Transfer Case Teardown
Переглядів 5949 місяців тому
Redcat Gen9 Transmission and Transfer Case Teardown
Redcat Ascent Portal Axle Gear Greasing
Переглядів 1379 місяців тому
Redcat Ascent Portal Axle Gear Greasing
Grease Syringe for RCs - Using Red N Tacky
Переглядів 2969 місяців тому
Grease Syringe for RCs - Using Red N Tacky
I have a 300x300mm bed on one of my printers and a 200x200mm on another that's a bed slinger. Both had enclosures. I wasn't too surprised when I did similar tests a few years ago that the bed slinger was using slightly more power on average. Despite the larger printer also having bigger fans and PSU. Would be cool to see a test comparing your A1's power consumption
What if the print area is covering the entire build plate then it should increase the power consumption but by how much? could you please run a layer adhesion test print and check the power comsumption for a thin layer covering the entire build plate. Thank you for the test.
Regarding the power consumption I imagine it won't change much since the printer heats up the whole bed and keeps it all hot at the same temp. What I do think will raise the power is printing with some strong materials like ASA or abs. Since those use higher temps. I just don't have any now to test that hypothesis. But I will test it when I do a thin first layer test in PLA.
You don't need a UPS, it has print recovery after a blackout. You can only use it if there are many voltage fluctuations in your power line but this is a rare event. It happened to me twice in 6 months
I am going to disagree, I had a power failure in the middle of the night in the middle of a 24 hour print. I tried resuming but it popped the prints off the bed when it tried resuming. I'm assuming the PLA had cooled too much and had come loose from the bed.
@deepfakefuorissimo Have you actually used the print recovery for the K2+? I can tell you that it has NOT work for me. Twice I've had little spikes, and the print recovery once didn't even start, and the other it did a horrible layer shift that it completing I lost the print. Besides that, the reason I use and mention in video is because in my area, we do get a few power outages, and the UPS helps to not only save the print but from damaging the printer.
@higginsjoshua agree , the only thing I would add is the 1500va UPS i don't think is strong enough to keep it going for long. Im guessing maybe less than 5-10 mins if it's already printing and not using a lot of power. Hmmm this might be something I test later
So the p1s has the usb connection stock?
Yes, it does. It has a sticker over it but it's there.
before even watching this. I bet connectors are loose or something is loose.
Yup, figured. Great video and thorough showing what was disconnected. I hope more see this and it helps users. Mine I have the ca2710 which meand the belt tension too tight. I had to adjust.
You were right, loose plugs. They should I use glue on more plugs. How hard was it to adjust the tension?
Just received my K2 this evening and sent in a request for a new foot and interior side panel due to a scratch. How long did it take to get your new foot? (I can care less when the panel gets here just wanna start printing!)
It depends on how you contacted them. From when I actually spoke to a rep, it took about 6 days from CA to GA. I suggest you try reaching them thru Facebook or WhatsApp. If you do email, it will be weeks before they reply or acknowledge you.
I see the camera window in the software, but the image is completly black.
Is the camera it's self showing any lights flickering when you try to scan?
Dig it. Been looking for a LED alternative to the Bambu Lab lights. I noticed - is that a camera attached to your door? If so, mind sharing your camera set up? Looks clean and especially the wire seems nicely hidden.
got one spool of each color from bambu so i can refill from other brands and get the RFID!
Love that riser.. just what i've been looking for.. thank you for the links and sharing your leds. I wasnt sure which kind to get. Thank you!
Is the bolt really not a metric? I tried to size it using a #4 from Lowe's and it was jamming after the first 1/4 inch. I haven't gotten desperate enough to force it an wreck the threads, but that may come before the Creality Customer Support folks respond. (Though maybe it was the Lock-Tite, but still...
It is metric. I use a 3 mm allen key. I just checked the new screw I received from Creality
@@CarlexDIY Cool. Did the Creality bag happen to have the nomenclature for the screw? (So I can order the same thing.) Thanks!
@@randino892 Not specifically. It did have some numbers written on it, but I'm guessingits more like their model number. You can check out my short vid on it if that helps. I threw the baggies out. The replacement screw they sent is longer than the broken one. I'd say it is an M4 x 20mm length screw.
I think it’s an M4-8, but I used a -12 from a set of socket head screws I bought for another project and promptly forgot about. Anyway, once I drilled out and removed the broken screws I got it back together, finished the setup and have been printing successfully ever since. Creality support finally came back and wanted pictures of the damage. I told them it was WAY too late for that.
Appricate showing error code fixes. A lot of people are going to get into this printer and it might be one of the first ones that actually throws an error code for them. We need new people to get comfortable with maintenance and shipping causing cables to come loose.
Where did you get the part?
I reached out to BL support. Had ito fill out their form and send them photos of the screen error. The form also asks for system logs of machine. They then sent me the part.
Thank you!
Thank you. Mine had the same problem
Were yours snapped off even with the bottom of the case? I found two (the back two) snapped off when I unboxed. Looked like one of the two was actually *outside* the plastic bag the the case is wrapped in,
@@randino892yep and mine was outside the bag as well. I heard it hit the floor. Didn't realize what is was until I went to set my printer on the workbench.
Good Job 😊👍
Fedex said it is 122.5
Getting a 3d printer for christmas, Very dumb on the topic right now and looking into filaments. If im not using multiple colours and just one single roll of elegoo filament would i need to change it from cardboard?
Hey SoonyVR, Welcome to the expensive /great world of 3D printing. It really depends on the type of printer you are getting. If it has an AMS or AMS lite for multi color then it would benefit you to switch it over. Since you said you will only be using single roll. I imagine it will be on a regular spool holder, So then it wouldn't matter and the cardboard should work fine as long as it's not crushed and fits in the holder.
This worked great for me. Had this sprayer new in box in my garage for almost 2 years before my first use, used it once and threw it right in the trash. Decided to look up some solutions, found your video and it worked perfectly. Thank you!
Good. Happy it worked for you.
I was wondering! Excellent! I wonder what other brands you can do this with… esun?
I've done it with Elegoo, Polymaker, and Overture carboard spools without a problem. I haven't used Esun yet, so can't say.
@ thanks! Some more I can add to my list
lower initial speed, increase initial layer height, change studio setting to smooth pei/high temp plate, decrease temp on plate (or increase maybe...) increase inital and wall line width, turn off fan, turn off dynamic flow calibration, again lower speed and as always dry your filament, and the usual soap and then achohol and do not touch at all....also try your xy setting in the nozzle under machine start g-code -0.01 > -0.04...if already on smooth plate try textured as a last ditch effort. good luck
Good job. Thank you.
Why not use a rubber underground in stead of a slippery cardboard box?
Yeah, i could have just placed the plates on my blue mat but its a little curved so decided to just use the cardboard under it. I guess it could have made it easier.
do they ever wear out? Preston Griffin
I'm going to say yes, they wear out but I've been using mine for a few months, and so far stil working. They are somewhat easy to scratch, so use plastic scrapper to remove parts if needed. A metal scrapper will destroy it.
Sorry, but this just isn't a good cleaning method and you need to understand why. You are wiping on ISO, dissolving contaminants and oils, then letting it dry in place.. the contaminants don't evaporate, all left on top surface instead.. I spray my 90-99% ISO with a tiny spray bottle that makes a good mist and coverage, mostly in-center of course where prints will occur, then wipe it around and flip towel, you want to absorb as much of it back up as you can loaded with oils etc inside it, don't let large pools of it dry.
I actually do use the method you described. I have a spray bottle with 99% IPA and spray the plate then wipe it off. For the test I just decided to use the actual product bottles in the video since i'm sure some viewers would say that I was lying about what i have in the spray bottle.
@@CarlexDIY Ah fair enough then, so long as you know why the other way around might very well make it worse depending on the order of operations.
You admitted not letting water / vinegar not dry long enough.! Whole test complete bust.
No, I gave it the same amount of time as alcohol. You know the printer still has to heat up the bed and do all the calibration, which takes about 6+ mins before it even starts printing. It dried and left the residue.
Do your own test then, lol
I clean my plate after 5 prints with soapy water never had any problems
wash with hot soapy water then clean with IPA each print while bed is cold until issues with bed adhesion then repeat
Didnt work for what I needed. I had a bunch of small rolls that cant be used in ams, and was hoping this would work.. Guess I gotta just re-roll them.. Still cool if I need to switch bigger rolls over. thanks
Have you looked into the sunlu filament Connector. It might help make just one big roll when you decide to reroll them.
@@CarlexDIY Thats so funny, I just got done watching a video from Joel about that. Ordered it 2 minuets ago.
omg, just got my ams today and started printing all these "rings" to go over my cardboard spools, and you just saved me alot of time and potential dust gettin in my new ams, thank you for this vid!
Literally re inventing the wheel.
Yes, but a stronger more durable wheel. 😆
this worked perfectly thanks so much! saved me having to wait 2 hours to print the bambu method, do you have any adhesion problems with these plates? if so do you have any tips? thanks again :)
Glad it helped. I am surprised that i haven't had much issues at all. On my A1 using the standard profile no issues at all. On my P1S i do have to raise the bed temp to 65 instead of the standard 55. Since i've had a few not stick on the Star plate. Besides that no issues at all.
Thank you for doing this video. It helped me get the lights installed behind the dash.
I have not even received my Bambu printer yet and am extremely impressed with the quality of their reusable spools. And I found your video really informative!
Great to hear!
Thanks for the video ! where did you find the dry pods with the non circular hydrometer placeholder ?
Thank you. Found it on on MakerWorld. Rectangular placeholder: makerworld.com/en/models/429604#profileId-336928 The sides: makerworld.com/en/models/158496?designId=158496#profileId-173988
@@CarlexDIY thank you 👍🏼
Thank you! Now I don't have to worry about buying only plastic spools and / or buy spools that are the right size for my AMS.
carboard is like a sponge and can retain a lot of moisture. Plastic spools are great.
I write the weight of the spools on the sticker before putting them in for the first time. Makes it easy to know how much has been used and so roughly how much is left.
So they actually weigh around 2.2lbs? Hmmm i never thought of doing that. Thats a great idea.
@@CarlexDIY They weigh around 1.2kg, including the spool, but you can assume there's about 1kg of filament at the start, which tells you how much is left (well enough).
I see your reasoning and well done sharing your information. I never have dust issues, as.. 1- most cardboard spools have a sealed edge that eliminates dust. 2- for the cardboard spools that do not have a sealed edge, I just put one pass of electrical tape around the edge. Doing the above, saves time and accidental filament uncoiling. But hey, I’m not here to knock your ways, as if it works for you and others, jobs a goodun 👍🏻
I've never had dust issues with carboard spools, but I have had them overload the AMS's motors from too much friction.
I'm new to 3D printing. Can you explain the benefit of changing out the spools? Thanks!
Hey there, welcome to the expensive and fun world of 3D printing. Regarding the Spools, it really depends on what printer you have and your uses. For me since i use my spools with the AMS and AMS lite from bambu. The cardboard spools sometimes cause issues with the AMS if the cardboard is bent or misaligned, or after so much use, it will start wearing out inside the AMS and that would need more cleaning of the system. In the AMS lite, I have had carboard spools start to deform in the center. Since those are pushed into the spool holder, after a few times, they get loose and fall out. For those reasons I just find it easier to switch to the plastic spool. If done right, you shouldn't have much of any issues.
@@CarlexDIY thanks for the info!
Is there a problem with some of the left over cardboard (which I noticed was still in the centre of spool) getting dragged into the feed mechanism and jamming it all up. Or do you just not use the last few turns of the spool? Thanks, interesting and well explained.
No issues at all, I use my rolls completely and the center cardboard pieces gets tosed in recycle bin. Funny thing, recently i've actually had issues with the original Bambu Lab spools themselves. Since some of them are taping the filament to the center cardboard. causing it to either get stuck or sucked into the feeding tube. But no issues from elegoo spools that i've flipped to plastic.
@CarlexDIY I am having the same issue with the tape on Bambu lab filament...it's getting old. I reached out to Bambu and they said there was a batch that was taped wrong but I think they are just using tape that is too strong and they are taping down too much of the end. Just ordered some elegoo rapid PETG...if that prints well I will be done with Bambu lab filament.
Every time I have tried this I end up having to wind it onto a different spool because it always jams at some point while using the transferred spool.
Really? Elegoo cardboard spools? Are you using new spools or already started spools? Are you noticing gaps on the side between the spool and filament?
@@CarlexDIY I've had this issue with several brands of cardboard spools. And I'm expecting it to be something I've done to create tangles. I just don't know what that happens to be. Since I had already printed a respoler, I just use that for my X1-C and leave them on the cardboard for my A1. The A1 becoming the default printer for cardboard spools for the most part. It's nice to have that option of one or the other, both with the matching AMS.
I have no issues. Run elegoo on cardboard. On my a1 all the time
Thats good. Yeah, the issues mostly happen with the enclosed AMS for the X1 or P1. But even on my A1, after changing the spools on and off so many times, they get loose.
Im new to 3d printing, so why is it recommended to leave the door open since I've never heard of it until now.
That is mostly said with PLA filaments. Since they melt at lower temps, when you keep door and top closed, the chamber gets so hot that it can start affecting how the filament melts and or the finish of the print. I honestly never noticed any issues before i did the modification but that's probably because my printer is in my cold basement.
LOL, so you spent close to $1,000 for a Bambu Lab 3d printer w/AMS unit..... And then you cheap out by not buying Bambu Lab filament, just to save a few dollars? SMH.
You don't have to buy Bambu filament and pay the extra, if you don't want to. I mainly use Overture filament with mine. If you want to class it as "cheap out" then I'm ok with that.
Yup, i'm economical. I go with what works best for me in regards to colors and quality of prints and if i save a few bucks , that's even better for me.
Other manufacturers often offer colors that Bambu does not have. So it isnt necessarily being cheap. I buy several brands an X1C. I can attest at cardboard spools being shitty with AMS.
Not to mention Bambu is taping down the filament now and it is causing issues that could and will probably break the AMS at some point.
Bambu doesn't make their own filament, they just buy from other companies. There is tape at the end of the current spools that destroys the AMS so it makes a lot more sense to buy filament OTHER than Bambu.
What works for me is to just rip the cardboard off and take the filament with it's cardboard core and slap it on the bambu spool. You have to be careful not to disturb the windingd though. So rewinding to a new spool is so best i recon
I actually had to do this because the cardboard spool broke as I was taking it off of my AMS lite aswell :P
Yup, that's what made me look into switching the spools to plastic. I change colors so often that cardboard spools don't last.
@@CarlexDIY Yes 🙌
Do you know the amperage on the LED strip? The usb port is only supposed to be 0.3 amps
On my P1S usb port, there is a sticker that says output 5v- 1.5a. Now, there isn't any information on this LED about how much amperage it uses, but I would say probably between 1.3 and 1.8a since it only has a few LED diodes but can't confirm actual numbers.
@@CarlexDIY no issues so far though? I got a set of the AliExpress ones coming in that replace the oem light bar. Supposedly rated at .3 amps. If those suck I may just do an external under my AMS
@@mega5moose It's been working great. A few times, I'll leave it on for a few days and no issues. I can say that is one of my favorite mods I've done to it.
ESun cardboard spools as well
No modification needed for Esun? Good to know. I just ordered some esun filament, so guess ill be testing it out.
Cardboard has no effect on your AMS. I’ve been using it for many many months and I’ve had no problems!
Cardboard has no effect on YOUR ams.
Good. You've gotten lucky. I can't say the same thing. Sometimes new out of bag and the carboard spools are crushed or bent.
@@CarlexDIYthis. I bought two anycubic spools a couple of weeks ago because they were on sale. The spools were so bent that even an adapter couldn’t help straighten out the spool. Ended up binding in my AMS. Learned my lesson to just by elegoo spools going forward.
I think it may be for cardboard spools that are not perfectly smooth on the edge and have bumps on the edges. Simply get a razor and smooth them out so the roller doesn’t trip up on them.
The amount of dust they make isn’t worth it. Rings are way easier.